Hello. The cold water lines all tie together. If there are some faucets not getting pressure at all, most likely the faucet itself is the issue. If there is no water pressure coming in, the inlet valve could be bad and needs to be replaced. It is possible a previous owner installed shut off valves or did something else with the plumbing but if there is water pressure coming in the main inlet and some fixtures have pressure, then all fixtures should be getting the same pressure. If the cold water works fine everywhere but you aren’t getting hot at any fixtures, there could be an issue with the hot water tank or the bypass valves to the tank. Most RV’s are equipped with bypass valves, this allows you to bypass the hot water tank when winterizing the RV. If these valves are still in winterize mode, it will send cold water to the hot side of the fixtures. I would first check the orientation of these valves and make sure they are setup for summer use. You might have to check the owners manual to see how the water system needs to be setup, every RV is different. If the valves are correct and still no hot water, then you would have to troubleshoot the hot water tank components. I would first start by checking the fuse for 12v and then the breaker if you are trying to use the electric operation. Here are some videos that could help as well: https://www.rvrepairclub.com/?s=water+heater
Thanks
Dan
RV Lifestyle and Repair
Hi..Trying to find out if anyone has installed 4 aftermarket hydralic levelers on a 2022 24.8′ Leisure travel van “Wonder” class B+ ? The factory doesn’t
Here’s what the experts had to say about your question:
The only place you should see any moisture in the fridge is on the fins in the top rear. If you are seeing condensation build up around the edges of the fridge on the walls most likely the seals on the door are bad. We do have a video showing how to check this, I will share the link below. https://www.rvrepairclub.com/video/rv-refrigerator-troubleshooting-checking-fridge-seals-007876/
Are There any common faults to look out for on this model, its our 1st RV and after looking on the internet blogs it seemed a good rig to start with. Many thanks John
We would love to answer this expert question for you but I would need the year, make, and model of the RV your referring to.
Once we receive the information, we can pass it along to the experts.
I have a question on my new(to me) 1995 Foretravel.
I say your video on the excess flow valve for a propane tank and wonder if this is my problem. When I purchased the RV it had 1/2 tank of propane and the roof AC’s worked fine until I filled the tank. After that, I would turn on the Genny then the AC’s (both) and within about 10 min the genny would stop and not immediately restart.
I stopped at an Onan shop at the end of their day and they tried it. Same deal, Genny ran fine until load put on it then after a few min it shut down. I was heading home so I did not stay overnight for them to TS it. They suggested that it could be the liquid propane line freezing as it seems to be the line that feeds the generator.
Tank is now at about 1/2 and when I tried it yesterday with only 1 AC, it still shut down the genny after a few min. Was going to try it with 1 AC on low but thought I would ask you as I am now a gold member.
Thanks
Joe Buford
Hi Joseph. The best way to find out for sure is to test the gas system on other things while running the generator. I would start with the stove top burners. Get the flames to light and then run the generator. If the flames go out or drop down drastically then there is an issue with gas flow. It could be either the main regulator, gas line flow valve, or a blockage in the line. Typically the generator running alone means the gas is good. If the generator bogs down when a load is on it this usually means there is an issue with the generator itself. Usually it is from carburetor clogs or something with the intake system. I would check to make sure the filters are clear and get the carburetor cleaned to see if this helps.
Dan
RV Repair Club
I know not how.to.get it cool , get it leveled out, hot water, water pressure, empty tank, and to secure the doors and windows. The ignition is a screwdriver also.
Hello Raymond,
Here’s what the experts had to say about your question:
If you have white markings over a painted area this is usually from the clear coat fading. When it gets to this point it is best to try a rubbing compound and buffing wheel to smooth it back out and restore the coating. It could also be mineral deposits from water and the rubbing compound could help with this as well. These compounds and buffing wheels are usually supplied at auto parts stores.
We are the original owners of our 2000 Harney Renegade 37′ Class A. The RVA levelers controller has lost its mind. On the last two trips, the Bong Alarm would not shut off when jacks were retracted. The right rear jack was replaced a few years ago after a mishap slightly bent the original one (I forgot they were down and tried to drive away).
My husband topped off reservoir according to directions in “RVA Fluid Level Service” bulletin, and it still Bonged. CA to Oregon and back in December and CA to AZ in January and back home in Feb. Not able to get into RV repair shop in Yuma until April (appointment made and planning to be there if we can’t fix this).
In AZ, it started not responding to the switches. Pump runs, but jacks move very slowly and/or don’t respond to corresponding switch. If I start with the front jack, then switch to another jack, the front will continue to deploy. Even if I try to retract it, it will continue to deploy. The All Retract position doesn’t work consistently and may in fact continue raising the last jack deployed. Fluid level seems good.
In trying to track the path of the system’s hoses and wires, I noticed a substantial amount of hydraulic fluid has leaked from the slide’s ram onto the attached storage bays below (only has one slide). Are they sharing a system like the 5th Wheel Video in your file demonstrates? It wouldn’t explain the controller being erratic but might explain the Bong Alarm.
I’ll clean off the hydraulic fluid when I get my rig back home again, to see where it’s leaking and how much. It is in the shop at the moment for a new ignition switch, after gauges and radio intermittently stopped working.
Although everything on and in our RV is obsolete, or upgraded, I had not expected the manual levelers to cause me grief. Looking forward to your suggestions to cure our dilemma.
Here is what our expert had to say:
It sounds like there is an issue with the solenoid valves. These are what cause the jacks to either go up or down and if it is stuck then a certain jack can keep moving in one direction only. Depending on the system you have it could also be the controller as well. Normally there is an alarm when there is an issue with the system. A lot of times this indicates there is an issue with the controller. There are many different systems out there and I don’t know which was installed with yours so I can’t tell you exactly what it might mean. Since you do have the issue with the leak this could also be causing this to happen. When there is a leak in the system it could let in air bubbles. The bubbles can cause issues with things moving when they shouldn’t and also can set off alarms. The slides and leveling all use the same fluid and reservoir so with the slide leaking it could cause issues with the leveling system. Really the best thing to do first is to fix the leak, sometimes internal parts can be replaced like gaskets and other times you have to get a new jack. Once it is fixed you need to bleed the system of air by extending and retracting everything multiple times until there is no bubbles or foam in the reservoir and see if this made a difference. If you are still having issues you will have to narrow down what it could be. If only the front jack is having the issue I would suggest replacing the solenoid valve. If multiple things are struggling then the controller might be the cause.
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
If you need further assistance please reach back out to us!
Sincerely,
Codi
RV Repair Club Video Membership
Hey Don,
You will have to look at the data tag on the axle to get the information you need. There will be a tag in the center of the axle with the manufacture name and info. The brake components can be found using this information. You can also take off the wheel and look at the drum. There is a stamp on the drum with the manufacture and drum size. This will tell you what size you need. You will want to buy ones made for that specific model of axle and brake assembly.
Hi Arthur,
Here is what our expert had to say:
It depends on how the coax cables are set up on your RV. The most common are for the cable coax on the exterior to go to the living room antenna booster. It then goes to the second set, in the bedroom from there. If you connect the satellite to the cable coax and have the booster selected to cable the signal is supposed to go to both TV’s. You should then be able to connect both Wally systems to each area. There are many manufactures that set it up different, separate coax for satellite or two different options. I have seen some that need the booster removed and a separate coax connected to the back from the factory. Really you just need to find out what you have and what is needed to be done to connect all of the coax signals together. Once they are all connected it should work for both receivers. If you have everything connected and the living room works but not the bedroom I would remove the booster and check the connections on the back and make sure they are good and go to the correct place. Also check just past the booster for a splitter, these are common and fail so it may need replaced.
Sincerely, Dan RV Repair Club Technical Expert
If you have other questions please email at rvrepairclub@program-director.net or call us at 1-855-706-3536.
Sincerely,
Codi
RV Repair Club Video Membership
It is best to has your system tested for a gas leak first to make sure it safe. If you disconnect your propane tanks and leave them off for a few hours check the system again. If the CO detector is still going off, most likely it is failing and needs replaced. These can not be fixed and can fail every so often so if it keeps going off when you know there is no gas connected to the system it is best to replace it.
It really depends on what type of trailer you are pulling and how much it ways. If you are pulling a single axle and is less than 5000lbs you only really need sway control with your truck. If you are pulling larger you will have to get a distribution system rated for what you are going to be pulling. They are all made for certain weight ranges so you have to decide on a trailer first. You can get systems that integrate the sway control with it or have it separate. The best system out there is from Equalizer. It is weight and sway built into one and with 4 points of sway control contact it is one of the best on the market. They hold up very well and are easy to take care of. Husky makes one called Centerline that is nice too, better for heavier trucks than light trucks so this would work fine for you as well.
I p[ut a hole in my hydraulic line i got it fixed now what kind of fluid do i need and do i have to drain the rest of the fluid out of the tank or is it ok to mix the fluids together they are different colors
My generator will crank but will not start .put new plugs in it checked the magneto and have fire . Today I got it to fire on carb cleaner so I am think maybe fuel problem, don’t smell any propane . Is there some kind of shutoff or check valve . Thanks
There shouldn’t be a shut off valve. The only thing that is common is your fuel tank has to be at least 1/4 full for the gas to flow to the generator. If your tank is below 1/4 it will not send gas. This is to prevent the RV from being stranded if the generator would use all of the fuel. If your gas level is fine then you want to look into the fuel filter. This is going to be inline from the fuel line around the pump. If this is clogged it will prevent it from firing up as well. Other things that could cause it would be bad fuel pump or varnish inside the carburetor. I would start by checking the fuel filter.
We were first time motorhome buyers & purchased what we “thought” was a pretty good mh. We’ve had some major brake issues but hopefully have that fixed. From watching many videos, I see we have some outside bubble (water damage). I dont see any inside. I’m now having trouble with my batteries. If motorhome is cranked, lights inside will come on, but if not, lights are very dim. What do you recommend? Also, I see I need to remove and reseal everything, so what type sealer should I purchase? Thanks for any & all suggestions.
I am sorry to hear about all of your issues. The bubbles on the outside could be water damage but could be other things as well like glue coming off or a screw from the inside pushing outwards. It is best to check the roof and everything else in that area and make sure it is all sealed. To re seal things you don’t have to remove them, you can just seal over any exposed openings in the current sealant. We do offer a video showing different types of sealants that can be used, I will share the link below. It is just important not to use silicone on the roof. Make sure to use an RV lap sealant on the roof for sealing. As for the batteries it sounds like the house batteries are not holding that good of a charge. There are two batteries, chassis and house. The chassis battery starts and runs the engine and also charges the house batteries. When the engine is turned off the house batteries are what powers the living area. If the lights are dim on the house batteries you will need to test the voltage after they are charged and make sure they are holding a good charge. Local auto parts stores can test the batteries and let you know if they are good or not.
Thank you for contacting us. Great question! The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members of our online community. By becoming a member, you will have access to our expert’s knowledge in RV repair. With your membership you will also receive discounts on products and hours of Premium video content.
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Thank you for your patience while I reached out to the expert, here is the reply:
It depends on what fridge you have but if you are using the standard boiler RV fridge it typically only operates on electric (from shore power only) or on gas. Some people like to operate it on gas while traveling but you do have to be careful as you will have an open flame on the exterior of the RV. You can’t pull up to a gas pump like this. You would have to turn off the fridge before filling with gas and then turn it back on after leaving the pump area. There are also local laws you have to pay attention to depending on where you are traveling. Certain areas, especially areas through tunnels, don’t allow open propane containers while traveling so during areas like this you can’t operate the fridge. They are well insulated so they will stay cool for a while during travel if you got it cold before the trip. If you do choose to operate on gas you have to be very cautious while traveling.
Just a quick Vent..I fixed most of the wrongs….At 400 miles the Generator had to be rebuilt. (Under Warranty) Step would go in and out at random. Dealer claimed it was fixed. It was not. Lever on Driver Seat broke. I ordered a new lever and cable and fixed it myself. A/C has to be on FULL to get cold air. Water leaks into compartment below when raining. If I need anything done on the chassis I have to drive 180 miles. RR Hydraulic leveler goes up about 2 inches after initial setup. I believe I’ll need to reset the level system. Inverter works sometimes when on the road. I believe I got it fixed. Shower leaks at the door. I fixed the seal at the bottom. Last but not all the problems…Found A LOT of saw dust in the overhead vent in the bedroom. Was blowing all over when running A/C…
Just spending some time resealing compartment doors along side of unit. Used The Right Stuff for that. Going to replace weather striping around cabin door soon and crimp connection to inverter. Looking for hub caps that’ll “enhance” appearance. So far , touch wood, no mechanical issues…..only 50,000 miles so shouldn’t have any, but…Generator works but noisy, fridge works well. Have satellite dish on roof that I want to remove. Will need to repair hole after that and when ready will seek advice. Then it’ll be all about detailing and replacing decals and logos. Unless of course, something goes awry in the meantime. Stay tuned. See you later.
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This is our starter RV. Sleeps 7. We just installed a 32″ TV. With an antenna, we get pretty good TV in metro areas. It pulls easily and is quick to set up.
Would you be able to let us know what is not turning on by chance? Also, we will need the year, make, and model of your RV! Once I have all the necessary information, I will forward it to our expert!
Would you be able to provide us with a little more detail regarding your issue and what you’ve done to try to fix it? We also need your year, make, and model of your RV. After I receive those bits of information, I’ll send that to our expert!
Our RV has not run in the last 6 or 7 months! We had an alternator put on back then, then a little later we lost all of our 12 volts from our
Starting battery. No current to the ignition, the front lights, radio, or anything! It has a new battery, and alternator. (All house battery and
12v. And 110 volts are fine, problem is only with front 12v. ALL OF THE FUSES UNDER DASH ARE DEAD, EXCEPT ONE 30 amp. ?
Any ideas ?
If there is no power to the fuse panel you will have to check the battery connections and trace where they go. Most of the time when this happens it is from a bad connection somewhere from the battery. I have also seen many ignition switches fail as well so you will want to test the voltage there and connections as well. If you have a switch to connect the house batteries to the chassis battery (many RV’s do not if there is an isolater switch) turn this on and test it. If it now gets power you know the issue is with a bad connection from the battery. If it still does not work then the issue could be with connections to the fuse block or something through the firewall.
There should be clips or brackets on the side or top that release to open up the box. If you do not see a hinge then the whole face lifts off. If there is a hinge, then it can only open to the side.
We unfortunately don’t have any information on replacing the slide flooring. This is a rather tough task and the room has to be removed to gain access to the floor as most systems are on rollers and you can’t gain access to the screws that hold it in place. Removing the slide from the RV is a large task in it’s own. You have to make sure to take everything off of the slide that touches the floor first. The best way I have found is to take the slide out all of the way. Cut 2×4’s the length of the roof of the slide to the ground, this has to be done on solid ground as well. You will be using these to create legs for supports. You want to screw them into the slide side walls in the same area the fascia pieces are screwed into making sure the boards are touching the ground. Once you have a leg on either side you can remove the interior fascia pieces and backing boards until nothing is blocking the room from coming out. Then with the help of other people guiding the legs you can extend the room out until the side walls are flush with the exterior wall of the RV. You then make legs for the front and install the same way. Once you have 4 legs total, run the room out just enough to clear the floor off of the ground or rollers. The floor will have large screws around the perimeter going up into the side walls. Depending on the slide mechanism you might have to remove the slide arms and brackets too. Once all of the screws and brackets are removed the floor should come down. You can replace in reverse order. Again, this takes a lot of time to do and can be very tough but it can be done.
Hi Elaine. We unfortunately don’t have any information on replacing the slide flooring. This is a rather tough task and the room has to be removed to gain access to the floor as most systems are on rollers and you can’t gain access to the screws that hold it in place. Removing the slide from the RV is a large task in it’s own. You have to make sure to take everything off of the slide that touches the floor first. The best way I have found is to take the slide out all of the way. Cut 2×4’s the length of the roof of the slide to the ground, this has to be done on solid ground as well. You will be using these to create legs for supports. You want to screw them into the slide side walls in the same area the fascia pieces are screwed into making sure the boards are touching the ground. Once you have a leg on either side you can remove the interior fascia pieces and backing boards until nothing is blocking the room from coming out. Then with the help of other people guiding the legs you can extend the room out until the side walls are flush with the exterior wall of the RV. You then make legs for the front and install the same way. Once you have 4 legs total, run the room out just enough to clear the floor off of the ground or rollers. The floor will have large screws around the perimeter going up into the side walls. Depending on the slide mechanism you might have to remove the slide arms and brackets too. Once all of the screws and brackets are removed the floor should come down. You can replace in reverse order. Again, this takes a lot of time to do and can be very tough but it can be done.
Thanks
Dan-RV Repair Club
Gooseneck Canyon by Mexican Hat
Photo somewhere in Utah
The Lady at home.
Beautiful sunset in Hilton Head after a rain shower.
WE LOVE OUR JUST-FOR-2 FOREST RIVER MOTORHOME. IT IS OUR NORTHEAST US TRAVEL BUGGY.
We enjoy our Grand Design Xplore with rear bath.
Our rig is a 2007 Itasca Meridian 36G
i was there this winter
i was there a week ago
LOL 😂 WOW HOW EMBARRASSING. WRONG RIG!
when we were at Lost Dutchman State park
I love horse camping. I love camping even without my horses.
Added a tub Rail system for tubs in my pass through. Love our Grand Design.
2008 holiday rambler Neptune xl pdq water systems not working including hot
Hello. The cold water lines all tie together. If there are some faucets not getting pressure at all, most likely the faucet itself is the issue. If there is no water pressure coming in, the inlet valve could be bad and needs to be replaced. It is possible a previous owner installed shut off valves or did something else with the plumbing but if there is water pressure coming in the main inlet and some fixtures have pressure, then all fixtures should be getting the same pressure. If the cold water works fine everywhere but you aren’t getting hot at any fixtures, there could be an issue with the hot water tank or the bypass valves to the tank. Most RV’s are equipped with bypass valves, this allows you to bypass the hot water tank when winterizing the RV. If these valves are still in winterize mode, it will send cold water to the hot side of the fixtures. I would first check the orientation of these valves and make sure they are setup for summer use. You might have to check the owners manual to see how the water system needs to be setup, every RV is different. If the valves are correct and still no hot water, then you would have to troubleshoot the hot water tank components. I would first start by checking the fuse for 12v and then the breaker if you are trying to use the electric operation. Here are some videos that could help as well:
https://www.rvrepairclub.com/?s=water+heater
Thanks
Dan
RV Lifestyle and Repair
Hope to take your course package some day soon
Any specs that anybody could provide would be great are you.
just looking for more videos and info on this coach
Our home away from home
Our rig next to a vintage Airstream model used during the Gemini and Apollo Space Program at NASA
150 series pulled by a 2018 Nissan Titan
SHOW US YOUR RIG
Install pumps to get rid of the soap bottles to free up your limited countertop space! One less thing to take out and store back away.
wiring and plumbing diagram
Hi..Trying to find out if anyone has installed 4 aftermarket hydralic levelers on a 2022 24.8′ Leisure travel van “Wonder” class B+ ? The factory doesn’t
Axle appears to be bent . Wheels appear to be bent out.
Battery disconnect
door awning stuck in extended position
Hello,
Thank you for contacting us.
What is the year, make, and model of your RV?
Thanks!
Sarah
RV Repair Club Video Membership
We are getting condensation in the lower part of the refrigerator. Do we need to change the seal on the doors.
Hello Mark,
Here’s what the experts had to say about your question:
The only place you should see any moisture in the fridge is on the fins in the top rear. If you are seeing condensation build up around the edges of the fridge on the walls most likely the seals on the door are bad. We do have a video showing how to check this, I will share the link below.
https://www.rvrepairclub.com/video/rv-refrigerator-troubleshooting-checking-fridge-seals-007876/
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
How to Replace black water tank
Are There any common faults to look out for on this model, its our 1st RV and after looking on the internet blogs it seemed a good rig to start with. Many thanks John
Hello John,
We would love to answer this expert question for you but I would need the year, make, and model of the RV your referring to.
Once we receive the information, we can pass it along to the experts.
Sincerely,
Sarah
RV Repair Club Video Membership
I have a question on my new(to me) 1995 Foretravel.
I say your video on the excess flow valve for a propane tank and wonder if this is my problem. When I purchased the RV it had 1/2 tank of propane and the roof AC’s worked fine until I filled the tank. After that, I would turn on the Genny then the AC’s (both) and within about 10 min the genny would stop and not immediately restart.
I stopped at an Onan shop at the end of their day and they tried it. Same deal, Genny ran fine until load put on it then after a few min it shut down. I was heading home so I did not stay overnight for them to TS it. They suggested that it could be the liquid propane line freezing as it seems to be the line that feeds the generator.
Tank is now at about 1/2 and when I tried it yesterday with only 1 AC, it still shut down the genny after a few min. Was going to try it with 1 AC on low but thought I would ask you as I am now a gold member.
Thanks
Joe Buford
Hi Joseph. The best way to find out for sure is to test the gas system on other things while running the generator. I would start with the stove top burners. Get the flames to light and then run the generator. If the flames go out or drop down drastically then there is an issue with gas flow. It could be either the main regulator, gas line flow valve, or a blockage in the line. Typically the generator running alone means the gas is good. If the generator bogs down when a load is on it this usually means there is an issue with the generator itself. Usually it is from carburetor clogs or something with the intake system. I would check to make sure the filters are clear and get the carburetor cleaned to see if this helps.
Dan
RV Repair Club
Onan 7k marquis generator fuel pump replacement
Is still available? More details please, is it diesel??
Fridge and freezer keep freezing walls and back interior wall
Hello James,
Thank you for contacting us.
What is the year, make, and model of your RV?
If you have any other concerns, please contact us at 1-855-706-3536, or chat with us on our site.
We greatly appreciate your business!
Sincerely,
Lindsay
RV Repair Club Video Membership
I know not how.to.get it cool , get it leveled out, hot water, water pressure, empty tank, and to secure the doors and windows. The ignition is a screwdriver also.
How to clean the white faded paint on outside RV, what kind of wax or polish to use .tried several things. I think the white is from water?
Hello Raymond,
Here’s what the experts had to say about your question:
If you have white markings over a painted area this is usually from the clear coat fading. When it gets to this point it is best to try a rubbing compound and buffing wheel to smooth it back out and restore the coating. It could also be mineral deposits from water and the rubbing compound could help with this as well. These compounds and buffing wheels are usually supplied at auto parts stores.
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
Toilet Bubbling
Fuse listing for front fuse box
Our retirement home
Just purchased and bringing it home before 1st trip – let the adventures begin!
Have it for three years and under 28,000 miles one it.
We are the original owners of our 2000 Harney Renegade 37′ Class A. The RVA levelers controller has lost its mind. On the last two trips, the Bong Alarm would not shut off when jacks were retracted. The right rear jack was replaced a few years ago after a mishap slightly bent the original one (I forgot they were down and tried to drive away).
My husband topped off reservoir according to directions in “RVA Fluid Level Service” bulletin, and it still Bonged. CA to Oregon and back in December and CA to AZ in January and back home in Feb. Not able to get into RV repair shop in Yuma until April (appointment made and planning to be there if we can’t fix this).
In AZ, it started not responding to the switches. Pump runs, but jacks move very slowly and/or don’t respond to corresponding switch. If I start with the front jack, then switch to another jack, the front will continue to deploy. Even if I try to retract it, it will continue to deploy. The All Retract position doesn’t work consistently and may in fact continue raising the last jack deployed. Fluid level seems good.
In trying to track the path of the system’s hoses and wires, I noticed a substantial amount of hydraulic fluid has leaked from the slide’s ram onto the attached storage bays below (only has one slide). Are they sharing a system like the 5th Wheel Video in your file demonstrates? It wouldn’t explain the controller being erratic but might explain the Bong Alarm.
I’ll clean off the hydraulic fluid when I get my rig back home again, to see where it’s leaking and how much. It is in the shop at the moment for a new ignition switch, after gauges and radio intermittently stopped working.
Although everything on and in our RV is obsolete, or upgraded, I had not expected the manual levelers to cause me grief. Looking forward to your suggestions to cure our dilemma.
Sincerely, Susan & Richard
Hi Richard,
Here is what our expert had to say:
It sounds like there is an issue with the solenoid valves. These are what cause the jacks to either go up or down and if it is stuck then a certain jack can keep moving in one direction only. Depending on the system you have it could also be the controller as well. Normally there is an alarm when there is an issue with the system. A lot of times this indicates there is an issue with the controller. There are many different systems out there and I don’t know which was installed with yours so I can’t tell you exactly what it might mean. Since you do have the issue with the leak this could also be causing this to happen. When there is a leak in the system it could let in air bubbles. The bubbles can cause issues with things moving when they shouldn’t and also can set off alarms. The slides and leveling all use the same fluid and reservoir so with the slide leaking it could cause issues with the leveling system. Really the best thing to do first is to fix the leak, sometimes internal parts can be replaced like gaskets and other times you have to get a new jack. Once it is fixed you need to bleed the system of air by extending and retracting everything multiple times until there is no bubbles or foam in the reservoir and see if this made a difference. If you are still having issues you will have to narrow down what it could be. If only the front jack is having the issue I would suggest replacing the solenoid valve. If multiple things are struggling then the controller might be the cause.
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
If you need further assistance please reach back out to us!
Sincerely,
Codi
RV Repair Club Video Membership
Thanks for providing this service. It’s great!
My first rig. I love it, still learning all about it too
auto stairwell cover inop
Suspention & Tire Maintenance
what brake disc pads for Front and rear do I need to buy?
Hey Don,
You will have to look at the data tag on the axle to get the information you need. There will be a tag in the center of the axle with the manufacture name and info. The brake components can be found using this information. You can also take off the wheel and look at the drum. There is a stamp on the drum with the manufacture and drum size. This will tell you what size you need. You will want to buy ones made for that specific model of axle and brake assembly.
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
Where is a good place to buy front Seats. I have a bad back and Can’t sit in just any seat
Anyone know how to hookup the cables for one tv in living area and another TV in bedroom with two wallys
Hi Arthur,
Here is what our expert had to say:
It depends on how the coax cables are set up on your RV. The most common are for the cable coax on the exterior to go to the living room antenna booster. It then goes to the second set, in the bedroom from there. If you connect the satellite to the cable coax and have the booster selected to cable the signal is supposed to go to both TV’s. You should then be able to connect both Wally systems to each area. There are many manufactures that set it up different, separate coax for satellite or two different options. I have seen some that need the booster removed and a separate coax connected to the back from the factory. Really you just need to find out what you have and what is needed to be done to connect all of the coax signals together. Once they are all connected it should work for both receivers. If you have everything connected and the living room works but not the bedroom I would remove the booster and check the connections on the back and make sure they are good and go to the correct place. Also check just past the booster for a splitter, these are common and fail so it may need replaced.
Sincerely, Dan RV Repair Club Technical Expert
If you have other questions please email at rvrepairclub@program-director.net or call us at 1-855-706-3536.
Sincerely,
Codi
RV Repair Club Video Membership
How to manually put in steps? How to manually put in a slide out?
Hello Michael!
We will need more information in order to assist you further. What is the year, make, and model of you’re RV?
Thank you
Sincerely
Ayan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
Was wondering how to manually put in the slide outs?
Hello Michael!
Can we please get the year, make, and model of you’re RV?
Thank you!
Ayan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
Can someone tell me where the hood release is please?
Hi Debbie,
Great question! I will need more information from you. What is the year, make and model of your RV?
Sincerely,
Shelley
RV Repair Club Video Membership
Black tank won’t empty any suggestions?
Hello Ron!
Could we get the year, make, and model of your RV?
Thank you!
Jessica
RV Repair Club Video Membership
Upgrading the floor
Hi Mike,
Thank you for reaching out to us! Could you give me more detail on what you are looking for?
Sincerely,
Shelley
RV Repair Club
Carbon monoxide detection unit keeps going off every 20 minutes. All windows are open. Still going off. What to do?
It is best to has your system tested for a gas leak first to make sure it safe. If you disconnect your propane tanks and leave them off for a few hours check the system again. If the CO detector is still going off, most likely it is failing and needs replaced. These can not be fixed and can fail every so often so if it keeps going off when you know there is no gas connected to the system it is best to replace it.
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
What sort of sway system and/or tension system should I install/ I will be pulling with a RAM 2500.
It really depends on what type of trailer you are pulling and how much it ways. If you are pulling a single axle and is less than 5000lbs you only really need sway control with your truck. If you are pulling larger you will have to get a distribution system rated for what you are going to be pulling. They are all made for certain weight ranges so you have to decide on a trailer first. You can get systems that integrate the sway control with it or have it separate. The best system out there is from Equalizer. It is weight and sway built into one and with 4 points of sway control contact it is one of the best on the market. They hold up very well and are easy to take care of. Husky makes one called Centerline that is nice too, better for heavier trucks than light trucks so this would work fine for you as well.
https://www.equalizerhitch.com/how-equalizer-works
https://www.huskytow.com/husky-towing-32216-weight-distribution-hitch
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
I p[ut a hole in my hydraulic line i got it fixed now what kind of fluid do i need and do i have to drain the rest of the fluid out of the tank or is it ok to mix the fluids together they are different colors
Hi Joseph,
Thank you for reaching out to us. I need more information on your RV, whats the year, make and model?
pop out beds with soft wood underneath
My generator will crank but will not start .put new plugs in it checked the magneto and have fire . Today I got it to fire on carb cleaner so I am think maybe fuel problem, don’t smell any propane . Is there some kind of shutoff or check valve . Thanks
There shouldn’t be a shut off valve. The only thing that is common is your fuel tank has to be at least 1/4 full for the gas to flow to the generator. If your tank is below 1/4 it will not send gas. This is to prevent the RV from being stranded if the generator would use all of the fuel. If your gas level is fine then you want to look into the fuel filter. This is going to be inline from the fuel line around the pump. If this is clogged it will prevent it from firing up as well. Other things that could cause it would be bad fuel pump or varnish inside the carburetor. I would start by checking the fuel filter.
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
This is a 3 slide unit. front bedroom back living room.
We were first time motorhome buyers & purchased what we “thought” was a pretty good mh. We’ve had some major brake issues but hopefully have that fixed. From watching many videos, I see we have some outside bubble (water damage). I dont see any inside. I’m now having trouble with my batteries. If motorhome is cranked, lights inside will come on, but if not, lights are very dim. What do you recommend? Also, I see I need to remove and reseal everything, so what type sealer should I purchase? Thanks for any & all suggestions.
I am sorry to hear about all of your issues. The bubbles on the outside could be water damage but could be other things as well like glue coming off or a screw from the inside pushing outwards. It is best to check the roof and everything else in that area and make sure it is all sealed. To re seal things you don’t have to remove them, you can just seal over any exposed openings in the current sealant. We do offer a video showing different types of sealants that can be used, I will share the link below. It is just important not to use silicone on the roof. Make sure to use an RV lap sealant on the roof for sealing. As for the batteries it sounds like the house batteries are not holding that good of a charge. There are two batteries, chassis and house. The chassis battery starts and runs the engine and also charges the house batteries. When the engine is turned off the house batteries are what powers the living area. If the lights are dim on the house batteries you will need to test the voltage after they are charged and make sure they are holding a good charge. Local auto parts stores can test the batteries and let you know if they are good or not.
https://www.rvrepairclub.com/video/choosing-the-right-rv-sealants-for-your-vehicle-009072/
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
when i install a battery in my motorhome i get a clicking sound every 10-20 seconds. Kind of sounds like something is trying to cycle on .
Hello Jim,
Thank you for contacting us. Great question! The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members of our online community. By becoming a member, you will have access to our expert’s knowledge in RV repair. With your membership you will also receive discounts on products and hours of Premium video content.
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Sincerely,
Joan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
Beginners walk around
About to invest in this RV anything I should know?
Andree,
I am not sure what the question is. Are you buying a used RV and have some concerns?
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
how do you keep your food cold when traveling down the road, do you use propane while traveling or is it powered by battery?
Hello Leon,
Thank you for your patience while I reached out to the expert, here is the reply:
It depends on what fridge you have but if you are using the standard boiler RV fridge it typically only operates on electric (from shore power only) or on gas. Some people like to operate it on gas while traveling but you do have to be careful as you will have an open flame on the exterior of the RV. You can’t pull up to a gas pump like this. You would have to turn off the fridge before filling with gas and then turn it back on after leaving the pump area. There are also local laws you have to pay attention to depending on where you are traveling. Certain areas, especially areas through tunnels, don’t allow open propane containers while traveling so during areas like this you can’t operate the fridge. They are well insulated so they will stay cool for a while during travel if you got it cold before the trip. If you do choose to operate on gas you have to be very cautious while traveling.
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
Just a quick Vent..I fixed most of the wrongs….At 400 miles the Generator had to be rebuilt. (Under Warranty) Step would go in and out at random. Dealer claimed it was fixed. It was not. Lever on Driver Seat broke. I ordered a new lever and cable and fixed it myself. A/C has to be on FULL to get cold air. Water leaks into compartment below when raining. If I need anything done on the chassis I have to drive 180 miles. RR Hydraulic leveler goes up about 2 inches after initial setup. I believe I’ll need to reset the level system. Inverter works sometimes when on the road. I believe I got it fixed. Shower leaks at the door. I fixed the seal at the bottom. Last but not all the problems…Found A LOT of saw dust in the overhead vent in the bedroom. Was blowing all over when running A/C…
Just spending some time resealing compartment doors along side of unit. Used The Right Stuff for that. Going to replace weather striping around cabin door soon and crimp connection to inverter. Looking for hub caps that’ll “enhance” appearance. So far , touch wood, no mechanical issues…..only 50,000 miles so shouldn’t have any, but…Generator works but noisy, fridge works well. Have satellite dish on roof that I want to remove. Will need to repair hole after that and when ready will seek advice. Then it’ll be all about detailing and replacing decals and logos. Unless of course, something goes awry in the meantime. Stay tuned. See you later.
Latest conversion project. Wiring in an ambulance is a night mare. Unable to find anyone who knows anything about them.
Do anybody know what size inverter is on that motor coach and where is it located
Hi Benher,
Thank you for contacting us. In order to answer your question the experts will need to know the year, make and model of the RV you are asking about.
Be Safe,
Joan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
My wife and myself a new to this this our first RV
The flusher pedal popped-off on our toilet. Can it be repaired/replaced, or do I need to replace the entire toilet?
Hey there Martin!
That’s a great question!
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If you have any further questions, please contact Customer Service at 1-855-706-3536 at your earliest convenience, or chat with us on our site.
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Sincerely,
Jessica
RV Repair Club Video Membership
How to remove white powdery dust on outside of motorhome
Hello Valerie!
We’d love to help!
Could you provide us with a little more detail regarding the issue you’re running into, as well as the year, make, and model of your RV?
Thank you!
Jessica
RV Repair Club Video Membership
New to club
Any information.
This is our starter RV. Sleeps 7. We just installed a 32″ TV. With an antenna, we get pretty good TV in metro areas. It pulls easily and is quick to set up.
Manual spring loaded awning will not retract. It is the smaller window size. Has no tension like the others.
I’m missing the summer time.
Sorry wrong thread
Great ride for sure
Not turning on, no fan, dead. Connected thermostat wires, got nothing. All fuses in coach panel are good.
Hi there Ray!
Oh no! That’s not good. Let’s see if we can help!
Would you be able to let us know what is not turning on by chance? Also, we will need the year, make, and model of your RV! Once I have all the necessary information, I will forward it to our expert!
Sincerely,
Jessica
RV Repair Club Video Membership
No electrical fire to the ECM
Hi there Larry!
We’d love to help!
Would you be able to provide us with a little more detail regarding your issue and what you’ve done to try to fix it? We also need your year, make, and model of your RV. After I receive those bits of information, I’ll send that to our expert!
Thank you!
Jessica
RV Repair Club Video Membership
Our RV has not run in the last 6 or 7 months! We had an alternator put on back then, then a little later we lost all of our 12 volts from our
Starting battery. No current to the ignition, the front lights, radio, or anything! It has a new battery, and alternator. (All house battery and
12v. And 110 volts are fine, problem is only with front 12v. ALL OF THE FUSES UNDER DASH ARE DEAD, EXCEPT ONE 30 amp. ?
Any ideas ?
Charles,
If there is no power to the fuse panel you will have to check the battery connections and trace where they go. Most of the time when this happens it is from a bad connection somewhere from the battery. I have also seen many ignition switches fail as well so you will want to test the voltage there and connections as well. If you have a switch to connect the house batteries to the chassis battery (many RV’s do not if there is an isolater switch) turn this on and test it. If it now gets power you know the issue is with a bad connection from the battery. If it still does not work then the issue could be with connections to the fuse block or something through the firewall.
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
F53 chasise hot lead in front fuse box. How to open this fuse box.
George,
There should be clips or brackets on the side or top that release to open up the box. If you do not see a hinge then the whole face lifts off. If there is a hinge, then it can only open to the side.
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
to replace the flooring on. The slideout
Hello Elaine,
We unfortunately don’t have any information on replacing the slide flooring. This is a rather tough task and the room has to be removed to gain access to the floor as most systems are on rollers and you can’t gain access to the screws that hold it in place. Removing the slide from the RV is a large task in it’s own. You have to make sure to take everything off of the slide that touches the floor first. The best way I have found is to take the slide out all of the way. Cut 2×4’s the length of the roof of the slide to the ground, this has to be done on solid ground as well. You will be using these to create legs for supports. You want to screw them into the slide side walls in the same area the fascia pieces are screwed into making sure the boards are touching the ground. Once you have a leg on either side you can remove the interior fascia pieces and backing boards until nothing is blocking the room from coming out. Then with the help of other people guiding the legs you can extend the room out until the side walls are flush with the exterior wall of the RV. You then make legs for the front and install the same way. Once you have 4 legs total, run the room out just enough to clear the floor off of the ground or rollers. The floor will have large screws around the perimeter going up into the side walls. Depending on the slide mechanism you might have to remove the slide arms and brackets too. Once all of the screws and brackets are removed the floor should come down. You can replace in reverse order. Again, this takes a lot of time to do and can be very tough but it can be done.
Sincerely,
Dan, RV Repair Club Technical Expert
Hi Elaine. We unfortunately don’t have any information on replacing the slide flooring. This is a rather tough task and the room has to be removed to gain access to the floor as most systems are on rollers and you can’t gain access to the screws that hold it in place. Removing the slide from the RV is a large task in it’s own. You have to make sure to take everything off of the slide that touches the floor first. The best way I have found is to take the slide out all of the way. Cut 2×4’s the length of the roof of the slide to the ground, this has to be done on solid ground as well. You will be using these to create legs for supports. You want to screw them into the slide side walls in the same area the fascia pieces are screwed into making sure the boards are touching the ground. Once you have a leg on either side you can remove the interior fascia pieces and backing boards until nothing is blocking the room from coming out. Then with the help of other people guiding the legs you can extend the room out until the side walls are flush with the exterior wall of the RV. You then make legs for the front and install the same way. Once you have 4 legs total, run the room out just enough to clear the floor off of the ground or rollers. The floor will have large screws around the perimeter going up into the side walls. Depending on the slide mechanism you might have to remove the slide arms and brackets too. Once all of the screws and brackets are removed the floor should come down. You can replace in reverse order. Again, this takes a lot of time to do and can be very tough but it can be done.
Thanks
Dan-RV Repair Club