Hello Charlie,

THank you for contacting us.

It depends on what connection is used there. If there is a clamp holding the pipe fitting into the tank, these are usually just filled with putty sealant and can be taken apart, cleaned and installed with new sealant. If it is glued into place you will have to try to apply more sealant to close the opening. I have had good luck with JB Weld cement that can be used on ABS components for sealing cracks. You can also try using ABS cement for very small cracks, just make sure everything is dry before using it.

If you have any other concerns, please contact us at 1-855-706-3536, or chat with us on our site.

We greatly appreciate your business!

Sincerely,

Sarah
RV Repair Club Video Membership

Hi Drew. There are really only two things that can cause this since you already replaced the igniter. Either the igniter is not making a good connection to the metal to make an electrical connection or the control board is not sending a spark. The metal around the burner needs to be clean so the igniter can create a spark. Use sand paper to clean the burner by the igniter tip and make sure the igniter tip is only 3/16″ away from the burner. If it is too far away it will not work properly. If all of that is good then the only thing left would be the control board. This is what sends the voltage to the igniter to create the spark and most likely it would need replaced.
Dan
RV Repair Club

Hello Marlene!

That’s a great question!

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Ayan
RV Repair Club Video Membership

Hi Kevin. It is possible the switch you are talking about is for the water heater but the only options for the water heater are going to be electric 120v or propane gas. It will not have a battery option. Usually the water heater controls are going to be around the kitchen area, near the main monitoring panel or sometimes in the hallway or bathroom as well. If your switch doesn’t say “electric” or “gas” it can sometimes have symbols with an electric bolt and water droplet to indicate the options as well. The gas option usually has a red light next to it as well. Many RV’s only have gas only, not a combination system with both heat options. If you have the correct switches and you still aren’t getting hot water there could be a few things causing this. You first want to check and make sure the bypass valves are set properly. These are the valves typically on the back of the tank or in the wetbay to bypass the tank when winterizing. If they are still in bypass hot water will not flow to the lines. You will have to open the valves to get water in the tank and to the lines. If the valves are fine then there could be an issue with voltage to the tank. Check the breakers and fuses at the distribution center and make sure they are all good. After that you will have to test voltage at the board on the tank and then test the components themselves. Usually it is a voltage issue or the bypass lines are in the wrong position to not be getting hot water. We do have some great videos that could help as well, I will share a link below!

https://www.rvrepairclub.com/?s=water+heater#

Sincerely,DanRV Repair Club Technical Expert

Hello Melinda! We’d love to help! What is the year, make, and model of your RV? Thanks!