It is important to understand the basics of 120-volt power and how it supplies components in your RV. The power pedestal or “Shoreline Power” at the campground typically has three connections for 50 amp, 30 amp, and 15 amp power.
The 50 amp plug in is for larger coaches to supply 240 volts, 120 volts per “leg” to supply power for two roof air conditioners and other appliances.
The 30 amp plug provides 120-volt power limited to 30 amps so typically only one roof air conditioner can be use at a time. The 15 amp plug in is similar to a residential outlet and is only used for smaller trailers.
The 120-volt shoreline power comes into your rig to the distribution center which has a main breaker and then circuit breakers for 120-volt appliances, outlets, and the converter.
Each circuit breaker should be labeled with the component it powers and the amp capacity of the breaker. Power is supplied from the distribution center to the appliances and outlets by an electrical commonly referred to as Romex that has conductors or wires inside a protective sheeting known as the cable. For most appliances there would be three wires, hot, neutral, and ground very similar to the electrical connection in your home.
Any outlet located close to a water source such as the kitchen sink, bathroom sink and shower, or outside outlet must be protected by a ground fault circuit interrupter or GFCI. This outlet is a device that shuts off an electric power circuit when it detects that current is flowing in an unintended path such as through water or a person. It is used to reduce the risk of electric shock, which can cause the heart to stop or cause burns. They can also prevent some fires, like when a live wire touches a metal conduit.
Typically RV manufactures will use the recognized GFCI outlet with test/reset buttons in one location, then another Romex wire is connected to that same GFCI outlet on the second set of terminals and is routed to other outlets which is called “ganged” as there could be several outlets connected in this same fashion just like the outlets in your garage or living room of your home. If you have a GFCI outlet at the first connection, all other outlets on the circuit are protected by the GFCI but will usually not have the test/reset button and are known as “dummy plates”. They should have a GFCI Protected sticker on them, but that does not always stay on.
This means you could have one or two GFCI test/reset outlets on different circuits and if that outlets trips, or becomes defective, the other outlets on that “gang” or circuit will not get power. It’s a good idea to test which outlets are on what GFCI main outlet. Get a non-contact voltage tester from any home improvement store and press the test button on the GFCI outlet. Now use the non-contact voltage tester to verify what outlets do not have power. These will be connected or “ganged” to that outlet.
Back to the distribution panel, another 120-volt power supply goes to the converter or battery charger which also has it’s own circuit breakers. This provides a 12-volt charge to the deep cycle house batteries as they become depleted and will also have an amp draw that you will need to be aware of if you are on a 15 amp or 30 amp shoreline source. Newer models can draw up to 9 amps to provide more charging power but does limit the use of other appliances on the lower amp systems.
That is an overview of the 120-volt electrical system in your RV. It is similar to the set up in your home, with just a few differences, and the addition of a 12-volt converter thrown into the mix. Coming up next, we’ll learn to understand the power power requirements of your rig, and how to manage it!
I have a wiring problem from my 120V Romex wire from the breaker to the bathroom Water heater switch. Trios breaker instantly. Disconnected Hot (black) from switch still trips. Switched breakers still trips. I have an access question. Wire seems to be running under floor but not outside of motor home. How can I gain access to the wiring?
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Is it possible to just plug this unit into your house power?
I have this generator (Onan 7000) that is wired only for one leg right now. I have the 2 hot wires on the same block (I think L1) and 2 white wires with different striping. If I move one of the hot wires to block 2, do I also need to move one of the white ones with it? and does it matter which one? I want my generator to supply both A/C as it is capable off.
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Why won’t my 2 invertor generators (1-2000watt + 1-2500 watt) using a parallel connection box provide any AC power to my camper? I am utilizing a dogbone and I have 120 volts feeding the camper plug in but no voltage at the breaker panel.
Hi Stephen. The only way to trace where the issue is,is to test and trace voltage. If there is voltage to the parallel kit, you need to test the voltage through the dogbone. If there is voltage through the dogbone, then you need to check the voltage at the other end of the power cord if there is a connection behind the cord connection. From there you test at the main breaker. Wherever there is no voltage, the previous component is the issue at fault. Most of the time the adapters are the issue. These can go bad often. It could be a loose connection somewhere as well. The ground or negative could be bad within the RV and it would prevent voltage from getting through.
Dan
RV Repair Club
Location of secondary GFI or circuit breaker… Replace the GFI outlet in the bathroom got a green light… But no 12 0 in some of the outlets
Looking for the fuse box for the RV? I found one under the drivers column but can fine the one for the electrical plugs and rest of the RV
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On my 2005 Fleetwood Excursion my TV and the microwave has no power. I have searched throughout the kitchen and bathroom area for a reset button to no avail. Where is the reset button and I guess the next thing is to test the receptacles.
Hello Ray,
Thank you for contacting us.
Often there is a GFCI that is connected to multiple circuits and this is usually in the kitchen or bathroom. There can even be more than one sometimes. The microwave usually isn’t on a GFCI circuit so I would first start by checking the main breakers. Look for one that says “microwave”, it typically has it’s own breaker. If there are no breakers tripped then I would test the voltage at the breaker to make sure it is working. If there is voltage to each breaker then you will have to track down the GFCI’s and test that. After that you would have to inspect the receptacles individually. Normally if more than one circuit is bad then it leads to a bad breaker or GFCI.
Sincerely,
Sarah
RV Repair Club Video Membership
My rv won’t convert 120 to 12v.
Hello Stephen,
Here’s what the experts had to say about your question:
The first thing to check is the fuse on the converter. Depending on the model of converter, there could be a fuse at the main fuse panel or on the converter itself for the unit. If you have a converter that is separate from the power center, usually directly behind it, then it usually has it’s own fuse attached to it. Built in converters will usually have the fuse at the fuse panel in the power center. I would then test the 120v at the breaker for the converter and make sure it is good. If the fuse is fine and there is good 120v going to the converter and it is still not producing 12v, then most likely the converter is bad and needs replaced. The only way to know is to check the fuses, test the voltage and make sure everything has good connections.
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
Need help setting up battery and propane
Hello,
Thank you for contacting us.
What is the year, make, and model of your RV?
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Gfci tester to the back part of 5th wheel keeps tripping. We replaced gfci tester but with no change. What do I do next?
Hi Terry. These will trip from a short in the circuit, a component connected to the circuit or an issue with the outlet you are plugged into. It is best to remove anything plugged into an outlet that is on the same circuit. If it still trips then you know the issue is with the wiring or the outlet you are plugged in. If it only trips when a certain component is plugged in, the issue is with that component. If you are using an adapter when plugged into an outlet that could be the issue as well. I see these adapters fail often and cause shorts internally. If you are able to plug into a different outlet and see if the issue is still present, this will tell you the issue lies within the wiring of the circuit.
Dan
RV Repair Club
I plug into my house expecting to to power up the microwave oven and the electrical outlets etc but they don’t power up. When I start the generator, poof everything works including the outlets. What am I doing wrong?
It’s a 2003 Winnebago Brave 34d
Hello Dave,
Here’s what the experts had to say about your question:
You will need to test the outlet at your house and the adapter you are using first. Make sure the breaker isn’t tripped and a GFCI isn’t the issue. Testing at the source is the best place to begin. You will have a transfer switch in your unit and it is possible this is not working properly as well. I would plug something else into this outlet at your house and make sure it is working. If it is, then you might have to check your transfer switch and see if it is allowing voltage through.
Here is a video on installing a transfer switch to give you a good idea on how to test one: https://www.rvrepairclub.com/video/upgrading-30-amp-transfer-switch-008179/
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
Please let us know if you have any further questions
Sincerely,
Sarah
RV Repair Club Video Membership
In the basement compartment where the shore power enters the RV there is a piece of equipment that looks like a transformer it is supplied with power from a 110 V outlet located in the same compartment. Any Idea what it is?
Hi Neil. Great question! The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members of our online community. By becoming a member, you will have access to our expert’s knowledge. With your membership you will also receive discounts on products and hundreds of hours of Premium content.
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Sarah
RV Repair Club
We brought out new 5th Wheel home after staying one night in the store’s campground on 50 amp shore power. Then decided it would be a good time to learn how the generator works as we will be boon docking for two nights later this month. Well, we fired it up and couldn’t get the main living area a/c to work. It’s 15,000 btu. So we shut that one off and fired up the bedroom a/c. Started right up. Also not working are little things like the microwave, ceiling fan, and a couple of outlets. So we started looking at GFCI outlets. The one in the bathroom is tripped and won’t reset. A meter shows there is power to it. Could the GFCI just all of a sudden go bad??? Everything worked great at the campground.
Hello Kathee,
Please send the year, make and model of your RV, and then I can forward your question to our expert. Thank you!
Sincerely,
Sarah
RV Repair Club Video Membership
I need to replace the breaker switch part of my converter. Im having difficulties finding parts. Any suggestions would be so much help. This is my first rv. I also own a Hornet pull behind camper that im restoring.
Hi Terry!
I would need to see the switch to see if it is something that can be replaced. Most of the time converters don’t have replaceable parts, the whole converter needs replaced if there are issues with it. If you have a picture of the switch I could tell you if it is something that can be replaced and check to see if I can find it.
Sincerely, Dan RV Repair Club Technical Expert
Recommended surge protection
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Lindsay
RV Repair Club Video Membership
When RV is connected to 120 volt plug in garage, power in garage trips, with everything in the RV powered off including the hot water heater.
Hello Randall,
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Lindsay
RV Repair Club Video Membership
no power in coach, have shore power to input side of inverter/converter and at transfere switch, have power to part of dash, but no 12 volt power to seats or other accessories, no 110 power anywhere suggestions on where to check would be appreciated. thanks don t
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Lindsay
RV Repair Club Video Membership
Why is static on my rv speaker even the radio is off and my lights blik, an amber light it’s on when ,i turn a braker offthe static goes off the light turn green and the lights don’t blink any more, what can be causeing this problem?
Hello Fernando,
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Lindsay
RV Repair Club Video Membership
Can i drive my M H w/o house battiers connected?
Hello Kenneth,
Thank you for contacting us. Yes you can do this. The house batteries are only needed to power the living area of the RV. The engine has a chassis battery that starts the engine. You don’t need the house batteries to travel. It is important to cover the wires to the house batteries though. The house batteries charge while traveling from the alternator so you could short the wires in the compartment if they aren’t covered.
If you have any other concerns, please contact us at 1-855-706-3536, or chat with us on our site.
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Lindsay
RV Repair Club Video Membership
our RV has two air-conditioner, but we were told it is 30AMP
It seems that when I am not connected to shore power and I start the generator my GFI circuits don’t operate and the only way to reset them is when connected to a 30 amp service. Is this normal for the GFI circuits not to operate while under generator power?
Hi Wayne. Great question! The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members of our online community. I would be happy to send your question off to the experts. To get started, please send the email associated with your paid membership account. Thanks!
New to RV’ing, need to learn more
Also I eed to find the electrical plug location in my trailer.
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We are brand new owners of a 2017 Winnebago Vista 31KE. Does this coach have any GFI outlets, and if so where would I find them.would I find them
Hi James. You will have at least one GFCI circuit, there can sometimes be two. The outlet will be either in the kitchen or bathroom, typically within 6ft of a water source. This is what is required to be connected to a GFCI circuit. They can be under top cabinets or down below the countertop. There are some RV’s that come with two GFCI outlets, again check the kitchen and bath but also check outside compartments as well especially if you have an outside kitchen, they are found often in here. You can check your breakers as well, they usually list the circuits as GFCI outlets. If you only see one breaker listed with a GFCI then you only have one.
Dan
RV Repair Club
Thinking about a possible upgrade from my 30A system to a 50A. The way I understand it, 30A is just that having a hot-neutral-ground but 50A is actually like 100A as you can load 120V 50A on each hot? Or are we limited to only 50A due to the single neutral return? I had planned to add the second line to the breaker panel and use the additional capacity for outlets directly wired to breakers and not using my systems power management system. Thoughts?
Hi Ed. It is possible to do, I have done this before. You have to replace a lot of items. So first off you are correct about the systems. The 30 amp system has one hot leg of 30 amp going into the power center to the main breaker that then feeds the buss bar the rest of the breakers are attached to. A 50 amp system has two hot legs rated at 50 amps each coming in. These then attach to separate breakers rated at 50 amps each and then feed two separate buss bars, each having a rating of 50 amps. You will need a new power center for the breakers. The old system was made with one buss bar for the hot leg, you will need a system set up for two bars. You then need to replace the shore cord to the power center. Most of the time the 50 amp shore cord is a detachable cord that plugs into the exterior of the RV. This means you will have to run 8ga wire from the back of the shore outlet on the wall to the power center. If you are able to keep a longer shore cord in a storage compartment you could have the cord connected directly to the power center but most often installing the exterior outlet to plug into is an easier install. Once you have this set up you can install new breakers into the system, if the old ones fit you can still use them but you would need two 50 amp breakers at least to get started. You won’t be able to add just another line, you would need to replace all of these items for it to work properly.
Dan
RV Repair Club
I have very little need for an electrical draw. I have a 110 refer and AC. A 12-volt heater blower and a few 12-volt lights. I have a 2000 watt inverter for batt to 110. But I want to wire the external shore power to run the AC Refer while charging the Batteries soI can Boondock.
Hi Robert. I am sorry but I am not understanding the question. When you are plugged into shore power you should be able to run the fridge and AC while the battery charges. If you are boondocking you would have to use a generator to power the shore cord or use the battery and an inverter. Your inverter is only rated to run the fridge, you can’t run the AC while boondocking. The fridge will most likely last only about 6-8 hours off of a single group 24 battery. To keep running the fridge you would need a good solar setup to recover the voltage lost and a larger battery bank to keep it going longer. For a 3 day weekend trip you would need at least 4 batteries and 10 amp solar panel setup. This would be able to run the fridge and your 12v components. This is one of the reasosn RV absorption fridges are the best for RV’s, very low power and fuel consumption. Residential fridges aren’t really made to be used for boondocking for long periods of time. You won’t be able to run the AC while boondocking either off of batteries alone. This is a very high amp draw appliance. You would need a larger inverter to handle this, 3000 or above, and also a much larger battery bank to keep it running for even a day or so. It is very hard to run the AC off of battery power. It can be done but like I said you need a very larger battery bank, inverter and solar setup to do this. The best way to run the AC while boondocking is off of a generator.
Dan
RV Repair Club
do I have to have a GFI to plug in at the post for my RV ?
Hi Lorena. GFI outlets are only required in areas that are within 6 feet of a water source or wet areas. This includes the kitchen, bathroom and outside outlets on RV’s. Technically if you didn’t have a sink, bathroom or outside outlets you wouldn’t need a GFI outlet. This means you don’t have to have one to plug into an RV shore post but your RV by code is required to have one if there is an outlet within 6ft of a wet area or water source.
Dan
RV Repair Club
How much current does the house battery charger draw when charging the 3 house batteries ,?
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Why wont my shore line recharge the house batteries?
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Sincerely,
Lindsay
RV Repair Club Video Membership
the wiring schematic shows a grounding terminal and two valves that in included. where are they located on the furnace
Hello Niles,
Thank you for contacting us.
The two valves should be the gas valve, it has two solenoids on it. So it will have positive wires jumping to each valve. The grounding terminal is usually just the green wire screwed into the metal casing at the bottom somewhere. Usually there isn’t a terminal block for the ground, it is just attached to bare metal.
If you have any other concerns, please contact us at 1-855-706-3536, or chat with us on our site.
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Sincerely,
Lindsay
RV Repair Club Video Membership
Rv lighting switches
Ticket 35303 Water heater does not heat up when on electic system. System does work on gas.
Hello Kenneth,
Thank you for contacting us. Here is the experts response:
It is best to check the voltage at the heating element when it is turned on to electric. Suburban’s are located on the front and Atwood/Dometic are on the back. They will have covers that need removed to gain access to the two wires connected to the heating element. Test the 120v on these wires. If there is voltage, the heating element is bad. If there is no voltage you have to test the components before it like the ECO and thermostat. If there is no voltage to those then you want to test the voltage at the relay switch if you have one (not all do). Again if there is no voltage then you need to trace back which would be the main connection to the distribution center and the breaker. A lot of times it is the heating element so if the breaker isn’t tripped then I would start there and work back as needed.
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
My RV is 30 amp. Do I need a stepdown adapter to plug into my garage outlets at home, or just an adapter to accommodate the differing prong configuration?
Hi Emily. Any adapter with a different prong configuration is going to be a step down adapter. There are many different types of adapters but they all do the same thing, change the configuration to plug it into a different adapter. Since you will be plugging into a 15 or 20 amp outlet technically they are step down adapters. Some are just labeled step down since you will be dropping down to a lower rated breaker. The simple basic ones are fine but they make “dogbone” and extension ones to make certain connections easier. I just use the simple adapter at the head of my plug and then run an extension cord to my garage.
https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Plug-Adapters/Valterra/A10-0014VP.html
Dan
RV Repair Club
Hooking up a single 12volt deep cycle battery to existing cables from rv… There are 4 small cables but the battery only had 2 small terminals and 2 large terminals… How do I properly hook them up
Hi Bobbie. Every RV has a different wire setup for the batteries so you would have to trace each one and see what it goes to so you know for sure how to hook them up. Most likely there are two negative and two positive wires but it is possible you have 3 positive and one negative. There is no color code but most of the time the red wires are positive and black or white are negative. There are times where black is positive when there are only black and white wires. Usually the positive wires will connect to a fuse or other protective device while the negative wires usually attach to the chassis for the ground connection. Unfortunately without being able to see what you have and where they go I can’t give you an exact way to connect them.
Dan
RV Repair Club
With my generator on, I am not getting power to my rooftop air conditioner. There is power to the thermostat. I checked the circuit breaker and it seems OK. Other appliances are running.
Hi John!
Great question! I will need more information from you to get your question answered. What is the year, make and model of your RV?
If you have further questions, please chat, email or call Customer Service at 1-855-706-3536.
Sincerely,
Shelley
RV Repair Club Video Membership
Here is that information
When I plug into the 50amp power box I hear the converter working and the green charging light is on. I have no power inside except the microwave light and the coffee bewer light. What could be my problem am I missing something?
Hello Gerald! Could we have the year, make, and model of your RV? Thank you!
We just purchased this RV – it’s a 1994 but in great condition with only 70K miles. We cannot locate a breaker box. The RV battery is located under the hood. Any suggestions?
Hi Peggy, have you checked with your local dealer?
i cant find where i plug my house ac into the rv
Hello Clinton,
Great question! I will need more information from you. Please resubmit your question and include the year, make and model of your RV?
Sincerely,
Joan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
Does a $20.00 (50amp to 30amp) Dog bone safely step down the 50amp power source to 30 amp power?
Thanks.
Hi James!
That’s a great question!
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Shelley
RV Repair Club Video Membership”
I do not get electric hot water to work the gas is ok and how do you change thermostats
It depends on the model water heater you have. Suburban water heaters will have the thermostats on the front behind the black cover with the two buttons on it. Behind this is the thermostat/eco combo and can easily be swapped out. On Atwood/Dometic water heaters they are on the back of the tank and much harder to get to depending on the access to the back of the tank. At the bottom of the tank you will see a black box, inside is the wiring for the 110v, 12v to a relay, the thermostat and ECO. These can easily be replaced but gaining access is the hardest part. Sometimes the tank need pulled out from the outside to gain access on these models. You can test the 110v to the heating element and 12v to the relay to test for proper operation as well. For the Suburban models you can remove the lower oval cover on the front of the tank to gain access to the heating element and can test the voltage to it there. If there is voltage to the heating element on either tank but it does not heat up, the element is burned out and will need replaced. This is something that should be tested before replacing anything since it is the most common thing to fail.
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
I want to replace the lead-acid battery with a lithium battery The RV came with a Progressive Dynamics Intelli-power 9100 converter for the lead-acid. I need to replace that with a Intelli-power 9100L for the lithium. Where is the converter located?
Hi,
Can you give me more information about your RV? Looking for the year, make and model.
Thank you,
Ticket: 33462 – Generator runs but no power to any outlets in the coach. A slight brown color around battery connection to power panel inside coach. Power cord is plugged into coach outside, reset all breakers, there is power to TV, refrigerator, thermostat, but no fan for ac, all lights work, no power to microwave, stove lights work, water pump works, no power to any outlets, gfci outlet with test button is stuck.
Everything that you mentioned that works is coming from the 12v side of the system. Everything that is not working is from the 120v side. Most likely you aren’t getting anything from the generator and the battery is what is powering the 12v system. There could be a few issue but you want to start by checking the breakers on the generator and make sure they aren’t tripped. If those are fine you want to test the voltage at the main breaker at the distribution center. If there is less than 107VAC the generator is not producing the correct voltage and most likely needs a new voltage regulator. If there is no voltage it could be the voltage regulator but could also be an issue with a transfer switch or connection between the generator and the distribution center. Most likely it is the voltage regulator but could be multiple issues so make sure to check everything else before replacing parts.
Sincerely,
Dan RV Repair Club Technical Expert
Completely Restoring ’94 Oshkosh Sahara (Kalahari) diesel pusher MH. I have installed new roof, 2
ACs, walls, floor and now I have the electrical to put together. I’m looking for advice on the electrical, tips, etc. to put together. connecting the roof ACs, Refrigerator, what is your best video to help me put electrical back together.
Hello Jesse,
Thank you for contacting us. Great question! The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members of our online community. By becoming a member, you will have access to our expert’s knowledge in RV repair and maintenance. With your membership you will also receive discounts on products and hours of Premium video content.
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I have power to the microwave ONLY on shore power 30 amp. Tester shows power to all breakers, and fuses are good. If I run the tester all around the trailer, it shows power. NOTHING inside, except, as I said the microwave. Please help
It depends on what tester you are using. If you are just using a non contact tester this only shows when a power wire is present, it does not show that the voltage is correct and there is a good neutral or ground connection. You need to use a circuit tester to make sure the outlet circuits are working properly. With so many things not working the issue is most likely the distribution panel, could be the hot buss bar or even something wrong with the neutral or ground bar as well. There could also be voltage to the breakers but not going through so you would have to test the voltage at the wires coming out of the breakers as well.
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
We are storing our RV in a covered storage facility with 30 amp power. Is it better to keep plugged in with reefer on or should we disconnect the batteries?
Hello Gerry,
Thank you for contacting us. The experts will need the make, model and the year of the RV to better assist you.
Sincerely,
Joan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
4000 ORAN GENERATOR
Hello Jean!
We’d love to help! Would you be able to elaborate on what issue you’re running into?
Thank you!
Jessica
RV Repair Club Video Membership
My Norcold Refrigerator will not start , there is lights on front panel, but I do have power to it. The refrigerator will not start, checked electrical outlet there is electric! were are ? I don’t have all day!
Hello Jeff,
That’s a good question, in order for the experts to better assist you they will need to get more information from you. Can you please provide the make, model and the year of the motor home? Then we will get the question to the experts. Or you can fill out the expert question at the bottom of the page under the Customer Service header, click on “Contact Us”.
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Sincerely,
Joan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
Not charging batteries, trips shore power breaker. I want to replace this. What is a good replacement for inverter/charger?
Ed,
There are a few companies that make them for RV systems but I always recommend the ones from WFCO. You would have to see what your current one is rated for and get an equal or larger size to accommodate your existing setup. There are also converters that are isolated from the distribution center while others are included within the unit. Here is a link with some more information on their systems.
https://wfcoelectronics.com/product-downloads/#tab-5e056fde981ed
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
RV came with one 24 series battery 🙁 we used it twice with full time AC on hooked into 50 amp shore power. No problems. RV sat for 4 weeks. Battery completely dead had to jump to put down hydraulics. Hooked up to 50 amp expecting the rv to not need battery anymore, not the case. Microwave doesn’t power and light s flickered. Changed the battery to 2 27 series batteries, still no microwave. Batteries are saying 12.2 on both. Heat is working but can not seem to get converter to fan on. Will the converter always be on? shouldn’t it be running considering the batteries are at 12.2 v and should be in the 13 range? Shore power is registering 240 properly. I changed the fuses on the converter. First time I put in a new fuse it sparked at the fuse insert which was a good sign but no life coming from the converter. Im 12 hours into the new batteries and it seems to be holding charge with tv, heat, etc on, but thinking its just because batteries are full. Still no microwave. Thank you
David,
Well the microwave runs off of 120v, not 12v so the batteries and converter do not come into play with the microwave. The microwaves plug directly into an outlet so you will want to check the outlet for voltage and check the breaker if there is none. Batteries will read around 12.6v when they are full, anything above 12.7v means they are getting a charge. Most converters these days will change the voltage rating based on how full the battery is. It is usually 13.6v for a standard charge and will drop to 12.7v range when the batteries are full. If the batteries are reading less than 12.7v when plugged into shore power, the converter is not sending a charge to the batteries. There could be an inline fuse, fuse at the main panel, disconnect switch or a problem with the connections to the battery. There could also be a chance of the converter not working properly as well. You would have to test the output voltage from the converter when plugged into shore to know for sure it is working properly. If it is, then you will have to trace where the connection is being lost to the batteries. Most of the time the issue is a bad connection or inline fuse that stops the batteries from getting a charge but testing the voltage at the converter is the only way of knowing for sure.
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
Can you run the engine and propane generator at same time and not do damage to any component in the RV? How long can you run both at same time?
Michael,
The engine isn’t used to power anything inside of the RV except for charging the batteries. The generator is used to power the 120v system so running both at the same time with not effect anything. How long they run depends on how much fuel you have. Since all tanks and fuel consumption is different it is hard to tell how long it would last. The more things you run off of the generator the faster you will run out of fuel. If you just have a few things running, it will last longer.
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
Converter and residential refrigerator does not work when traveling.
William,
I assume you are talking about the inverter and not the converter. Inverters are used to take 12v and make it 120v, whereas converters take 120v and make it 12v. The inverter should be hooked up directly to the batteries. You will have to check the batteries, connections and look for any in-line fuses or switches to see if there is something that needs to be turned on. The best thing to do first is check the 12v battery to the inverter. If there is voltage there, the problem is with the inverter. If there is no voltage, the problem is with the batteries or connections to them. If the inverter is getting voltage and not turning on you will have to check with the owners manual to see if there is a reset switch or something else that can be done. Most inverters are not repairable, if there is a problem with it most likely it will have to be replaced. You have to make sure the check the voltage before replacing anything. Make sure the voltage is higher than 11v as well. The inverter will not operate with anything lower than 10.5v and if the voltage is that low it won’t run for long either. Most of the time this happens from a blown fuse due to low voltage so make sure to look for a fuse or breaker switch inline to the battery.
Sincerely,
DanRV Repair Club Technical Expert
Trying to understand the systems–first time owner
I want to be able to connect my 30 amp to friends household power…what adapter do I need…I can’t seem to find it in the local hardware stores.
Hi Dorothy!
That’s a great question! Would you be able to provide the year, make, and model of your RV? Then I will pass this along to our expert!
Sincerely,
Jessica
RV Repair Club Video Membership
Try Walmart in their RV section or a RV center
When using an adapter to connect a 30 amp shore cord to a 50 amp receptacle will I only be able to draw 25 amps or are both legs of a 50 amp receptacle fused for 50 amps?
Gregory,
On a 50amp receptacle each leg is actually rated for 50amps each. So technically there is 100amps total just split between the legs. When you use a 30amp adapter into a 50amp receptacle, you technically have 50amps of service going to the RV. Since your RV is only rated for 30amps this is all you will be able to use though. You won’t be able to utilize the full 50amps but you will still be able to use the full 30 you are rated for.
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
What would cause our main power cord to explode open . Now when we plug it in it trips circuts in the house and garage.
Hey Judy,
That’s a fantastic question!
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Sincerely,
Jessica
RV Repair Club Video Membership
I have a direct short I have fixed two thirds of the problem . I am trying to locate the fault. Short. I am toning out the circuits. can’t pinpoint location. any Suggestions ? I have replaced GCFI and circuit to top of GCFI is good. bottom shorted. I have a schematic on the layout yet it is not as per print. I have isolated each receptacle and have eliminated some runs. I have one of the three that I can’t locate. Went through many boxes and some hot and some not. Can’t trace where the next line goes. Any suggestion’s?
Chuck,
Yeah these can be tough sometimes. Make sure you have checked all of the outlets, there can be some hidden on lower sides of cabinets and above the sinks and make sure to check the outside outlets and in the outside kitchen if there is one on your RV. Also check behind the TV. There are some RV’s that use a non-metallic splice kit and I have seen these come apart and fail. These don’t have to be listed and don’t have to have an access point like a junction box. So this makes knowing and finding these difficult. They are typically used by the slide out wiring or behind the distribution center. It is something to keep in mind when searching around.
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
They make tracers that you can follow the circuit with through the wall. You can find where the power ends (open)
At about 17-18 yrs I noticed indications of leakage inside and some cracks on the roof. I had the rubber roof replaced which seemed to solve the issue. Due to illnesses in the family the MH was neglected and sat for many years in the sun. Several months ago I noticed bubbles on the drivers side of the fiberglass along with 3 cracks. One leading from the corner of fridge cover up to a window. Another diagonally at the opposite corner of the fridge cover down to the heater cover and the third coming from the rear water heater cover down to just above the storage bins. I’ve had several guesstimates & been told that it would be best to replace the side which can run me anywhere from $7 up to 15K. Motorhome not worth that much.
I know what I am asking is not a remedy but a band aid fix only. How can I repair the cracks. One of the MH repair shops said to use Liquid Nails to “glue” the cracks to the frame and a product called Sikaflex to waterproof the cracks. Does this sound like a good solution for now. I’m not sure how I would apply pressure to the cracks once glued allowing it to dry. I don’t think they make clamps big enough to go around the motor home.
We’ve had the MH parked beside the house and used as a place to stay when the kids drop by from out of state.
Thank you for any expert opinions you may have.
David,
The best thing for the cracks is a fiberglass repair kit. This is be the most secure and waterproof repair. You want to start by drilling small holes at the ends of the cracks, this will help prevent them from expanding. You then take a die grinder and bevel the cracks to make a valley towards the opening. You can then apply the fiberglass over the area and mix the resign and put it on the fabric. Let it fully cure, at least a day. You then sand down the edges until it is flush with the wall. You can then go over the area with a body filler, let dry and sand and then paint to match. If you don’t want it to look perfect I would still just do the fiberglass resign, the rest is more aesthetics. The liquid nail might be an OK fix of you never plan on traveling anywhere but I would be more concerned about how long it would last. The fiberglass would last a lot longer and is a stronger hold. I will post a link below to the fiberglass repair kit I am talking about, it can be found at most hardware and auto parts stores.
I hope this helps!
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/bondo-fiberglass-resin-repair-kit-1-2-pint-us-can-420/7100973-p?c3ch=PLA&c3nid=7100973-P&adtype=pla&product_channel=local&gclid=CjwKCAjwm4rqBRBUEiwAwaWjjOmQxdHdEiHvkQVwXkDJcC5cOephDbILeI-3L-sIlEa695_veCoLPxoCRRwQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
When Plugged in to 110 volts my domestic batteries are over charging and boiling over. is this a faulty Interface unit or does it have anything to do with the in coming amps, its only 110 volts?
Dear Alex,
Thank you for your patience. In response to your question-
This is usually an indicator that you have a bad battery. It could be the converter but a lot of times it is actually the battery is the issue. The converter reads the battery when it is charging it and changes the charge rate based on what it is senses. If it senses the battery is really low it will send a higher voltage charge and if the battery is not accepting the charge it will stay at a high voltage charge and won’t stop. The battery will boil more water at the high voltage charge so when this happens all of the water can boil out. There is a chance it is the converter not sensing the battery properly but most of the time it is the battery itself. I would take the battery to have it tested to be sure. They test batteries for free at most auto parts stores. I hope this helps!
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
Can’t find the converter switch
Dear Jack,
Thank you for your patience. In response to your question-
I am not sure what switch you are talking about exactly. Some older systems had a switch to change over the converter from battery operation to transformer but on newer RV’s, it combines them to operate at the same time and there is no switch needed. It really depends on the year of your RV and what kind of power distribution it has. If there is a switch, it will usually be in sight. By the door, front cab on the dash or by the power distribution center. The switch would indicate what position it needs to be in for certain operations, it shouldn’t be a blank switch. If you still have the owners manual or able to get it from the manufacture, it should indicate how the system works and what switches you might have. Sorry I can’t give you and exact location, every RV is different. I hope this information was helpful!
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club
When plugged in to shore power will it charge my starting battery also?
Hello Doug,
Normally it does not. The converter will send a charge to the house batteries but the chassis battery is usually not connected to the house batteries unless the engine is on. The chassis battery usually has an isolation switch connected to the ignition system so when the engine is running the switch is engaged to charge the house batteries and chassis battery from the alternator when driving down the road. When the engine is off the switch turns off to prevent the chassis battery from draining when the house batteries are in use, this prevents you from being stranded while camping. Some RV’s have a selector switch that can be turned on to charge the chassis battery when plugged into an outlet, but this is more rare. You would have to check the owners manual of your RV and see if there is a switch for this situation. But typically, the chassis battery does not get a charge when plugged into shore power.
I hope this helps!
Dan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
Wanting to wire a shore line directly to rv. It is pre wired for genarator has a j box with black white green wires also a bare copper ground. Want to use a 30 amp pig tail. Can’t get a wire diagram from GD it looks as if I need to just go color to color and tie the ground wire off the genarator to the coach ground
Hello Ken,
If the trailer is set up to have a 30 amp shore originally, the generator set up should be for a 4000w generator and should only have one hot wire. The black is hot, white is neutral, green is ground. The green and bare wire are both grounds, one should connect to the junction box itself to keep the box grounded but they will both connect to the ground together on the plug you want to install. Those pre wired cables on the trailer should go to a transfer switch, but if they do not you have to make sure to never plug in the original shore and the new one at the same time. This will damage the system. You also have to keep in mind that the wires are meant to connect directly to a generator. When tying in a plug you are essentially connected to an extension cord since the wires are now traveling through the plug and then the wires into the system. The are meant to get direct power from the generator. You may experience a little voltage drop so make sure you have good connections and be mindful of overloading the system. The colors on the cord should be the same as the wires in the box to prevent confusion.
I hope this was helpful!
Dan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
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The GF switch not working and either are the outlets …and making humming noise in the front of the RV …this is a 2016 Catalina Coachmen ..How or what do i need to do fix it
Hi Lisa,
If none of the outlets are working I would check the power distribution center. You could have loose connections or the buss bar became disconnected from the breakers. You will usually get a humming noise from the area at the converter but the converter does not power the 120v side. I would check the chassis ground, a lot of times it is located by the front near the battery. If this is loose or broken, you can be getting a humming noise from the electricity trying to get a good connection. You would have to trace the sound to find out what it is. I would get someone with some electrical know how to help you. Don’t check or touch wires when plugged into an outlet. Make sure the power is off when checking the distribution center. The distribution center is the best place to start tracing electrical issues.
Thanks,
Dan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
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Having problems with the BCC. Engine alternator is not charging the coach batteries. I would like to get a schematic of the BCC and associated components. Could you help me find this?
Hello Ronnie,
You would have to search for the make and model of your control center. There are different ones out there and sometimes there is access to the schematics but you would have to know all of the information on yours. I know a website that sells the control centers and they have schematics listed, I will provide the link below to one of theirs. Have you tested the voltage coming out of the alternator? This would be the first thing to check before the control center. https://pdxrvwholesale.com/products/battery-control-center-by-rv-custom-products-130325
Thanks,
Dan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
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CAN YOU RUN YOUR FRIDGE DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD.
Hello,
If you have a standard RV fridge with the gas option you are able to run it on propane while driving down the road. You just have to be careful with this since there is an open flame in the exterior compartment of the fridge. You can not pull up to a gas pump with the fridge on, you would have to pull off to the side before entering a gas station and turn off the fridge. You also have to be careful with local laws of where you are and their tunnels, you can’t have open propane containers in many tunnels and you will usually see signs saying “no open lp containers”. You would then have to pull over, turn off the gas, drive through, open the gas and restart the fridge. You also want to be careful as having open lp containers, you are now at risk to an open gas leak while traveling. You could run over a branch that nicked a gas line or something came loose inside while traveling and you wouldn’t know since you aren’t in the RV to smell the gas or hear the alarm. This is highly unlikely to happen but it is something to consider. You also have to remember the fridge has to be as level as possible when running. During travel is fine since it moves around a lot, but if you stop at an incline for more than an hour the fridge has to be turned off to prevent damage to the cooling unit. So at rest areas or stopping to see sites, make sure to park on level ground or you will have to turn off the fridge.
I hope this information was useful!
Dan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
I was told that you can run power without the propane tanks, The propane tanks run about 70 bucks a week so how would I run power and heat without propane tanks
Hi Kurt,
Dan Anderson (RVRC)
Yesterday 20:46
The only reason you would need propane to run power is if you were using a propane generator. If your shore cord is plugged into an outlet, you are running off of the electricity coming from the outlet. Propane is only used on gas appliances like the stove, oven and furnace. The water heater and fridge can run on propane, but many have the option for running on electric when plugged into an outlet. It depends on the model of water heater and fridge. Running heat through the furnace does require propane and when it is really cold outside, you will go through a lot of propane. When it is really cold out, some people supplement heat with other heat sources in the RV to help bring down the use of propane. Some of which would be catalytic and radiator heaters. Some air conditioners have a heat pump or heat strip to where you can have heat run off of electric, but they only work well for warming up a bit while the gas furnace is better to use when it is really cold outside. Again, the heat pump and strip are only on certain model air conditioners, most don’t have them. If you are not using the furnace or other gas appliances but still are having to fill up the propane tanks, I would check for a leak in the system because you should not be losing any gas when they aren’t being used. If you weren’t using any of the gas appliances, you would be fine not having propane tanks while being plugged into an outlet. You only need the propane to operate the gas fueled sources.
I hope this helps!
Dan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
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How can I tell if my on-board charger is working correctly
Hello,
Dan Anderson (RVRC)
Yesterday 20:57
The best way to tell is to check the voltage at the house batteries. When plugged into an outlet, take a multimeter and set it to VDC and check the terminals. If it is above 12.6VDC, then it is usually good. This is different will all models and charge modes. Most will send out about 13.6VDC to the batteries when charging, but once they are charged it will drop to around 13.2VDC or lower. If the battery is very low or the charger is doing an equalizing charge, it can send out closer to 16VDC. A fully charged battery reads 12.6VDC so if you are reading anything less than that when plugged into an outlet, there is something wrong with the charger. A simple but not always accurate check is to check the monitoring panel (if one is present). If the battery lights up full or on the “C” indicator this usually tells you there is more than 12.6VDC coming from the battery which means it is getting a charge.
I hope this was helpful!
Dan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
We have our RV in shop and have nothing on but out of the blue the radio comes on. We’ve even undid rv battery?
Hello Mardi,
I have seen many RV’s over the years have radios turn on by themselves, this is due to an internal failure on the radio itself. It does need power to turn on though. If the RV is not plugged and the battery disconnected, there should not be any other power source to the radio. Do you have the connections on the battery terminals disconnected? Or are you using a disconnect switch? If just a switch, the switch may be bad and still allowing voltage through. If the terminals are disconnected, there might be another battery inline at another location?
I hope this helps,
Dan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
I have a led light on in cicut panel Zone 4. Changed fuse and light is still on. Checked all out let’s for power and they are ok. The only thing not working is carbon monoxide unit would this be on circuit by itself
Hello David,
Dan Anderson (RVRC)
Yesterday 21:23
I have seen the carbon monoxide detector on it’s own circuit many times. I believe they do this to limit the failure rate. Less things on the circuit to cause issues to prevent the detector from working. The light on the panel is there to indicate the loss of power to a circuit. Have you tested the fuses? There could be a few problems causing this. If the fuses keep blowing, there is a bad short in the system. Either the CO detector is shorted and blowing the fuses or there is a problem in the wiring. If the fuses are fine but the light is still on and nothing is getting power, the fuse panel is broken and would need replaced. This has happened before but a wire shortage or failed component in the system is most likely the cause. You can always remove the detector and disconnect the wires and plug the fuse back in. If the light now goes away, then you know the detector was causing the issue. If the light is still on, you would have to check the rest of the wiring and the fuse panel.
I hope this was helpful!
Dan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
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I had a water line that busted underneath the stove. This line goes to the sink. It busted at night and sprayed water on the distribution panel. Not sure how long this was wet but I had power on the trailer at the time. I fix the line dried everything out but now half of the distribution panel seems to not work with 120V system. On 12 volt, what the battery from the front, I have my lights only working. If I disconnect the battery in front, and try to use 120 volt only, I only have the wall plugs in the microwave working. I have no lights and I have no power for the air conditioner. I saw a few resistors that look like they had rusted off or the distribution panel. Can the panel be repaired or does it have to be replaced?
Hello Charles,
Most of the time the panel is best to be replaced. I have heard of people fixing things themselves on the boards but unless you know exactly how to do it and what parts need to be replaced, it is better to replace the whole board. Most service shops don’t repair them, some computer shops might though. In my opinion when things have been water logged and are already showing signs of damage it is best to replace because even if you fix what you see now other problems could turn up later. As for the 120v system and other connections, I would inspect the ground bar and all of the other connections and make sure nothing was rusted. If water made it’s way into any of the breakers, those might need replaced as well. Check your GFCI. A lot of things could be tied into the GFCI and if water got on those connections when something was on, it could have tripped and turned off the circuit. The 120v system doesn’t go into a board. The shore cord wires go into a buss bar and then the power is sent to the breakers and then to the circuits. If there is a power loss, it will be the connections or the breakers or something wrong in the circuit like the GFCI.
I hope this was helpful!
Dan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
Can I hook up a 15 amp shore cord to the RV to charge the batteries which has 50 amp power chord? Would it cause any harm if I did?
Hi Guido,
If that is all you are using it for that is fine. The charger can sometimes get up to 10 amps if the battery is really low and needs a fast charge but most of the time it will be 2 amps or less depending on the stage of the charge. This is different for all chargers, some are single stage while there are some that are 3 stage. But as long as you aren’t using a lot of other things inside the RV it would be fine to have it on that adapter.
I hope this helps!
Dan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
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I need to know where the wiring and fuse is for my passenger power seat
Hello,
The wires for the seat are going to be under the seat. They then go to the fuse panel with the rest of the dashboard and front console components. I have seen some with in line fuses just under the seat. The fuse panel can be located in the chassis owners manual. They are in different locations for all chassis. Some manufactures offer online wire diagrams, Winnebago does this. You may be able to get others by contacting the manufacture of your RV.
I’m sorry I can’t give you an exact location but I hope this helps!
Dan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
Not geetting power from shoreline .
Hi Brian,
It depends on what kind of shore cord you have, if you have the kind that pulls out of the wall it is typically connected directly to the power distribution center. You would have to check the voltage coming into the main breaker. If there is voltage at the power pedestal and nothing coming in, there could be a break in the cord wiring and would need replaced. If your shore chord attaches to the outside of the wall, check for voltage coming from just the cord itself when plugged into the pedestal and not the camper. If that is fine, plug it into the camper and check voltage at the breaker, if not voltage at the breaker than the outside wall connection is either bad or has bad connections on the rear side of it. If there is no access inside to the back of the shore connection, you will have to pull it off the wall from the outside and check the connections. The first thing to really do is make sure power is being sent to the cord. If using an adapter or extension cord, the problem could lie in there. The best thing to do is trace the voltage going through the unit to try and track down the problem.
I hope this helps!
Dan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
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50 amp breaker tripping randomly
When I start engine it shuts off in a few minutes and then no key or dash power. Could it be my ignition lockout relay?
Hello,
To provide more specific troubleshooting information on your ignition issue, we need the make, model, and year of your rig or tow vehicle? Also, will it attempt to start after letting it sit for a period of time? Or is it in shut down now with no start?
Thanks,
David
RV Repair Club Video Membership
How to replace the main door
How to stop the slide out from jumping up and down while going in or out. This is cable type
Hello Billy,
I would start by inspecting the cables and chain inside access by taking off the upper decorative frame of the room. There you will find the motor, chains, pulleys, and cables. If it’s sagging below factory recommendations, it will jump at it pulls up the tension and catches up. Attached is the service manual from the BAL Accuslide. Also check underneath the inside and outside to make sure the rollers are moving freely and you don’t have anything obstructing from the inside.
Thanks,
David
RV Repair Club Video Membership
Should the 120 volt be keeping my main battery (engine) charged? I was told to leave it switched on, but after about a month, found it dead. Do we have something draining itself? We live in the motorhome.
Hi Maryann. The chassis battery only gets a charge when the switch is on to activate the connection. Most of the time this switch is off, really only needs to be on when the battery needs a charge or you need to use the chassis battery to operate a slide or something. This is not the battery disconnect switch either, that is to disconnect the house battery from the system to prevent draining during storage. The switch to the chassis battery is typically labeled differently, sometimes “aux” or “starter battery”. With this switch on it should be getting a charge when plugged into shore power. The only reason for it to drain is if the charging system isn’t working properly, There could be an issue with the switch as well. You will want to make sure you are plugged into shore power and then test the voltage at the battery. It should be around 13.6vdc or higher when getting a charge. If it is lower there is an issue with the system. If it is getting a charge then maybe the battery isn’t holding voltage. If there isn’t a charge I would first start by checking the fuses at the main power center by the breakers. There will be a fuse for the charge line. If that is fine you will then have to trace the voltage to see where it is lost.
Dan
RV Repair Club
If, when using your air conditioner and another high usage appliance such as a toaster, you trip a breaker on the campground pedestal, can you cause damage to your RV or its appliances. What about the RV circuit breaker or fuse.
Hello Jerome,
You typically will not cause damage to your RV as the voltage is shut off when the shoreline breaker trips. What can happen is when you are drawing more than 30 amps before the breaker trips, your shoreline cord can get hot if you are not using a dedicated 30 amp cord, so make sure if you are using an extension cord, it is rated for your power!
Thanks,
David RVRC Video Membership
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Can to plug your pop up air conditioner into your power converter to do away with air cord running outside directly to shore power?
Hello James,
Here’s what the experts had to say about your question:
It wouldn’t plug into the power converter, it would need to connect to a breaker circuit. You should be able to install an outlet on the back of the power center and run the AC power cord to this outlet. This is of course if you are able to install a new breaker, you might not be able to. Many popups run the cord outside because there is no room on the panel or because it was hard to open and close the popup with the wiring in place. Many are equipped like these because of reasons like that. If you are able to find a safe way to run the wires inside and then connect to a circuit it should be fine. You just have to make sure you have a circuit available to accommodate the wiring.
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert