120-Volt Electrical Basics: Part 1

It is important to understand the basics of 120-volt power and how it supplies components in your RV. The power pedestal or “Shoreline Power” at the campground typically has three connections for 50 amp, 30 amp, and 15 amp power.

The 50 amp plug in is for larger coaches to supply 240 volts, 120 volts per “leg” to supply power for two roof air conditioners and other appliances.

The 30 amp plug provides 120-volt power limited to 30 amps so typically only one roof air conditioner can be use at a time. The 15 amp plug in is similar to a residential outlet and is only used for smaller trailers.

The 120-volt shoreline power comes into your rig to the distribution center which has a main breaker and then circuit breakers for 120-volt appliances, outlets, and the converter.

Each circuit breaker should be labeled with the component it powers and the amp capacity of the breaker. Power is supplied from the distribution center to the appliances and outlets by an electrical commonly referred to as Romex that has conductors or wires inside a protective sheeting known as the cable. For most appliances there would be three wires, hot, neutral, and ground very similar to the electrical connection in your home.

Any outlet located close to a water source such as the kitchen sink, bathroom sink and shower, or outside outlet must be protected by a ground fault circuit interrupter or GFCI. This outlet is a device that shuts off an electric power circuit when it detects that current is flowing in an unintended path such as through water or a person. It is used to reduce the risk of electric shock, which can cause the heart to stop or cause burns. They can also prevent some fires, like when a live wire touches a metal conduit.

Typically RV manufactures will use the recognized GFCI outlet with test/reset buttons in one location, then another Romex wire is connected to that same GFCI outlet on the second set of terminals and is routed to other outlets which is called “ganged” as there could be several outlets connected in this same fashion just like the outlets in your garage or living room of your home. If you have a GFCI outlet at the first connection, all other outlets on the circuit are protected by the GFCI but will usually not have the test/reset button and are known as “dummy plates”. They should have a GFCI Protected sticker on them, but that does not always stay on.

This means you could have one or two GFCI test/reset outlets on different circuits and if that outlets trips, or becomes defective, the other outlets on that “gang” or circuit will not get power. It’s a good idea to test which outlets are on what GFCI main outlet. Get a non-contact voltage tester from any home improvement store and press the test button on the GFCI outlet. Now use the non-contact voltage tester to verify what outlets do not have power. These will be connected or “ganged” to that outlet.

Back to the distribution panel, another 120-volt power supply goes to the converter or battery charger which also has it’s own circuit breakers. This provides a 12-volt charge to the deep cycle house batteries as they become depleted and will also have an amp draw that you will need to be aware of if you are on a 15 amp or 30 amp shoreline source. Newer models can draw up to 9 amps to provide more charging power but does limit the use of other appliances on the lower amp systems.

That is an overview of the 120-volt electrical system in your RV. It is similar to the set up in your home, with just a few differences, and the addition of a 12-volt converter thrown into the mix. Coming up next, we’ll learn to understand the power power requirements of your rig, and how to manage it!

Discussion
  • (will not be published)
  • If your questions pertains to a specific component or appliance, please fill out the info below:

52 Responses to “120-Volt Electrical Basics: Part 1”
  1. raph

    RV Make: holiday rambler, RV Model: ambasador, RV Year: 2001

    how do you change head light lens

    Reply
    • paul light

      RV Make: thor, RV Model: windsport, RV Year: 2001, Brand: dewald hydraulic, Model Number: ser. 11320

      slide out rooms

      Reply
  2. Jerome Imbriani4

    RV Make: Keystone, RV Model: Springdale SP287RB18, RV Year: 2018

    If, when using your air conditioner and another high usage appliance such as a toaster, you trip a breaker on the campground pedestal, can you cause damage to your RV or its appliances. What about the RV circuit breaker or fuse.

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hello Jerome,

      You typically will not cause damage to your RV as the voltage is shut off when the shoreline breaker trips. What can happen is when you are drawing more than 30 amps before the breaker trips, your shoreline cord can get hot if you are not using a dedicated 30 amp cord, so make sure if you are using an extension cord, it is rated for your power!

      Thanks,
      David RVRC Video Membership

      Reply
  3. Billy

    RV Make: Cougar, RV Model: High Country, RV Year: 2013

    How to stop the slide out from jumping up and down while going in or out. This is cable type

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hello Billy,

      I would start by inspecting the cables and chain inside access by taking off the upper decorative frame of the room. There you will find the motor, chains, pulleys, and cables. If it’s sagging below factory recommendations, it will jump at it pulls up the tension and catches up. Attached is the service manual from the BAL Accuslide. Also check underneath the inside and outside to make sure the rollers are moving freely and you don’t have anything obstructing from the inside.

      Thanks,
      David
      RV Repair Club Video Membership

      Reply
  4. gfhetherington

    RV Make: Forest River, RV Model: Rockwood Class C, RV Year: 1993

    How to replace the main door

    Reply
  5. dlfreeman17

    RV Make: Thor, RV Model: Hurricane, RV Year: 2004, Brand: Intellitec, Model Number: 00-00524-400

    When I start engine it shuts off in a few minutes and then no key or dash power. Could it be my ignition lockout relay?

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hello,

      To provide more specific troubleshooting information on your ignition issue, we need the make, model, and year of your rig or tow vehicle? Also, will it attempt to start after letting it sit for a period of time? Or is it in shut down now with no start?

      Thanks,

      David
      RV Repair Club Video Membership

      Reply
  6. Brian

    RV Make: 91 Fleetwood, RV Model: Pace arrow, RV Year: 91

    Not geetting power from shoreline .

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi Brian,

      It depends on what kind of shore cord you have, if you have the kind that pulls out of the wall it is typically connected directly to the power distribution center. You would have to check the voltage coming into the main breaker. If there is voltage at the power pedestal and nothing coming in, there could be a break in the cord wiring and would need replaced. If your shore chord attaches to the outside of the wall, check for voltage coming from just the cord itself when plugged into the pedestal and not the camper. If that is fine, plug it into the camper and check voltage at the breaker, if not voltage at the breaker than the outside wall connection is either bad or has bad connections on the rear side of it. If there is no access inside to the back of the shore connection, you will have to pull it off the wall from the outside and check the connections. The first thing to really do is make sure power is being sent to the cord. If using an adapter or extension cord, the problem could lie in there. The best thing to do is trace the voltage going through the unit to try and track down the problem.

      I hope this helps!

      Dan
      RV Repair Club Video Membership

      We’d love to have you be a part of our community. We are convinced you will enjoy the benefits of becoming a member and having access to the best instructional how to videos and professional tips. We would like to offer you a special promotion for your first-year membership.
      https://go.rvrepairclub.com/C14366

      Reply
  7. shellypatrick1

    RV Make: Coachman , RV Model: Encore , RV Year: 2006

    I need to know where the wiring and fuse is for my passenger power seat

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hello,

      The wires for the seat are going to be under the seat. They then go to the fuse panel with the rest of the dashboard and front console components. I have seen some with in line fuses just under the seat. The fuse panel can be located in the chassis owners manual. They are in different locations for all chassis. Some manufactures offer online wire diagrams, Winnebago does this. You may be able to get others by contacting the manufacture of your RV.

      I’m sorry I can’t give you an exact location but I hope this helps!

      Dan
      RV Repair Club Video Membership

      Reply
  8. Guido Drogemuller

    RV Make: Tiffin, RV Model: Phaeton 40AH , RV Year: 2019

    Can I hook up a 15 amp shore cord to the RV to charge the batteries which has 50 amp power chord? Would it cause any harm if I did?

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi Guido,

      If that is all you are using it for that is fine. The charger can sometimes get up to 10 amps if the battery is really low and needs a fast charge but most of the time it will be 2 amps or less depending on the stage of the charge. This is different for all chargers, some are single stage while there are some that are 3 stage. But as long as you aren’t using a lot of other things inside the RV it would be fine to have it on that adapter.

      I hope this helps!

      Dan
      RV Repair Club Video Membership

      We’d love to have you be a part of our community. We are convinced you will enjoy the benefits of becoming a member and having access to the best instructional how to videos and professional tips. We would like to offer you a special promotion for your first-year membership.
      https://go.rvrepairclub.com/C15286

      Reply
  9. Charles

    RV Make: Forest River, RV Model: Surveyor, RV Year: 2004

    I had a water line that busted underneath the stove. This line goes to the sink. It busted at night and sprayed water on the distribution panel. Not sure how long this was wet but I had power on the trailer at the time. I fix the line dried everything out but now half of the distribution panel seems to not work with 120V system. On 12 volt, what the battery from the front, I have my lights only working. If I disconnect the battery in front, and try to use 120 volt only, I only have the wall plugs in the microwave working. I have no lights and I have no power for the air conditioner. I saw a few resistors that look like they had rusted off or the distribution panel. Can the panel be repaired or does it have to be replaced?

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hello Charles,

      Most of the time the panel is best to be replaced. I have heard of people fixing things themselves on the boards but unless you know exactly how to do it and what parts need to be replaced, it is better to replace the whole board. Most service shops don’t repair them, some computer shops might though. In my opinion when things have been water logged and are already showing signs of damage it is best to replace because even if you fix what you see now other problems could turn up later. As for the 120v system and other connections, I would inspect the ground bar and all of the other connections and make sure nothing was rusted. If water made it’s way into any of the breakers, those might need replaced as well. Check your GFCI. A lot of things could be tied into the GFCI and if water got on those connections when something was on, it could have tripped and turned off the circuit. The 120v system doesn’t go into a board. The shore cord wires go into a buss bar and then the power is sent to the breakers and then to the circuits. If there is a power loss, it will be the connections or the breakers or something wrong in the circuit like the GFCI.

      I hope this was helpful!

      Dan
      RV Repair Club Video Membership

      Reply
  10. David Baldwin

    RV Make: Montana, RV Model: High Country, RV Year: 2018

    I have a led light on in cicut panel Zone 4. Changed fuse and light is still on. Checked all out let’s for power and they are ok. The only thing not working is carbon monoxide unit would this be on circuit by itself

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hello David,

      Dan Anderson (RVRC)
      Yesterday 21:23

      I have seen the carbon monoxide detector on it’s own circuit many times. I believe they do this to limit the failure rate. Less things on the circuit to cause issues to prevent the detector from working. The light on the panel is there to indicate the loss of power to a circuit. Have you tested the fuses? There could be a few problems causing this. If the fuses keep blowing, there is a bad short in the system. Either the CO detector is shorted and blowing the fuses or there is a problem in the wiring. If the fuses are fine but the light is still on and nothing is getting power, the fuse panel is broken and would need replaced. This has happened before but a wire shortage or failed component in the system is most likely the cause. You can always remove the detector and disconnect the wires and plug the fuse back in. If the light now goes away, then you know the detector was causing the issue. If the light is still on, you would have to check the rest of the wiring and the fuse panel.

      I hope this was helpful!

      Dan
      RV Repair Club Video Membership

      We apologize for any inconvenience this has caused! I do want to assure you that are website is safe and secure, which is indicated with the https. The issue was caused by a link within the email that is creating the false positive error within your anti-virus software We are working on fixing the issue. When you receive your e-newsletter this week, please click on any of the items in the e-newsletter and the issue should clear.
      https://go.rvrepairclub.com/C15286

      Reply
  11. Mardi

    RV Make: Jayco, RV Model: Grey, RV Year: 2015

    We have our RV in shop and have nothing on but out of the blue the radio comes on. We’ve even undid rv battery?

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hello Mardi,

      I have seen many RV’s over the years have radios turn on by themselves, this is due to an internal failure on the radio itself. It does need power to turn on though. If the RV is not plugged and the battery disconnected, there should not be any other power source to the radio. Do you have the connections on the battery terminals disconnected? Or are you using a disconnect switch? If just a switch, the switch may be bad and still allowing voltage through. If the terminals are disconnected, there might be another battery inline at another location?

      I hope this helps,

      Dan
      RV Repair Club Video Membership

      Reply
  12. oppelt4561

    RV Make: Fleetwood, RV Model: Pace Arrow Vision, RV Year: 2000

    How can I tell if my on-board charger is working correctly

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hello,

      Dan Anderson (RVRC)
      Yesterday 20:57

      The best way to tell is to check the voltage at the house batteries. When plugged into an outlet, take a multimeter and set it to VDC and check the terminals. If it is above 12.6VDC, then it is usually good. This is different will all models and charge modes. Most will send out about 13.6VDC to the batteries when charging, but once they are charged it will drop to around 13.2VDC or lower. If the battery is very low or the charger is doing an equalizing charge, it can send out closer to 16VDC. A fully charged battery reads 12.6VDC so if you are reading anything less than that when plugged into an outlet, there is something wrong with the charger. A simple but not always accurate check is to check the monitoring panel (if one is present). If the battery lights up full or on the “C” indicator this usually tells you there is more than 12.6VDC coming from the battery which means it is getting a charge.

      I hope this was helpful!

      Dan
      RV Repair Club Video Membership

      Reply
  13. Kurt Chuckulnaskit

    RV Make: Heartland 4270, RV Model: Cyclone, RV Year: 2018

    I was told that you can run power without the propane tanks, The propane tanks run about 70 bucks a week so how would I run power and heat without propane tanks

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi Kurt,

      Dan Anderson (RVRC)
      Yesterday 20:46

      The only reason you would need propane to run power is if you were using a propane generator. If your shore cord is plugged into an outlet, you are running off of the electricity coming from the outlet. Propane is only used on gas appliances like the stove, oven and furnace. The water heater and fridge can run on propane, but many have the option for running on electric when plugged into an outlet. It depends on the model of water heater and fridge. Running heat through the furnace does require propane and when it is really cold outside, you will go through a lot of propane. When it is really cold out, some people supplement heat with other heat sources in the RV to help bring down the use of propane. Some of which would be catalytic and radiator heaters. Some air conditioners have a heat pump or heat strip to where you can have heat run off of electric, but they only work well for warming up a bit while the gas furnace is better to use when it is really cold outside. Again, the heat pump and strip are only on certain model air conditioners, most don’t have them. If you are not using the furnace or other gas appliances but still are having to fill up the propane tanks, I would check for a leak in the system because you should not be losing any gas when they aren’t being used. If you weren’t using any of the gas appliances, you would be fine not having propane tanks while being plugged into an outlet. You only need the propane to operate the gas fueled sources.

      I hope this helps!

      Dan
      RV Repair Club Video Membership

      We’d love to have you be a part of our community. We are convinced you will enjoy the benefits of becoming a member and having access to the best instructional how to videos and professional tips. We would like to offer you a special promotion for your first-year membership.
      https://go.rvrepairclub.com/C15286

      Reply
  14. billybiker451

    RV Make: THOR, RV Model: FREEDOM ELITE 26HE, RV Year: 2018, Brand: NORCOLD, Model Number: REFRIDGE

    CAN YOU RUN YOUR FRIDGE DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD.

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hello,

      If you have a standard RV fridge with the gas option you are able to run it on propane while driving down the road. You just have to be careful with this since there is an open flame in the exterior compartment of the fridge. You can not pull up to a gas pump with the fridge on, you would have to pull off to the side before entering a gas station and turn off the fridge. You also have to be careful with local laws of where you are and their tunnels, you can’t have open propane containers in many tunnels and you will usually see signs saying “no open lp containers”. You would then have to pull over, turn off the gas, drive through, open the gas and restart the fridge. You also want to be careful as having open lp containers, you are now at risk to an open gas leak while traveling. You could run over a branch that nicked a gas line or something came loose inside while traveling and you wouldn’t know since you aren’t in the RV to smell the gas or hear the alarm. This is highly unlikely to happen but it is something to consider. You also have to remember the fridge has to be as level as possible when running. During travel is fine since it moves around a lot, but if you stop at an incline for more than an hour the fridge has to be turned off to prevent damage to the cooling unit. So at rest areas or stopping to see sites, make sure to park on level ground or you will have to turn off the fridge.

      I hope this information was useful!

      Dan
      RV Repair Club Video Membership

      Reply
  15. Ronnie L McGraw

    RV Make: Damon, RV Model: Intruder, RV Year: 2003

    Having problems with the BCC. Engine alternator is not charging the coach batteries. I would like to get a schematic of the BCC and associated components. Could you help me find this?

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hello Ronnie,

      You would have to search for the make and model of your control center. There are different ones out there and sometimes there is access to the schematics but you would have to know all of the information on yours. I know a website that sells the control centers and they have schematics listed, I will provide the link below to one of theirs. Have you tested the voltage coming out of the alternator? This would be the first thing to check before the control center. https://pdxrvwholesale.com/products/battery-control-center-by-rv-custom-products-130325

      Thanks,

      Dan
      RV Repair Club Video Membership

      We’d love to have you be a part of our community. We are convinced you will enjoy the benefits of becoming a member and having access to the best instructional how to videos and professional tips. We would like to offer you a special promotion for your first-year membership.
      https://go.rvrepairclub.com/C15286

      Reply
  16. Lisa collins

    RV Make: Catalina, RV Model: Coachmen, RV Year: 2016, Brand: Catalina, Model Number: Coachmen

    The GF switch not working and either are the outlets …and making humming noise in the front of the RV …this is a 2016 Catalina Coachmen ..How or what do i need to do fix it

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi Lisa,

      If none of the outlets are working I would check the power distribution center. You could have loose connections or the buss bar became disconnected from the breakers. You will usually get a humming noise from the area at the converter but the converter does not power the 120v side. I would check the chassis ground, a lot of times it is located by the front near the battery. If this is loose or broken, you can be getting a humming noise from the electricity trying to get a good connection. You would have to trace the sound to find out what it is. I would get someone with some electrical know how to help you. Don’t check or touch wires when plugged into an outlet. Make sure the power is off when checking the distribution center. The distribution center is the best place to start tracing electrical issues.

      Thanks,

      Dan
      RV Repair Club Video Membership

      We’d love to have you be a part of our community. We are convinced you will enjoy the benefits of becoming a member and having access to the best instructional how to videos and professional tips. We would like to offer you a special promotion for your first-year membership.
      https://go.rvrepairclub.com/C15286

      Reply
  17. Ken

    RV Make: Grand design, RV Model: Solitude, RV Year: 2019

    Wanting to wire a shore line directly to rv. It is pre wired for genarator has a j box with black white green wires also a bare copper ground. Want to use a 30 amp pig tail. Can’t get a wire diagram from GD it looks as if I need to just go color to color and tie the ground wire off the genarator to the coach ground

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hello Ken,

      If the trailer is set up to have a 30 amp shore originally, the generator set up should be for a 4000w generator and should only have one hot wire. The black is hot, white is neutral, green is ground. The green and bare wire are both grounds, one should connect to the junction box itself to keep the box grounded but they will both connect to the ground together on the plug you want to install. Those pre wired cables on the trailer should go to a transfer switch, but if they do not you have to make sure to never plug in the original shore and the new one at the same time. This will damage the system. You also have to keep in mind that the wires are meant to connect directly to a generator. When tying in a plug you are essentially connected to an extension cord since the wires are now traveling through the plug and then the wires into the system. The are meant to get direct power from the generator. You may experience a little voltage drop so make sure you have good connections and be mindful of overloading the system. The colors on the cord should be the same as the wires in the box to prevent confusion.

      I hope this was helpful!

      Dan
      RV Repair Club Video Membership

      We’d love to have you be a part of our community. We are convinced you will enjoy the benefits of becoming a member and having access to the best instructional how to videos and professional tips. We would like to offer you a special promotion for your first-year membership.
      https://go.rvrepairclub.com/C15286

      Reply
  18. Doug

    RV Make: Thor , RV Model: Hurricane, RV Year: 2000

    When plugged in to shore power will it charge my starting battery also?

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hello Doug,

      Normally it does not. The converter will send a charge to the house batteries but the chassis battery is usually not connected to the house batteries unless the engine is on. The chassis battery usually has an isolation switch connected to the ignition system so when the engine is running the switch is engaged to charge the house batteries and chassis battery from the alternator when driving down the road. When the engine is off the switch turns off to prevent the chassis battery from draining when the house batteries are in use, this prevents you from being stranded while camping. Some RV’s have a selector switch that can be turned on to charge the chassis battery when plugged into an outlet, but this is more rare. You would have to check the owners manual of your RV and see if there is a switch for this situation. But typically, the chassis battery does not get a charge when plugged into shore power.

      I hope this helps!

      Dan
      RV Repair Club Video Membership

      Reply
  19. dmoutray2013

    RV Make: Chevy, RV Model: Heritage 2000, RV Year: 1984

    Can’t find the converter switch

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Dear Jack,

      Thank you for your patience. In response to your question-

      I am not sure what switch you are talking about exactly. Some older systems had a switch to change over the converter from battery operation to transformer but on newer RV’s, it combines them to operate at the same time and there is no switch needed. It really depends on the year of your RV and what kind of power distribution it has. If there is a switch, it will usually be in sight. By the door, front cab on the dash or by the power distribution center. The switch would indicate what position it needs to be in for certain operations, it shouldn’t be a blank switch. If you still have the owners manual or able to get it from the manufacture, it should indicate how the system works and what switches you might have. Sorry I can’t give you and exact location, every RV is different. I hope this information was helpful!

      Sincerely,

      Dan
      RV Repair Club

      Reply
  20. Alex

    RV Make: Monaco, RV Model: signature series, RV Year: 1997, Brand: Hearth Interface, Model Number: Freedom 25

    When Plugged in to 110 volts my domestic batteries are over charging and boiling over. is this a faulty Interface unit or does it have anything to do with the in coming amps, its only 110 volts?

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Dear Alex,

      Thank you for your patience. In response to your question-

      This is usually an indicator that you have a bad battery. It could be the converter but a lot of times it is actually the battery is the issue. The converter reads the battery when it is charging it and changes the charge rate based on what it is senses. If it senses the battery is really low it will send a higher voltage charge and if the battery is not accepting the charge it will stay at a high voltage charge and won’t stop. The battery will boil more water at the high voltage charge so when this happens all of the water can boil out. There is a chance it is the converter not sensing the battery properly but most of the time it is the battery itself. I would take the battery to have it tested to be sure. They test batteries for free at most auto parts stores. I hope this helps!

      Sincerely,
      Dan
      RV Repair Club Technical Expert

      Reply
  21. David

    RV Make: Pace ARrow, RV Model: 35V, RV Year: 1992

    At about 17-18 yrs I noticed indications of leakage inside and some cracks on the roof. I had the rubber roof replaced which seemed to solve the issue. Due to illnesses in the family the MH was neglected and sat for many years in the sun. Several months ago I noticed bubbles on the drivers side of the fiberglass along with 3 cracks. One leading from the corner of fridge cover up to a window. Another diagonally at the opposite corner of the fridge cover down to the heater cover and the third coming from the rear water heater cover down to just above the storage bins. I’ve had several guesstimates & been told that it would be best to replace the side which can run me anywhere from $7 up to 15K. Motorhome not worth that much.
    I know what I am asking is not a remedy but a band aid fix only. How can I repair the cracks. One of the MH repair shops said to use Liquid Nails to “glue” the cracks to the frame and a product called Sikaflex to waterproof the cracks. Does this sound like a good solution for now. I’m not sure how I would apply pressure to the cracks once glued allowing it to dry. I don’t think they make clamps big enough to go around the motor home.
    We’ve had the MH parked beside the house and used as a place to stay when the kids drop by from out of state.
    Thank you for any expert opinions you may have.

    Reply
  22. Chuck

    RV Make: fleetwood, RV Model: Discovery, RV Year: 2003

    I have a direct short I have fixed two thirds of the problem . I am trying to locate the fault. Short. I am toning out the circuits. can’t pinpoint location. any Suggestions ? I have replaced GCFI and circuit to top of GCFI is good. bottom shorted. I have a schematic on the layout yet it is not as per print. I have isolated each receptacle and have eliminated some runs. I have one of the three that I can’t locate. Went through many boxes and some hot and some not. Can’t trace where the next line goes. Any suggestion’s?

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Chuck,

      Yeah these can be tough sometimes. Make sure you have checked all of the outlets, there can be some hidden on lower sides of cabinets and above the sinks and make sure to check the outside outlets and in the outside kitchen if there is one on your RV. Also check behind the TV. There are some RV’s that use a non-metallic splice kit and I have seen these come apart and fail. These don’t have to be listed and don’t have to have an access point like a junction box. So this makes knowing and finding these difficult. They are typically used by the slide out wiring or behind the distribution center. It is something to keep in mind when searching around.

      Sincerely,

      Dan
      RV Repair Club Technical Expert

      Reply
    • Rob

      They make tracers that you can follow the circuit with through the wall. You can find where the power ends (open)

      Reply
  23. Judy cordie

    RV Make: Thor, RV Model: Freedom elite fe22, RV Year: 2017

    What would cause our main power cord to explode open . Now when we plug it in it trips circuts in the house and garage.

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hey Judy,

      That’s a fantastic question!

      The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members to our online community. We do have a promotional offer if you are interested. This would include access to expert advice (like this), plus discounts, hours of Premium videos, etc. Please feel free to take a look. You can email us right back with your question if you decide to become a member and you will have a response within 1-2 business days from our experts!

      Please follow the steps below to receive the annual membership at the introductory rate:
      1. Click on the Promotional Link: https://go.rvrepairclub.com/c18016
      2. Click on the Premium Membership offer.
      3. The Checkout page will display your Premium Membership purchase.
      4. Fill in your Billing Details and create an account password.
      5. Fill in your debit/credit card information.
      6. Finish by clicking Complete Order.

      If you have any further questions, please contact Customer Service at 1-855-706-3536 at your earliest convenience, or chat with us on our site.

      We greatly appreciate your business!

      Sincerely,

      Jessica
      RV Repair Club Video Membership

      Reply
  24. Gregory Cassini

    RV Make: Thor, RV Model: Four Winds 41W, RV Year: 2018

    When using an adapter to connect a 30 amp shore cord to a 50 amp receptacle will I only be able to draw 25 amps or are both legs of a 50 amp receptacle fused for 50 amps?

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Gregory,

      On a 50amp receptacle each leg is actually rated for 50amps each. So technically there is 100amps total just split between the legs. When you use a 30amp adapter into a 50amp receptacle, you technically have 50amps of service going to the RV. Since your RV is only rated for 30amps this is all you will be able to use though. You won’t be able to utilize the full 50amps but you will still be able to use the full 30 you are rated for.

      Sincerely,

      Dan
      RV Repair Club Technical Expert

      Reply
  25. Dorothy Kiesling

    RV Make: Thor, RV Model: FourWinds, RV Year: 2018

    I want to be able to connect my 30 amp to friends household power…what adapter do I need…I can’t seem to find it in the local hardware stores.

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi Dorothy!

      That’s a great question! Would you be able to provide the year, make, and model of your RV? Then I will pass this along to our expert!

      Sincerely,

      Jessica
      RV Repair Club Video Membership

      Reply
  26. Aubrey Nabb

    RV Make: Casita, RV Model: Liberty, RV Year: 2016

    Trying to understand the systems–first time owner

    Reply