The power converter is an essential component in an RV’s electrical system. Typically, coaches have two essentially separate electrical systems; one that provides 120 volts AC to high-power consumption, high-wattage appliances such as coffee makers, microwave ovens, hair dryers, air conditioners, etc. The other, low-voltage part of the electrical system provides 12 volts DC to lights and other items which don’t have high current draws, and are sometimes powered by onboard batteries (which provide power when you’re not hooked up to an outside power source or generator).
When you are connected to campground power or running off a generator, the power converter changes the 120 volt AC power to 12 volts DC, which is compatible with the low-voltage electrical system and batteries. This electricity supplied by the converter can take the place of the power from the batteries, and can also recharge them.
Many basic single-stage converters, typically found in older and lower-priced coaches, are still in use. They don’t have the sophisticated internal circuitry to properly charge and condition batteries. Some converter models supply only a fixed voltage of around 13.2 volts, which prevents batteries from reaching full charge and also shortens their service life. Modern multi-stage charging circuits typically include four operation modes: boost, normal, equalization and storage (or float).
Related article: RV Battery Basics: A Beginner’s Guide
Batteries have become quite expensive, and faulty charging by the converter can be both inconvenient due to loss of power, and costly in terms of ruining batteries. It’s likely that the majority of RV batteries succumb to sulfation, rather than actually being worn out, or dying of old age. Sulfation occurs when lead sulfate forms on the internal plates and reduces or even halts the battery’s ability to accept and hold a charge. When batteries are stored in a partially charged or discharged condition, and/or are improperly charged, sulfation occurs.
Batteries are sensitive to charging voltages and require multiple charging stages to get a full, proper charge. Multi-stage power converter/chargers that have an equalization stage are needed for effective battery charging.
One of the best things you can do for the life of your battery/ies is to familiarize yourself with the type of power converter you have in your coach. Many owners don’t even know where their converter is located. Typically it’s a metal box a little bigger than a large box of facial tissues and is situated adjacent to the fuse panel, near where the wiring comes into the coach. When it is powered up, it gives off a humming sound, which can help you locate it. Usually the make and model and power ratings are written on the case. You can also look up the ratings in the manuals that come with the RV.
Modern converters operate automatically and have become more efficient. Some newer models combine an inverter, which provides 120 volt AC power that’s produced electronically from 12 volt DC battery power, when the coach isn’t connected to an outside source of electricity. These add convenience and many owners upgrade to inverter-type power supplies when replacement time comes.
Troubleshooting Power Converters
If you have some DIY skills you can perform basic troubleshooting on your power converter. Power converters require sufficient voltage input to operate.
- Begin by checking voltage at the outlet the RV is plugged into. Use a handheld multimeter to check voltage at the campground outlet. It should range between 108 and 130 volts, preferably 120.
- Next, check to see if the circuit is protected by a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI). If so check if the GFCI is tripped, reset if needed.
- Then check for power going into the converter inside the coach. See if it has fuses on it; replace burned out ones with exact replacements.
- If everything checks out, listen; the unit should hum if it is operating.
- After that, measure for DC voltage (which requires a different scale on the meter) where power comes from the converter into the 12-volt DC breaker box. It should be around 12 to 14 volts if it is operating properly, if it’s lower you may have a faulty power converter.
Converters also have a small fan which cools the internal components during operation. The cooling fan should go on and off during converter use, controlled by a temperature sensor. The fans usually run on 120 volts AC, so be careful when measuring voltage and use the 200 volt AC meter scale. Make sure voltage is getting through the temperature sensor to the fan motor before condemning the motor. If the fan motor is good, you should be able to jumper wire the sensor and get the fan to operate. In this case, replace the sensor.
Replacing a Converter
Power converters are available in various amperage output ratings, designed to meet the RV’s 12-volt DC system demands. The larger and more amenity-filled the coach, the higher the power requirement. Converter 12-volt power output ratings generally range from about 20 to 100 amperes (amps), although small campers may have less. Usually the original unit is sufficient for the electrical loads of the RV as it came from the factory, but if you have added 12-volt electrical lights or other items, and find that there’s sometimes not enough “juice” you may need an upgrade.
A major reason owners upgrade is to get more modern multi-stage charging features with an equalization mode, to improve charging and extend battery life. Batteries are also sensitive to extreme temperatures; they lose power at low temperatures and outgas and give off more water during charging at higher temperatures. Some converter manufacturers offer models which have temperature compensation circuitry, which adjusts voltage and charge rates according to temperature. This feature is not only convenient, but extends battery life.
Some folks always have their RV connected to shore power, and find it a nuisance to have to install, maintain, and replace batteries. With many power converters, the 12 volt DC current they provide is not smooth and free of AC “ripples” and voltage variations which cause problems with some sensitive DC electronics. Batteries soak up ripples and small voltage spikes to protect these devices. However, Iota Engineering has a DLS converter series which produces smooth DC power that’s compatible with sensitive electronic circuits and can therefore be used without a battery in the system. Iota also offers the IQ4 Smart Charge Controller which adds multi-stage battery charging capability if you do decide to run batteries.
When it comes time up update your converter, take your time shopping. There are many useful features, and some models can be upgraded rather than being replaced. With all of the models available, you can tailor your power supply to your RVing needs.
You might also be interested in this free video RV Power Converter Troubleshooting:
Popular Sources
Iota Engineering
www.iotaengineering.com
520-294-3292
Parallax Power Supply
www.parallaxpower.com
800-730-2557
Progressive Dynamics
www.progressivedyn.com
269-781-4241
Xantrex
www.xantrex.com
800-670-0707
Have something to add to the story? Leave a comment below.
Fridge is not powering with gas usage from propane
Hello Michael,
Great question! The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members of our online community. By becoming a member, you will have access to our expert knowledge. With your membership you will also receive discounts on products and hundreds of hours of Premium content.
If you are interested in becoming a member, please click on the offer below:
https://www.rvrepairclub.com/?add-to-cart-multi=1&products=79&skipcart=1&coupon=C44742&vscid=C44742&skipcart=365510/?nabc=0&SubscriberKeyHash={{SubKeyHash}} Thanks!
Converter is bad and bought a series 4600 but the new dc board has more spaces for fuses and wiring and all of the wiring from old DC board are purple and have no idea what wire goes where . Old converter had blue,red,white coming from right side and only white and black from left side, new converter has white,black,green from left side and only white and black on right side , behind old DC board there’s a green wire and a large black wire and all the smaller wires than went to fuse area are all purple . Have no clue where to hook all them wires to on DC board , old board only has enough spots for the wires that are there , new board has way more .
Looking to replace a 12 volt power distribution center part number 111979a
HOW TO REPLACE CONVERTER
I need a 30 amp Invertor converter pic u have shows 7300 parellax series
Problem – no power getting to my ignition switch, slide-outs, radio, etc. The battery shows a good charge. Could I have shorted out an inverter or relay? The fuses all look good. Where should I start looking? Replaced the coach and chassis rocker switches as well.
Hello Gary,
Thank you for contacting us.
What is the year, make, and model of your RV?
Thanks!
How and where can I get a power compasitator in the power supply box?
Great question! The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members of our online community. By becoming a member, you will have access to our expert’s knowledge. With your membership you will also receive discounts on products and hundreds of hours of Premium content.
If you are interested in becoming a member, please click on the offer below:
https://go.rvrepairclub.com/c19765/
Thanks!
My RV is permanently parked with shore power and a backup generator. I am tired of having to replace the deep cycle batteries at over $100 ! Can I just get a converter without a charger? Can I run my Intel without the battery? I have been looking for a converter without a charge but can’t find one Help
Great question! The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members of our online community. By becoming a member, you will have access to our expert’s knowledge. With your membership you will also receive discounts on products and hundreds of hours of Premium content.
If you are interested in becoming a member, please click on the offer below:
https://go.rvrepairclub.com/C37299
Thanks
Sarah
RV Repair Club Video Membership
My camper sits powered up in a remote location for several years at a time. A couple days ago when we were on-site, the lights started flickering and, from near the power panel, a clicking sound was being made, sounding like a relay chattering. When I turn off the breaker powering the voltage converter, the flickering and chatter noise stopped, leading me to believe I have an issue in the voltage converter. During troubleshooting, when shore power is turned off, the coach lights don’t work. Although I haven’t checked my battery I think it’s probably dead and needs replacement. My question is, will the dead battery cause the light flickering and noise on its own? I’m going back to location next week and will measure battery voltage and inspect the coach power panel & its fan as a start. Any assistance is appreciated. Per owners info packet, it appears that the existing (original) converter is an IOTA Engineering unit, Model ILC 3045, S/N 36405.
Hello,
Great question! The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members of our online community. By becoming a member, you will have access to our expert’s knowledge. With your membership you will also receive discounts on products and hours of Premium video content.
If you are interested in becoming a member, please click on the special offer below:
https://go.rvrepairclub.com/C34154
Thanks!
I have a rv electric outlet I would like to be able to plug in standard 120 outlet does anyone know of a adapter or do I have to get electrician
Hello Kurtis,
Thank you for contacting us.
What is the year, make, and model of your RV?
Sincerely,
Sarah
RV Repair Club Video Membership
how do i know if my converter when switched on reduces to maintain the batteries or is it just full on and i need to turn it off manually when i see system check light says full charge
Hello,
Great question! The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members of our online community. By becoming a member, you will have access to our expert’s knowledge. With your membership you will also receive discounts on products and hours of Premium video content.
If you are interested in becoming a member, please click on the special offer below:
https://go.rvrepairclub.com/a19774/
Thanks!
Compatible replacement converter.
Most of the time I am plugged into power, so from my understanding my batteries should stay charged if the inverter is on right? And how do I know if the solar power is working correctly? How does the inverter work to generate power into my RV from the solar ? I’m asking because my new batteries should be getting charged while I’m hooked into power but when I’m not they seem to be dying quickly and I don’t get any power to any appliances or outlets when I’m not hooked into power even though I should have power from the solar system right? I inherited the rv which my father kept in near perfect new condition except for his last couple of years, he quit maintaining it. I’ve had all the engine serviced due to it not running for 5yrs + but can the power system go bad from storing the rv? No rats or mice in it so no damage there. I replaced the gfci in the bathroom and according to the instructions it won’t work if hooked up wrong, well it works good, like it should on ac power.
Hi Novalea. Inverters use battery voltage to power 120v circuits, usually a residential fridge or certain outlets. The converter is what normally charges the batteries when plugged into shore power. Inverters are only supposed to be used for a short while to operate 120v circuits, it is more of a backup than trying to run things for a long time. You usually only get about half a day or so out of using an inverter to run 120v circuits. You need a lot of batteries to make the inverter last a long time. Solar panels just charge batteries, they don’t actually run anything. If you are using more battery voltage than what is being charged then the batteries will still run low. It depends on how many panels, how many batteries you have and what is being used to determine how fast they will charge and last. Most people who use inverters for long periods of time have about 6-8 batteries and a full roof of solar panels. If you just have one or two batteries and a few panels while using the inverter, you won’t last that long. When using just battery power it is best to only have the inverter running when needed, not as a main power source.
Dan
RV Repair Club
I have a problem with my 30 amp converter. The AC part works OK – no problem with microwave, air conditioner, frig or the electrical outlets; however, the problem is more with the DC part. The lights flicker and dim and this increases as I turn on more of the lights. I did some testing and the connections and grounds seem to be OK, but I’m not sure if I need to replace the converter or not. I had to put my trailer into storage already for this year and I forgot to record the make and model of the converter. I’ll do some further checking in the spring, but can you tell me, in general, if you think I should replace the converter or is there some repair I can do? Do you have any idea what type of converter I should get?
Hi Robert,
I would be happy to pass this along to one of our experts with some additional information. Could you please provide the year, make, and model or your RV?
Thanks,
RV Repair Club Video Membership
Looking for a Convertor
Hello we have a 2012 winabago and Vista 27 foot motorhome with one AC unit on the roof. When the motorhome is plugged into household current AC works perfectly when the generator (no household current) is running AC will stall the generator. When generator is running without AC we can put on all the lights microwave a hair dryer everything works just fine until we put the AC on than generator stalls. Dealer told us it’s an AC problem? Repair person told us it could be battery, generator, inverter, tripped GFI (which we checked )what would you recommend us to do to troubleshoot?
Thanks
Debbie
Hello Debbie. Really the only issue it could be is with the generator. If there was an issue with the AC itself the breaker would be tripping when connected to shore power. Since the issue only happens when on the generator, the generator isn’t able to handle the full load of the AC. The AC pulls a lot of amps when trying to run, more than anything else in the RV. If the generator bogs down then there is a few things that could cause this. It can either be a fuel restriction from the fuel filter or blockage in the carburetor. There could also be an air flow issue too so make sure the air filter is clean. Sometimes simple maintenance can fix these types of issues so make sure the oil is good too. If all of that is fine then the carburetor might need cleaned.
Dan
RV Repair Club
I would like recommendations on a replacement power convertor.
Hello Justin,
Thank you for contacting us.
What is the year, make, and model your RV please?
Sincerely,
Sarah
RV Repair Club Video Membership
When running my generator without outside power source using the air conditioner the generator shuts off after just one minute what may cause this to happen
Hello Patrick,
Thank you for contacting us.
What is the year, make, and model or your RV please?
If you have any other concerns, please contact us at 1-855-706-3536, or chat with us on our site.
We greatly appreciate your business!
Sincerely,
Lindsay
Need to know the output voltage on the red and white leads,
Hello Richard,
Thank you for contacting us.
What is the year, make, model of your RV?
If you have any other concerns, please contact us at 1-855-706-3536, or chat with us on our site.
We greatly appreciate your business!
Sincerely,
Lindsay
RV Repair Club Video Membership
Ticket 38162 I need to know what kind of inverter to get for this.
Hello Harold!
Here is what our experts had to say:
If you are looking to install an inverter it all depends on what you plan on powering with it. The inverters take battery power and turn it into 120v to power a single appliance or circuit. You can get large inverters to power the entire camper but then you would need a very large battery bank as well. You want an inverter based on the wattage size that you need. For most single circuits or single appliance you would get a 2000w inverter. If you are looking into replacing the converter which powers the fuse panels in RV’s, you would have to check the current one and see what it is rated for and get that exact size or bigger to power everything.
Sincerely, Dan RV Repair Club Technical Expert
what size (how many watt system) do i need to replace my voltage converter? what size came with it originally?
thank you
Great question! The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members of our online community. I would be happy to send your question off to the experts. To get started, please send the email associated with your paid membership account. Thanks!
I would like to have the bedroom tv work by the inverter but it stops when I start the engine.
Is there a relay some where?
Hey Ed,
We would love to answer this expert question for you but I would need the year, make, and model of your RV. Once we receive the information, we can pass it along to the experts.
Sincerely,
Danesha
RV Repair Club Video Membership
At 5:00 one morning last week, I was awakened by a loud high-pitched squeal. I followed it to the converter so I quickly ran outside and unplugged the power. Is it possible the noise was made by a worn cooling-fan bearing and, if so, can the cooling fan be replaced without having to replace the entire unit? I have not plugged it in again since then.
Hello Jerry,
Thank you for contacting us.
I have seen this happen before. It is really the only moving thing on the converter so most likely the fan is making the noise. I have heard small high pitched noises coming from the board but what you described is what a fail fan usually makes. On certain models just the fan can be replaced, on many others though the whole unit needs replaced. You would have to look up the model number on the converter itself and see if there are parts available for it. Before replacing though, check the fan and make sure something isn’t just wrapped around it like a hair or string. It is possible something is just creating a bind on it.
If you have any other concerns, please contact us at 1-855-706-3536, or chat with us on our site.
We greatly appreciate your business!
Sincerely,
Lindsay
RV Repair Club Video Membership
My RV came prewired for solar with a GoPower 10 amp solar charge controller. I put an REC 320W solar panel on my roof, and it overloaded the controller, so I disconnected it. The place I got the panel told me to upgrade to a Victron 30 amp controler. My ultimate goal is to have the 2 new 12v deep cycle batteries charge from solar enough to run a 4500 grandel inverter that I also want to install, but now I am worried I might just melt the whole system down. Is it likely the power converter can handle this system? We boondock a lot and I wear a CPAP at night so I need consistent solar recharge, but would like to run the toaster, AC, and microwave (not all at the same time if not possible). I don’t want to burn my motor home down, but I want it to be more comfortable than it is.
Hey Okley,
We would love to answer this expert question for you but I would need the year, make, and model of your RV. Once we receive the information, we can pass it along to the experts.
Sincerely,
Danesha
RV Repair Club Video Membership
Just bought this upgrade 3 days ago and still have no 12 volt power without genset. All batteries are only a few months old.
Hi Michael. If the 12v is not working off of batteries you will want to look for an inline fuse from the batteries to the fuse panel inside. Typically they are by the batteries. You also want to check the ground connection from the batteries. The negative terminal on the battery will connect directly to the chassis frame at some point. If this connection is rusted, corroded or broken it will not allow the batteries to send voltage through. Also check under the power center and fuse panel around the frame of the coach. The fuse panel will have the same type of ground connection directly to the frame. Make sure all of these are good connections. A lot of times it is necessary to remove the connection and drill a new screw into the frame for a better connection. Most likely there is an issue with an inline fuse or bad ground connection.
Dan
RV Repair Club
My camper is only getting 85 volts inside but it shows 120 on the power pole why is it losing power
This is usually an indication of a loose connection or break in the shore cord. Check the head of your shore cord and see if there are any signs of melted plastic, burnt terminals or even loose terminal prongs. If so, it most likely is the cord. Make sure to check all connections to ensure they have a tight connection. Loose connections are more common then a cord failing but I have had to replace cords as well. Just make sure to check all connections first before replacing anything.
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
Where can I get a manual for my particular unit. I’ve gone to both Coachman and Forest River and the manuals they make available are generic and don’t necessarily answer my questions.
Hi Brad,
Great question! I will need more information from you. Please resubmit your question and include the year, make and model of your RV?
Sincerely,
Joan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
What type of inverter do I need and how many amps 35 or 50?
Hi Bruce!
That’s a great question!
The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members to our online community. We do have a promotional offer if you are interested. This would include access to expert advice (like this), plus discounts, hours of Premium videos, etc. Please feel free to take a look. You can message us right back with your question if you decide to become a member and you will have a response within 1-2 business days from our experts!
Please follow the steps below to receive the annual membership at the introductory rate:
1. Click on the email link: https://go.rvrepairclub.com/C23896
2. Click on the Premium Membership offer.
3. The Checkout page will display your Premium Membership purchase.
4. Fill in your Billing Details and create an account password.
5. Fill in your debit/credit card information.
6. Finish by clicking Complete Order.
If you have any further questions, please contact Customer Service at 1-855-706-3536 at your earliest convenience, or chat with us on our site.
We greatly appreciate your business!
Sincerely,
Shelley
RV Repair Club Video Membership”
Looking to replace a dead house battery with a SLA battery & need to know if the original converter will be able to charge it? Just purchased this RV recently & do not know the model of converter.
Hi Toni!
That’s a great question!
The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members to our online community. We do have a promotional offer if you are interested. This would include access to expert advice (like this), plus discounts, hours of Premium videos, etc. Please feel free to take a look. You can message us right back with your question if you decide to become a member and you will have a response within 1-2 business days from our experts!
Please follow the steps below to receive the annual membership at the introductory rate:
1. Click on the email link: https://go.rvrepairclub.com/C23896
2. Click on the Premium Membership offer.
3. The Checkout page will display your Premium Membership purchase.
4. Fill in your Billing Details and create an account password.
5. Fill in your debit/credit card information.
6. Finish by clicking Complete Order.
If you have any further questions, please contact Customer Service at 1-855-706-3536 at your earliest convenience, or chat with us on our site.
We greatly appreciate your business!
Sincerely,
Shelley
RV Repair Club Video Membership”
Wondering what kind of converter we need to replace the one in ore fourwinds motor home that is not working
Hi Kathy!
That’s a great question!
The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members to our online community. We do have a promotional offer if you are interested. This would include access to expert advice (like this), plus discounts, hours of Premium videos, etc. Please feel free to take a look. You can message us right back with your question if you decide to become a member and you will have a response within 1-2 business days from our experts!
Please follow the steps below to receive the annual membership at the introductory rate:
1. Click on the email link: https://go.rvrepairclub.com/C23586
2. Click on the Premium Membership offer.
3. The Checkout page will display your Premium Membership purchase.
4. Fill in your Billing Details and create an account password.
5. Fill in your debit/credit card information.
6. Finish by clicking Complete Order.
If you have any further questions, please contact Customer Service at 1-855-706-3536 at your earliest convenience, or chat with us on our site.
We greatly appreciate your business!
Sincerely,
Shelley
RV Repair Club Video Membership”
The distribution center does not have power unless I am plugged into shore power or the generator is running. I believe I need a new converter
I like to change my fridge to AC/DC only.! I do not like the propane absorption.
Really the only option is to install a residential fridge but it will not have the DC option. The only fridges with the DC option are really small fridges, about the size of dorm fridges. This is because to use DC power it requires a high amp draw to heat the boiler and would drain the battery extremely fast for a larger fridge. It only works on small fridges and even on those it doesn’t cool, it really only helps maintain the temperature during travel. If you don’t like using gas you can get an inverter to run the circuit to operate the fridge while traveling. This does work better than using a DC fridge. They do have a newer style 12v from Norcold called the Polar series. These do operate only off of 12v with a compressor. They work really well and are 12v only so you can use them off the grid or while traveling. These can replace the larger size fridges. If you have a smaller size you can replace with the ac/dc fridge and just cap off the gas line. With either model you will already have the wiring needed on the back of the fridge.
https://norcold.com/product-category/ac-dc-refrigerators/
https://norcold.com/product-category/polar-series/
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
Can I upgrade to a smart 55 amp converter without any issues?
Yes that is fine to do. You can always upgrade you just can’t go down. The converters are rated for that output and will only use what is needed to run the fuse panels. By adding more amps you are covering everything you have and have the option to add something later if needed. You would only run into issues if you went smaller since it wouldn’t be enough to run everything you already have.
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
Basement air runs fine off generator but the control panel on the inverter is flashing all the lights on and off. Ceiling lights start out bright but gradually fade to dim after awhile.
The ceiling lights come from the 12v system so it is possible there is an issue with the converter. Some converters are very touchy to incoming voltage so if the voltage from the generator fluctuates or is low it is possible for the other issues. If this only happens when the AC is running then it might be pulling too many amps and the generator can’t keep up and provide enough. It is best to test the 120v from the generator and make sure it is good and steady, also check the voltage when things are on and when the lights go dim and see if there is a change. Most likely it is a voltage issue from the generator which would be from the voltage regulator.
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
My converter is not charging my batteries. How do I diagnose and resolve this issue.
Really the best way to test the converter is checking the voltage. Turn everything off in the RV, lights, appliances etc. Make sure there is good 120v AC voltage to the converter and then test for 12v DC voltage coming out of the converter. If there is anything less than 12.6v DC coming out of the converter then it is bad and will need replaced. Don’t test the converter while running things as it can make the voltage reading look low on some models.
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
Moved father’s trailer to new park and now their seems to be a power issue with AC, park connection is steady at 114v, with everything else off but the AC, my voltage measured at the breaker drops to 100v and I draw about 18.5A on a 20A circuit. Turning on other items like the fridge doesn’t affect too much, but still a 1-2v decrease. Turn anything else on and the voltage drops to like 90 and the AC compressor kicks out. Is it the converter that is either too small or going dead? I believe that in general, I should always have close to 110v across the breakers. Didn’t have this issue before changing parks, but the volts at the pole are constant (measured 4 different times to verify)
Your thoughts
Hello Mark!
We’d love to help!
The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members to our online community. We do have a promotional offer if you are interested. This would include access to expert advice (like this), plus discounts, hours of Premium videos, etc. Please feel free to take a look. You can message us right back with your question if you decide to become a member and you will have a response within 1-2 business days from our experts!
Please follow the steps below to receive the annual membership at the introductory rate:
1. Click on the email link: https://go.rvrepairclub.com/C22462
2. Click on the Premium Membership offer.
3. The Checkout page will display your Premium Membership purchase.
4. Fill in your Billing Details and create an account password.
5. Fill in your debit/credit card information.
6. Finish by clicking Complete Order.
If you have any further questions, please contact Customer Service at 1-855-706-3536 at your earliest convenience, or chat with us on our site.
We greatly appreciate your business!
Sincerely,
Jessica
RV Repair Club Video Membership
How do I tell if my converter is a multi stage battery charger? I recently was told that the battery were bad in my rv and it was because they were only 1 stage Either bulk or absorption. My batteries were 6v and both were dry. I recently purchase this rv used. These batteries were installed Aug 2019
You would have to get the model number off of your converter and search for the manual and see what charging cycles it offers. There is nothing visual to indicate what the converter offers for charging. The only thing that would indicate this would be the manual and the best way to find it is to locate the model number of your converter and either search for the manual or contact the manufacture directly and ask what it does. Even smart chargers will dry out batteries over time though. You have to make sure to check the water levels on a regular basis to prevent this from happening. Float charges don’t loose as much water but will over 6 months so even in storage you have to check the water levels at least twice a year. More often during use.
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
just picked up motor home, connected to shore power, but did check everything out including generator. only used front air driving, get home put generator on went on but air and microwave not on. is there a transfer switch
Hello Linda,
Thank you for contacting us. The experts are going to need the make, model and the year of the RV before they are able to assist you with the question. Please reply back with that information and we will submit your question.
If you have any other concerns, please contact us at 1-855-706-3536, or chat with us on our site.
We greatly appreciate your business!
Sincerely,
Joan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
Converter not letting DC power Out. Problem DC coming in to Fuse block, only on side of fuse block had power with fuses out but 40 amp fuse in power went down to 5 or less amps, pulled it out back to 12
.7 amps one side. Plug shore power in and you get dc power to battery and dc works. Installed new converter (progressive pd4100) same problem???
Hello Bob!
That’s a great question and we’d love help out!
The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members to our online community. We do have a promotional offer if you are interested. This would include access to expert advice (like this), plus discounts, hours of Premium videos, etc. Please feel free to take a look. You can message us right back with your question if you decide to become a member and you will have a response within 1-2 business days from our experts!
Please follow the steps below to receive the annual membership at the introductory rate:
1. Click on the email link: https://www.rvrepairclub.com/?add-to-cart-multi=1&products=79&skipcart=1&coupon=C22153&vscid=C22153&skipcart=325324/?nabc=0&SubscriberKeyHash={{SubKeyHash}}
2. Click on the Premium Membership offer.
3. The Checkout page will display your Premium Membership purchase.
4. Fill in your Billing Details and create an account password.
5. Fill in your debit/credit card information.
6. Finish by clicking Complete Order.
If you have any further questions, please contact Customer Service at 1-855-706-3536 at your earliest convenience, or chat with us on our site.
We greatly appreciate your business!
Sincerely,
Jessica
RV Repair Club Video Membership
All of my external F53 lights do not come on. The Emergency lights work well.
Guillermo,
The running lights are all tied together on the same circuit so you first want to start by checking the fuse for that circuit. If the fuse is fine you might have a wiring issue. They are all connected in parallel and if the first one has a bad connection preventing flow to the next light all of the others will go out. If the fuse is fine you will have to take out the lights and check for a bad connection. Typically the chain starts in the front and then goes to the rear so it is best to start at the front and work from there.
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
We just acquired this rig, the electric wasn’t working in parts even after charging the battery. Ended up replacing the converter. The converter was underneath in the basement area behind sliding doors and underneath some venting tubes. I’m told most 5th wheels converters are in this area. Just thought I’d give this information as it’s usually close to the fuse box in many rigs but not with DRV. We were told by the dealership to look in the basement and near the power cord.
Where is the converter in this model?
Hello Rhonda,
Thank you for contacting us. Great question! The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members of our online community. By becoming a member, you will have access to our expert’s knowledge in RV’s. With your membership you will also receive discounts on products and hours of Premium video content. And without knowing the make, model and year of your RV our experts would not be able to assist.
If you are interested in becoming a member to RV Repair Club, please click on the special offer below:
https://go.rvrepairclub.com/C21358
If you have any further questions, please chat, email, or contact Customer Service at 1-855-706-3536.
We greatly appreciate your business!
Sincerely,
Joan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
If I change out my house battery’s for lithium will I need to do any with my alternator to be able to charge lithium battery’s
Hey Gerald,
Great question! I would be happy to submit this to our team of experts for their input, but I need more information before I do that.
What is the make/year/model of your RV?
If you have any questions or concerns, please chat, email or call us at 1-855-706-3536.
Best,
Madeline
RV Repair Club Video Membership
Our 1973 Travelmate camper still has the original Progressive Dynamics power converter installed, it is only used to power the interior lights which have all been changed to LED fixtures. There is a “cigarette lighter” style plug which we do not use installed as well. Last spring we had the camper out and when we powered up the converter all of the light were dim, but the converter was putting out 12 volts according to my voltmeter. It took about 30 minutes for the lights to brighten up. I plugged the camper up last night and they are dim again, it has been unplugged all summer, after an hour they still hadn’t brightened up. I still have 12 volts. Do you think I have a bad convertor? Also, there is no battery in this camper.
Hello Barry!
That’s a great question!
The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members to our online community. We do have a promotional offer if you are interested. This would include access to expert advice (like this), plus discounts, hours of Premium videos, etc. Please feel free to take a look. You can message us right back with your question if you decide to become a member and you will have a response within 1-2 business days from our experts!
Please follow the steps below to receive the annual membership at the introductory rate:
1. Click on the email link: https://go.rvrepairclub.com/c18864
2. Click on the Premium Membership offer.
3. The Checkout page will display your Premium Membership purchase.
4. Fill in your Billing Details and create an account password.
5. Fill in your debit/credit card information.
6. Finish by clicking Complete Order.
If you have any further questions, please contact Customer Service at 1-855-706-3536 at your earliest convenience, or chat with us on our site.
We greatly appreciate your business!
Sincerely,
Jessica
RV Repair Club Video Membership
I have a issue with the 12 volt system killing my battery quite fast while being plugged into a 120v. Even the fan system for the heater will kill the battery which is strange to me. HELP!!!
Hello Timothy!
We’d love to help!
The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members to our online community. We do have a promotional offer if you are interested. This would include access to expert advice (like this), plus discounts, hours of Premium videos, etc. Please feel free to take a look. You can message us right back with your question if you decide to become a member and you will have a response within 1-2 business days from our experts!
Please follow the steps below to receive the annual membership at the introductory rate:
1. Click on the email link: https://go.rvrepairclub.com/c18552
2. Click on the Premium Membership offer.
3. The Checkout page will display your Premium Membership purchase.
4. Fill in your Billing Details and create an account password.
5. Fill in your debit/credit card information.
6. Finish by clicking Complete Order.
If you have any further questions, please contact Customer Service at 1-855-706-3536 at your earliest convenience, or chat with us on our site.
We greatly appreciate your business!
Sincerely,
Jessica
RV Repair Club Video Membership
Need to know best type of power invert for my rdv
Hey Robert!
The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members to our online community. We do have a promotional offer if you are interested. This would include access to expert advice (like this), plus discounts, hours of Premium videos, etc. Please feel free to take a look. You can message us right back with your question if you decide to become a member and you will have a response within 1-2 business days from our experts!
Please follow the steps below to receive the annual membership at the introductory rate:
1. Click on the email link: https://go.rvrepairclub.com/c18164
2. Click on the Premium Membership offer.
3. The Checkout page will display your Premium Membership purchase.
4. Fill in your Billing Details and create an account password.
5. Fill in your debit/credit card information.
6. Finish by clicking Complete Order.
If you have any further questions, please contact Customer Service at 1-855-706-3536 at your earliest convenience, or chat with us on our site.
We greatly appreciate your business!
Sincerely,
Jessica
RV Repair Club Video Membership
What kind of converter should I get for my Keystone Laredo?
Hi Ruth!
The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members to our online community. We do have a promotional offer if you are interested. This would include access to expert advice (like this), plus discounts, hours of Premium videos, etc. Please feel free to take a look. You can message us right back with your question if you decide to become a member and you will have a response within 1-2 business days from our experts!
Please follow the steps below to receive the annual membership at the introductory rate:
1. Click on the email link: https://go.rvrepairclub.com/c18064
2. Click on the Premium Membership offer.
3. The Checkout page will display your Premium Membership purchase.
4. Fill in your Billing Details and create an account password.
5. Fill in your debit/credit card information.
6. Finish by clicking Complete Order.
If you have any further questions, please contact Customer Service at 1-855-706-3536 at your earliest convenience, or chat with us on our site.
We greatly appreciate your business!
Sincerely,
Jessica
RV Repair Club Video Membership
My residential refrigerator, ac’s and 120 outlets work as the should when power source is the onboard generator but none of these work when a 120 volt 15 amp shore power is supplied even though 120 volts is read into control panel from transfer switch and also through breakers????
Scott,
You will want to get a circuit tester and check the outlets. It is possible there is something wrong with the outlet the shore is plugged into or the adapter being used. Don’t use a light up voltage tester, this just indicates that there is a hot wire nearby. It will not tell you if there is an open neutral, open ground, reverse polarity or low voltage like a circuit test would do. Most will not say the voltage, you will have to use a voltmeter for that. There is the possibility of the incoming wiring being wrong at the transfer switch but typically not likely. There could also be a problem with the shore cord as well. Since everything works fine off of the generator, things from the transfer switch to the panel are correct. The problem is the 120v before the transfer switch so either the connections at the switch, shore cord, adapter or the outlet you are plugged into.
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
12 volt auxiliary battery is only giving out 9 volts. No juice going to lights and test panel inside rv except when plugged in to AC outlet.
Is there a reset button on 2004 thor 4 winds rv? If so where is it located?
Hello. I would first check to see what the voltage is at the battery when you are plugged into an outlet. It should be between 13v-16v when plugged in and nothing else is on. If the battery is still reading 9v, then there is a problem with the charging system. If there is a charge being sent to the battery but it does not accept a charge, the battery would have to be replaced. When there is no charge going to the battery you will first want to check the battery disconnect switch and make sure it is in the “on” position. If it is, I would then check the fuse panel and make sure the fuse for the charge line is fine. Since you have lights when plugged in your converter should be fine. It just sounds like the battery is not getting a charge. This is usually caused by a bad connection, blown fuse or bad battery. Make sure to check all connections and especially the chassis ground. There will be a negative wire attached to the chassis and if this breaks or is loose, it could stop things from working like the charge line. Check all connections at the fuse panel and make sure they are tight as well. There are some models that use a breaker instead of a fuse and some are automatic resetting while there are some that have a push button to reset them. If you have one of these, they are typically found in the battery compartment. Most will use the fuses though and can be inline or at the main fuse panel. I hope this helps!
Thanks
Dan-RV Repair Club
How to test the multi-stage converter for proper operation?
HELP I no nothing about it it doesn’t have a manuel,I can’t find one. I need my refrig.to work,can’t find my inverter/Converter box. Please.
I just purchased a used Winnebago Class B on a Mercedes Sprinter diesel chassis. It’s 2014, but only has 14,000 miles. The generator has less than 15 hours use.
I need help, and I can’t find help from Winnebago, nearby RV dealers, or other generator/RV shops. Please offer comments and recommendations!
The generator runs on LP. When the vehicle is not running, the generator will start but die after a second or two. This may sound like a simple fuel supply issue, but strangely the generator runs perfectly well while the vehicle is running. In other words, if the engine is running and I start the generator, it happily keeps on running.
in the condition when the vehicle is running and the generator is running at the same time, the generator quits when a load is applied, AC on high cold for example.
Additionally, the vehicle engine is not charging the house batteries. The fuses and Breakers are all fine, as far as I can find.
Please folks, give me advice and suggestions. Thank you very much.
Dear Peter,
Thank you for your patience. In response to your question-
I would check the wiring from the generator to the batteries. It should be connected to the house batteries and not the chassis battery? If it is connected to the chassis battery this would make sense of it working while the engine is running and immediately dies when the engine is not running. The batteries could be connected to the house batteries like they should though and you could have a different problem though. You say that the batteries are not getting a charge while traveling, have you checked the voltage to the batteries while the engine is running? If the generator is connected to the house batteries and it works when the engine is on, the engine could be powering the house batteries but when you turn off the ignition this takes the chassis battery out of the circuit and now the generator is on the house batteries that aren’t receiving a charge and it could be shutting down because of this. There could be a charge going to the house batteries but they might not be accepting the charge if they are bad batteries. I would have the batteries charged from a different source and then load tested. Having bad batteries could be the issue that is causing the generator not to work. It would also make since for the AC to shut down the system, it needs a high amp draw and if you have weak or bad batteries the system will shut down. The generator should also be charging the batteries while in use and if there is not voltage left in the batteries after it has been running and traveling, most likely it is bad batteries. Again, I would have the batteries tested because from everything you have told me it sounds like this should be the issue. I hope it helps!
We’d love to have you be a part of our community. We are convinced you will enjoy the benefits of becoming a member and having access to the best instructional how to videos and professional tips. We would like to offer you a special promotion for your first-year membership.
https://go.rvrepairclub.com/c16978
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
Would I benefit from a battery minder
I am putting solar on my houseboat with is wired for a 12 volt system%.. I picked up my inverter and found it to be a 24 volt inverter requiring me to have 8 batteries. I’m not sure I am able to installa 24 volt system when I’m wired for 12. Please let me know if I need to return this inverter.
just stumbled onto ur site. looks like a gold mine for rv owners
Every time I use slideouts on batterypower or slippery landing gear ,they stop then restart after cooling. Batteries are fully charged. I think I need new converter, it,s only a 40 watt converter.
I am having problems with the 12 volt system. It would shut down and not come back on. The 120 system works fine. The shut off switch would turn it back on but would not stay on. Now we don’t get anything on 12 volt side. Really would appreciate your help. Thanks James
Dear James,
Thank you for your patience. In response to your question-
It sounds like a problem with the converter. The best thing to do is check the connections going to it and the voltage going to and out of the converter. If the 120v going in fluctuates, it can cause this issue and the problem is with your shore cord, the buss bar or the outlet you are plugged into. If there is steady voltage above 105VAC going to the converter and the 12v coming out fluctuates or is lower than 12.6VDC, the converter is bad. Sometimes this can come down to a loose connection, I have seen this from the converter to the fuse panel and tightening the connection can make everything work again. Inspecting and testing the voltage to and from the converter is really all you can do. I hope this helps!
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
I had depended on the gas power generator for my 120 power for 6 months then when I tried plugging it into a wall plug with a ground fault interrupt it tripped the interrupt.
Converter went out bought another converter hooked it up fan ran for a second or two went out. 119 volts coming in. This is the third converter trailer is 2012.
Yes j bought a 92 Fleetwood wilderness camper. The converter was bad and they took it out so now I need to know what kind of converter I need like as far as what amp converter j need to get thanks…
Hi Mike,
Dan Anderson (RVRC)
Yesterday 20:13
It can be a little tricky to find out what size converter came with the RV if it was removed. The converters installed at the factory are rated based on what is needed to run everything in the RV without going over the limit. It really depends on what is in your RV that runs off of 12VDC. You would want to calculate the wattage of everything, lights, slide out, water pump, fridge, furnace, radio, 12v Tv’s, roof vents, and whatever other 12v devices you may have. Once you combine the total wattage, divide by 12.6 and this will give you the total amp draw of the system. You would want to get a converter just above that to allow for extra room as low voltage will cause high amp draw so you always want to be safe. Most small trailers will have around 30 amp converters, trailers above 20′ could be around 45 amps, 30′ around 55 amps and so on. There is a website that offers a power converter calculator that could help determine what you may need, it would be a good starting point. Here is the website:https://rv52.com/all-about-rvs/how-to-video/how-to-all-about-converters/power-converter-size-calculator/
I hope this information was helpful!
Dan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
We’d love to have you be a part of our community. We are convinced you will enjoy the benefits of becoming a member and having access to the best instructional how to videos and professional tips. We would like to offer you a special promotion for your first-year membership.
https://go.rvrepairclub.com/C15033
My unit has a converter Magnetec 7000 and inverter Freedom 20. It appears that both can charge batteries. The inverter is external next to batteries. The converter is under back bed. Unit also has 2 transfer boxes. A 50 Ecco external in cord bin. And a 30 Ecco under bed next to converter. Why?
Hello,
Yes the converter and inverter can both charge the batteries. The converter takes in the 120v AC and turns it into 12v DC to operate the fuse panel and all of the 12v components when plugged into an outlet. It is connected to the battery to not only charge it, but it allows the batteries to send voltage to the fuse panel when not plugged into an outlet so you can use lights, slide outs, pump motor etc. The inverter you have most likely connects to one appliance, like a residential fridge or possible a set of outlets. It has it’s own internal transfer switch, as least the other Freedom 20’s I have seen do, so when you want to operate the appliance from the batteries it will converter the 12v DC from the battery into 120v AC to run the appliance. When plugged into an outlet, it turns off the conversion and just runs off of 120v coming from the shore cord. It can also convert the voltage to 12v to charge the battery. Converters are standard in RV’s and are the primary use to charge the batteries when plugged into an outlet, when an inverter is installed it can also be used to charge the batteries. This feature can be turned off on the inverter if not needed. I’m really not sure why there is a 50 amp and a 30 amp cord. The same goes for why there is 2 transfer switches as well. Normally there is only one transfer switch when a generator is installed, you can only have one source of 120v coming into the RV at a time. The transfer switch just allows one to come through. Having two different amp power sources would explain why there is one switch, but I’m a little lost on why there is two. You should consult the owners manual for the unit and see why it is set up this way. They might just give you 2 power cords so you can use any pedestal but normally you can just use an adapter for this. Do you have 3 air conditioners? One of the AC’s might be able to be powered off of another pedestal while the rest of the camper runs off of the 50 amp service? I am really not sure. If you can provide the make, model and year of your RV I could try to look into why it is set up like this.
I hope this information was helpful!
Dan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
I was told when I bought my pop-up recently that it need a battery and converter. I have determined via my battery charger that the battery is dead – needs replacement. So, my question is, if I plug into shore power with the dead battery still connected should the converter do anything? Should lights come on? Must I have a good battery to get the converter to do anything? Thank you
Momentary main switch stayed on. Followed the direction in manual disconnected the ground of house battery have no 12 volt power. Suggestions
Hello,
Dan Anderson (RVRC)
Yesterday 20:32
The switch may need replaced. They can get stuck and even if it releases, it may happen again. There are many different types and styles of main switches, I will provide a link to some sites that carry a variety of switches. If you can’t find it, if you could give me the make, model and year of your RV and will see if I can track it down. You can always install a different type as well.http://www.rvpartscountry.com/RVSwitches
https://www.rvplus.com/electrical/plates-receptacles-and-switches/momentary-switches/
Hope this helps,
Dan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
I believe I have to replace my convertor as it is not charging my battery’s! Is there any tests I can perform to confirm this?
When I had no power into the 5th wheel [just purchased it] when hooked up to city power, I found the two 40 amp fuses burned out. When I try to put new ones in, I get a spark at the fuse box of the converter. When I disconnect the negative terminal of my batteries and then put the fuses into the converter, I get a spark at the negative terminal of the battery when I attempt to connect the 12 volt to the converter and then find the converter fuses blown again. Help!! My wife wants to go boondocking this week.
Hi Bob,
It sounds like you either have reverse polarity in the 12v system or a really bad short. Does the converter work with the battery being disconnected and the unit plugged into 120v? Check to make sure the battery is hooked up to the correct terminals, make sure the negative is going to a chassis ground. If that is ok, I would disconnect the battery and check the voltage on the battery itself. It may have reverse polarity coming out of the battery if it was discharged and then re charged when hooked up to the wrong connections. From there I would check the connections from the converter to the fuse panel, making sure they are correct. Check the connection to the breaker as well. Large sparks indicate large amp draw and if it is high enough to blow the fuse right away, there could be a bad short in the system as well. Again, check all wires and connections and make sure that there aren’t any wires with open insulation that are touching other wires or a piece of metal.
Hope this helps,
Dan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
toasted the circuit board this last weekend probably my fault, want to replace with like unit.
where can i get a schematic for this converter i replaced the wiring and when i hook up the converter to the wall plug it pops the fuse in the house and the ground and nuteural terminals seem to be on the same
I have a Fleetwood Wilderness 5th wheel camper, the converter is bad. The problem is I can not find it, I’ve looked and tore into a lot of places with no luck. Can someone please tell me where it is?
we can not figure out where the converter box is located
On my 34 foot fifth wheel when plugged into campsite power my lights, furnace range in power. Lights will go bright then dim then bright again. The furnace fan slows down and then speeds up. I have replaced the batteries so am stumped. Can you advise please, thanks
I have 50 amp service, 30 amp converter & I’m staying parked, I have no battery. With my AC, TV, Computer, stereo & refrigerator I’ve had to use the two 120 volt outlets at my service connection & run extension cords to the refrigerator & 1 circuit in the breaker box, it works but it’s sloppy. I’m handy but broke. Could I use a splitter on the 50 amp service & get two 30 amps. Plug one into the trailer main, disconnect the converter (when it’s not plugged in) & plug a new 50 amp or 75 amp converter into the other 30 amp connection on the splitter & the fuse panel to the new converter? Am I crazy? Thanks for any help! Ed
What converter to upgrade that will fit .
Looking for manuals….troubleshooting….may want to upgrade….
Is it possible to choose the perfect converter charger for my RV which is under $150? And what’s the brand you advise to consider? I’m really confused…
Thanks in Advance!
We have an iota ILC series load center and the fan runs continually on 110. How do I locate the fan sensor to see if that is needing replaced or do you have any other ideas as to what might be going on?
Can I change from a 30 amp converter to 45 without any problems
I have a 2003 Fleetwood Pioneer T19. I keep shoreline attached during winter. Last week, when I returned home from work, the running lights were all on. I disconnected the battery. and they went out. The next night, they came back on. I unplugged the shore line and they went off. No obvious wiring shorts/breaks, so I was wondering if I need to replace the inverter/charger?
Power converter is going out. What brand would be the best to replace it with?
Trying to locate the AC to DC converter on 2015 Forest River Wildcat 327CK. Where is it located and how do I access it?
Hello Dean,
Typically the converter or battery charger in travel trailers are located inside the distribution center as an all in one unit. We will email you a photo of a typical Progressive Dynamics version that is fairly common in most trailers and has the 120-volt circuit breakers and 12-volt fuses for all the appliances, lights, vents and other accessories. The converter is located to the right which is the vents that allow it to cool. The only way to access the converter is to remove the entire distribution center as they only want certified RV electricians working on them. Some models have a distribution center located in the living area and a separate converter placed somewhere else in the rig as they tend to run hot and have noise from the cooling fan. If your panel does not have vents, then you may have this type of model and the converter would look like the second photo we will email to you.
Thanks,
David RVRC Video Membership
Hello Dean,
Sorry for the delay in response, I actually went to the Forest River Display at the RVIA Louisville show and asked the product designer for the Wildcat and he did not know for sure! We looked at the floorplans they had on display, but the distribution center was in plain site on all three models so it wasn’t much help. He was going to go back to the factory and do some research but I have not heard anything yet? The AC to DC converter typically is packaged with the distribution center which has 120-volt circuit breakers and 12-volt DC fuses for the house battery system? Usually the distribution center is placed in an accessible location in a cabinet down by the floor. I’ve seen them in the pedestal under the dinette seat, in the kitchen under the refrigerator, even in an entrance step side cabinet. Some put it in the bedroom under the mattress in the pedestal. I’ve attached a photo so you can see what this looks like. If you have a system where the converter is separate, this is much harder to find as manufacturers will place the converter box in a cabinet under the refrigerator or other cabinetry and screw a cover plate over the opening so it looks like nothing is there. You should be able to plug the shoreline power in and listen for the hum of the fans?
Thanks,
David RVRC Video Membership
My Elixir, ELX-30, is faulty, and I would like to replace it with a better, updated converter/charger. The ELX-30 only has 2 AC breakers and 4 DC fuses, if that helps.
Convertor works for all electric components when plug into shore power but will not charge deep cycle batteries which r brand new. I have been charging them with a separate charger plug into the rv. Batteries will charge if the motor is running. Where is my Problem? I have taken it to 2 auto shop with no help. They say nothing is wrong should be charging but it not. Lights on pannel says battery drain after 3 or 4 day of being plug into shore power. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
is this the right type pf converter to leave on shore power without damaging the battery?
Hello Ronald,
Not sure what converter you are referring to as the article you referenced
shows 4 different models, all of which are ok to leave connected to
shoreline power.
Thanks,
David RVRC Video Membership
Hello I have had some trouble with my rv and converters. In the past 4 months I have had 3 converters go out in style, smoke and a loud pop. I am about to replace it for a fourth time and am trying to find information on what is going on. If there are any test I can run to see what is causing them to go out, or if I am just that unlucky. Thanks for any help in advance.
Hello David,
Do not put in another converter! Somewhere you have a surge in the
system or a short that needs to be identified before you blow out another
converter or worse! You will need to take it to a certified
technician that is familiar with your type of converter. Find the
make, model, and serial number and contact the company direct for a
technician in your area.
Thanks,
David RVRC Video Membership
We’d love to have you be a part of our community. We are convinced you will enjoy the benefits of becoming a member and having access to the best instructional how to videos and professional tips. We would like to offer you a special promotion for your first year membership.
http://go.rvrepairclub.com/C9733
Just did same thing. What did you discover ?? THANKS
I have factory inverter that dim 12 V lights regularly.The battery is new (just replaced) Hooked-up to shore power continually, what could be probable cause of 12V fluctuations? Thanks for your help.
Hello Carroll,
To provide more accurate troubleshooting information on your lights dimming issue we need the make and model of what you are calling your “inverter”, plus the make and model of your rig. Most RVs have a converter/charger that takes 120-volt power from the campground source or generator and routes through a distribution center with circuit breakers for 120-volt appliances. It is connected to a charger that can be part of the converter or a separate device with provides a 12-volt charge to the house batteries. The house batteries provide 12-volt power through automotive style fuses to interior lights, roof vents, water pump and LP appliances. An inverter is a device that takes 12-volt power and and provides 120-volt power for a TV in the smallest application up to the big boys that can run a refrigerator on 120-volt power. These larger inverters are actually inverter/chargers. So no matter what type you have, if your lights are dimming, the battery is losing power and since you indicated “The battery is new” it sounds like you have just one which might not have enough capacity to handle the 12-volt power draw you are experiencing? What typically happens is when the battery charger kicks on, it provides a high charge of about 14 volts and the lights get bright as the battery is getting/maintaining voltage. Once the charger senses the battery is charged, it usually goes into a low charge mode, which would allow the battery to drain down and if you have a high 12-volt draw, it will get down below 12-volts fairly fast which means the lights will dim. If this cycling happens frequently, it’s a good sign of a converter/charger going bad.
I would start by replacing the lights with LED bulbs to limit the draw. LEDs take almost 10 times less power! Then get a Battery Minder from Northern Tool as it will send high impact waves to the battery and condition it, not the high voltage of a typical charger.
Thanks,
David RVRC Video Membership
I just purchased this RV and I have noticed that there is a loud hum or buzz that occurs when it is plugged into a shore station (either 110 or 30 amp). I assume this is the power converter but is it normal for this to occur? It is actually quite loud. If not, what are my options for repairing it?
Hi Bill. To provide more specific troubleshooting information on the noise of your distribution center we need the make, model, and year of your rig. Older distribution centers had the converter/battery charger all in one location and the converter was very loud and very hot! Newer models have digital converters that are much quieter and some have the actual converter/battery charger in a different location so you don’t see or hear them much. One option is to purchase a Battery Minder from Northern Tool that will condition and charge your house batteries with little noise and no gassing and they claim to extend the life of the battery bank by 200 cycles as it reduces sulphation. You should simply turn off the circuit breaker for the converter and plug in the Battery Minder instead. Another option is to replace the converter with a newer digital model which is much more expensive.
Thanks
Dave-RVRC
I have a problem with the battery going dead on RV keystone cougar 318 any clues to look for
Hello Michael,
Check out the videos in the electrical section of the site, we have several on troubleshooting dead batteries, battery maintenance, and even checking the charging system. However, here is a list of items to check:
1. If you have only one house battery being used on a 31’ unit, it probably doesn’t have enough power to last very long? Check the amp/hours of the battery and look at what 12-volt power your need such as lights, LP appliances, roof vents and such. If you have the typical standard group 24 battery, you will need to upgrade to a more powerful battery or even two.
2. Is your battery going dead when plugged into shoreline power? If so, this would indicate you either have a converter that is not putting out enough charging power, or the battery has become sulfated and is not holding a charge. You can use a multi-meter to verify the charge of the converter by connecting the multi-meter to the battery and plugging the unit in. You should see the current battery voltage and then see the meter go up to 12.5-14 volts. If you do not see any increase on voltage, it could be a converter issue. If there is an increase, it could be your battery is no good…see #3
3. You need to check the storage capacity of your battery and how long they will hold a charge. The only way to really do this is charge the batteries and connect them to a 25 amp load machine and see if they last the appropriate hours. Most battery service centers will charge the batteries and connect them to a digital load center and tell you they are good or bad which is not a true measure of the capacity. Lead acid batteries must be charged/conditioned every month with a multistage charge which starts with a high impact charge that breaks up the sulphur between the cells and then goes into a float and equalizing charge. If you do not have an inverter/charger that has this feature, you are not properly charging your batteries and they will start to lose capacity in as little as 1 month! Chances are your battery is sulphated and doesn’t have 50% of it’s designed capacity? I would recommend replacing the battery with a larger amp hour size and getting a Battery Minder from Northern Tool. This product sends high impact waves into the battery and breaks up sulfation without the gassing and boiling of the first stage multi-charge. They claim it will extend the life of your battery by over 200 cycles! That’s 2-3 years.
4. Identify and reduce your amp draw. Knowing what is drawing power from your battery is important. Change the halogen, incandescent, and fluorescent bulbs with LED bulbs. They draw 10 times less power! Don’t leave the water heater on 24/7, it will continue to “cycle” meaning as the water in the tank gets cold, it turns on and heats it up. If you don’t need hot water, don’t let it burn up LP and battery power, just turn it on 10 minutes before you need to take a shower. Use a portable catalytic heater instead of the onboard heater in the areas you are “living” in most. Cook and heat up food/coffee on the campfire rather than the stove top. Use rechargeable devices such as fans and lights that can be recharged when you are connected to shoreline power or with the genset running.
5. Check for a parasitic drain. Even though you have shut every thing off for storage, there could still be something drawing power from the battery. It could be an LP leak detector, CO detector or radio. Pull the negative cable off the house battery, connect a multi-meter to the negative cable and the positive terminal on the 12-volt setting and you will be able to see if there is voltage. You can also use a simple 12-volt light meter.
Thanks,
David RVRC Video Membership
We’d love to have you be a part of our community. We are convinced you will enjoy the benefits of becoming a member and having access to the best instructional how to videos and professional tips. We would like to offer you a special promotion for your first year membership.
http://go.rvrepairclub.com/C8454
I am trying to find the location of my converter, I have searched the internet to no avail so far. the closest I found was its located either under the range (nope) or under the refrigerator. any help is much appreciated!!
Sean
Hello Sean,
Can you please provide us with the year make and model of your RV and we can look into this for you?
Thanks
Becky RVRC Video Membership
I am thinking of adding a “intelligent” trickle charger for my auxiliary batteries that now compose of 2 6 volt golf cart batteries, in series. Can I use a 12 volt trickle charger for both batteries connected in series?
Hello Stan,
Instead of a trickle charger like the Battery Tender, I would recommend getting a Battery Minder from Northern Tool. This will sense the battery condition and send high impact waves into the battery and helps keep them charged and conditioned. Just using the small trickle charger will not condition the batteries and they will become sulfated. And yes, you can connect either to the batteries as the 6-volt is connected in series which is the positive post of one to the negative post of the over creating a 12-volt system.
Thanks
David RVRC Video Membership
My electrical monitoring panel has started flashing the reading on the amps being used. It also sometimes shows obviously too high amp reading. What is causing the panel to flash?
My 2008 tour master we just bought ref. Will not cool when not plugged in to 110
I am upgrading my Xantrex 2000watt inverter/converter/charger to a Go Power 3000watt inverter and separate Go Power converter/charger. Since I have a generator, 50amp shore and all the relay hardware in place can I just replace the inverter and move the input AC to the Converter? Also can the battery leads just be paralleled to both devices?
I need to check my inverter but I can’t FInd it in my 2015 windsport 34F
Most of the larger inverters that also charge the batteries are placed in an underfloor compartment usually on the passenger side. Some are placed directly next to the house batteries as well. Are you sure you have an inverter? Most of these are an optional item unless you have a residential refrigerator? Another question is what is happening that you need to “check it”?
Inverter what do I replace it with
To provide more specific information on the proper replacement for your inverter we need to know the make, model, and year of your RV as well as the make and model of the inverter you are looking to replace. The most trusted in the industry are Xantrex, Progressive Dynamics, and Magnum so it depends on the size and what you want it to do, just inverter 12-volt power to 120-volt or charge the battery as well.
Can you recommeng a replacement converter/inverter mine is original
Hi, Carl. To provide more specific information on the approved converter/inverter we need the make, model, and year of your rig as well as the converter/inverter you are looking to replace.
What is the difference of an INVERTER and a CONVERTER. I believe mine is an inverter
Hi, Jeanne. A converter is basically a battery charger that is connected to the distribution center either as an “all in one” unit or a separate unit in newer rigs. 120-volt power comes into the rig from the shoreline cord either plugged into the campground source, or by generator. That power goes to the distribution center just like your home and powers 120-volt appliances such as the air conditioners, outlets, refrigerator on AC, and other appliances. These all have circuit breakers in the distribution center. One of the circuits sends 120-volt power to the converter which is a battery charger connected to the house batteries.
An inverter is a separate component that is usually placed in an underfloor location and will take 12-volt power from the house batteries and provide 120-volt power to appliances. Smaller inverters can be found in the entertainment center for the TV/DVD player. Larger ones will have 2000 + watts to power the refrigerator on 120-volt power and other appliances. These will also typically replace the converter as they have multi-stage chargers like the Freedom 2000 and other from Xantrex and others.
Hello, I am an Amateur radio operator and pack up my gear when I go camping. My issue is that the converter generates too much RF rendering my receiver useless unless
I shut it off and run on the generator. My question is, is there a converter available that
Doesn’t produce RF interference? Thanks, Jack.
Hi, Jack. To provide more specific information on a different converter or even a filter we need to know the make, model and year of your rig as well as the converter model? My first question is: Does your receiver operate on 120-volt power which I assume it does or 12-volt power? The puzzling part of your RF issue is the converter you refer to only charges the batteries either from a shoreline cord or the generator? Running the generator is no different than plugging it into shoreline, the same converter is still running? Are you maybe talking about an Inverter that takes house battery power and provides 120-volt power? This might be the issue? I would suggest contacting Progressive Dynamics here; http://www.progressivedyn.com/
They are the experts at converters and power issues.
We have 2 six volt batteries in the power system.When first looking things over, they looked to be sealed batteries like those in your car. Later, doing routine maint, the terminals were corroded so I removed the cables and cleaned everything up. In the process I discovered these are
not sealed like your car. Needless to say water was low in both . Topped off both and they seem to be OK on a recent 2000mile trip. Anything else I can do to insure their good “health” or extend their life??? Appreciate any suggestion
Hi, Joseph. These batteries are deep cycle batteries designed to provide a constant power for appliances and lights in your rig for a longer period of time. Sealed batteries are engine or Cold Cranking Amp (CCA) batteries designed to provide a high voltage start for a short period of time. Your 6-volt batteries are connected in series which is one positive post connected to the other batteries negative post creating a 12-volt system. Maintenance tips include checking the fluid level often, keeping the terminals cleaned, and proper charging which consists of a multi-stage charger. For more on that, visit the great blog on batteries here:
https://www.rvrepairclub.com/article/rv-battery-basics-beginners-guide/
My converter some times hums and some times whines with a higher pitch
What causes the whining noise?
Hi, Dennis. Converters have a small 3-4” fan that is designed to cool the interior components and typically will have 2 stages. The hum is a low speed cool down when the converter is not actually charging the batteries and the higher pitch sound is a the high speed mode to cool during charging. As the converter gets older, the bearings in the fan start to wear and the “higher pitch” will get louder. Very typical of distribution centers with the breakers and converter all in one place, usually the kitchen so it’s more noticeable than the units with the converter separate in a compartment.
How easy isit to changeout a converter?
Hi, Jim. To provide more specific information on changing out the converter in your unit we need to know the make, model, and year of the rig and what type of distribution center you have as there were several options over the year. Older models had everything in one place with a face panel that hinged down and 120-volt circuit breakers and 12-volt fuses visible. Underneath was the converter. This is a fairly easy swap if you have the correct 12-volt fuse block to match the new converter. There is a video on this in the Premium section. Some newer models have the converter separate of the distribution panel, sometimes located in an underneath compartment to hide the noise and heat.
I need to replace inverter charger ,..what upgrade do you recommend?
Hello Richard,
Here’s what the experts had to say about your question:
For an aftermarket upgrade I recommend getting one from Progressive Dynamics. They make many great products for the electrical system. Just make sure that when you upgrade that it is rated for the same amperage or higher than what you had before.
https://www.progressivedyn.com/power-converters-2/
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
As a rv tech I think this article is extremely important for rv owners and users to know abojt their battery’s. I see a lot of people that return back within a year that need new batteries and the biggest culprit is the customer themselves not properly maintaining them. And part of that is having the right converter/charger in their unit
I live almost exclusively on battery power, charging the batteries using my diesel genset or from the main engine while traveling. I have A/C units, residential refrigerator (not energy star rated), convection microwave, and wall outlets which power coffee maker, toaster, and electronics such as TVs, cellphone chargers, and laptop computer. My inverter/charger is rated 2,500 Watts and do not know if it is capable of multi-stage charging. In either case, I would like to see if I can upgrade to more power available from the inverter when on batteries (eight Series 8D AGM Deep Cycle type). The batteries are new, about a month old. Any suggestions apart from changing the refrigerator. I was told that current inverter/charger would fry circuit boards in new refrigerator.
Hi, William. WOW, you have a battery bank that most RVers would die to have if they had the space! I don’t think changing out the refrigerator to an “Energy Star” model will really make a lot of difference, just check the usage on the data plate. Most inverters over 2000 watts do have a multistage charger, however without knowing the make, model, and year I can’t be sure. I would suggest contacting Xantrex to upgrade your inverter. Here is the site: http://www.xantrex.com/industry-solutions/recreational-vehicles.aspx
And, the current inverter/charger should not fry the circuit boards in your new refrigerator as most larger inverter/charger provide true sine wave power which is cleaner than the raw, ripple power of a portable generator. You have obviously invested good money in 8 AGM batteries, it’s a good idea to talk to the experts at Xantrex for the right inverter.
Can you upgrade from a 50 amp converter to a 55 amp Smart converter without changing the electrical wiring
Company I out of business. Wonderful trailer, but I need owners info., e.g., type of converter, water drains, dryer prep location, etc. I’ve tried on-line with no luck. It is a 37 ft, 4-slide.
Hi, Gary. To provide more specific information on obtaining information on your rig we need the make, model and year. This has been a common problem with the RV industry over the years as manufacturing companies “pop up” in the good times and close down with no documentation or technical service available down the line. Most of the owners manuals from these companies were pretty much worthless as they were so generic they did not cover the type of converter, water drain locations, and other items. If it’s a 37’ with 4 slides I would guess you might have an Alfa See Ya? We should be able to find manuals on the appliances as they are still being used by other manufacturers.
change out power converter
Will this converter be comparable with my 2006 river forest wildcat rv