Getting Ready for Summer: How to Bring Your RV Out of Hibernation

With Mother Nature “teasing” us with on-again, off again spring-like weather, we start getting the itch to get our rigs ready for the summer camping season. Hopefully last fall you took the proper steps to drain the water system or add RV antifreeze, take out the house batteries, and batten down the hatches. Now it’s time to wake that sleeping giant from its long winter’s nap and get ready to hit the road!

Related Video: How to Winterize an RV

Depending on how you stored your rig last fall, there are different “first steps” that you will take. If you removed the batteries and have them in your garage, make sure you get them ready by doing a multi-stage charge prior to installing them back in the rig. Check out the videos in the electrical section on the site for this procedure.

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Next, if you have a cover, remove it and check all tires for proper inflation. It’s not uncommon for an RV tire to lose 2psi per week just sitting. Also check the sidewall for weather checking and the tread. This is also a good time to have the bearings checked and repacked on trailers.

Related Blog: RV Tire Care Tips: Don’t Take Your Tires for Granted

It’s also a good idea to thoroughly inspect the rig inside and out for leaks, gaps in sealant, and rodents. If you stored the vehicle inside, you probably will not see any moisture leaks; however you still want to check all the sealant and rubber trim such as slideroom seals. Check inside upper cabinetry for roof to sidewall leaks, the front and back caps, and especially the floor around the slideroom openings. If you see soft floors or moisture damage, get it taken care of immediately.

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If your slideroom has an awning cover, run the room out and check for condensation or even mold as it was stored. If it was closed wet, it could have black mold that needs to be cleaned. Same thing for any patio awnings as well – open the awning and dry or clean as needed.

Next, check all your appliances for loose connections and musty odors, and make sure they are clean and ready to start up in whatever mode they operate. Make sure any gas valve to the appliance is open, the circuit breaker is on, and any fuses are good. Here is where I take a little more caution by applying an approved LP leak solution to my refrigerator, stove, water heater, and furnace connections. You do not want to use soapy water as this is not recommended by the appliance manufacturers. This will bubble if there is a leak in the connection and give you a quick heads up to get it fixed.

Related Video: Checking for Leaks in an RV Propane Tank

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Hopefully you turned off the LP tank/s in the fall so now is the time to turn them back on…slowly! Your LP line has an excess flow valve that is designed to shut the line off if the flow through it exceeds normal operation in case of a break in the line. Opening the valve at the LP tank/cylinder can provide excess pressure and shut the valve. Now you can test the individual appliances.

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If you used RV antifreeze last fall, you will want to run fresh water through the system, opening each faucet and the toilet until clear water runs through. Keep in mind you’ll need to reinsert the water heater drain plug and turn the water heater bypass switch back if your rig is so equipped.

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If you used pressurized air to blow out the lines, you will need to run water through the system to purge the air in the lines. Make sure you close any drain valves in the dump station or in-line valves. Start by connecting the city water source first, this will purge the air and the RV antifreeze faster. Once you connect the city source, open each faucet, both hot and cold until a steady stream of clear water runs through. Make sure you open all faucets, shower, toilet, and exterior shower as well.

Related Video: Quick Release Adaptors for Your RV City Water Inlet

During this operation, visually inspect the water lines and connections underneath each location for leaks. Also look underneath the coach to see if any drain valves are still open. Now fill the fresh water tank to half and run the water pump through the same procedure. When you close a faucet after purging that line, check to make sure the water pump shuts off after pressurizing the line. If it doesn’t shut off, or “cycles” on and off, you have a valve open or a leak somewhere.

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Dump stations are generally low maintenance; however it’s a good idea to check a few areas before getting a surprise on your opening day dump! If you viewed the video on maintenance of your toilet and dump valves, you would have put some valve conditioner in the toilet and dump tanks to lubricate the rubber gasket at the spade valve. If not, you will definitely want to check the seal of those valves with clean water! If the valves are not sealing properly, you will have black and gray water leaking past the valve and when you open the cap to connect the sewage hose… YUCK! Check the valves and get the aftermarket cap that has the small water hose cap. And check your sewer hose – freezing temperatures can snap a hose easily and cause some major cleanup.

Related Video: RV Dump Valve Troubleshooting

You’ll also want to visually inspect the typical operation of your entrance steps, TV antenna, satellite dish, roof vents, and other items. Make sure to change the batteries in the smoke detector and CO detector, and check the function of the LP leak detector too.

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And the last item which I feel is the most important… check your fire extinguisher. Take your fire extinguisher out, turn it upside down, and hit the bottom to dislodge and mix the solution. This should be done yearly otherwise it will settle and “cake” in the bottom and will not be efficient. Just because the gauge is in the green, doesn’t mean it will work properly.

Overall, if you take the time to properly winterize your rig, it makes it easier to bring it back out for summer use. Here’s to the summer season!

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Discussion
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57 Responses to “Getting Ready for Summer: How to Bring Your RV Out of Hibernation”
  1. Jeanne Ellis

    Nothing comes out of the black or gray dump hose. The water is all clean, we haven’t used the toilet but we have flushed it ,and run the faucet in the sink.????

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi Jeanne. Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club site. You indicated you do not get anything out of the black and gray water dump hose? The black water and gray water tanks are emptied through solid plastic pipe going to a valve that the dump hose hooks to. The hose is typically a corrugated hose that condenses for storage and extends for dumping and hooks to the outlet pipe. I assume you are referring to the actual black and gray water pipe going to the valve? If your hose is clean and you are not getting any water after opening the valves, then you have stuck or broken valves. If your rig is a travel trailer or 5th wheel, usually the valves are hidden underneath the rig and long extension handles are run to the side of the rig for accessibility. Often times these handles simple bend when pulled or pushed and it seems like you opened the valves when they are not. You might have to crawl under the rig to verify?

      Reply
  2. Kayts

    Thank you for this great site…we are first timers and you mentioned a lot of things we never thought of when we start opening up…..we used your list for closing it up last winter but its been a long winter.

    Reply
  3. Jerry

    My furnace fan runs continuous. Must remove the fuse to shut it off. Any suggestions?

    Reply
    • RV Repair Club Team

      Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club site and the opportunity to assist with your furnace issue. You did not indicate the year or model of your furnace so it could be a variety of issues. First, check your thermostat for an on/off switch at the bottom. If it’s an Atwood furnace and you run out of propane with the switch on, the blower will run all the time. It’s a tough switch to get at so it might be hard to move. If you have propane and the furnace is actually blowing hot/warm air continuously, then it’s probably a faulty thermostat. Some residential thermostats have a fan switch on the bottom with an on/off position. In the off position, the fan only runs when the furnace is running. In the on position, the fan runs continuously moving or “cycling” warm and cool air throughout the house. Great for homes, not so good for RVs, make sure it’s in the off position. (ZD: 3564)

      Reply
  4. scott ketchel

    i have a winnebago view that annoyingly says “speed warning” when you get 5 mph over speed limit. Does anyone know how to get rid of this ?

    Reply
    • RV Repair Club Team

      Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club. Usually the speed warning signal is coming from the GPS part of the electronic system? You should be able to reset it at a higher speed. Instructions would be in the GPS manual rather than the Mercedes regular operation manual. (ZD: 3662)

      Reply
  5. Frank

    I opened unit last week and refrig had a brown syrupy looking substance inside, I left door open a crack to avoid mold? What is brown stuff and where does it come from, thank you very much.

    Reply
    • Frank

      “Your comment is awaiting moderation” What does that mean? Hope this is not a dumb question but this has been on for days. Thank you

      Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi Frank. Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club. You did not provide the make, model and year of the refrigerator or RV, however I assume it’s an absorption (RV) type vs a compressor driven (residential) type? The absorption models have a cooling unit attached to the back of the ref and heat drives the liquid up the cooling unit into the freezer section gravitates to the main box so if it was stored, there should be no fluid that comes from that part of the refrigerator. Often times refrigerators are put into storage without defrosting the entire unit and the evaporator fins usually have some type of freezing build up. This melts and drips down the side walls of the refrigerator or drips onto the metal racks and a small amount of rust forms and then drips to the bottom. In the spring when temps increase and the liquid evaporates, it darkens and collects more bacteria/mold if the door is open. If it’s on the bottom, clean it out well with a bleach solution and next winter put a tub of Damp Rid in the bottom.

      Reply
  6. lawrence

    I have a older onan generator it only run as long as ihold start button

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi Lawrence. Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club site. To provide more specific troubleshooting information I would need to know the model and year of your generator and the rig as well. If you have to hold the start button to keep it running then I doubt the generator is actually running, rather the starter is turning the engine over and it sounds like it’s running, maybe sputtering for a little during the time but this will burn out your starter. The basics of troubleshooting a generator are gas and spark. Not sure if this is an onboard supplied by the gas tank, or portable, but make sure you have enough fuel. Some motorhomes require at least 1/2 full tank! Next, take the plug out and ground it to something on the generator and crank it to verify spark. If you have fuel and spark, then you probably have a varnished carb and will require additional service.

      Check out the videos on the site…go into the search feature and type in generator and you’ll find several free version on troubleshooting.

      Hope this helps.

      Reply
  7. Lynda

    When l turn on the air conditioner a very bad order comes out could there be a dead animal up there if so what do l do

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi, Lynda. Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club site and the opportunity to assist with your air conditioning issue. To provide more specific information, I need to know the make, model, and year of your RV and roof ac. If it’s a ducted roof ac unit, there could be something that crawled up into the duct and died like a mouse? About the only thing you can do to rid it is remove a vent and try to fish a vacuum hose through the duct. It could also be a smell coming from the compressor or motor of the unit that might have gone bad? Try to identify the smell, is it a burnt smell like oil or metal or sewer like decay? Another option for ducted roof ac units is to purchase or rent a snake video camera and see if you can find something in the ducts? They have become fairly affordable with units at Harbor Freight for about $90 and most home improvement stores carry some as well.

      Reply
  8. Emma

    We have just taken our RV out of storage. Upon running the hot water system we get a foul smell what causes this and how do we fix it?

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi, Emma. Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club site and the opportunity to assist with your water smell issue. Typically the fresh water you use in both the water heater and fresh water tank comes from a campground source and is generally not soft water, rather water from a well with many minerals that when left sitting for the winter can cause some nasty smells. It’s possible that you have high levels of bacteria as well. There are some products on the market such as Thetford’s water treatment products however I would also suggest using the old fashioned method of 1/4 cup bleach to 1 gallon of water and make about 8 gallons of this and run it through your entire system. Let is sit for a day as well as many of the plastic water lines need to get refreshened as well.

      Reply
  9. Emma Cardey

    The turn signals are not working but the flashers do work as well as all other lights what could the trouble be??

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi Emma. Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club site and the opportunity to assist with your light problem. To provide more specific troubleshooting information I need to know the make of the RV, model, and year. If your rig is a trailer, you have a 5 or 7 pin connection and the hazard lights are a different pin than the turn signals and we can isolate the wires. If it’s a motorhome, then we have to verify the individual wires at the assembly.

      Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi, Emma. Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club site and the opportunity to assist with your turn signal. To provide more specific troubleshooting information I need to know the make, model, and year of your RV and what chassis you have. In the mean time, here are a few basic troubleshooting ideas. First check your 12-volt automotive fuse. Depending on the type of vehicle, turn signals could be on a separate fuse that your other lights. Second check your turn signal relay. This is typically a small block with pins located in the fuse panel but sometimes under the dash. If these are all good, it’s probably in the switch.

      Reply
  10. Maureen

    I just have a question hoping someone will know the answer. We have a 2014 Vengeance Toy hauler and the whole one side of the outside hard wall is cracked. Wondering if anyone knows why this would happen.

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi, Maureen. Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club and the opportunity to assist with your sidewall issue. If the fiberglass outer skin has a crack running the entire length it is most likely due to stress applied from the undercarriage twisting? The only way to tell is contact a Forest River dealership or the factory direct and conduct an alignment check of the framework. Forest River only offers a 1 year warranty to the original owner, however this may be a case they would get involved on a good will basis? This is not a very common problem.

      Reply
      • sam

        RV Make: forest river, RV Year: 2013

        goodwill from forest forget that heres a list of problems i,ve had & there response. total brake failure & worn out shoes, during 1st year. every part on axil had to be replaced. there response i pulled the 5th wheel with the brakes engaged . would not cover. my cost several hundred dollars. ever tried to pull a 5th wheel with brakes engaged & not be able to tell it? kitchen water holding tank clasped & had to be replaced,cause– air vent was put in drain under sink.they did take responsibility for this but took most of summer to fix because sending wrong tank several times. caulking need to replace some bad. on speaker phone i heard the order placed & the lady in cs said they only had enough for the campers they were building & would send some when they had extra. this is a diamond series rig, you can,t pick up that color of caulk at your local hardware store. 3 years now & no caulk. cs says none was ever ordered, i know better but so what send me the caulk i need! last summer i noticed delamanation at overhang & now on slid out & also on other side. most starting at frames windows ,but not all. had dealer check for possible cracks or holes. there are none. there response at first notification unit is 3 yrs old sorry. so in in airing my disgust with forest river, good luck with your problem. don,t be surprised they say unit was not level & caused frame to twist during the winter causing the wall to crack.

        Reply
  11. Mary Lou Tuckness

    I am a widow left with a 37ft.class A motor home, can’t get it started, what is wrong?

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi, Mary. Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club and the opportunity to assist with your motorhome issue. To provide more specific information I need to know the make, model, year, and chassis manufacturer. Also, does it crank over and won’t start, or nothing happens when you turn the key? If nothing happens, you will need to check the batteries. It may be the batteries were disconnected when the unit was last put into storage?

      Reply
  12. Albert

    RV Make: Starcraft, RV Model: AR-ONE 18QB, RV Year: 2016

    We are newbies to RV’ng and didn’t get the most thorough of demonstrations after purchase (retained even less). We were wondering if anyone could provide a step-by-step instruction (pix would be greatly appreciated) on how to sanitize the fresh water tank system, winterize the camper, and prepare it for use in the spring. We have found some videos and blogs, but they pertain to other campers and not the Starcraft AR-One which seems to be different is several respects.

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi, Albert. Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club site and the opportunity to assist with your winterizing question. Sanitizing the fresh water tank can be done in one of two ways. First use household bleach and pour about 5-6 cups of bleach into the gravity fill which will go to your fresh water tank. Then fill the tank to about 2/3 full and drive the unit around for a few minutes to mix everything up. Next, turn on the water pump and run the bleach solution through every faucet, line, and even the shower. Run it until you smell the bleach coming out. Then let the unit sit over night, this will sanitize the tanks and lines then you can drain everything and put in fresh water. The bleach smell will dissipate in a couple of days. You can also use the fresh scent bleach that doesn’t have the chlorine smell. Also, thetford makes a fresh water tank deodorizer which you can get at any RV supply company. Use the same method with this.

      As for winterizing, there are several videos on the site that will show you the procedure which should be the same in your Starcraft. Either blow out the lines using an air compressor set at 40 psi, or fill the water tank with about 5 gallons of RV antifreeze, turn on the water pump, and open faucets one at a time until the pink stuff comes out! Make sure there is no existing water in the tank, just straight antifreeze! Hopefully your unit has a water heater bypass, otherwise you’ll need another 6 gallons!

      Reply
  13. Donna G

    RV Make: Georgetown XL 360, RV Year: 2014-15

    This would pertain to any water heater I suppose. My husband isn’t home to tell me the Brand and Model#
    We had our motorhome winterized, when they de-winterized we put right back into storage. Didn’t camp until August 8th. Filled up water and turned on hot water and it stunk awful. Guess the dealer didn’t drain the water heater like we asked and paid him to do when it was winterized. Appreciate any help you can give us.

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi Donna. Thanks for joining the RV Repair Club and the opportunity to assist with your hot water odor issue. The smell could be from two things, stale water sitting in the water heater without oxygen and anaerobic bacteria letting off hydrogen sulfide which is the rotten egg smell. The other could be a deteriorated anode rod. Take the drain plug out and see if it has an anode rod that needs to be replaced. Otherwise, put 5 cups of bleach in your holding tank and fill it with at least 20 gallons of water. Then run the solution through the water heater and let it set for 24 hours. This will eliminate the smell and then dump the system and flush it with fresh water.

      Reply
  14. Michelle

    RV Make: Jayco, RV Model: White Hawk, RV Year: 2012

    When our AC comes on it smells like oil. Anyone know why or what to do? Thanks.

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi, Michelle. Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club site and the opportunity to assist with your AC question. The first thing I would check is the return air filter. Depending on the model, it will either be in a separate “grated” vent on the ceiling, or on the unit itself. Make sure that is clean and has good air flow. Next, check to make sure the spring loaded mount bolts are tight. Take off the inside surrounding shroud/frame and you will see the bolts at the corners. The torque setting should be listed in your owner’s manual, however I just make sure they are hand tight. If they are loose, you could be getting air and moisture from the outside? Check the cooling fins on the back of the AC unit to ensure they are not flatted out or clogged with something which would make the unit run less efficient. Otherwise you might have a freon leak in the system which has oil in it and will give that smell which would require inspection by a certified technician.

      Reply
  15. susan

    RV Make: jayco, RV Model: granite ridge, RV Year: 2002

    The wide painted rubber trim on the back of my camper is peeling off, hanging down. I have some adhesive, but the strip is too short now. I am also afraid water might have seeped in along the plastic molding on the corner. Any suggestions appreciated. Thank you

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi Susan. Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club site and the opportunity to assist with your trim piece issue. I would suggest contacting your dealer or manufacturer to get a new piece of trim. Over time, the constant exposure to UV rays will dry the rubber components actually make them shrink. Take the old trim off and inspect for damage, most of the back trim pieces are not water sealant trims?

      Reply
  16. Mark

    RV Make: Keystone, RV Model: Springdale 179, RV Year: 2014

    How do you get antifreeze into the black tank rinse inlet?

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi Mark. Thank you for visiting the RV Repair Club and the opportunity to assist with your black water rinse question. To winterize the rig, you only need to put a little RV antifreeze down the toilet and shower drain to protect the valve in the black and gray water tank. You do not need antifreeze in the black water rinse or flush valve as it’s simply a female connection on the outside and sprayer on the inside which does not hold or trap water so it will not get damaged in cold weather.

      Reply
    • John

      RV Make: Jaycee, RV Model: DS31, RV Year: 2016

      The bedroom slide out when extended in the rain leeks onto the floor inside on the inside . The dealer advised we just slightly till the camper down somewhat on that side. but proper levelling seems important to us.
      Would a slide awning help ? We don’t have one right now.
      Thanks for you help.
      John.

      Reply
      • Customer Service

        Hi John. You are correct, proper leveling is important for the refrigerator to operate properly and also to create a level base or chassis. You should always level and stabilize the rig before bringing the sliderooms out! If your base or chassis is not level, the sidewalls can get slightly twisted and your slide room “fights” the misalignment going in and out. I would suggest checking your seals all the way around the room to make sure nothing has pulled away from the flange, check inside seals on the flange that should push against the wall frame, and underneath. Yes an awning would help, but is probably masking the problem. Another thing to check is the squegge or flap between the room and the sidewall. Most manufacturers have this 2” flap that not only wipes the room off as it comes in, but is designed to help keep moisture out when extended. I’ve seen several models where the flap does not “switch” or move to the direction of the motion and moisture can get in that area. We did a video on installing a small piece of weatherstrip vertically on the side of the room and as the room goes in and out, it actually pushed the flap to the correct direction.

        Reply
  17. John

    RV Make: Damon, RV Model: Challenger, RV Year: 2010

    Best sealant for sealing the inside of the shower. I have removed all of the old cracked sealant. I purchased PROFLEXRV sealant. Is this acceptable for sealing the shower?

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      There are two types of caulk used for sealing a variety of components in RVs and almost everyone calls them “Silicone”. Acrylic latex caulking is popular because it is easy to use, cleans up well with water, and is paintable. True silicone caulk remains more flexible and is and more impervious to moisture over time, but is not paintable due to the moisture resistance. The data sheet on the PROFLEXRV shows it’s paintable but does not show the type of component? I would recommend buying a silicone based caulk from you local home improvement store that is designed for bathroom/kitchen and is moisture and mold resistant.

      Reply
  18. Larry Chambers

    RV Make: 5th Wheel, RV Model: Sea Breeze, RV Year: 1998

    Please advise how you would add your bleach to your fresh water tank to sanatize your water system. The problem I have is my water tank fill is a pressurized type (just like your city water hookup) not a pour in type. Any ideas on how to add the bleach would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      If you have the closed system, you should still have a gravity feed
      somewhere? I do know that for a couple years Winnebago engineers did
      not have one and there were quite a few complaints about adding
      antifreeze! If you do not have a gravity feed to pour it into, use
      the winterizing valve and tube. If you do not have one of those, I
      suggest installing one as you will eventually need it for antifreeze as
      well.

      Reply
  19. Chuck Gosch

    RV Make: Winnibago, RV Model: 36WL-P, RV Year: 1998

    What size batteries are recommended for the Cummins engine? Don’t have unit close by, and will need to take 2 12 volt batteries to get it started.

    Reply
  20. Dee

    RV Make: Coachman, RV Model: Catalina 1/5 wheel, RV Year: 1995

    Where is the manual crankout for my slide-out. I’ve purchased this used unit.

    Reply
  21. Joe

    RV Make: Fifth Wheel, RV Model: Rockwood, RV Year: 2017

    We just started out. And I had the dealer do the full winter set. OK, I been looking every where on what to do myself to start for the summer to start again to go camping? Tell me how to do it without taking it back into the dealer cost again. Thanks. Joe

    Reply
  22. Nathan

    RV Make: winnebago, RV Model: voyage, RV Year: 2005

    I have a drivers door with a window over it. It leaks and now has the inside behind the door damp how do I fix this and get it sealed back up
    thank you

    Reply
  23. Charlene

    RV Make: Yoder Toter, RV Model: Silver Shadow Teardrop, RV Year: 2006

    Hi I am looking for some information about bringing luster/shine into my aluminum siding now that summer is nearly here…suggestions appreciated. I see picture and stories but no details about making trailers look amazing.

    Reply
  24. Rena

    RV Make: allegro, RV Model: tippen, RV Year: 1987, Brand: onan, Model Number: 4000

    hen i start generator it starts but doesnt keep running

    Reply
  25. Chuck

    RV Make: Keystone, RV Model: Montana, RV Year: 2005

    my bathroom switches are not working and fan

    Reply
  26. Kenneth

    RV Make: Airstream , RV Model: Sport 16’, RV Year: 2017, Brand: Airstream , Model Number: Sport 16J

    Servicing wheel bearings

    Reply
  27. Jerry

    RV Make: Ragen, RV Model: stryker 4005, RV Year: 2008

    Need to know how to replace the outside lower wall with aluminum or sheet medal.

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hello Jerry,

      This is a fairly major repair and not something easily described in a Q&A such as this. Most of the aluminum skin used on RVs is called Mesa which is ribbed and connected with a “Pittsburg” seam created by a special machine. If you are going to attempt this on your own, I would recommend hiring someone from a metal fabrication facility or someone from a plumbing and heating source that has metal working expertise and a metal crimper that might be able to fabricate a fastening method.

      Thanks,
      David
      RV Repair Club Video Membership

      Reply
  28. Scott

    RV Make: Crossroads Cruiser, RV Model: CK29, RV Year: 2007

    When running the water from the fresh water tank there is little pressure and it wants to suck the the line flat. If I put the line for winterizing in a five gallon bucket it draws fine and pressure returns. The RV has a cover running the entire length so I haven’t seen the water tank. RV is new to me and the original owner said he never used the fresh water tank and in fact never had water in it.

    Reply
  29. nopressure

    RV Make: Coachman, RV Model: 298rls, RV Year: 2018, Brand: Chapparel, Model Number: 298RLS

    Not getting air flow in the heat cycle in the living room back vent

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hello,

      To provide more specific troubleshooting information on your air flow issue we need the make, model, and year of your RV and what specific “heat cycle” appliance you are having an airflow issue? If it’s the furnace and a vent that is supplied with a ribbed tube, it’s probably a kink in the tubing? If it’s a heat strip for a ducted roof air, then that is a difficult issue to troubleshoot without a hands on inspection.

      Thanks,

      David
      RV Repair Club Video Membership

      Reply
  30. Kim

    RV Make: 1991 coachmen catalina, RV Model: Coachmen catalina

    I’m just trying to find out video to show me how to put a new battery in, to get it started to move it about 8 miles

    Reply