Whether you’re living the RV lifestyle or you’re just using your rig as a rolling hotel, there are still parts of your home life that you won’t want to give up, and favorite television shows are near the top of the list for most people. You may be in the most beautiful wilderness in the world, but when Thursday night rolls around, you want to kick back and watch your favorite TV night entertainment. Unfortunately, if you’ve got a weak antenna you might miss out on a big cliffhanger.
An RV antenna booster can help avoid that problem before it even starts. It increases the signal strength that’s drawn into your RV antenna, increasing the number of channels you have and the clarity of the picture on whatever you’re watching.
In this video, you’ll learn how to install an RV antenna booster on your existing RV antenna with only a few simple tools. In just a few moments you’ll successfully increase your signal strength with a job a complete novice can do with no problems. In addition, you’ll learn about maintenance jobs you should do while working on the antenna: how to check the coax connection, what to do if the boots covering the connection are beginning to crack, and how to check the waterproof seal between the RV roof and the antenna pole. In just a matter of minutes, you’ll have a safer setup, plus an RV antenna booster that will make all your family members happy with the increased television reception you’ll get.
Does it work on my low-wing-like antenna? I don’t have the one that raises up. I have a 2014 Winnebago Adventurer.
This booster is only made to attach to the exact model in the video. If you don’t have the Winegard Sensar IV antenna, it will not work. If yours doesn’t raise up, it most likely work on your antenna.
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What if your RV does not come with an antenae? Are they available to add?
Hi Donald. You can always add something. You would just need to drill through the roof or find another way to run a cable down to the TV. Going down an existing vent is the easiest way of doing this. You want to get an omnidirectional antenna. This means it picks up channels in all directions. You don’t want an antenna that needs to turn or you will have to install more components on the inside and it could make installation a lot more difficult. You also don’t want to install one that needs power, you would then have to run power wires. The easiest way to install is to go down a vent like a fridge or a vent pipe. You can run the cable down the roof, down the vent, and then drill a hole or remove a panel to access from the inside. This is totally custom depending on where you want the cable line to end up. You can also run it down the side and go into the camper from underneath. There are many options depending on what you would like to do. You can also get a portable antenna and place it in a window as well, I will share a link talking about these.
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Can u put this on a 2017
What is the make and model of your RV?
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Is this supposed better than the flat HD antenna that is supposed to be better for HD channels? Also, how critical is the aiming aspect of both antenna or should one use both in conjunction for the best possible reception?
Dear T Mark,
Thank you for your patience. In response to your question-
The wingman antenna adapter works about the same as the flat antenna you can install. The wingman can just be added to the the existing antenna whereas the flat antenna would have to replace the head of the old style “batwing”. They both work very well to get better reception and are nice add-ons. Both style antennas do have to be aimed towards towers to get better reception. They are directional so placement is important for good reception. You always want to make sure the antenna booster on the inside of the RV is always turned on as well, it helps pull in a better signal. Using the RV booster and changing the direction of the antenna helps to get the better signal. I hope this helps! Here is a video talking about the wingman:https://www.rvrepairclub.com/video/wingman-boosts-the-reach-of-your-rv-tv-antenna-007780/
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One way to keep moisture is to use dielectric grease at the connection. This is the same material that should be used with a trailer to tow vehicle connector. It helps displace water (keep it out) and will carry the signal without effecting it. I’ve used it on ham radio gear and never have had water or corrosion in any connectors I’ve used it in. Also, the normal connectors used on the coax are designed for indoors. I have used weather resistant (nothing is weather proof) of the same type used in making coax connections to satellite dishes at home. These compression connectors, when properly installed with the correct tool (available through Amazon or home stores) will last for years of sun, rain, snow and wind. My experience is they actually outlast the sheathing of the coax, which will break down from weathering.
$30.00 waste of money. Only help to increase UHF channels if it even does that. I noticed NO difference in the increase of channels or quality of reception. Sorry Winegard but it is what it is.
I got a Fleetwood Bounder that the privies owner replaced the antenna and it leked. how do I repair the heed liner where the water damage is?
It depends on the extent of the water damage? If it’s a fabric headliner and just stained, try using some Wilkins brand cleaner or other type of cleaner for pet stains at a pet supply store. If it’s a plywood with wallpaper or vinyl with rubber backing and it has delaminated then you will need to replace the material. If the damage is not to large, you can get a plastic decorative “plate” at a home improvement store that is circular and will cover the area? They are commonly used for ceiling fans or light fixtures that need to be replaced with bad drywall.
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My “Jacks Down” indicator with siren will not go off on the dashboard even after checking that they are completely up. It is tough driving with that blaring noise. Any suggestions?
What is the year and make of your RV?
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Are there any boosters for stationery tv antennas?
Hi, Dan. There are boosters available for RV antennas, however I’m not sure what you mean by “Stationary TV Antenna”? The old style crank up antennas were commonly called a “batwing” as they had a vertical post and a horizontal wing and usually needed an amplifier. The newer models such as the Winegard Rayzar models are considered stationary as they are a pedestal with the round or triangle top and do not need to be raised and lowered. These models already have the booster or amplifier incorporated so there is no add on or aftermarket booster. These models have twice the signal strength of the older “batwing”.
Trying to ci,f that tv antenna booster in the video and i am having no luck help please.
Hi, Mike. I think they are trying to find that TV antenna booster? According to the link it’s “An RV Antenna Booster Brings in Twice the Signal to Your Television “ which is not a title on the site? It could be the wingman that attaches to the older bat wing models, or the new Razar Air that replaces the bat wing model? Neither one brings in twice the signal, it extends the reach of a signal twice the distance.
Will this help with the picture when the ac or furnace comes on I alway lose the signal
Hi Andy. I contacted my technical source at Winegard, the leader in television antennas for RV and here is what he had to say:
To answer your question – it would help but in a somewhat indirect way. It sounds like the AC or furnace coming on is creating electrical noise that will interfere with the signal. The TV looks at this in a signal-to-noise ratio, where a lower ratio is worse (ie: more noise to signal).
Where the Wingman will benefit is adding gain to the UHF frequencies. This will result in a higher signal, and thus, a better signal-to-noise ratio (more signal to noise).
It is worth noting that this is not a guaranteed fix – there might be too much noise interference for the Wingman’s signal increase to overcome, but it is worth a shot
Having worked in electrical/electronics, when using graphite lubricant great care must be taken around electrical components. Graphite is an electrical conductor, therefore it can cause a serious electrical/signal short.
If the coax cable is bad how can you replace it without tearing your ceiling apart?
Hi Rita, Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club and for the opportunity to assist with your coax cable issue. Some RV manufacturers place a tube or “raceway” in the ceiling that allows technicians to pull the old cable out and use an electrician’s fish tape. Disconnect your coax from the roof antenna and loosen the sealant holding it into the roof cavity. If you can pull it slightly, have someone inside the coach disconnect the coax from the switch box or TV depending on the setup and see if tugging it “pulls” the coax up to the roof. If so, simply cut the end of and tape a new coax, without the end, in-line with the old one and pull it through. It helps to have someone inside assist with feeding the line.
If not, you have 2 choices,
1. Connect a new coax to the antenna outside on the roof and run the coax from the antenna to the front cap. The coax can be secured to the roof with cable tie connectors that have a base plate mounted to the roof and a small zip tie, or plastic hook that holds the cable in place. These can be found at any home repair store in the electrical department and are commonly used by RV technicians when installing an aftermarket satellite dish. At the front of the unit, you’ll need to drill a hole to insert the coax so it comes inside the rig into the front overhead compartment where the old cable was at. I usually drill from the inside so I know that I’m inside the cabinet. Verify there are no electrical wires, both 120 volt and 12-volt for clearance lights. Use a good lap sealant recommended by your RV manufacturer for rubber or fiberglass.
2. Connect a new coax to the antenna outside on the roof like above, however run the coax to the closest side of the rig and drill a hole to run the coax inside to a side cabinet. This will reduce the amount of cable up on the roof, but will require securing it to the roof to sidewall corner and drilling holes from cabinet to cabinet. If you have an entrance door between cabinets, use a piece of corner round molding from home improvement store to cover it between the opening. Run the coax up to the front and some in from the side of the cabinet and connect.
Personally I like the outside method because it’s easier. Either way, make sure you use the RG-6 which is better for the digital signal and especially HD. Plus, this would be a good time to look at moving the TV location? If your unit has the TV up front and you want to install a flat screen TV somewhere else in the unit, just run the coax to that part of the coach rather than the front. If you have an entertainment center with switcher and DVD player, all that needs a new home as well. Good luck and happy camping. Dave