Proper Inflation
Most RV owners inflate tires to the PSI (pounds per square inch) stamped on the side of the tire which is actually the maximum pressure at maximum weight or GVWR rating! Proper tire pressure can only be found by weighing each wheel individually and checking the tire manufacturer’s chart for dual or single application. This is different from most passenger cars as the weight of your RV can be substantially higher once you put all your “stuff” inside. If your rig is not loaded to maximum capacity, you will be overinflating the tire by using the number on the sidewall and have less tread on the ground which will affect stopping and maneuvering.
Checking Pressure
The next step to proper tire maintenance is physically checking tire pressure EVERY time you hit the road. Just glancing at the “bulge” in the tire or hitting the tire with a trucker’s bat is not good enough, especially on larger rigs. If your tires are 10 PSI less than recommended pressure you reduce your weight carrying capacity by 25%! And you cannot visually tell the difference between tires that are 10 PSI difference in most cases. Get the gauge out and get the gauge tested by a certified tire shop yearly. I like the Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) that have a wireless feed to a screen inside the drivers compartment that not only tell me the pressure of the tire (inside dual included) but also the tire temperature. Well worth the price of a tire blowout.Sidewall Inspection
When we drive our cars and trucks on a daily basis the centrifugal force pushes softening components from the rubber to the outside of the tires and keeps them from drying out. On an RV we often drive to a specific location and let them sit for days, weeks, months! This prolonged exposure to the elements dries out the sidewall and develops cracking known as weather checking. It’s important to inspect the sidewall periodically for weather checking. Also, if you want to make the sidewall “shine” with an aftermarket spray, make sure it has no alcohol components or others that will enhance the drying effect. And cover the tire if it will be exposed to the elements for longer than one week.
5th wheel rear axel has uneven wear. The inside is wearing. Left tire is worse the the right
Hello. Normally inside wear is caused by either overload of weight on the axle or there is an issue with the axle itself. I would look at the camber of the axle and compare it to the front axle to see if it is different. The camber is the arch of the axle in the center. If you look at the axle in the middle, it should be raised up in the center and bow down at the sides. If the axle is straight across, it lost it’s camber and will cause wear on the inside of the tires. If it is happening to both sides, most likely this is the issue and the axle needs replaced. It is best to take to a local axle service center and have them check the dimensions to see if the axle is within specs or not.
Dan
RV Repair Club
I have a 2016 ACE 29.3 Class A with a Xantrex PRO Inverter. I noticed After boon docking over night the Engine doesn’t charge the house batteries. But if I connect to shore power to charge the house batteries then disconnect from shore power before starting the Engine then the Engine charges the House batteries ?
How can I resolve this ? It seems like the Isolator is wired wrong ?
Hello Mark,
Thank you for contacting us.
It doesn’t sound like it’s wired wrong since they do get a charge sometimes. It sounds more like a relay isn’t activating when it is supposed to. The engine has an isolator switch that activates when the ignition is turn on and it connects the house batteries to the engine batteries. When the ignition is turned off, it cuts this connection. When you are running the engine the only thing charging the batteries is the alternator. The inverters and converters only come into play when plugged into 120v shore or generator. These don’t do anything for charging when the engine is running. The inverter takes battery power and turns it into 120v for certain circuits to operate, typically for a residential fridge or a few circuits. If you have a lot running off of the inverter the alternator might not be charging fast enough to keep up with the demand. If the batteries aren’t charging while the engine is running you will have to find and troubleshoot the isolater switch. This switch is usually found in the engine compartment. It has a terminal for the ignition switch wire and then two connections for the battery. There are some with more terminals for other activating switches but only two for the batteries. If it was wired wrong, there would be other issues as well so I don’t believe that is the issue but you would have to find the switch and check the connections to find out.
If you have any other questions, please chat, email, or call Customer Service.
Sincerely,
Sarah
RV Repair Club Video Membership
Tire pressure front and rear
My Michelin tires have a 120 psi rating. That’s the maximum inflated pressure? So should I run the tires on 100 to 110, particularly since I’ll be driving through the southwest?
Hello Thomas,
Here’s what the experts had to say about your question:
We have a great video going over this very issue. I will share the link below and also a link that is mentioned in the video on how to determine the best PSI for travel.
https://www.rvrepairclub.com/video/optimal-rv-tire-pressure-015000/
https://rvsafety.com/tools/tire-inflation-tables
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
RV Tire Care Tips
what tire pressure should I have
Hello Michael,
We would love to answer this expert question for you but I would need the year, make, and model of your RV. Once we receive the information, we can pass it along to the experts.
Please let us know if you have any further questions
Sincerely,
Danesha
RV Repair Club Video Membership
When storing my RV for a few months should the levelers be down to take pressure off the tires?
Hello Roger,
We would love to answer this expert question for you but I would need the year, make, and model of your RV. Once we receive the information, we can pass it along to the experts.
Please let us know if you have any further questions
Sincerely,
Danesha
RV Repair Club Video Membership
I looked at the comments after I sent my question. I see that “thread” was wrong and it should have been “tread”. Thanks for the article – it is very helpful.
In the last paragraph of this article it uses “thread” and “tread”. I’m wondering if they are interchangeable or whether the word “thread” should have been “tread” – “autocorrect”??
What is best tpms for camper and flat tow equinox ?
Hello Robert,
Here’s what the experts had to say about your question:
I’m a big fan of the Tymate and TireMinder for motorhomes and Lippert Tire Linc systems for trailers. All the systems are easy to install and use. Tymate is cheaper with a smaller monitor but the TireMinder is a great system. All systems are fairly similar as they just use a battery powered valve stem cap that relays a signal to the monitor. It is best to find what monitor and options you want from the systems and then choose from there. Some have better dash mounts and others are portable systems.
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
Is there a standard of age vs eye ball on the conditions of the tire as to when tires should be replaced?? Some say replace RV tires every 5yrs, or 7yrs, even 10 yrs.
We are looking for our first CLASS A. Meanwhile dong our research and learning. Enjoy your articles. Very informative!! How did you get started?? Blessings to you! Psalm 68:19
Hello Paul,
Here’s what the experts had to say about your question:
It is recommended to replace them between 7-10 years. Even with good tire tread, the sidewalls can break down over time from UV and weather. If the tires were covered often while outside it can be closer to the 10 year mark but I play it safe and replace every 7 years. We do have a great video going over tire inspection here:
https://www.rvrepairclub.com/video/inspecting-rv-tires-015003/
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
When traveling long distance what temperature should the tires be
Hello Lynda,
Here’s what the experts had to say about your question:
You want to check the manufacture of your tires and based the pressure off of what the weight of your rig is. Here is the link for the list of manufactures that offer tire inflation tables.
https://www.rvsafety.com/tools/tire-inflation-tables
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
Do I need to jack tires off the ground if trailer is not going to be moved for a while?
That isn’t necessary. A lot of people get worried about this but it takes a lot more effort to accomplish this and it really doesn’t prevent much from happening. If you are on grass or gravel it is best to back up on some wood blocks for long term storage to protect the tires more but you don’t need to actually raise them off of the ground.
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
We just purchased this RV, and included in owners manual packet was the receipt from October 2015 for new tires for the coach. I have not crawled underneath the coach to get the manufacturing date on the tires, but i will. In the article above it says that tires for RV have a life of 10 years, however, the tire stores are telling me the life of the tires are 4-6 years depending on the use. Since quotes for 6 new tires are coming in between $2,000-$3,000, i really don’t want to spend that money if I don’t have to. Not to be cynical, but I know that there is a strong possibility that someone wants to sell me some tires, so they are telling me that my tires need to be replaced. Is the life of the tires really 10 years?
It is recommended to replace them every 7-10 years. It really isn’t necessary to replace them sooner unless there are signs of dry rot or uneven tread wear. Even if they look perfect you want to replace them every 7-10 years as the rubber and chemicals made to hold it all together actually start to break down and the chance of a blow out at high speeds greatly increases with the age of the tire. I have seen many tires that look perfect but have blown out because of internal weakening from aging. There are also different tires used between trailers and motorhomes, typically I say to replace the trailer tires every 7 and motorhomes every 10 years. The side walls on the radials used in trailers can get weak easily over time whereas the tires used in motorhomes typically hold up better.
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
What product should I dress the sidewalls with? I’ve heard that truckers often swab there tires with diesel oil. I’d prefer to use something more appropriate for my tires.
CORRECTION: THEIR, not there.
Opinion on brand of tire
Hello Sam,
Thank you for contacting us. Great question! The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members of our online community. By becoming a member, you will have access to our expert’s knowledge in RV Repairs. With your membership you will also receive discounts on products and hours of Premium video content.
If you are interested in becoming a member to RV Repair Club, please click on the special offer below:
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If you have any further questions, please chat, email, or contact Customer Service at 1-855-706-3536.
We greatly appreciate your business!
Sincerely,
Joan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
TIRE PRESSURE
Hello Donald!
Are you seeking advice in regards to tire pressure? If so, could we have the year, make, and model of your RV and we’d be more than happy to assist!
Thanks!
Jessica
RV Repair Club Video Membership
RV Tire Care: How to Maintain and Keep in Top Shape –
Very good article. I certainly love this website.
Keep writing!- calator.tel
I have been seeking a place to Purchase a “Suitcase” Portable scale, that the DOT Police, carry to weigh trucks and RV’s with! Even a used one, that can be calibrated! I do go to weigh stations, and weigh each quadrant, for weighted differences! My handling alone is so much improved by adhering to the Michelin Inflation Chart! If anyone can provide a Link, it would be much appreciated!
You said to look at my tire for date code. How do we translate the code? thanks, Dave
Hello David,
There will be an oval next to the letters “DOT”, it will have 4 numbers in it. The first two numbers are the week it was made and the second set of two numbers is the year it was made. So if the numbers in the oval are “3312”, the tires were manufactured in the 33rd week of 2012. These codes aren’t always on the outside of the tire, they sometimes only put it on one side so if you don’t see it on one side, check the other side of the tire. These codes were required to be started in 2000 so tires older than that might not have the same code system.
I hope this helps!
Dan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
Another important item to consider is to keep check on lug nut torque, I almost lost a wheel this last fall. My tire Minder suddenly showed the sensor was kissing, I thought my battery was dead or it came unscrewed and was only a few miles from home so I continued on. A few minutes later I heard something and felt a mild shaking. I pulled over as soon as I could safely do so and some of my lug nuts were sheared off and the remaining nuts were loose. The chrome wheel cover was missing. I felt fortunate I did not lose the the wheel and cause more damage. I looked it up and learned the lugs should be torqued to 475 foot pounds and I have no way to check that on my own. I had just replaced all wheels and suspect the tire company did not properly do it. Still not sure how to check on lugs, any suggestions?
Hi Thomas,
That can be a very dangerous situation. Yes it is a good idea to keep an eye on the lugs. When wheels are every installed they are supposed to be torqued to specs. It is also a good idea to re torque them after the first 50-100 miles of driving again to make sure they stay in place. Most likely they should stay there until they are removed and re installed again, but it is a good idea to keep an eye on them. I check mine a few times a year just to be safe. A large wheels, around 22.5″, the torque specs can be very high so 475ft lb could be correct. The problem is most torque wrenches usually only go up to 150-250lbs, but they do make some that go that high. They can be expensive but it is better to be safe and check. Torque wrenches for that much weight will be a 3/4″ adapter for a socket. All you have to do is get a correct socket for the lugs, extension and a torque wrench to check them for yourself. I will post a link to a torque wrench that should work for you. If you don’t want to purchase a torque wrench, you can always go to a service center and have them re check it for you. A shop I used to work for did it for free but some places might charge a few bucks to re torque them. If you just had new tires installed, I would talk to the place that installed them. They could very well have torqued them incorrectly which caused them to break and fall off. Not all tire shops with have a torque wrench rated for that high, so places that do semi’s and larger trucks as well as motorhomes should. https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-M204-Torque-Capabilities/dp/B00PX16Z4Q/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1548870716&sr=1-5&keywords=3%2F4+torque+wrench
I hope this information was helpful!
Dan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
My Norcold refrigerator’s ice maker is leaking water. It is producing ice cubes, but leaks water andforms icesickles underneath it on both sides. How do I fix the problem. I have checked outside and inside on the floor and there is no sign of a water leak.
Hi Ronald,
This is usually a sign that the washer seal inside of the water valve has gone bad. The other thing that can cause this is the fill adjustment screw is not in the correct position but this is set at the factory and if you didn’t have this problem before, it should be fine. Most likely it is the seal on the valve that has gone bad and when it is supposed to turn off when full, it keeps leaking through causing water to leak out of the system. These can’t be repaired so the water valve would have to be replaced. You would have to look up the exact model of your fridge to find the water valve you would need.
I hope this helps!
Dan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
Found your article very interesting and I learned something new .
We bought tire pressure monitors. The standard pressure is 82 psi cold, but I was amazed how much the pressure and temperature increase while driving in the summer. What upper limits on pressure and temperature should I expect to see?
I have the same concern. Everything says cold pressure, but I get nervous when the tire pressure goes 6-8 lbs higher when hot! What is the top pressure that should be allowed?
I just had my first blowout while traveling in my fifth wheel. It was my first in over 30 years while on the road.
The tires were goodyear which were only 3 years old with about 10,000 miles. I always check my PSI before traveling and never overload the fifth wheel. The tire split right in the middle of the tread. Upon arriving at tire shop, they inspected the other tires and found all tires were bulging in the middle. I had noticed that when I bought the tires 3 years ago, that my stabilizing spreader device between the 2 tires would not fit between these tires. I just thought it was just the size of the tires, but now can see that these tires were defective from the start. They replaced prior Goodyears which went flat while I was parked in RV park. Unfortunately, the only tire shop that had tires turned out to sell only Goodyears and we had to get back home. I took a chance, but I guarantee it will not happen again. I would not recommend Goodyears and encourage all RVers to check to see if the tire appears to be bulging. I will also be buying a tire pressure monitoring system for the trailer as when the tire blew, I didn’t even feel it and luckily a driver saw it and let me know what happen.
Is there any treatment for fiberglass roofs, to extend their longevity?
Hi Tom,
Using an UV protectant like Protect All or an RV wax is all that is needed, the same as fiberglass sidewalls. You just have to be VERY careful when applying a wax to the roof as it will become very slippery, especially when it is wet. Using a wash/wax spray on product is easier since it can just be sprayed on. These products will just help it look good for years to come and keep them clean but as for durability, they don’t need anything extra to prolong the life.
I hope this helps!
Dan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
In your tire article you mention “thread”. The correct name for that component of a tire is TREAD.
Proper inflation issue
Excellent article on an important topic. Three related issues: Tire speed ratings, difference between trailer and MH tires and valve stems.
All tires have a speed rating designated by a letter code. My 2006 Fleetwood (Coleman) travel trailer came with cheap tires rated at 65MPH. Exceeding the speed rating will result in excessive heat buildup and premature failure. Many trailers flying down the interstate at 70-80 MPH are exceeding their tire speed ratings and hence the preponderance of tire failures. Know your tire’s speed rating and do not exceed them.
Trailer tires are designed for straight ahead operation versus MH tires that operate similar to motor vehicle tires. They tend to have stiffer sidewalls and multilayer bias ply tires are preferred for trailers.
Valve stems are also a critical component in the tire equation. My MH came with Continental tires equipped with standard (all rubber valve stems). Because of the higher pressure MH’s operate at, I suggest replacing these with high pressure valve stems (solid metal core) to enhance the safety aspect.
For the Sprinter chassis question, 70 PSI seems a bit high. I operate my View at 10,600 lbs with the tires at 61 PSI. I have added an external TPMS for peace of mind (already averted one potential blowout due valve stem failure). My ride is comfortable and after adding Sumo Springs on the front and rear, my MH stability (especially on the Interstate) has improved significantly. Drive Safe!
My tires are rated for 110lbs max and the tire shop suggested I run them at 100lbs. The plate on RV recommends 75 to 80 lbs. When I drive in the summer, my TMPS shows the pressure climb over 110lbs due to the heat. Am I overloading the tires?
In reference to “RV Tire Care Tips” my 2015 5th Wheel is permanently (so far) parked in my daughter’s back yard in Phoenix; I have yet to take it on the road. Currently, I keep the pressure at 5 lbs below the max printed on the side of the tires. Is this OK or should I be doing something different?
Hi Preston,
What you are doing is fine, that is a good idea to check the pressure regularly to make sure they don’t get too flat and damage the tires. If they fall too low, the sidewalls can get damaged from the weight pushing out the sides. I do recommend keeping the tires covered when permanently parked to prevent UV damage to them as well. This is help keep the tires is good shape for when you do decide to travel with it.
I hope this helps!
Dan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
You said 10 years, I have heard 7/8 years, tires covered when camping and stored indoors in climate control building when not in use, 3 /4 months at most,. Replace front tires last year because of tire wear, looking at replacing 6 rears this year, all sidewalls look fine and also looked at by Rv chassis employee, time to replace?
I have heard that heat does more harm to tires than uv rays from direct sunlight. My 5th wheel has opposing slides that shade the tires all day long. So, they don’t get uv exposure. We’ll
be in Florida for 3 moths stationary in a campground. Should I cover the tires? Wouldn’t that just add to the heat?
Hello Ed,
Yes heat and UV rays can damage the tires but so can dirt and dust from sitting in one place from long periods of time. The covers will help with all of this. Even if it is hot out, the covers still allow the air around the tires to breath so it won’t be as warm in the cover as it is outside. It is the same as keeping them in the shade, it just protects from the other elements as well. If you tires are in the shade the whole time, you don’t need to cover it but they do help even when it is hot out. This is why you see bumper mounted spare tires with covers on them, protects year round.
I hope this helps!
Dan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
Not all of us have motorhomes. It would be greatly appreciated if you would also include information and specs for travel trailers as well. For example, in this article, I would like to know how I should weigh the 2 tires/axels on either side of my trailer? The 2 tires on Forrest River products, and mine, in particular, are closer together than the tires on other brands. Does that make a difference when weighing each side? Also, is there a charge for using those scales at the truck stops? And what is the average cost, if there is a charge?
I do appreciate the vast wealth of knowledge you share with us.
R. Dennis Burns
Thank you
Hello Richard,
Hello, most of the information we provide can pertain to trailers as well as motorhomes. There are many things that are different between the two but we try our best at giving information that can be used all around the board. When weighing each side, the weight distribution will be the same no matter how far apart the tires are. When weighing each wheel position though, they will be different as there may be more weight in the front as opposed to the rear or vice versa. The CAT scales do charge, usually around $10-$15. These are the easiest way to weigh the trailer. I get an exact wheel position weight is a lot harder. There is a company, RVSEF, that goes around the country and sets up stops for people to get their trailers weighed at each wheel. It is great to do when they come around, but it isn’t frequent. Some truck stops do offer individual wheel weights you would have to call around to find one. I hope this helps some and thanks for being a member!
We are here to help you the best we can.
Dan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
Best reasonable RV tire air pump to keep tires inflated properly?
Hello Brian,
To determine the best air pump for your RV tires we need to know the proper inflation required. Smaller trailer tires only need 28 psi while larger rigs need over 100 psi. Check the inflation your tires require and then we can determine the correct device for you.
Thanks,
David RVRC Video Membership
I have experienced 2 tire blowouts due to nails and extensive undercarrage damage from the treads beting on the bottom of the trailer. Are thare higer quality tires that will deflate gracefull?
How does it work?
Can I change a flat by jacking up the axel?
How many watts are recommended to keep two 12V deep cycle batteries charged? I will be snow-birding by myself, so not using a ton of power and I’m looking at the mono crystalline solar panels.
Thanks,
Leo
Hello Leo,
To provide more specific information in proper support points for raising
your vehicle we need the make, model and year of your rig. Most
manufacturers recommend the axle or a point on the chassis that is
supported with framework and outriggers. Be careful on the axle to
have a jack that is designed with a u-shaped support to cradle the round
axle so it will not slide off.
The watts needed to recharge a battery depend on the 12-volt power draw
your rig demands and the battery bank. I would suggest visiting GO
Power as they specialize in RV solar panels and have a calculator for just
the right panels. Visit them here: http://gpelectric.com/
Thanks,
David RVRC Video Membership
Recently had 2 blowouts within 200 miles of first day of towing. Tires have 2013 date. Tread and sidewalls looked new. Blow outs and shredded tires caused damage in wheel well area. How is the best way to reseal this area, to keep rainwater from splashing up and getting into trailer? I guess I need a monitoring system to stay abreast of temperature and tire pressure?
I carry my Bigfoot Truckcamper on a 1997 Dodge Ram 3500 diesel dually. I am unable to check tire pressure on the inner dually wheels because I can’t reach the valves. I have been researching tire valve extenders and bolt-in stainless steel tire valves. Could you please discuss the pros and cons of each and your recommendations on best choice. Thanks so much for you help!
Not even a year old and camber and toe in way out of whack. Affected just one tire. Had to replace tire with maybe 3000 miles on it. Outside tread had hardly any depth. Alignment shop recommends a yearly alignment saying that it doesn’t take much to throw alignment off’
I try to keep my tires about 108 pounds when hot. My tires and rims are rated 4040 @ 110 psi. My weight is 14k. I start cold pressure at 95 psi. Does this seem proper. I also had tires dated 4112 on a 2015 5th wheel and had blow out with older tires with f rating @ 90psi.
Hey Dave, Great article. Thanks. So let me get this straight, I just got the new Goodyear Endurance trailer tires ST205R75/14. Load Range D. I went to a CAT Scale to weigh my rig. They weren’t able to weigh each tire or each axle (my tires are only 4 inches apart and the scale pads aren’t close enough to get a separate reading) So my rig weighs 5240lbs. Dividing by 4 is about 1310lbs. I went to Goodyear”s website and went to their inflation table. First thing I noticed was a footnote that it was published in 2005 and to refer to somewhere for update which I was not able to find. Anyway I located my new tire on the inflation table and then found the column for 1300lb. The PSI is 35lbs. Can that be right? The cold max load on the sidewall is 65 PSI. Thanks for your help.
Hello Scott,
That is correct. I went to http://www.rvsafety.com the most accurate weight and tire pressure/maintenance information in the industry and they also list the 2005 chart as the most current. John Anderson and now Walter Cannon have been researching, educating, and documenting weights and tire pressure for over 25 years and if you have any questions about tires, Walter is “THE” guy to ask. 65 psi is only used in that tire if you have the maximum weight on the trailer which is probably 6500 or 7000 lbs total?
The 35 psi will give you the proper tread pattern on the road, the best ride, and longer lasting tread.
Thanks
David RVRC Video Membership
Just had my Motorhome weighed. Do I take the rear axle weight and divide it by 4 to figure out correct air pressure for each tire? I’m a little confused about this. I have Firestone FS560 275/70R/22.5 16PR tires. Rear axle weight is 15,420lbs. If I am doing it correct, weight per tire would be 3855lbs/tire…
How often should I rotate the tires?
I have damaged walls from water damage. What steps to take to replace the wood
Would like to know the best solution for valve extenders on the inside duallies. I went to the EZ TPMS system, so I am monitoring pressures well; but airing the
Inside tire is extremely difficult. Someone said a custom bent brass extension is the best way to go. Anyone know who might do that in Colorado. I would think a truck tire company. Everyone else want to sell a braided extension that mounts on the inside dialysis rim. Not a good idea according to some
Excellent article, thanks! I would like to ask though, when not using your RV for an extended time, say 6 months, is it still necessary to rotate the RV tires once a month, so the top of the tire is rotated to the bottom, to keep them from developing a flat spot? Older tires, I think bias ply, need this but I am not sure about the latest ST tires out there, like the Carlise Radial Trail HD i am using now, (I do keep them covered). Thank you!
In the 30 years I have been RVing none of the new fivers I purchased came from the factory or the dealership with the tires/wheels balanced. Why is this?? It is one of the first things I do with a new rig. I usually purchase o Lifetime spin balance package to recheck balance every 5K miles or thereabouts. I find it interesting that In this discussion on tire care tips I only see one responder who mentioned ” spin balance”. The only explanation I could conceive of is that trailer and fiver tires are subjected to more than normal wear patterns from twisting and turning which would throw off any balance. This to me would be even more reason to maintain the balance since like tire pressure it also can accelerate tire wear .
good article
I am running the tire psi at pressures recommended by Winnebago, but maybe should weigh the rig when loaded. I recenty installed a TPMS on the RV and tow vehicle. (EeZTire). The pressures sensors, so far, match my pressure gauge. Hoping the TPMS will indicate tire problems (psi and heat) before a total tire failure. First season having the system, time will tell if the it was money well spent.
how often should the lug nuts be torqued and should they be checked for torque as you travel across the USA form coast to coast ?
I don’t really understand, How do I that I have enough tire pressure in each wheel if more weight is on one side than the other when the gas tanks are used, and the water is used, and the black and gray water tanks are filled or half filled. It seems that I would be constantly changing air pressure.
Do I have to carry around my own scale for weighing each tire, adding more weight?
Also, is it important to cover the spare tire to protect it from dry rotting, and should it be coated with oil or something to help prevent it?
What is the best coating to put on the road tires, i.e.: Armoral, oil, or other?
Hi Dave,
RVSEF is a great organization and does a great service to RV’ers. RVSEF does very few if any rallies in the west and southwest. Our company RV Weigh-Mobile Weigh Station weighed nearly 150 rigs last year at rallies such as Fleetwood Rally, Freighliner Chassis Owners Club Rally, FMCA Western Area, Indio, Rocky Mountian Ramble, RVing Women, etc. We weigh individual wheel ends using Haenni Scales. I get many phone calls from people who want to weigh their coach but cannot find someone to do it using individual wheel weights; I always tell them at least get the axel weights but nothing replaces the peace of mind of knowing the wheel end weights and filling those rubber vessels with the correct tire pressure.
Should tires on a motorhome be rotated? If so, how often?
Great article but does plies and speed figure in tire life
Thanks for the informative article. I have heard not to put tire dressing on the tires. If I were to do it (noting your caution) what specific product or brand would you suggest that does not contain alcohol etc?
How much fresh water should you travel with in your tank?
I have a 5th wheel and when I winterize for the season I put on an old spare set of tires and put the good ones up in my shop untill I’m ready to travel during the summer months and always checking tires and pressure every time I fill up for gas. I found your article very informative thank you
I have heard various opinions, pro & con, about tire protectorates, or coatings to prolong tire life. Are there any that actually work, and are recommended, or is covering the tires and maintaining proper inflation pressure all that is needed? I read somewhere that a product called ‘Ag-Master #1 by Chem Pro was actually proven to increase tire life, but can’t find any info on it. Opinions?
Hi Leonard. The tire manufacturers only recommend cleaning with a mild detergent such as Dawn Dish Soap (Blue) and keeping them covered. I am not familiar with the Ag-Master 1 product, but I don’t see how it can prolong the life of the rubber component that is keep away from the sun’s damaging rays? As you recommended, proper inflation, and keeping the tires covered is the best PLUS weigh the rig to make sure you do not exceed weight ratings for the individual tire position!
I have an ABS indicator on
We have recently purchased this RV. The running board on the passenger is in need of replacing. any suggestions to where this part can be purchased? or perhaps an alternative repair?
Hi, Sheila. Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club site and the opportunity to assist with your parts request. Without a make, model, and year, it’s impossible to guess what type of running board you are referring to. Running boards are usually found only on Class C units, therefore I would recommend contacting an RV Dealership that carries the Ford Class C as most manufacturers use the generic version of the C-body.
How do you check axel alignment on my 5th wheel 2 axel Toy Hauler.
Hi, Henry. Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club site and the opportunity to assist with your axle alignment question. You will need to take it to a qualified trailer specialist that will laser measure the distance from the hitch drop point to each axle point on each side. This will indicate if the entire axle is off center. Then they will attach a laser to the individual hub to measure if the hub is bent at the axle. They will also check the hub to verify if the axle is bent top to bottom. A good indicator for axle issues is tire wear. If you see one tire wearing inside or outside, get it checked.
I have approximately 4500 miles on my tandem tires. The outer edge of the front (leading) tires are wearing. Is this a common occurrence? How often would you recommend rotation? I keep them inflated to their recommendations 65lbs.
Hi, Larry. Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club site and the opportunity to assist with your tire issue. The first thing I would do is weight the rig. Go to http://www.catscale.com and find the nearest Cat Scale, place the front of the tow vehicle on the first pad, the drive axle on the second, and the trailer on the third. Find the total weight and figure out how much is on each tire! They have specific weight ratings and overloading will make the tire work harder and wear faster. Also, once you find the weight, visit http://www.rvsafety.com and look up the proper inflation for your tire, it is not the psi stamped on the side. This is MAX pressure at MAX weight and if you are not at MAX weight, it’s the wrong pressure and you will get premature tire wear. They have all the tire manufacturers charts so find your tire size, weight, dual or single and find the pressure. After all that, I would recommend rotating tires as soon as you start to see an uneven wear pattern. Keep an eye on that trouble spot and if it continues to wear just the one area, you probably have a misaligned axle or bent axle which means having it verified by a trailer expert with laser alignment.
II have a 38 foot fifth wheel that has green caps on the valves. I was told that the tires are filled with nitrogen. I’m not sure if it’s any better or how to check the tires without releasing the nitrogen. Also on how to replace it. Dave
Hi Dave. Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club site and the opportunity to assist with your question on the “Green Caps” on your valve stems. For over 100 years tires have been filled with air from a compressor which is made up of 78 percent nitrogen already. It’s a huge argument about the molecule size related to air loss and moisture but in my opinion there is not sufficient documentation on the effect other than the temperature decrease in tires, especially in a dual application. Checking the tire pressure should not release any traceable amount of psi if performed correctly.
In your Video about testing the fridge thermistor you did not show what scale to use on the multi meter.
Please see your Email for more information.
I had another Cyclone owner tell me that it was recommended to him that he use truck tires because of the weight of the Cyclone. Is this true? I have already had one blowout and the rig has just over 2000 miles on it. I also heard that there is a recall on the stock tires on the Heartlands.
Hi, Jesse. Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club site and the opportunity to assist with your tire question. There is a huge misconception regarding RV tires in the industry mostly due to the abnormal amount of tire failures owner’s have been experiencing. The RV Safety and Education Foundation has been weighing coaches and providing tire education for over 20 years and even worked with tire manufacturers and RV manufacturers to reduce the failures. Most tire failures are caused by overloading the vehicle or underinflating the tires. Or a combination of both! Slapping on a set of truck tires or heavy ply sidewall is a mask of the actual problem and could cause failure in other applications such as bearings, axles, brakes and other components. Read the blog on “Are You Taking Your Tires For Granted” and you’ll see the proper way to weigh your coach, proper tire pressure, and things you can do to extend the life of your tires. Also, I am not aware of a recall on Heartland Tires, but if you call their owner relations department, they will have a list of all recalls.
I don’t see what I’m looking for . I’m having no power to control box on my 1988 Fleetwood 32 ft on GM . And blow by at The (L) fitting from my 13 inch leveling jack .
Just replaced all 6 tires on our 04 Bounder 37U. Michelin 255/80R22.5 spin balanced with lead weights. Getting rig weighed is critical for proper tire inflation. I was very surprised how our rig was loaded in regards to weight at all four corners of the coach. I went to a Pilot with Cat Scale where I was able to weigh each side of the coach with front and rear tires on separate sections of the scale. The apron on sides of the scale allowed me to position one side on the scale with other side on the apron. I then positioned coach on scale for a total front and rear weight. Total cost was $14.50. I now have coach loaded with all four corners fairly equal. What a difference in ride and handling. Also adjusted air pressure based on weight per manufacture recommendations.
looking for some true advice have never pulled a vehicle behind my motorhome . getting ready to give it a try bought the blue ox hitch to pull my vehicle. Now everyone says i need to buy a brake setup for he car also, some say i do not advice please
Hi Robert. Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club site and the opportunity to provide some information on the auxilliary braking system for RVs. Individual states have road use laws that require auxilliary brakes at different weights. Both Blue Ox and Roadmaster have isted current regulations by state and you’ll find that more states today have gone to no law regarding a towed car behind an RV. However, there are still several such as New Jersey that require it on any vehicle, some like New York require it on anything over 3000. Most chassis manufacturers recommend brakes on anything towed over 1500 lbs. In my opinion, it’s a good idea to have a supplemental
braking system rather than relying on chassis brakes to stop everything, especially in wet conditions? However, as you have indicated, it’s a popular topic for debate! Will you get stopped by authorities in the states that require the brakes? Probably not, however there is always a difference between towing legally and safely.
thanks for the info is there a system that stands out. I read reviews on many types they are all over the board. locking up towed vehicles and on and on thanks
Hi Robert. Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club site and the opportunity to assist with your towing question. Every state has posted “Road Use Laws” which list various regulations such as maximum speed towing, length and in your case, the weight at which you need supplemental brakes for a towed vehicle. Some states are 3000 pounds and others such as New York are 1000 pounds. The debate is whether a DOT officer or Highway Patrol will actually pull you over and inspect you? You will find a large number of owners that have towed for years without supplemental brakes, however there is a difference between towing legally and towing safely! In my opinion anything over 1500 lbs should have a supplemental braking system. Most chassis manufacturer’s also recommend them at a certain weight as well. Both Blue Ox and Roadmaster have an easy to install system that are very popular.
The State Patrol does not care if you have a brake system, but, the Lawyers will note the lack of brakes if you have a crash!
Now we own a Forest River Forester MBS. This is the Mercedes 3500 Sprinter version. Seems like a rough ride empty. All tires came with 70# cold. Max pressure listed on tire is 80#. Loading for first trip ever in an RV. This 2017 has a Helwig anti sway. Unit seems to handle ok. Really not taking much stuff for the 2 of us. Seems that the tire pressure is a logical start. Also seems shocks and rear helper springs would “firm” up the ride even more.
Anybody with an MBS who can give actual experiences??
Hi Mike. Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club site. The only way to find proper tire inflation is to weigh your FR at a Cat Scale. Put the front wheels on the first platform, the backs on the second. Get the weights, go to http://www.rvsafety.com and click on the appropriate tire company and match the single vs dual application with the weight and you will find the correct tire pressure! It’s not what is printed on the tire or the data plate. It depends on weight on the tire.
just wondering if you were an advocate of tire covers if your motorhome sits outside for long period of time. I have heard both sides do not know if it is worth the money
Hi Robert. Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club site and YES!!!!!! you should use tire covers. The weather elements, especially the UV rays from the sun beat on the sidewall of the tires and dry them out causing “weather checking” and can ruin a tire in less than 4 months! If you are storing your vehicle or letting it sit for more than a few days, cover the tires. Not only is the cost of the cover less than the actual tire, it’s much less expensive than the cost of a blow out in the middle of nowhere.
ok thanks had some people say it holds moisture and heat in . any certain ones u prefer
Help with tires. New to RVING and need tires for my 38 ft. Fifth wheel. I read about tire night mares and have been told to go with a light truck tire. Only down fall rougher ride …so I am told. Do not care about the ride but care for safe good tires. Would be great if recommendations are not the most expensive 16 incher. Also any chains that might be the best price. Any comments on Tire Rack.com. Thanks for all your help. Chuck aka the idiot rookie
I have a 37′ fifth wheel toy hauler. In the last three years I have had two blow outs on the same side. Each time the tire blows out it causes about $1000,00 in damage. This can not be the norm on travel tires. I have read articles stating that LT tire will put a end to this problem providing the tires are properly rated for the weight. Is this fact?
Hi Darryl. Thank for visiting the RV Repair Club site and the opportunity to assist with your tire issues. Tires, in my opinion are the most critical component on an RV but are the most neglected. You will find a tremendous amount of blogs, opinions, comments, and videos on the issue with RV tires but you need get the “facts” from the tire experts. Putting LT tires on a trailer is not the correct “fix”, rather it’s an education of proper tire pressure and the amount of weight on individual tires. Since you indicated the problem has been on one side of the RV twice, it could be an overloaded situation on that side? Proper tire pressure can only be determined by weighing the coach by individual wheel position and referring to the tire manufacturer’s chart for single or dual position. Also, it’s not uncommon to see units heavier on one side due to slide rooms, appliances, generators, and storage compartments. The RV Safety & Education Foundation (RVSEF) has spent over 30 years working with tire manufacturers, RV manufacturers, and owners to identify what issues cause tire failures and help reduce them. Visit rvsafety.com and you’ll be surprised at what you did not know about your RV tires!
I have recently learned some larger tires are balanced with “balancing beads”. When I checked the rear tire pressures a “bead” got into the valve core and kept it open leaking air pressure. I learned that checking rear tire pressure the valve stems should be above “9 and 3 o’clock” positions. The valve could “suck” in a bead below these positions causing air pressure leak.
Good article, but “Thread” is actually the fiber used to construct the tire, that’s part of what lies under the “Tread”…….”Tread” is what is on the outside of the “Threads” of the tire, it’s what you see and measure for “Tread” depth…not “Thread”.
Hi, Tim. Thank you for pointing that out! We have forwarded your feedback on to the proper department so they may fix this error.
I notice that there are two tire inflation notices on the RV. One is inside the RV stamped on the sidewall, then you have the one stamped on the tire, both inflation suggestion are different. Which one should we use to inflate the tire on the RV, the one inside the RV or the tire inflations recommendation?
Hi Billy. Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club site and the opportunity to assist with proper tire inflation. The pressure stamped on the tire is for Maximum Pressure at Maximum Load, which means your rig is loaded to the Maximum Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). Rigs coming out of the factory have no cargo and therefore will be much lighter than the Max Rating and will require less pressure in the tires. The “info tag” inside the rig is most likely the pressure they recommend for the weight of the rig as it was built. To find proper tire inflation for your vehicle, you need to weight the rig as it sits with the cargo you have loaded, determine individual weight on each wheel, refer to the tire manufacturer’s chart and it will tell you the proper inflation. Since everyone takes different toys, tools, and clothing, it’s important to find how much weight you have on the tires according to your way of having fun!
Hope this helps!
How would you do a travel trailer? I had a new tire blow out this past summer and I did all the things you said to do before going on a trip.
Hi, Earle. Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club site and sorry about the issue with your tire. According to data collected by tire manufacturers, the Tire and Rim Manufacturer’s Association, and the RV Safety & Education Association, the three main causes of tire failures are low air pressure, overloaded weight, and weather checking on the sidewall. If you had a new tire blow out, I would contact my selling dealer or local tire representative to analyze the condition and possible warranty coverage? They would be able to see if there was a road hazard issue or possibly a defective tire.
or made in China
Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club site and sorry about the trouble with your tire. The first thing I would do is go to a Cat Scale and weigh the rig. Visit http://www.catscale.com to see the nearest location and for $10 you can find the weight of your rig. These scales have three platforms so make sure your RV is the only thing on that platform. Divide the weight by the number of tires and go to http://www.rvsafety.com and find the tire guide for your brand. This will tell you the proper inflation to start with. I would then take the new tire to a qualified tire representative and ask for an inspection of the tire. They may be able to determine the cause of the blow out? You may have done everything right before and during the trip, however if the tire picked up a nail or other puncture item, you wouldn’t know it. It could also have split the sidewall due to scuffing a curb or being cut by a piece of road debris.
I would seriosly recommend you get individual axel ends weighed on your travel trailer. The tire pressure should always be set to match the heaviest load on an axel. I have seen as much as 500 lbs. difference on an axel end. Getting an axel weight and dividing in half will often times lead to an under inflated tire.
Trailer manufacturers are notorious for putting the absolute minimum load rating tire on a trailer, so I recommend stepping up to the next load rating on the tire, I did this with a 5th wheel and saw a remarkable difference in handling and control of the 5th wheel.
So, if the rig’s weight is below the maximum GVW, how is the correct tire pressure determined? Maximum PSI for maximum GVW, but what’s the best/lowest PSI for something less than GVW?
Hi, Richard. Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club site. The first thing you need to do is identify the brand and tire size. For example, a Michelin tire on a traditional diesel chassis would be a 255/80R22.5 . Next go to the tire manufacturer’s website, in this case http://www.michelinrvtires.com or visit http://www.rvsafety.com and go to the tire charts. Find your tire on the chart, look for single or dual application, and scroll over until you find the weight that is on the tire and it will tell you the proper pressure. Attached is a copy of the chart from Michelin’s webpage for that tire. Note the maximum pressure at maximum load is 110 psi, however if the rig is not fully loaded to GVWR, it has recommendations of lower psi. Hope this helps!
I work in the tire manufacturing industry (GoodYear ) and have never heard of “Tire Thread”. Niall the references did you actually mean “Tire TREAD ” ?
Hi, Tom. Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club site and catching the “Tire Thread” slip! It looks as though I started out with the correct reference in the upper portion of the article and then something went wrong, maybe during spell check? I’ll have our staff correct the mistake. Hopefully you found the rest of the information consistent with what Goodyear is stating for RV tires? I worked with both Goodyear and Michelin for years helping to educate owners on the proper care and maintenance of tires as there was a very concerning issue with RV tires. Thanks again and keep checking on me, I need the help!
NOTE: Here is the corrected copy:
Tread Wear
Periodically you should check the tread of your tires to look for improper wear patterns, low tread, and missing chunks of tread (really!). If you notice thinner tread on the inside or outside of the tire it means you have alignment issues or improper weight distribution. Running your hand over the tread will also indicate early signs of alignment issues if the thread is smooth in one direction and rough or “feathered” in the other.
The Rubber Manufacturing Association recommends any vehicle over 10,000 pounds should have at least 4/32” of tread. Vehicles under 10,000 pounds should have 2/32” of thread. Use a good depth gauge and check your tires periodically.
NOTE: Here is the corrected copy:
Tread Wear
Periodically you should check the tread of your tires to look for improper wear patterns, low tread, and missing chunks of tread (really!). If you notice thinner tread on the inside or outside of the tire it means you have alignment issues or improper weight distribution. Running your hand over the tread will also indicate early signs of alignment issues if the thread is smooth in one direction and rough or “feathered” in the other.
The Rubber Manufacturing Association recommends any vehicle over 10,000 pounds should have at least 4/32” of tread. Vehicles under 10,000 pounds should have 2/32” of thread. Use a good depth gauge and check your tires periodically.
Great article. I am in the habit of always checking tire pressure before every trip. I also never leave my tires uncovered. When going on trips, after I level my Class-A, the first thing i do is put the tire cover on. They stay on until I am ready to travel again.
I have added valve extenders to allow easy access to both inside and outside dual tires.
Where do you buy extenders that don’t leak?? I’ve two brands and they leak!!
I have had leaks out of the extenders installed by a RV dealer. Once I took the rig to a qualified Tire company and had them reinstall, never had a problem. My advice is to buy the extenders and have a tire company that works on duallys put the on.
I found this great guy out in California. I bought a total of 6 valves, had my mechanic install them the first year I had the RV, and have NEVER noted a loss of pressure. The valves have to be installed from INSIDE the rim, so each tire has to be unmounted.
http://tire-man.iwvisp.com/
Just remember, the configuration he speaks about is what the rim looks like WITHOUT the hub-cap/cover.
As a person who has worked in the tire industry for over 30 years, I was pleased to see your article on tire maintenance. However, tires do not have THREAD, they have TREAD (that portion that contacts the road. Other than that, it was a great article with some excellent recommendations. Thanks!
Which valve stem is for the inside tire?