Question
My refrigerator burner flame has started to blow out while driving a lot. What can I do to correct this? It just started the last couple of years.
Submitted via email
Answer
First, I do not recommend you run the refrigerator on LP while traveling down the road. If you do, there is an open propane source and if you have a connection leak due to road vibration or have an accident there is a the potential of explosion and fire with an open propane line and the refrigerator and other appliances trying to light with a spark. Plus, you MUST shut the LP line off when entering a fueling station which most RVers that travel with the refrigerator running on propane do not do! We did a test on refrigerator efficiency and found that if you bring your refrigerator down to 36 degrees and shut it off, it will maintain below 40 degrees 6 hours later! You do not need to run the refrigerator while driving…check out the videos!
Ok, all that said…I know there are people who will ALWAYS travel with the propane on, so just be careful and make sure you shut the valve off before entering a fueling station! If your burner flame is blowing out while driving and has been working fine before, there are two things that you should look at. First, what is the water column pressure of your propane system? You will need a certified propane technician to check the pressure which will affect the strength of the flame. Second, clean out the burner assembly. The more soot, dust, and other obstructions will limit the amount of fuel and make for a weaker flame. One more thing, as the unit get older, you may need to adjust the burner tube just before the burner assembly which will increase or decrease the amount of air/oxygen to the burner assembly.
Hope this helps,
David Solberg
Related:
Tips For RV Refrigerator Troubleshooting
Diagnosing An Inefficient RV Refrigerator
How To Use An RV Propane Refrigerator
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Looking for video how to replace wiring on hot water heart. Mine melted
My black water tank has developed a small leak (seep) where the pipe to drain it joins the tank.
How best to repair this?
Hello Charlie,
THank you for contacting us.
It depends on what connection is used there. If there is a clamp holding the pipe fitting into the tank, these are usually just filled with putty sealant and can be taken apart, cleaned and installed with new sealant. If it is glued into place you will have to try to apply more sealant to close the opening. I have had good luck with JB Weld cement that can be used on ABS components for sealing cracks. You can also try using ABS cement for very small cracks, just make sure everything is dry before using it.
If you have any other concerns, please contact us at 1-855-706-3536, or chat with us on our site.
We greatly appreciate your business!
Sincerely,
Sarah
RV Repair Club Video Membership
The propane system for refrigerator/freezer will not start/burn automatically. The electric mode works fine. I can light the propane burner and it refrigerates fine, until it automatically shuts off, when cooling level is met. It will not relight on its own. I have replaced the ignitor, but don’t hear “click,click, click” as if it is trying to light the propane. Any ideas on what to attempt next to get the system to work automatically on its own?
Hi Drew. There are really only two things that can cause this since you already replaced the igniter. Either the igniter is not making a good connection to the metal to make an electrical connection or the control board is not sending a spark. The metal around the burner needs to be clean so the igniter can create a spark. Use sand paper to clean the burner by the igniter tip and make sure the igniter tip is only 3/16″ away from the burner. If it is too far away it will not work properly. If all of that is good then the only thing left would be the control board. This is what sends the voltage to the igniter to create the spark and most likely it would need replaced.
Dan
RV Repair Club
Is it better to cover the roof with tarp to protect from snow? Or just remove snow if it accumulates
Hello Marlene!
That’s a great question!
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Ayan
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I can’t get my hot water to work? This coach has only 5900 mi on it and is like new. We are complete newbies. I’ve figured out the water and pumps etc however I have a switch over my stairs that you can either use battery or propane. Is that for the hot water heater? I’ve been trying to get this to work on electric only and I just can’t figure it out?
Hi Kevin. It is possible the switch you are talking about is for the water heater but the only options for the water heater are going to be electric 120v or propane gas. It will not have a battery option. Usually the water heater controls are going to be around the kitchen area, near the main monitoring panel or sometimes in the hallway or bathroom as well. If your switch doesn’t say “electric” or “gas” it can sometimes have symbols with an electric bolt and water droplet to indicate the options as well. The gas option usually has a red light next to it as well. Many RV’s only have gas only, not a combination system with both heat options. If you have the correct switches and you still aren’t getting hot water there could be a few things causing this. You first want to check and make sure the bypass valves are set properly. These are the valves typically on the back of the tank or in the wetbay to bypass the tank when winterizing. If they are still in bypass hot water will not flow to the lines. You will have to open the valves to get water in the tank and to the lines. If the valves are fine then there could be an issue with voltage to the tank. Check the breakers and fuses at the distribution center and make sure they are all good. After that you will have to test voltage at the board on the tank and then test the components themselves. Usually it is a voltage issue or the bypass lines are in the wrong position to not be getting hot water. We do have some great videos that could help as well, I will share a link below!
https://www.rvrepairclub.com/?s=water+heater#
Sincerely,DanRV Repair Club Technical Expert
Our frig wouldn’t stay lit driving. Then tried to run it on electric. Wouldn’t stay on while parked. Dealer replaced motherboard, said it was bad. Drove home with frig on propane to test it and was off again. We figured it was blowing out from the wind, so added covers over the outside cover. And we have had it on propane parked for a couple of days now. Husband went to check it today, and it’s off again. So now back to diagnose it again.
Hello Melinda! We’d love to help! What is the year, make, and model of your RV? Thanks!
lp and el water heater wont come on
Hello Wayne,
Great question! The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members of our online community. By becoming a member, you will have access to our expert’s knowledge in RV repairs. With your membership you will also receive discounts on products and hours of Premium video content.
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Hello
Have problem with paint. Understand it is the clear expanding on darker colours. Is Winnebago doing any thing about this error in their painting issue? Ranges from late 1990 to 2006 +/- what action would you suggest?
Thank you
Garry
Hello
The complete right hand slide out has lost it power to the plugs. However the fridge does work. Is there a gfci plug? I have look but no luck. Thank you Garry
Every RV should have a GFCI. It is usually located near possible wet areas such as the kitchen, bathroom or in outside storage compartments. Look under cabinets in the kitchen, on the sides of cabinets in kitchen and bathrooms and near the sinks. These are the most common places for these outlets. Especially on the kitchen slide they are all most likely on the GFCI circuit but the switch could be somewhere other than the kitchen but still be on the same circuit so make sure to check other areas for it.
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
WE HAD SAME PROBLEM OF FLAME GOING OUT WHILE DRIVING. AFTER TRYING YOUR SUGGESTION A SEVERAL OTHER WE REPLACED THE REGULATATOR CUNNECTED TO THE PROPANE TANK, PROBLEM SOLVED
lt was sportman i think it was comple rebuild it got insta matic propane fright 1=m=6 in it need parts
Hello John!
We’d love to help! What issue are you running into specifically?
Thank you!
Jessica
RV Repair Club Video Membership
Thank you
The generator runs fine when it’s not hot out , but when it over 75 80 degrees out it only runs 30 / 40 minutes then shuts down and it won’t restart. I’ve replaced the fuel filter , spark plugs and fuel pump. The code says it’s not receiving fuel but it is getting fuel. Runs fine when it not hot out. Please help . Model #: HGJAB-1038D Thank you
Jerry,
Most of the time the hot weather effects the oil. You want to make sure you are using the right rating and it is fresh and full when operating. You also want to check everything else maintenance too like the air filter. There could also be a problem with the carburetor too. If it hasn’t been cleaned out in a while, it is possible the heat is expanding debris inside and causing a fuel blockage. These are really the only things I know of that heat can cause as issue with. Make sure your spark arrestor is cleaned, ventilation is good and there is no blockage in the exhaust too.
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
My AC/Heat fan blower stopped working. I checked all the fuses and found a 30 Amp fuse blown. No other fuses were blown. It appears that there is no power going to the fan or switch. Replaced the relay, switch and receptor still not working. can’t seem to find out whats wrong. I tested the blower and it works, I jumped the relay and the blower works. Do you know whats wrong.
Hello Bill!
That’s a great question!
The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members to our online community. We do have a promotional offer if you are interested. This would include access to expert advice (like this), plus discounts, hours of Premium videos, etc. Please feel free to take a look. You can message us right back with your question if you decide to become a member and you will have a response within 1-2 business days from our experts!
Please follow the steps below to receive the annual membership at the introductory rate:
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2. Click on the Premium Membership offer.
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4. Fill in your Billing Details and create an account password.
5. Fill in your debit/credit card information.
6. Finish by clicking Complete Order.
If you have any further questions, please contact Customer Service at 1-855-706-3536 at your earliest convenience, or chat with us on our site.
We greatly appreciate your business!
Sincerely,
Jessica
RV Repair Club Video Membership
Fridge keeps everything frozen, even when set on low and fridge is shut off
My ref. won’t change over to A/C from L/P can you tell me what to do.
Dave,
Well it depends on the symptoms you are having. If it starts the ignition cycle for gas but fails, there is probably something wrong in the burner assembly. If it does not start the ignition cycle at all it is usually a control board issue. If you hear a clicking noise you want to inspect the spark and make sure it is sparking above the burner tube, sometimes it needs adjusted. If the spark is good, remove the burner and check for any sort of blockage. If there is no spark, check the wiring at the control board. Also check the igniter wire and make sure there are no cracks or breaks in the wire or ceramic at the head of the igniter. If all of that is good, it could be either one of the control boards. The lower board on the back of the fridge is what starts the heating source. The eyebrow control board is what you use to make the selection. If you are plugged into AC and the auto mode is selected, turn off the breaker or unplug the RV. If it does not start the gas ignition cycle the board is most likely bad and would need replaced. If it works fine now but doesn’t work when gas is selected on the eyebrow board, then this board is bad and would need replaced. Make sure to check the fuses on the lower control board, sometimes it can be something simple like that. I hope this was helpful!
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
The power to my panel for the water, black water, grey water levels is out. There are no lights indicating levels. What can I do?
William,
You first want to check the fuse panel and make sure it isn’t just a fuse that is blown. If the fuses are OK, you then want to remove the panel and check the voltage and connections to the panel. You will see a lot of wires tied together to each switch, this is most likely the positive wire. Check the 12v at this wire and check the connections going to it. Most of the time it is just a bad connection to this main wire and if it goes bad, it won’t allow anything to work at all. If there is voltage to this wire and the connections are good, there could be a problem with the panel. Check the wire harness on the panel and if it is good, then most likely there is an internal problem on the panels control board and it would need replaced.
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
replaced house batteries and let a neg cable touch the positive. result 12v house system will not work unless the engine is running or the switch is in the assy position. This seems to power the isolation relay where is the breaker or fuse that is blown or how is this wired so I can fix
Hi, I hear an acute whistling sound for about 25 secs each time my Suburban propane furnace starts!!! First I hear the blower start… then after about 10 secs the propane burner (so far it seems OK)… and after about 10 more secs the acute whistling sound start like I said for 25 secs. Then the whistle stop until the next start…!!! Is it normal? I’m quite new rving!!! By the way, excuse my english… I mainly speak and write in french. Thanks in advance. Andre Petit
what senses that the burner is lit? my burner lights off and stays lit ,but the ignighter keeps sparking until unit shuts off ,then displays error code F
Dear Mark,
Thank you for your patience. In response to your question-
It depends on the system. If there are two prongs at the burner, the electrode itself will be what detects the flame when it is heated up and the other prong is the ground for the spark. If there are three prongs, one will ignite, one will sense and the other is the ground for the spark. You want to make sure that the flame is hitting the electrode or the sense prong. If the flame is hitting it just fine, you would then want to clean off the prongs with some sand paper and see if this helps. If it does not help, it might be faulty and would need replaced. Check the electrode with the ceramic casing, if the casing is cracked at any point it would need replaced. I just had one that was cracked and would still ignite just fine but would drop the reading when sensing because of the crack. I hope this helps!
We’d love to have you be a part of our community. We are convinced you will enjoy the benefits of becoming a member and having access to the best instructional how to videos and professional tips. We would like to offer you a special promotion for your first-year membership.
https://go.rvrepairclub.com/c16626
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
The jack and slides have decided not to work unless hooked up to electricity. When hooked up they work fine just now while running on battery.
Hello,
I would start by checking the battery fluid levels and connections. The slides and jacks need a lot of power and if the battery is weak or has a poor connection, it may need the extra power from being plugged in to help them run. You can have the batteries tested at local auto parts stores to make sure they have proper amperage. The battery could still be good enough to run lights and things but when a heavy load is put on it, they can cut out from being sulfated or low on fluid. Make sure to check all ground connections from the battery as well. If the converter ground is tied to the chassis ground but the battery negative to the chassis is loose, this problem can occur.
I hope this helps!
Dan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
I have a sheild over the front window. It has cracked and blown off. Where can I find a replacement for it.
Hello Darrell,
I know LCI makes rock guards but I was not able to locate an online retailer that sells them. LCI only sells to service centers and dealers so you may have to check with one and see if they can order the correct size for you. Here is the link from LCI showing they offer them, they may be able to tell you a local service center that they deal with if you contact them directly.
https://www.lci1.com/rockguard-window#products
I hope this helps!
Dan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
Ticket#20404 1. Where is the coach water pump located and access ? 2. What position should the water valves under the dinette seat be when the tank is full while traveling ?
Dear Gabriel,
Thank you for your patience. In regards to your question-
Water pumps can be in many locations. The best way to locate it is to turn it on and trace the noise. They can be under dinette seats, in lower cabinets, under the master bed, in outside storage compartments etc. They are always lower to the ground, so you don’t need to inspect higher cabinets. They usually aren’t far from the fresh potable water tank, they pump better when located as close as possible to the tank. Try and locate your fresh tank and then inspect the area above in nearby areas. I’m not sure what water valves you are referring to, but no valves that I am aware of need to be changed during travel. They should be able to stay in the same position when you are camping as traveling. The only think that might leak out while traveling is the fresh tank out of the over flow vent line, but you can’t prevent this from happening. The vent line always needs to be open and there isn’t a valve for that. Other than that, the water system is sealed and directional or close valves should not have to be turned. I hope this helps!
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
Ticket#20405 I am experience delamination on the front surface of my trailer (near the top of the sloping front), and on top of the roof. At present you have to look to see the skin lifting in front (different ripples), but on the roof in the same general area, there is an area about four feet across that appears soft and is suffering the issue. How major is this issue? If I put my weight on it, would the roof tear and cause inside damage? Is it repairable and how costly? I imagine it is quite expensive. With this problem, is the value of my unit out the door in terms of a possible trade-in?
Dear Richard,
Thank you for your patience. In regards to your question-
Delamination can be caused by the adhesive behind the fiberglass coming loose or from water damage. In the case of the wall and the roof both doing this in the same area, it sounds more like water damage to me. Have you inspected the sealant in that area? Even the smallest crack or opening in the sealant can cause major water issues. If you press down on the roof where the fabric is lifting up and it feels soft and spongy, it is water damage. If the roof is still hard and solid just like the rest of the roof, the glue may have just not held well. Don’t stand on it right away, just stand off to the side and use your hands to press down. Ripples in the roof fabric are very common, but a soft roof is damage. Delam on older RV’s is a common thing too since they used to use a different glue that ended up not holding well. It could hurt your trade if someone inspects that area and declares it was damage. I could just be how that model was made though. The best thing to do is further inspect the roof in that area and check all of the sealant. Make sure there are no openings in the sealant or rubber roof and make sure there are no soft spots. The roof can be repaired if damaged but it is timely and costly. Wall delamination can be even more expensive as most of the time if there is water damage, the wall and supports may have to be replaced. But like I said before, it may not be water damage. If you can’t tell what caused this it might be a good idea to take it to a service center and have it inspected to make sure. This will help give you a heads up on when trying to trade it in. A lot of dealers will still take something like that in, you will just get less money for it. There is always a “want” out there for an RV in any condition. Many people use damaged campers as parked hunting cabins, so even if you can’t sell it in on trade you can try to sell it on your own to someone who might have a need for it. I hope this helps and best of luck!
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
NB Ticket#20407 I do some camping in below 32 degree weather while elk hunting at 8000 feet plus elevation. Does it pay to wrap the water lines in cabinets and toilet lines to potentially help them to not freeze.
Dear Thomas,
Thank you for your patience. In regards to your question-
I would be very cautious with keeping water in the unit when below freezing temps. There are tank heating pads and water line heaters that can be added to help. If the inside of the RV is heated, the underbelly is insulated, and water lines under the unit are well covered or heated you should be ok. I would just make sure to keep an eye on things. Every so often, open all of the faucets one by one to make sure water is coming out. If the water stops, then lines are freezing. If you don’t plan on using the water system, I would recommend winterizing the water lines with RV antifreeze to ensure no lines will freeze and crack. I will provide a link to a tank heater so you get an idea of what I am talking about. I hope this helps!https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Fresh-Water/LaSalle-Bristol/277-000164.html
We’d love to have you be a part of our community. We are convinced you will enjoy the benefits of becoming a member and having access to the best instructional how to videos and professional tips. We would like to offer you a special promotion for your first-year membership.
https://go.rvrepairclub.com/C14436
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
Can you tell me which type of frame my 2001 Dutchmen lite 26bh has? Meatal or wood?
Dear Kathy,
Thank you for your patience. In regards to your question-
If the side walls are aluminum panels, you will have wood framing in the walls. If you have fiberglass walls then you will have metal (aluminum) framing.
Sincerely,
Dan RV Repair Club Video Membership
RV Repair Club Technical Expert