Question
We recently had to replace both the engine and coach batteries on our RV. There is a button on the door for battery use or store. What is that button supposed to be on? We’re newbies to the big RV.
Submitted via email
Answer
Welcome to the wonderful world of RVing! This switch is commonly called the Battery Disconnect Switch and is designed to disconnect your house batteries while being stored.
Pushing it to the Storage side is like taking off the battery cable. It ensures that if you have left a light on in a compartment or anything inside, it will not drain your house batteries. Some RV manufacturers connect the LP Leak Detector directly to the battery bypassing the disconnect, so you may still have a draw even with the switch on Storage.
To find out if this is the case with your rig, get a 12-volt test light, push the switch to Storage, then disconnect the negative terminal on one of the batteries. Touch the probe to the post and the alligator clip to the cable. If the light comes on, you have a draw.
Safe travels,
David Solberg
Related:
RV Battery Basics: A Beginner’s Guide
Testing RV Battery for Charge & Condition
Improving RV Battery Charge and Extending Battery Life
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my battery is dead. unit is connected to electric power but my electric awning will not work. wondering if battery has to be good for awning to work.
I have no power after replacing chassis battery this spring where is the vehicle battery cutout located 5.7 leather v8
The coach power connect disconnect switch has a green light that is on when you turn the connect on then goes off when you turn the disconnect on. What does it mean when the green light goes off then comes back on when you hit the disconnect?
My FIN# is 739W67169629, Model W. Where would I find the ac to dc converter on this coach?
The frig . draws 11 to 12 volts even when the frig. power switch is turned off?
I have a battery disconnect solenoid but cannot find the disconnect switch. Is it the one marked Aux batt on/off?
New to truck camping so sorry if I sound silly. I was wondering what the best place to install a battery isolator for my setup, and how does a person install the isolator when using a 7-way plug?
Thanks for any input.
Battery disconnect isnt working after we replaced our batteries
Improving Ride , Sway , Steering , : i’m putting on Sumosprings soon , so i’m wandering if the next step might be a Steering stabilizer and what brand is the best ?
my MH won’t start lights do not come on dash gauges do not come on.
new engine battery new battery cables no click just like if no battery was installed.
is there a engine battery disconnect switch?
i own a 2014 thor outlaw ive had to replace the house batteries but for some reason even with the new ones i cant dry camp i have no lights and the batteries want stay charged what could be the problem
Hello Daniel,
Do the lights work at first and then turn off quickly? What do you use to charge the batteries? Depending on the size of batteries and what you are using, they could only last a few days during dry camping. How many batteries do you have and are they connected properly? 12v batteries need to be parallel and 6v batteries need to be in series. If you connected the new batteries and nothing turned on, I would check the fuses and the battery connections. There could be an inline fuse, one on the panel/converter and if you have a disconnect switch there could be a problem there too. If the batteries die really fast there could be a short in the wiring or something in the system draining them quickly. If the last batteries you had went bad, there could be something faulty in the wiring or the converter that could be causing the batteries to fail and nothing to work. Checking the connections would be the best place to start, then tracing the voltage back from the batteries and wee where the voltage loss is would be the next step.
I hope this helps!
Dan
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When I switch my battery disconnect switch either way it trips my 40amp Coach breaker and I don’t know why, I replaced my Converter because it went bad but now dealing with this
we just put in a new house battery ,but we don’t know which connector goes to the terminals help ,or will anything happen if they are connected wrong, thanks
store ,,inuse light wont turn off..COULD it be broken green ground wire broken causing back feed ?
I am having trouble putting the coach batteries into storage mode. When I put them into storage mode, I can hear the relay(s) click and the switch panel light stays on but nothing else happens. Batteries end up dying if I’m not connected to shore power.
I found a bad fuse next to the Relays in the box behind the batteries (not 1 of the 2 on the relays itself but next to it), replaced the fuse and I was able to place them in storage mode at that point BUT when they go into storage mode.
The small LED light above the switch panel flickers and if I turn on a light inside the coach to verify the power is off, it flickers as well. While this flicker is happening, I’ve checked the Battery Disconnect Relay underneath the coach behind the batteries and it is not making any noise at all. If I switch out of storage mode, I have a solid switch panel LED and full lights in the coach.
I just need to know if the battery disconnect should be on or off. I lice in my rv year round.
Hello,
I would leave it in the “on” position. If you left it off, after a while your battery shelf life would get low and loose it’s charge. By leaving it plugged in, it will be getting a charge from the converter. Most converters have a trickle stage and after the battery is full it will drop the charge to maintain the battery. This is also good in case there is a power outage, the battery can be used to operate the fridge on gas or inverter and you can also use things like lights, furnace and water heater just in case the power is out.
I hope this helps!
Dan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
Batteries are getting very hot. Checked voltage it was 12.5 when opening the door there was a strong odor that’s when I found they were very hot.
If I hit the House Battery disconnect switch, do my Inverters still take some charge from the batteries? If so, do I need to turn them off “before” I hit the switch?
Hello Matt,
It depends on how the switch is set up, they are different on all RV’s and the manufactures wire them differently. Some use the switch as a complete “kill switch” from the system and shuts everything down while others only disconnect the battery from the converter, leaving things connected to the battery still operable link an inverter. The best way to check is turn off the switch and then turn on the inverter to see if it still has power. With the inverter off, there should not be any power drain anyway. It’s better to turn off the inverters when not in use anyways just in case there is a load on the inverter you don’t want to cause any high amp issues by cutting the power out.
I hope this helps!
Dan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
How do we turn the 12V disconnect back on? The button is a spring action type button. You just press it for the disconnect and then the button returns to its original position. We don’t see any way to turn it back to “connect”. Batteries are charged, but nothing works unless we are on shore power. We have an inverter also.
TV cable. The problem is when I connect to campground cable that is digital I can not get a signal for TV’s to run. Both TV;s are digital capable. I only have one cable connection to trailer.
Earlier I got a dish TV antenna and that to would not play through trailer cable. I fixed this problem by running new cable along frame and up through floor to Dish TV box then to TV and it works fine.
Now back this not running on the digital TV signal. Using cable I ran for Sat dish both TVs would play well on the campground digital signal.
At this campground they also have a shop that they will install or work om you trailer. I talked with them and they said it was a common problem they have been seeing. The problem they say is not the cable but the spliters use in the cable. The signal will not pass through the type spliter they ate and they need to be change. I found one behind stereo un big screen TV. splits there and goes to that set and then back up into wall where I assume it runs across bathroom ceiling coming in bedroom ceiling. After changing this still no signal. Now they tell the other spliter could be anyplace in a ceiling or even a side wall. Does them seam right or am I just chasing my tail here.
Hello Martin,
Normally splitters will only be used directly behind the main living area TV. The cable connection outside goes directly to the main entertainment center and then into an antenna booster on most models. There is usually a selector switch for antenna or cable. Out from there it will go to the main TV, on the back there will be a line for a bedroom TV and a splitter used to send it to another source. If you have this setup there could be a problem with the antenna booster not sending an output. If you don’t have this and the cable coming in just comes to a splitter, it should be the only splitter unless you have other cable outputs. If you only have the main TV and another with no outside outputs, there won’t be another splitter. See how for down the cable you can see off that splitter, if there is another one it will usually be near by. With the new splitter not working, it is possible there is a problem with the cable line or the coax connections themselves. You could always test the splitter on the coax you ran to see if the splitter is OK. If it works fine there, you know the problem lies withing the cable lines. It could start at the outside connection or a break in the cable inside a wall. If you have a multi meter and some extra cable, you can preform a continuity test from the outside connection and the inside connection to make sure the line is OK. These problems can be tough to trace, but the best thing to do is check and make sure the cable is sending through and the connections are good.
I hope this helps some!
Dan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
Thanks for your info. I now know I’ll be headed in right direction working on this. This all started in a campground in South Carolina. I had like two rain days with this and took easy way out by asking the people there. Changing splitter did not make much sense to me but it was inside out of rain :-) I being from New York State put it into storage down there till I get back in Jan. I then will be living in it for a month or so. Should have plenty of time to test cables. Like you stated I believe it has to be an open between splitter and outside connection point or a bad connection. I hoping for bad connection. It would be a real bear to route cable through ceiling from one end to the other.
Thanks again for the reply.
THE CHASSIES BUTTON WILL NOT TURN ON HAD THE SWITCH CHECKED AND IT WAS GOOD
Battery use / store or battery disconnect is not working properly. It stays in use mode not matter if I switch it to store mode. What’s wrong why will it not work. Is there a fuse or something preventing the switch to occur. I noticed when I attempt to switch it to store mode a single overhead light flickers but it stays in use mode. Help me please.
When using a 30 amp breaker at a campground with a 30 amp to 50 amp adapter, are both legs of the 50 amp service in the RV powered (through the same 30 amp breaker)?
Hi Joseph,
You are correct. On a 50 amp service there are two hot legs coming into the RV, they are actually 50 amp for each leg. In the RV, if you look at the distribution panel you will see 2-50 amp breakers on a connected switch. The left side of the breakers is all on one leg and the right side of the breakers is on the other leg. This means 50 amps is going to each side. When you use an adapter for a 30 amp connection, it only brings one hot leg into the system and splits it to both legs of the RV. So when you use the adapter, there will be a shared 30 amp service to the whole RV. You have to be careful on what you use inside the RV when doing this because the total load capacity has now dropped.
I hope this makes sense and helps!
Dan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
My battery disconnect isn’t working so I replaced the switch with a new one and it still isn’t working. There is power to the switch because the little green light is on. Any suggestions on this?
I am unable to find the water tank valve to drain the tank for winter
I disconnected the battery disconnect inside the bus. when I went to connected back it did not work. I bypass the batter disconnect and did not work. checked the converter, 12 v out , check the solenoid 12 in and 12 out, nothing working inside. check the fuse panel all are off but have continuity. I need to have the inside of the rv, fridge aircond, and light working
How do I empty the 2nd Black Water Tank? How do I turn on the pump on the pump on the passenger side to empty the tank? Obviously, new at this!
Hi Samuel,
I’m going to need some more information to assist you. Having the make, model and year of you RV would be a big help. Are you able to empty the other black and gray tanks? Do you have a macerater pump that sends the tanks contents out of a hose? Some units have these as well as the standard termination drain. Most of the time, there are gate valves that need to be opened to send the contents to the pump or gravity drain. There will be a valve for each individual tank. All black tanks have a 3″ valve, the smaller valves are only for gray tanks. If you have the pump, all of the tanks will go to it when draining. All of the tanks will go to the standard gravity termination valve as well. Usually there is a valve at the termination that needs to be closed and one at the pump that needs to be opened. The pump will have a switch by the hose. I have never heard of a pump on the passenger side to empty tanks, are you talking about the water pump for the fresh water system? That does not need to be turned on when draining the tanks. If you could provide some more information on what RV you have I can see how the system is set up and what you need to do to empty the tanks.
Thanks,
Dan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
My house/couch disconnect switch doesn’t disconnect. The green light remains on when switched to off position and house lights remain on unless I turn them off myself. The RV is not plugged in.
lights won’t come on inside without generator now, so replaced disconnect switch and new battery under coach still won’t work have ordered new battery disconnect relay, if that doesn’t work what can it be? Shirley
The campground we have a permanent site at was having electrical issues,so decided to unplug our camper and went home several hours later.We returned three weeks later and plugged in our camper and the slideout and awning would not open.Wondering if the battery was to low. I did not leave it plugged in.
I have 2 battery disconnect switches in my rv. One is house battery, the other is chassis battery. When staying at a campground for an extended amount of time, what position should these switches be in. I am connected to 50amp service.
Hello,
Typically you would want them to be on so your converter is charging the house batteries while plugged into an outlet. You have to check the water levels on the batteries often though. You don’t really want to turn them off, if you lose 120v power and only left with battery power you want to make sure they are charged. Chassis battery should be off but if your converter can charge the chassis battery, depending on what RV make and model you have, it can be turned on periodically to make sure you don’t have a dead battery when trying to leave the site.
I hope this helps!
Dan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
2 wires with fusable links AND in line fuses, 15A and 3A, HAVE corroded and fallen from house battery positive. what could they be for ? they go into a conduit and are untraceable.
Looking for a “how to” on diagnosing chassis grounding/shorting issues, under powered alternator, and upgrade to higher current alternator with external diodes. Do you have any suggestions/videos/how to’s?
Hello Robin,
Have you added anything to the vehicle that would require a higher current alternator? The alternators that come with the vehicle are able to cover everything with some extra room as well. If your alternator is weak, it may just need replaced. If you are having grounding issues you just have to trace the chassis ground from the negative on the battery and make sure it isn’t loose or rusted. It may just need reset. The case to the alternator is the ground usually and the mounting bolts need a good solid connection as well. If you upgrade, you may have to run higher gauge wires to be able to handle the higher amps. Unfortunately we don’t have any videos on this but unless you have an upgraded sound system or have added other accessories that need more power, I would stick with what came with the chassis to be safe.
Hope this helps,
Dan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
where is the battery disconnect switch I can’t find it also I can’t find which fuse controls map lights please help thanks mark
I recently had my generator stop working while on a trip could not get started back, the refrigerator quit as well. I checked the house battery and it was fried (not a deep cycle) replaced it with new deep cycle and the generator still would not run (it turns over but will not start) I checked all fuses that i know about all good. do you have a step by step trobleshooting guide.
Hello,
You have to make sure it is a deep cycle battery and check the water levels often. Have you checked the oil level? Air filter? How old was the gas used? What generator do you have? Onan has a good manual with a troubleshooting guide that can be used to check other models as well. I will provide a link to it below. If the fridge was running when the genset was on, check the fuse on the control board on the back of the fridge (usually has one depending on the model). If your fridge gas and electric? Does it not work on both? If I could get the make and model of the fridge and generator I can help you troubleshoot better. https://power.cummins.com/sites/default/files/literature/rv/F-1123-EN.pdf
Hope this helps,
Dan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
My unit would only start using emergency start switch. Solution was the “chassis” switch on the Battery connect panel was in Off position. Spent all morning testing batteries, wires, fuses, etc, geeez.
We have a water leak somewhere around the freshwater pump and cannot pull all of that at this time.There is no shutoff valve between the back of the pump and the city waterline that prevents back flow that I can see. Is there a temp fix for this or anything?
What are the two red wires for and Theresa a brown and yellow,I had to order a latching control switch as there wasn’t one in it,and I’m not sure how to hook it up
my 12V system is not working no lite no anything 12V
Hello,
Are you plugged into an outlet? Do you have a good battery connected to the RV? If you are plugged into an outlet, depending on how old your converter is, there should still be 12v without a battery on the RV. I would check the converter and make sure there isn’t a blown fuse, they can be on the front by the fuse panel or on the converter itself which can be behind the distribution center. If you are just running off a battery I would check the voltage coming out of the battery. A good battery would read around 12.6VDC. If the battery has voltage, check for an in-line fuse. They are usually 30amp and can be blade fuses, reset breakers or thermal fuses. Make sure your battery connections are correct as well. If you have a motorhome, check the battery disconnect switch and if it can run off of the chassis battery to work.
Hope this helps,
Dan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
after I change house battery nothing work inside motorhome but everything work on genset what is problem
Hello,
Check the voltage at the batteries and make sure they are connected properly, not connected on the wrong posts. Check to see if there is an in-line fuse or breaker that might be tripped. The can also be a fuse on the distribution center preventing battery voltage from coming in. Also make sure the battery connections aren’t rusty. Check the chassis ground too, the battery negative might go directly to the frame and if the screw is busted or rusted would cause the battery not to work.
Hope this helps,
Dan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
battery disconnect not shutting off power to inside lights
lites inside trailer still work when key for battery disconnect is pulled
RV won’t start. No electricity driver information center, parking lights, headlights, or leveling system. Chassis & house switches appear to cause a relay to click, but the chassis indicate light does not light. Asile light switch works on dash. I have checked many fuses which are ok. Please help! Thank you!!!
We’re is the batter disconnect located not the switch the disconnect with the 5amp fues
Bi-directional isolator relay delay. Where is it located
when the battery disconnect is in storage are the lights and awning still suppose to work or should they be disconnected because mine still all function when in storage mood
I just purchased this 1996 jayco 2831b. a switch is located beside steering wheel that says 12volt master. what is this,and what is it for.
My batteries are good but I have no power to the coach. It starts fine, all switches are on, checked fuses and circuit breakers but no juice in the coach. No radio, power seats, no interior lights etc…HELP!!!
New to the site and RV ownership. I am looking forward to a long relationship with RV repair club.
Need to replace glide on drawers with gliders. stop rattle on driver and passenger side window. Fix driver side slider. Did not hold and slipped out while driving. Check hydrolic fuild. Grill has whistle noise. Window shade.
We bought our RV 2006. Had in the shop for accumlative 2 months. Long list. I would like to upgrade drawers guides with sliders. Fix window noise. fix slider came out. Hydrolic does not work. Fix whistle noise in grill.
Where is the battery disconnect located on our Motorhome?
The dash air conditioner stopped working along with the blower. Checked all the fuses, good. Unable to check the Air relays. Could this be the issue.
I need help covering out what I have did wrong connecting my coach to its 50 amp plug
in the rv there is a on/off switch in front of sink below counter, what exactly does this switch control
My RV has two switches as you come in the door. One is for chassis battery one for coach battery. Even when I put in off position the battery goes dead. Am I not doing something right by pushing the switch to the off position?
Having an issue with a breakaway switch. When the pin is pulled on it should I hear the brake magnets humming. I hear them when I apply the brakes by way of the TV, but not when the pin is pilled on the breakaway switch. Batteries are fully charged, switch is applying power all the way back to the magnets.
Hello Terilynn,
To provide more specific troubleshooting information on your breakaway switch, we need the make, model, and year of your rig. You should not “hear” the magnets when the brakes are applied and if you are getting something through the TV, then it’s probably interference from the electrical system of the brakes? Not sure why you hear something in the TV when the brakes are applied and not when the pin is pulled as they should be doing the same thing? Have you tested the brakeaway pin to see if it’s working? You can pull the pin and slowly pull the trailer ahead to see if the tires skid? I would suggest pulling the hubs off to see what’s going on or have a trailer expert work on it.
Thanks,
David
RV Repair Club Video Membership
The outlets that are connected to the GFCI outlet are not working but the GFCI outlet is not tripped and this outlet is working. Any answers to resolve this problem would be greatly appreciated.
Hello,
If a GFCI outlet gets overloaded and trips several times, the outlet becomes defective and will some times work but has the connecting plate at the screws for the other outlets “fried” or creates an open circuit which means no power going out. Shut off the main breaker, pull the GFCI out of the wall and inspect the wires and terminals. You should be able to do a continuity test to see if there is a closed circuit coming into and out of the outlet. Otherwise, you can turn the breaker back on and use a multimeter to check voltage coming out. My guess is you have no 120-volt power coming out of the GFCI.
Thanks,
David
RV Repair Club Video Membership
I have to replace my toggle/rocker switch for the main power, auxiliary battery inside motorhome. There are no screws on outside to remove cover plate.how do I get plate off to replace switch?
Driving down the road an audible alarm started going off. I pulled over, checked all components but found both. I did find the oil was a qt low, so I filled it. Alarm temporarily cleared, but came on again within 5 minutes. Our refrigerator will or light on propane, but didn’t know if that was on the circuit. Only solution I found to silence alarm was by shutting off disconnect switch. Problem I was towing and lost rear dolly lights and brakes.
Vin: 1F6NF53Y570A00382. Problem I’m having is the house batteries are not charging up over 50% they are less than six months old they are 24 ‘s – 750. Dash booster will click but won’t light or start batteries. Camera, dash fans won’t come on. Generator will click, click because bats are low. tried recharge batts for 15 minutes but won’t increase. Engine battery works fine. Slides/awnings work fine. Jacks have power but won’t come down Believe it’s the battery isolator. Help
Thank You for your assist
Robert Young
985-640-2574
Slide not working
Won’t start, apply brake unit makes noise, battery is fully charged. Any ideals?
Hello Ray,
Can you please supply us with the year, make, and model of your RV and we will look further into this for you.
Thanks,
Becky
RV Repair Club Video Membership
Hi all we have just brought a gulfstream sun sport rv 1989. And on arriving home it broke down, on restarted it melted the red cable that comes out of the battery. We are based in the uk and have no idea how to fix it. Can anyone give us a idea of why this has happened. Thanks Julie
My battery disconnect center will not turn off?
I have 2 batteries in my Travel Trailer and I want to hook up a disconnect switch. I got a switch from Amazon which has 2 posts. Can I hook the 2 batteries up to 1 post?
Replacement for passenger rear view door.
This mallard camper has sat for 9 years. Have cleaned the orifice in the gas line. I also blew out the exterior compartment and cleaned the stack. I have a brand new deep cell battery. When the fridge is on 110 both the freezer and fridge work well. when I am on lp the igniter pops and I see a nice blue flame and the stack gets warm. the freezer is ice cold and the fridge is warm. the freezer has a temp slider on the right side of the box and it is all the way up. Please send your solution to dashwaabradley@yaoo.com
Hello,
If it works on 120-volt power for both the freezer and refrigerator then your cooling unit is not blocked and you will need to verify 12-volt power and LP pressure? When you are connected to shoreline power, your converter is keeping your battery charged. I assume when you are using the LP mode of the refrigerator you are dry camping so you are drawing off the battery? Even though it’s brand new, doesn’t mean it’s holding the amp hours your rig is drawing? It will start out good, but then can drop fast if the plates are sulfated which could happen as soon as a couple months! Have you tried running on the LP mode with the rig plugged into shoreline power? This would tell you that the batteries were not providing enough amp hours? You may need to get a larger amp hour battery or a second one? Then you need to verify LP pressure. Even though you have a nice steady blue flame, when the water heater kicks on, or any other LP appliance, does the pressure drop and not provide enough flame/heat? Try this method of testing:
Lite one of the stove top burners and verify a nice steady blue flame. Open second one and see if the flame stays up on both. Next the third. Now run the refrigerator on LP mode and see what happens to the flames. If the unit sat for 9 years, the regulator may be to weak to supply enough pressure for multiple operations?
Hope this helps,
David
RV Repair Club Video Membership
Generac propane generator motor and all mechanical checked and good, no power getting to generator
wath can i paint the outer roof with, canyou tell me where i can by that coler ?
I need to know the location of the hydraulic pump that operates the slide-out. Maint check says check oil level etc. and to know how operate manually if the pump fails.
Innition turns, motor wouldn’t start. Battery is charged. Can jump start with connected power to the syonoid.
Searching for a electrical schematic diagram
RV Newbie and wondering where the house battery is located on my RV? There’s one in the front where the hydraulic system is located. I can’t get my slides to work except manually. Is there supposed to be another battery besides the one? Thanks
I am driving on the interstate and my auto leveler has a light flashing on the jacks down (they are not down) and a beeping alarm that comes and goes. Any ideas what we need to do?
I have a fifth wheel, 50 amp. I have my 50 amp cord with an adaptor plugged into a 110 house outlet. When the furnace ignites it causes the LED lights in the living room portion of the rv to flash on briefly and then they go off. Ideas as to what might be causing this and solutions would be helpful.
Why does my onan gas gen. Shutdown when i turn battery switch off,thanks.
Looking for battery disconnect have power to power lift only nothing to interior camper
Living at koa in slc . Power went out . No ac.or dc . Power in pole is working . I am not jooked up to a vehicle. Two days ago power would flicker on and off . If I used one appliance at a time it would work fine . Do I need good batties while hooked up to shore power ?
Can I wire a usb outlet to the battery disconnect?
Where are the sensors for the grey and black tanks? They don’t seem easy to access for replacement.
i have two questions i recently purchased this rv it is my first one the first question is in the compartment where the generator is i have a junction box with 2 110 wires in it do they both connect to the generator also there is a solenoid mounted on the frame of the rv about half way from the starter to the generator what does this do thanks
Battery disconnect will not switch off .Any ideas why ? Thanks
I have just purchased my first RV, a 2002 Coachmen Mirada 340MBS. The first trip went well, but on the second trip the house battery switch wouldn’t stay connected, The light came on and there was the usual click click sound from under the step and a whir sound from up the front, but when I released the switch the light goes out and the battery is not connected. If I hold the switch, the light stays on and I can press the ‘Step In ‘ switch and the step will store, so it’s getting power, but when I release it the light goes out and nothing is powered. The house battery is only a month old and is a 150AHr Gel battery, It measures 12.8 volts. Please advise thanks.
Hello Wayne,
Sounds like you have a bad switch? If you have to manually hold the switch down and it works, there must be a broken tab inside that doesn’t hold it in the on position, rather back to an open circuit? I would start by taking out the switch to see if there is any obvious broken part and change it first.
Thanks,
David
RV Repair Club Video Membership
There is a battery disconnect switch on the cupboard side wall next to the door. There is no ON/OFF indication on the plate for the switches???
How can I tell if the switches are on or off? They operate solenoids in the electrical control box under the hood. The solenoids switch from one side to another and are not spring return. I hear them click when I operate the switch back and forth but don’t know if the switches are on or off.
If I unplug the external 110v power, would I have a reading on the volt meters in the electricall control panel in the hallway?
I will appreciate any help with this
Thank you,, Art P
Out of Storage today…batteries dead…tried everything (including charging) :-).,
Freightliner M2 Business Class Chassis with Cummins ISB.
Could only get the coach to start/stay running when the 2 battery terminals on the fusebox under the hood were connected. We stumbled onto this when jumping it to get it started. The jumper cables were connected over the 2 terminals, and then when we removed them, the coach died. I used the vice-grips to get her to the dealer.
I supposed we could have hurt something while jumping?
We tried everything to get it started:
– jumping house batteries and using the override relay to start coach with house batteries
– putting jump on coach batteries (under driver seat – what a pain)
– putting jump on these terminals in engine area marked “Battery +”
Finally got her started when these connections were made…
Any ideas? Thanks so much,
Where is the light switch for the storage compartments underneath the coach?
Flip the switch to USE on the battery disconnect, after about 20min lost power as a burning smell appears. Was not able to pin point the location of the smell. As of now no power to lights or monitoring center. However, during shore power I get power on the 110 outlets, including microwave, and tv, and still no interior lights. On generator no interior lights power no outlets no microwave. No fuse blown on power distributions no power in the DC PD fuse. NO DC 12v power. GFCI working fine on 110 shore power. Could it be my convertor or solenoid?
Hello Bounthanome,
To provide more specific troubleshooting information we need the make, model, and year of your RV. If you have a battery disconnect switch you probably have a Battery Isolation Manager or BIM that is usually located in the battery compartment. This not only disconnects the battery when they get charged, but also provides a jump start for the engine battery in the case of a motorhome. Otherwise you have a simple battery disconnect solenoid that has probably shorted out and is not allowing 12-volt power to pass through to the distribution center. I would take a simple 12-volt light meter and start at the batteries and find where the power stops?
Thanks,
David
RV Repair Club Video Membership
generator stalls the first 3 times to start the4 time it starts and runs great whats the cause
generator stalls when starting for 3 times then the 4 time it starts runs great what would cause the stalling
Hello William,
To provide more specific troubleshooting information we need the make, model, and year of your generator. If it’s a permanently mounted version, it’s probably an Onan? If so, the first thing I would check is if it has a winter/summer lever or an altitude adjustment? This will change the air to fuel ratio which might be your issue. Then I would change the oil and air cleaner to make sure you are starting with a clean system. Then add some fuel additive like SeaFoam or Onan’s brand. If it still does it, it probably varnish starting to form in the carburetor. Gas generators need to be run for 30 minutes once a month under at least 1/2 load to burn out the varnish.
Thanks,
Becky
RV Repair Club Video Membership
Black water volume indicator shows 2/3 full even when empty
battery in my RV went dead so I replaced it with a new Optima blue marine battery connected positive and negative and I have no lights in my rig do you know where the reset button is or Or what do I replace or inspect
Just bought a 2006 Salem camping trailer with a leak in the roof, all I need to know is what material the roof is composed of. Can anyone help ?
Latch on basement door for access to propane tank will not release. From under side, I removed the handle to be able to pull the rods to the catch. One side released, other will not even with the rod extended. Any secrets to get latch to release?
Hello Renick,
It seems as though the arm has bent or stuck on something? Since
it’s the propane door, you should have access to the hinge from underneath
as it is an open compartment? I would suggest going through the
bottom/back side and see if you can remove the actual latch on the side of
the compartment? Or can you get to the hinge and take the door
off? This would make it easier to work on the door on a bench and
you will probably need to take the door apart?
Thanks,
David RVRC Video Membership
Where is the best place to mount a battery disconnect switch?
Hi William. To provide more specific information on the best location of your battery disconnect switch we need the make, model, and year of your rig. If it’s a trailer, the battery would be outside on the tongue or front compartment, most Class A units are in the steps, and Class C units are in a front compartment so they would all have a different location. It’s best to mount it as close to the battery as possible but in an easy to access location. Also I would not recommend mounting it outside as moisture can get at the connections.
Thanks
Dave-RVRC
what are 2 fusible links from house battery for ? they are both corroded beyond use and I don’t know where they go or what to replace them with. thank you!!!!
Squeak under the dashboard there’s a thin unit next to the emergency brake system just left of it looks like an iPad turned on its side when I push on it while driving the noise goes away / what is that unit and can I fix it
Will mot crank.. Power light comes on but will not turn over. Tried jumping switch no difference. Getting power on battery cable at gen set.
Hello Al,
To provide more specific troubleshooting information on what I believe is a non starting generator, we need the make, model, and year of your rig and the generator. If it’s a typical Onan, you need to verify 12-volt power coming to the starter and the switch. If you have 12-volts at the starter, it could be a stuck starter at which time you would need to pull it off and bench test.
Thanks,
David RVRC Video Membership
There are 2 rocker switches for Main and Aux batteries near the passenger seat. These I believe turn off the chassis & house battery banks. I have to have them on to get power from a solar panel to the batteries through the dash cig lighter type outlet.
There is a rotary switch between the battery compartments labeled On & Off. They appear to connect the 2 battery banks in parallel because there is only 1 positive cable from each bank connected to it. Is that correct? When should it be in the Off position and why?
Hello James,
To provide more specific information on your switches, we need the make, model, and year of your rig. I agree that the main and aux switches are for the chassis and house batteries, but the rotary switch has me a little confused? It sounds like it might have been installed aftermarket? I’m not aware of anyone putting in a shut off between two batteries connected parallel as you would want them both being drained and charged at the same rate?
Thanks,
David RVRC Video Membership
after one week new house batt and engine batt are dead nothing is on
One of my batteries exploded. Repair person could not find a reason. Suspects leveler motor emitted hydrogen may be the cause. Anyone know? Thanks
Sometimes a battery will fail and the plates stick together causing a short and over charges and consequently explodes. Have seen before and our battery supplier said faulty battery.
All my appliances have pilot light electronic ignition I think. The book says before you turn on the propane, you have to turn off the remote switch for the igniters. Is this the same as the battery disconnect switch. I am new to this and don’t want to explode with the RV igniting the appliances, furnace refrig and water heater/ stove? Manuals leave a lot to speculation. I’m confused?
Hello Michael,
I believe what they are trying to describe is the safest procedure to open the LP tank or cylinders in the case of a travel trailer. It is recommended that you shut off the battery with the disconnect switch and make sure the unit is not plugged into shoreline power. Then verify all LP valves to the appliances are off. If you have a stove top valve open, it will fill the rig with LP so make sure everything is off. Now open the valve slowly so there isn’t a fast rush of LP which would trigger the excess flow valve in the ACME connector at the cylinder or tank. Wait a few minutes and then go inside to see if the LP Leak detector is chirping or you smell LP. If there is a leak and the you smell the distinct odor of rotten eggs or the LP Leak Detector is chirping, immediately shut off the LP supply and call a dealer! If not, turn the house batteries back on and individually start the LP appliances. Most will have a Direct Spark Ignitor (DSI) which automatically opens the valve and sends a spark to light the burner assembly rather than a pilot light. The stove top generally has a manual spark ignitor commonly referred to as the Peizo just like your residential grill. You either turn a knob that sends a spark, or push a button. If you have an oven, this generally has a pilot light that needs to be lit.
Hope this helps? For more info, check out the videos on the site pertaining to the overview of operations of specific appliances. Most of them are free!
Thanks,
David RVRC Video Membership
Thanks to David for your help!
bedroom HWH slide will not move when switch is activated
There is a faint buzzing noise throughout my 5th wheel that seems to come and go when I turn lights on and off. When I turn my batteries off it goes away completely. I’m in a 2016 Jaco 5th wheel on city power at RV Park.
Hello Michael,
Buzzing can be caused by several things inside an RV and it’s good you isolated it to the 12-volt side since it stops when the batteries are turned off. Most of the buzzing I have experienced has come from light fixtures and usually the fluorescent ceiling lights. I would start by having everything on and taking out individual bulbs to see if you can identify the actual source of the buzzing. It could also be feedback through speakers if you are using a surround sound that is powered by 12-volt. Also, check your TV as I have had feedback coming through the TV from a 12-volt source that causes interference.
Thanks,
David RVRC Video Membership
Feeling the need to replace all batteries, there a few years old, trying to figure out what to buy, I currently have 2 12 V start batteries, Maintenance free, and 4 6V house, non maintenance free, could you advise me on what I should be doing and of course, trying to be economical, my current batteries are Econo Power, wondering if I should go maintenance free on house also ??
Thanks
Bill
Hello Bill,
Since you indicated these are Econo-Power, I would bet they are not original as most of the house batteries don’t last much longer than 2-3 years due to improper charging and storing which results in sulfation. There are a lot of cheap deep cycle batteries out there so be careful about what you buy. Winnebago went to the NAPA brand as the plates are thicker so they hold up longer during “cycling” and the welds are superior than most batteries they have tested. If you are looking for lead acid batteries, I would suggest the NAPA brand or Trojan but make sure you charge and store them properly! Lead acid batteries require a multistage charge every month which starts with a high voltage bulk charge and then an equalizing and float stage. Larger inverters have this feature, otherwise I would suggest getting a Battery Minder from Northern Tool. If you do not do a lot of dry camping, I would suggest getting the lead acid batteries and match the amp/hr rating of your current batteries. If you want to step it up, then look at a higher “group” rating which is more amp/hrs or you can opt for the worry free Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) batteries from Lifeline. You will still need to consider the amount of amp/hrs required for dry camping, however these will last much longer and will not sulfate as fast. Visit http://www.lifelinebatteries.com for more info and how to calculate what size you need.
For the engine battery, I would suggest contacting a diesel truck service center to match the cold cranking amps (CCA) you need for your rig. Most of these service centers have a track record of what batteries are the best and last so there is less “junk” available from them.
Thanks,
David RVRC Video Membership
steps will not extend, wondering has anyone else had this problem
I bought my Lance 1685 travel trailer about 6 weeks ago. I just noticed today that the red LED running lights at the back of the trailer won’t turn off. These lights are supposed to be off when the trailer is not connected to the tow vehicle…..correct? The yellow running lights at the front of the trailer only come on when the trailer umbilical cord is connected to the tow vehicle. The red running LED lights only go off when I disconnect the electrical power cord. Do you know what could be causing this issue?
Hello Ralph,
The running lights are supposed to be powered by the tow vehicle power
through the 7 pin power cord. If they stay on while disconnected,
somewhere you have a 12-volt wire from the house batteries powering the
lights which is incorrect If you just bought it, take it back and
have it corrected.
Thanks,
David RVRC Video Membership
We run with two batteries. One in service and one on standby. After one incident of finding a dead battery upon hooking up, we’ve added a second battery along side the first and have installed a disconnect at the batteries.
The electric jack is powered from the tow vehicle instead of the on-board source there by eliminating the problem of not being able to power the jack incase of a power drain! So far the set-up has proved to be very satisfying as it has eliminated a lot of teeth grinding!!!!
We keep our camper on a lot with no electricity available. When I’m there I connect the camper to my truck and leave my truck running to save the camper battery. I do this to prevent battery drain When I open my slideouts. When I check the monitor it indicates the battery is half charged. Is there any benifit to connecting and running my truck to the camper.
steps will not extend
Do you have to disconnect the battery of the RV has a battery shut off switch?
running lights below head light on left stays on when they are turned off. thanks Gary
Hello Gary,
To provide more specific troubleshooting information on your running light staying on, we need the make, model, and year of your rig as well as the chassis brand. The running lights would have nothing to do with the battery disconnect switch as they run off the chassis battery and the disconnect is for the house batteries. If the light stays on, you have power coming to the fixture from a wire touching after the light switch? Trace the positive wire from that fixture back to the switch to find the issue.
Thanks,
David RVRC Video Membership
ReplaceD the starter, still won’t start. Might be bad starter? 2nd run generator but no power in side???? We’re new to just don’t understand. Thanks
This question has nothing to do with Battery Disconnect switches, but I do not see a section specific to my question, so I will ask here. Regarding RV slides, I have a slide out that needs alignment, so I started to inspect the underside to determine adjustment procedure. In the process, I discovered a support roller where the shaft has come out of what appears to be a brass bushing; in effect, that roller is doing nothing to help support the slide weight, and, it may be a contributing factor in my misalignment. Currently, the slide, when extended, has about 1 and a quarter inch greater gap on the bottom than on the top, so I suspect a previous owner may have adjusted the slide as high as he could to get the weight off the roller??? Anyway, I am wondering if you have an tips as to how to repair or replace this roller. It is almost impossible to access. I have tried to realign the shaft to the bushing, and tap it back into place, but since I do not have a clear view to the bushing and shaft, I am basically working by feel! And, if I did succeed in getting it back together, I do not see what is supposed to keep the shaft in place, unless it is a friction fit (shaft to bushing), which I doubt. Any suggestions on repair or replacement procedure will be much appreciated.
Thank you.
Wayne
Hi Wayne. To provide more specific troubleshooting information on your issue with the slide room roller we need the make, model, and year of your RV and what slide room it pertains to? Also, if you could provide a photo of what you can see, we should be able to identify the component and provide more in information.
Thanks
Dave-RVRC
The make, model, and year of the motorhome are as noted in this email. The slide out is for the salon area i.e. front, driver’s side. It is what I would call a rack and pinion drive mechanism. I believe the rollers are to support the weight of the slide out. To update, I was able to get the roller shaft back in the bushing, but I am still curious as to why it came apart; I expect there is a failed cotter pin or some method of holding the shaft in position, as otherwise, it will continue to come apart. Diagnosis is difficult due to limited access. It appears that the complete slide out may have to come out to gain access for replacement or repair of this roller design, as the plates that hold it are welded in place; alternatively, it would have to be assembled piece by piece on the shaft, and then the shaft tapped into the brass bushings. This would be an almost impossible task given the access with the slide out in place. I will forward a picture as you have requested. I do not know if this was built by Coachmen or whether it was a purchased mechanism for these motorhomes. Is there any technical help from Coachmen? I had asked a previous question to the Coachmen internet site, on another subject; the result was not encouraging, in that they replied that they were not the builders in 2001, and had no knowledge to help on that issue. I guess Coachmen were bought out by another company after 2001? Appreciate whatever help you can offer.
Regards,
Wayne
Sometimes my fridge wont light when i switch over to LP when I disconnect the shoreline power. The igniter is intermittent and always lights when it clicks, it just doesnt always work. I havent been able to find any loose/bad connections and sometimes it takes several plug/unplug sequences to get the igniter to fire.
Thanks for your time
Hi Steve. To provide more specific troubleshooting information we need the make, model, and year of the refrigerator. Have you tried running it on LP when connected to shoreline? You should have a switch inside that is either auto or gas. When it’s on the auto mode, it will run on 120-volt electricity if available. When you unplug, it switches to gas mode which you have described. When the switch is on the gas mode, it will only run on LP. Try putting it on the gas setting while plugged in and see if you still have the intermittent issues? The reason for trying this is when you are plugged in, the converter of your rig will be supplying 12-volt DC power through the batteries. If it works fine while plugged in, I suspect your batteries are sulfated or have a bad cell? The refrigerator needs at least 10.5-volts or more depending on the model to open the gas valve and power the spark ignitor.
If you have an intermittent attempt to light and do not hear any clicking at times and your batteries are good, it sounds like a module issue which could be a cold crack in a solder point that opens at a certain temperature?
Thanks
Dave-RVRC
Leveler doesn’t work
Check the power to everything. Everything has power except the solenoid switch on the pump motor.
do the house batteries charge when hooked to shore power during storage.?
is it ok to put a trickle charger o. the chassis battery when hooked to shore power when storing?
My Hydraulic Slides creep out slowly while driving.
Hi Ralph. To provide more specific troubleshooting information on your slide room issue we need the make, model, and year of your RV. It could be low fluid level or in the case of an HWH mechanism a weak extend solenoid. I would suggest starting with checking the fluid level in the reservoir and checking for any leaks in the system. Most hydraulic slide mechanisms also run the jacks so check everything. HWH does have test listed on their site if this is the type you have. You can find them here: https://hwhcorp.com/
Thanks
David-RVRC
We have lost all DC power and air conditioning but 120 volt circuits are still working off of ground power. Tried resetting everything and checking everything. Have a brand new inverter and a recent checkup. This event took place a minute or so after starting the heater.three cold nights ago on a weekend so have not had it looked at appointment in the morning. wheelchair bound husband no additional transpotation so we have been pretty isolated, food spoiling and one freezing night. Any ideas?
Hello Doug & Jane,
It sounds like you have several things going on as the air conditioner runs on 120-volt AC power only and has nothing to do with the house batteries, inverter, or heater? 120-volt power comes into the rig via shoreline power and goes to the distribution center. A circuit breaker is installed for the air conditioner as well as other 120-volt AC appliances and wiring goes up to the unit. You would need to verify 120-volt power coming out of the breaker and going to the unit. If you have a thermostat that controls both the heat and the air conditioner than it’s possible that is bad? The heater runs off 12-volt DC power and LP so your 12-volt DC issue could be the inverter has had some type of issue. It’s best to get it into a RVIA certified technician so they can check everything with the proper meters.
David RVRC Video Membership
I have no power to the electrical outlets from the tv outlet to all the front outlets. I do have power to the gfci outlet at the bathroom sink. I was told there are two fuse centers in my trailer, but I can’t seem to locate the second. I have checked the fuses and breakers in the fuse center under the frig.
Hello Mark,
The 120-volt shoreline power comes into your rig to the distribution center which has a main breaker and then circuit breakers for 120-volt appliances, outlets, and the converter. Check the circuit breakers at the distribution center as some manufacturers have one circuit for the outlets that are near a water source and require a GFCI breaker and another for outlets such as the bedroom and living room. Also, it could be you have two separate GFCI circuits going in different directions. Typically you will have one electrical wire referred to as “Romex” running from the circuit breaker at the distribution center to a main GFCI outlet with the test button and reset either in the bathroom or kitchen. Then another Romex wire is connected to that same GFCI outlet on the second set of terminals and is routed to other outlets which is called “ganged” as there could be several outlets connected in this same fashion just like the outlets in your garage or living room of your home. If you have a GFCI outlet at the first connection, all other outlets on the circuit are protected by the GFCI but will usually not have the test/reset button and are known as “dummy plates”. They should have a GFCI Protected sticker on them, but that does not always stay on.
So what this means is…you could have one or two GFCI test/reset outlets on different circuits and if that outlets trips, or becomes defective, the other outlets on that “gang” or circuit will not get power. Get a non-contact voltage tester from any home improvement store and test the power coming in and out! You may have power to the outlet, but if it has an “open” situation from the connecting points on the outlet, you will not have power going to the next outlet. This can be verified with a non-contact voltage meter by simply testing the wire coming into the outlet, checking the outlet itself, and testing the wire coming out. Do this for all outlets that are not working.
Check out the videos on the site on testing power with a non-contact voltage tester on GFCI here:
https://www.rvrepairclub.com/video/when-was-the-last-time-that-you-tested-your-rv-gfci-outlets-007834/
Thanks,
David RVRC Video Membership
Total newbie, took RV on maiden voyage and all was perfect. Except at last stop we stayed for 6 nights connected to shore power (30 amp). We got up to leave at 0530 and chassis battery completely dead. We were able to hit the button and use house batteries to crank it up but the chassis battery still won’t hold a charge. Several questions, a) should I have had the inverter turned on while connected to keep chassis battery charged? b) We did not leave on any lights or dash outlets. There was a usb adapter plugged into the cigarette lighter but nothing attached. What would be draining the chassis battery? c) Is there any way to save a chassis battery or just replace? Any chance this could be a warranty issue? Thank you for any guidance!!
Hello Jeff,
To provide more specific troubleshooting information on what is happening with your chassis battery we need the make, model, and year of your RV. Since you indicated a chassis battery issue and were able to hit a button and jump start it with a house battery it tells me you have a motorhome. The engine battery for your rigs is an automotive type battery that is designed to stay charged all the time and is rated in CCA which is cold cranking amps meaning the ability to start the engine without being plugged in. Your house batteries are deep cycle which are designed to be drained to a specific percent and recharged which is called “cycling”. In the typical motorhome configuration, you will have one engine battery and one or two deep cycle house batteries. Often times these are placed in the same compartment either under an entry step or in a compartment. The engine battery is only charged by the engine alternator while the engine is running. The house batteries are charged by an on-board converter when plugged into shoreline power, running a generator, or by solar panels. In your case, they are also being charged by the engine alternator with the engine running through a solenoid typically placed in the house battery compartment. This solenoid is designed to allow a charge from the alternator to go to the house batteries, but will not allow any house or RV 12-volt functions to draw power from the engine battery. So using an inverter or anything else on the RV side would not drain the engine battery. It also allows a temporary “jump” from the house batteries to the engine battery but is spring loaded so it will not stay on once you release the switch.
If after 6 nights your engine battery was dead, you have either a weak engine battery, or something draining the battery on the engine side of your rig. First, disconnect the USB adapter at the cigarette lighter connection as this will draw from the engine battery. If you are connected to shoreline power, get a USB that connects to a 120-volt outlet and get the free charge that will not draw from the engine battery. Next, find out what type of draw you have on the engine battery! The engines CPU (computer) will draw some to remember various engine information for fuel mixture, transmission shift points and other driving calibrations but that should not draw enough to deplete the battery in 6 days? I would suggest doing a parasitic drain test by removing the negative cable from the battery and using a multi-meter to test DC voltage by placing one probe on the negative cable and the other on the post. You should see what type of draw you have. If there is no draw, you have a weak battery.
Thanks,
David RVRC Video Membership
New to RVing. We used out new RV for a weekend camp, every great. It was then parked for 2 weeks. Went out to start today and all batteries are dead. I am not sure of the steps I need to do when parking for a while to be sure everything is off so this does not happen again. Can not find actual steps to turning things on and off in the mountain for manuals that came with it. Batteries are charging now, how it starts tomorrow.
I’m permanent camper and suddenly the battery is empty. How can I check the charger?
I am having the same problem with my chassis battery as well as the house battery. I had the disconnect off on the house battery and in less than two weeks they both were totally drained down. Could the two problems be related? I can not find anything I have left on to drain the chassis battery down. Could the chassis battery drain down if the house battery is draining down by LP sensor being directly connected to the battery like was discussed. Thanks.
elect water htr will not heat after 120V disconnected and re-plugged. gas works fine, breakers are on, switch is on, can you help Thanks
Hello Carroll,
To provide more specific troubleshooting information we need the make, model, and year of your water heater. It’s either an Atwood or Suburban and both have a relay on the back side of the unit that directs it to start on 120-volt AC current. Disconnect the 120-volt plug and plug it back in and listen for a click. You can check voltage in and out of the relay during operation to determine if it’s the relay, or if there is no click, it could be the heat element which you can check Ohm readings.
Thanks,
David RVRC Video Membership
ignition and starter problems.I have the starter check (ok) the batteries check(ok).when I turn the ignition switch the rv will not start?won’t even crank the starter?
Hello Domingo,
To provide more specific troubleshooting information regarding your
starting issue we need the make, model, and year of the RV and the
chassis. If you had the starter and the battery verified, then it is
probably a crank sensor for the engine in conjunction with the CPU?
Whoever checked your battery and starter should have gone to this
next? It needs to go to a qualified mechanic and checked on the code
machine.
Thanks,
David RVRC Video Membership
12 volt converter will only operate when red wire from batteries is disconnected at converter. This wire measures direct short to ground. At disconnect it reads 13.7 volts. Camper is equipped with solar charger. Do I have a pinched wire or could there be another problem
Hello Gary,
To provide more specific troubleshooting information on your converter
issue, we need to know the make, model, and year of the converter. I
believe you have some type of short as pulling the positive wire off the
battery (red wire) should not allow the converter to work? Is the
converter part of the distribution center or a stand alone model? If
it’s a stand alone, I would start by removing it and bench testing the
converter away from all other components. You should be able to
measure the voltage output?
Thanks,
David RVRC Video Membership
Chassis disconnect; when the unit is disconnect position, the engine can be started & driven. Also stabilizers function ,radio, headlights etc on chassis side function. Steps do not. Is this a faulty solinoid or design intent?
This question concerns the “Coach Batt” rocker switch just above the footwell. I believe it is used to disconnect the coach batteries from the 12V accessories during storage. This switch has a green pilot light and I cannot turn it off. Further, I cannot find a replacement switch anywhere on the Internet. I removed the switch assembly from the wall, turned it around and found the manufacturer’s name “Carling” on it. I am unsure if the switch is bad, or possibly something downstream from it has failed. Any advice is appreciated.
Alarm sounds when traveling down the road AC shuts off along with other things we continue but touching the auxiliary start switch puts everything back on. It will happen again but it’s intermittent ever heard of this before.
Off pos side of battery got a heavy wire goes to big fuse other side of fuse goes to what looks like a starter solinoid what is all this and were can i get a fuse that big
Where is the battery shut off switch on my 2013 class c rv
The starter batteries are not charging?..why
I have a 2013 jayco Seneca 37fk. Lately my house batteries have been really hot while connected to shore power. When disconnected from shore power they drain rapidly. Maybe an hour or so. Now the battery disconnect won’t shut off. Ideas? Maybe overcharging?
My chassis (main) battery disconnect switch seems to be giving problems. Request to know how to troubleshoot switch. Thanks in advance.
The battery disconnect switch is not clicking on to provide house battery power. The switch is a Wesco #0269215. I had the battery voltage checked one was 6.5 and 5.5. Should I replace it. theswitch?
Mini Power Control System will not indicate gen mode when running on generator power, indicates 30A hence will not run both A/C units. Generator is wired to a LCI Generator Genie.
I have a black wire hanging down from group of wires that comes from the Trailer Plug in. All the coach lights work great, but the trailer Turn signals don’t work? My thought are if I can find out where the Black wire attaches, then the trailer light would work. Any Ideas?
Hello William,
You need to verify the wiring from the vehicle if it’s a 4 pin, 6 pin, or 7 pin connector which should be in the owner’s manual. Typically the black wire is for 12-volt power on a 7 pin? Or you might have a 7 pin trailer connector and a 6 pin vehicle outlet so the black was not used? Another place to check is the vehicle fuse block. We’ve had several trailers with turn signal issues and found the fuse blown for the trailer plug!
Hope this helps!
David RVRC Video Membership
Being new to RV’ing I’m confused on my shut off switches. There are two switches but the problem is they only say “off” or “on.” What I can’t decide is if the batteries are disconnected when the switch is turned to “on” or “off.” When flipped to the “on” position do I assume the switch is activated shutting the batteries off or does it mean I’m turning the batteries on. Sure wish they would have labels them “connect” and “disconnect.”
Hello Marvin,
Typically the “On” position means the batteries are connected to the system and the “Off” is disconnected, however I learned very early in my RV career to never say “Always”! With all the variables in manufacturers, aftermarket providers, installers on the line, and such the only way I would be sure what position your switches operate is to test them! Since you did not provide a make, model, and year of the rig I can only guess that if you have two switches, one is probably for the engine battery, the other for the house batteries on a motorhome? To verify, make sure your all your batteries are properly charged, then with both switches “On” turn on a few interior lights or roof vents. If they do not turn on, change the switches to “Off” to verify. They should work on one of the positions. Then turn one switch to the opposite position it was working on to see if the lights go off. If they don’t, do the same for the other switch, this will identify which switch is for the house batteries and now you should know what connects and disconnects. The same can be done for the engine battery, just try starting with the same sequence.
I agree, they should say connect and disconnect, however I’ve found the smallest items are driven by $$$. It costs more to stamp print 15 letters vs 5 which seems insane, but if you make a million of these switches every year, it does add up!
Thanks,
David RVRC Video Membership
My slide out sometimes works and sometimes won’t. I have replaced the controller but it still does this. Is there a way to test the switch? Or any ideas on my problem?
I was cooking and had too much pluged in to electric. I thought I kicked the breaker, but I checked those and the fuse, I tried to check the gfi plug but it wouldn’t stay in. Could that be bad
I have had a continuous problem with the batteries being nearly totally discharged after being left in storage. The period of time can be two days to one month.
One battery is for normal house loads; the other is supposed to be dedicated to the inverter for the refrigerator. I have a Battery Isolation switch installed to disconnect the batteries when not in use, and I position it to Disconnect when I park it. Every time I go to pick th trailer up from storage, the house battery is boiled nearly dry, and the refrigerator battery is about half boiled dry. The time of year does not appear to matter. I have to add distilled water to both batteries and attach jumper cables from my truck to the house battery to charge it enough to operate the jack to attach it to my truck. (We have had the trailer for a little over a year now.)
I turn the disconnect switch on when I hook up my truck to the trailer. This provides lights, but does nothing for the jack. Attaching shore power provides all the power I need for parking the trailer at the house for maintenance or getting ready for a trip. I find that the main battery gets boiled dry while attached to shore power and does not really hold a charge that long.
I have addressed this problem numerous times with the dealer and they do not seem able to find any problem. They say both batteries are good and they cannot find any grounds or spurious loads. I have tried charging the batteries on shore power and isolating loads in the trailer at the fuse box, but have had no luck.
Any suggestions?
Hello Chuck,
To provide more specific troubleshooting information regarding your battery issue we need the make, model, and year of your rig. Also, it would be helpful to know what type of batteries you have and the amp hour rating? I’m surprised you dealer has found nothing wrong, however they are probably just throwing a typical charge on the batteries and hooking up a simple tester which shows they are good. They only way you can verify deep cycle battery capacity is to do a multistage charge which throw a high voltage charge and breaks up the sulfation, then goes into a float and equalizing stage. Then the battery should sit for several hours and then connected to a 25 amp draw machine to calculate the hours it lasts to draw down to 10.5 amps. I’m guessing the dealer did not do that!
You stated that one battery is dedicated to the house systems, the other to the inverter and the refrigerator? If you have one battery connected to an inverter supplying the refrigerator it will not last much more than a few hours!
I would suggest doing some verification on your own by starting with a parasitic draw test. If you think everything is shut off and the batteries are disconnected by the switch, pull off the negative cable from the post and use a 12-volt light tester to see if there is a draw. Place the wire clip on the cable and touch the light tester to the terminal. If it lights up, you have something drawing from the battery, usually the LP leak detector!
I would suspect your batteries are probably sulfated to the point they will not hold energy for any amount of time. This is a common issue with RVs as very few owners know how to properly charge a deep cylce battery. Once a month they require a multistage charge as indicated earlier and that very seldom happens. Plus, leaving them just sitting in storage will drain the batteries and create sulfation.
You stated when the rig is in storage you disconnect the batteries but when you go to pick it up, the batteries are “boiled” dry and “half boiled dry”? Are you connected to an electrical source when in storage? The only way the batteries can loose fluid is if the converter is on pumping the normal 14+ volts for charging which will gas or “boil” the fluid out? If you have disconnected the batteries or do not have the rig plugged in, there is no way for fluid to be lost unless you have a cracked case?
Thanks,
David RVRC Video Membership
Many inverters are hard wired directly to the battery and as a result they continue to draw current even with the disconnect switch in the off position. We had that problem in our 2013 Itasca Meridian and also have it in our 2015 Phaeton that replaced the Meridian. There is a high amp switch from Blue Sea that can be wired into the circuit that totally disconnects the inverter from the battery.
The dinette slide out has always been sketchy. It barely makes it out every time. We don’t have any items on it and I keep the gears lubricated. I was curious if a more powerful motor is an option? And is that something I can do? I just replaced the motor on my automatic step, it was pretty simple.
My unit is new. My wife and I have only taken it out 3 – 4 times. The kitchen sink has been slow to drain since the start. I’ve used baking soda and white distilled vinegar along with hot water and a plunger. I find it hard to believe that the drain is clogged. Any suggestions? Could it be a venting problem?
Hi Wayne. Since the unit is that new, I would not believe it’s a venting problem more like a clog? But it’s hard to tell without seeing the unit. Since it is new, I would suggest taking it to the dealer to have it looked at? If that is not an option, you could take the “P” trap off under the sink to see if it’s clogged. During the build of your RV it’s not uncommon for sawdust, plastic, and other materials to fall into the sink and plug it up. Baking soda and even a plunger might not be enough. Maybe get a plastic “snake” from a home improvement store and run it down the drain? I would also check the roof vents to make sure they are clear.
Thanks
Dave-RVRC
My slide and auto levelers stopped working. I had electrician check all fuses and breakers. When I tried to use slides they went out half way and stopped. No more power to them. When I tried to level coach the 12v motor came on but burnt up. I got a new motor and an RV technician to come out and put on new motor to hydraulic system. Still no power to slides and levelers just make 12v motor hot. I have checked hydraulic fluid and is OK. Don’t know what to do next. When I push the slide button, nothing happens. Not a click or sound. Just dead. I heard there is a fuse or breaker between the ignition and the slide buttons. Is this true? I checked the 100 amp breaker in the battery compartment and it is OK. The battery shutoff just inside the door works fine. Please help me.
I am installing an Onan propane generator in my unit and the Precision circuits Mini-Power Control System only allows my generator 30 amps of output. The unit came ” generator prep” and the generator is connected to a LPI generator genie. So I can remote start, stop from the display, also has an hour meter. But am not able to run both A/C’s. Thank you
Hi Breck. To provide more specific troubleshooting information on the Onan generator you are installing we need the make, model, and year of your rig as well as the Onan model. Typically the Onan generator will have two circuits a 30 amp that goes to the distribution center and a 20 amp that goes to the second air conditioner circuit breaker separate from the main bus bar. This way you can run both off the genset. You will need to get a wiring diagram of your coach distribution center and contact the company that makes the generator genie.
Thanks
Dave-RVRC
The wiring dia. that came with it from Onan is connected the the transfer switch. 3 pole, central neutral and a line on each side.
I want to connect a battery disconnect on my new travel trailer but with it having to 12volt batteries and an inverter, I’m not sure which negative cable I’m supposed to hook up to the switch. There are 3 negative cables hooked up to the battery. One of the neg cables is going directly to the inverter in the storage compartment, another neg cable goes to a grounding block mounted under the coach on the frame and the third neg cable goes to the second battery. The second battery has 1 positive cable hooked up to the other battery. Which cable would I use to go to the switch? If I turn off all my circuit breakers inside the coach, would that cut off all loads too and serve the same purpose if the battery switch doesn’t work out?
WE HAVE RV POWER,12.5 VOLTS AND ENGINE START IS DEAD AND THE STEP WONT COME OUT HOW DO YOU START ENGINE WITH HOUSE BATTERY
Hello Robert,
To provide more specific troubleshooting information on jump starting a dead chassis battery from the house batteries we need the make, model, and year of your RV. Typically there is a momentary switch located on the dash that is spring loaded which provided power from the house batteries to the chassis battery? If the step will not come out, you might also have a battery disconnect switch that cuts off the house batteries so when you store it, there isn’t a drain on the house batteries from something left on like compartment lights? This is usually located on the side of the step well entering the rig. Make sure the disconnect is on by checking interior lights, if they come on, the batteries are connected and you should be able to jump the chassis battery. If all else fails, get a set of jumper cables and connect the house batteries to the chassis battery.
Thanks,
David RVRC Video Membership
Thermal Pain Windows fogged up, seal broken. Recommendation is to replace all three windows.
Here is a one trip fix. Drill hole in soft seal, insert basket ball needle, connect to a vacuum pump. A couple hours later the window is clear. (Seal is broken in the first place, so drilling a small hole will have little effect on future water condensation) Refill drill hole with a sealant.
Coach battery dead after storage. Measured .25 A drain, with the coach battery switch open. Installed switch on the ground side of the battery. Engine already had a switch that disconnected the battery
How can I tell if the inverter is the cause of the battery draining when not plugged into 110 power?
While hooked up to 50 amp in r.v. park in the night i woke up to my generator running, if we lost a.c. power during the night could the generator start itself? The air cams and refer were on before this happend, on a.c. power. Thank you.
Our Winnebago Brave 34d, W22 workhorse chassis, 8.1 litre GM.
The Allison transmission seems to “wander” maybe 200 rpm with overdrive off or on at 2200 to 3000 rpm. A noticeable shifting can be heard and felt.
Apparently my disconnect switch is not functioning. For now, can I disconnect the battery cables to preserve voltage in batteries until I can get it into a shop? Is this a bad idea? Thanks- from a brand new motorhome owner.
Hi Paul. The battery disconnect switch is designed to shut off any draw from the house batteries when not in use such as storage compartment lights, interior lights, and others. Some manufacturers use a separate lead from the batteries to the LP leak detector which bypasses the disconnect so that can draw the batteries down as well. Simply disconnect the negative cable from whatever negative cable goes to the distribution center or relay and it will prevent a draw. Since you stated batteries, they are either connected in series (6-volt) or parallel (12-volt) and one positive and one negative terminal is the feed to the coach.
Dave-RVRC
Wiring diagram for interfacing Intellitec latching solenoid battery disconnect system w/ 8-prong Winnebago momentary dual pole-dual throw switch … have solenoid wire details, searching for switch input/output diagram
Battery disconnect can’t be shut off
What additional components would you add to the suspension system to help in wind gusts, truck gusts, pot holes to make for an easier drive
my battery disconnect not getting power
my battery disconnect not getting power,so is the board for the big foot and the electric starter for my generator any help will be appreciater
Should the red light be on when the battery disconnect switch is in store position?
I have had my travel trailer since 2010 and the dealer replaced the unit once 6/17/14.” differential between High pressure and Low pressure line are not correct” ” Diagnosis is A/C compressor worn out”. Replaced A/C unit and sent me home. The unit stopped working again in October 2016 they troubleshot the unit and replaced the antifreeze sensor and sent it me home. Unit still blowing hot air. In May it got warm enough to test the unit so I took it back and they the compressor is worn out again. To me this is not normal. How can I troubleshoot the unit?
engine battery drain problem
We have a question about well water systems. We recently purchased some property and are planning to set it up as our RV home base. We had to have a well drilled for water. We were told the water appears to have sulfur. Does anyone have a recommendation as far as filtration for this situation?
Thanks in advance for any and all suggestions!
Our steps wouldn’t go down but after several tries finally went down. After they went down and it took several tries to retract the and then only retracted about 75%. Is there any way to retract them fully? I’m afraid to put them down again in case they won’t come back up. We traveling and all the service centers I contacted are booked for several days.
If your steps won’t go down properly spray WD-40 or a good oil on the step joints works everytime if the motorhome sits for awhile they rust and need oil sprayed on them.
I installed (2) new 12 V. batteries on our RV and when disconnected from shore power we have no 12V power at all. Batteries are installed in parallel as before and my battery disconnect is in the on possition
Do you have any videos on LED external light conversion for replacement of standard incandescent bulbs with LEDs for park/turn, brake and clearance lights?
If not…could you do one showing how to resolve Hyper Flashing, No Flashing, Loss of Brake Lights while turn signals are on etc. This may involve the installation of resistors and/or LED low draw flashers and when they may be needed and how to tell.
These are problems a lot of people experience and too little accurate information on line.
Thanks!
I am having trouble locating the converter for my rv. the owner’s manual briefly mentions it being under the refrigerator but no luck so far. any help would be greatly appreciated!!
Just new to RVing
And already p robably broke the first rule
Didn’t read manual alll the way
So started using the van this weekend and the water wouldn’t come through after we filled the water by the drivers door, the pump ran but didn’t flow
Went camping anyway because we thought someone would be there to help
Long story short
We have a waterless water heater and the pump runs but water flows all out near this copper connection
Then the new toilet leaked
We stayed camping and heated water
We were able to connect directly but as soon as the handle was turned the water runs out
I can send a picture
So then the other was we couldn’t use to the toilet for bowel movement (sorry so graffic )
How do we repair this so it doesn’t cost arm and leg
Had a licensed plumber look and confirm broken because didn’t winterized properly
So not covered by warranty
And the components aren’t covered by warranty anyhow
Thanks
I have the model numbers for the items
I think my power gear leveling system is in a Zero Mode. All lights are blinking together. I tried cycling the ignition key off and on as to the troubleshooting Information on Power Gear leveling system. Lights stay blinking. I don’t know what to do next. Jerry,
“Types Of RV Toilets: Drawbacks And Advantages” – I wanted to read or see the video of this but my screen had a message asking me if it answered my question. I never got to see the video! And when I try to see any other video I get asked to join. What’s up?
Hello Samuel,
We are sorry to hear that you are not able to view the videos. We have sent you an email with some troubleshooting tips.
Thanks,
Becky
RVRC Video Membership
I’m installing solar panels on my rv and it said to connect charge controller to battery’s I’m ok with that but when I drive the rv the alternator charge the battery’s too? do I disconnect solar when driving or will the charge controller take care of it? don’t want to over charge batt, or back feed controller.
How do I test the gas valve – no propane getting to burner
just plugged in hydro everything is dim lack of power I have 30 amp. 5th wheel plugged site can service 50 checked fuse inverter changed cord stumped in Canada
37c with triple slide. Bedroom slide does not respond when pressing the open close switch. Other slides work fine? Checked fuses, but found non blown. Unable to find the motor and or any breaker panel applicable to this slide. Any ideas would be most helpful.
My fifth wheel has external lights for the canopy and outside speakers, They will not turn off with the switch on the control panel, any ideas?
Where is fuse located and how Labeled? I found fuses by generator but unable to i.d. which one?
If you keep on/off water lines on the heater in the on position will you get warm water while showing? The water connectors are the three located on the water heater. I believe the middle one should be off when using the heater and off when you winterize.
Does the power converter for this model go to a float condition after the battery charges up.
?
My Rv and outlets will not work. I’m thinking it’s the fuse. How do I know which fuse to buy
Hi, Harold. We would be happy to assist you; we just need some more information. What is the year/make/model of your RV?
Had a dead battery. Replaced battery. Now my connect/disconnect battery switch will only stay on when I start the engine. Would it be the switch? Or something else?
Morning, I parked the coach and turned the disconnect switch after parking. This was two days ago. All inside lights worked. Picked up the coach this morning. Checked all of the fuses 3 amp, 5, 15,20,30 to make sure none had blown because my radio has no power. Went and tried to turn on inside lights. Nothing! Double checked all of the fuses. Hit the disconnect both in and out. No outside power, just parked in front of the house. Obviously new rv owner. BTW there is a battery light next to the disconnect switch. In the past, while checking out the coach, that light was lit even after hitting the disconnect. That light is dark. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated
Found out what had happened from above! House batteries were dead! I HAD hit the Disconnect. I have been told to check the Disconnect solenoid…………where is it? LOL
Hi, Jon. To provide more specific troubleshooting information about your battery
situation we need the make, model, and year of your rig. In the mean
time, I’m not sure what type of “battery light” you have in the stepwell
next to your disconnect switch? This could possibly be an indicator
light for the solar panel providing a charge to the batteries? I do
not know of any other light, possibly a photo would help identify
it? As for the dead batteries, you have either a parasitic drain or
bad batteries? A parasitic drain is something that is drawing from
the batteries and even though you have the disconnect off, it might be
wired direct such as the LP leak detector or CO detector? Check out
the parasitic drain video in the electrical section of the site and you
can identify the drain. If you have batteries that are badly
sulfated, they will go dead with nothing on in a few days. This you
will need to have verified by a qualified battery dealer.
I am getting a lot of play in my steering wheel. Any suggestions for tightening it up?
Hi, Allen. To provide more specific troubleshooting information on your steering wheel issue we need the make, model and year of your rig as well as the chassis model and size. Steering wheel play can be several things, but I would start with an alignment which will tell you if the tie rods and bushings are getting sloppy. This will give you a direction for looking at the steering column, axle connections, or suspension.
It appears that the converter/charger is not sending voltage to the batteries when shore power or a generator is connected. I have found and replaced an 8A/250V fuse that was blown. The cover of the unit says American on it and the date of manufacture sticker says 1 Mar 2003. Should I just order a replacement converter/charger?
Before changing out an expensive converter/charger make sure you have verified with a multimeter that the converter is not providing a charge rather than your batteries will not accept or hold a charge? Check out the video in the Electrical Segment here: https://www.rvrepairclub.com/video/rv-battery-maintenance-checking-battery-charge-007937/
I am not familiar with an American brand converter, however without knowing the make, model, and year of your RV it’s difficult to provide more specific troubleshooting information. Since it does have a date of 2003, it’s at least into the second generation of distribution centers? Some models have a single unit distribution center that has the 120-volt circuit breakers and 12-volt fuses with the converter underneath while others have the converter in a separate location to keep the noise and heat down. If your converter is not working, I would recommend looking at Progressive Dynamics models that would match your application and fairly easy to replace. Again, check out the videos on the website where our RVIA Certified Master Technician, Steve Albright changed out the older style converter in a single application.
about winter storage below freezing temps… if I turn off the pump, open all the faucets hot and cold, then drain the water lines from below, at the lowest point will I drain ALL the water from the lines to avoid freezing? I am particularly concerned about the hot water heater tank. Will it drain also? or not? Interested in your advice. ‘Regards, Don
Hi, Don. Not knowing what make, model, and year of RV you have I can not say for certain that all water lines will be drained by just opening the lowest valves as some water lines are hidden and can be deceiving. I would first take the drain plug out of the water heater and let that drain completely. Next, open the drain for the fresh water tank. The best way to ensure you get all water out of the system is to connect an air hose to the city water fill and open the farthest faucet first and all other faucets after that. Don’t forget the toilet and sprayer, shower, and outside shower if applicable.
Some things on the RV run off the chassis battery. (Propane leak detector, etc, some electronics I think. When dry camping, will this eventually drain the battery so I won’t be able to start the engine, out in the boondocks? It has a generator for house batteries
My rig charges the house batteries via (1) Land Line, (2) Engine excess charge after Vehicle battery is charged, and (3) Generator. If I add 2 solar panels to top off charge on my 2 6-volt golf cart batteries connected in series will I be at risk of overcharging the batteries? IF the Solar Panels are connected and wife decides to run the generator to operate AC Appliances at the same time? Other conditions I should avoid?
Hi, Roy. If you install solar panels to the rig you need to add a charge controller to any system that is over 12 volts. This will monitor the battery voltage and prevent overcharging. I would recommend visiting Nature Power Products site to get a better idea of how the solar panels work with your system.
https://naturepowerproducts.com/
System does not fire in propane mode but works on ac/dc attempts to fire then igniter then stops it does not appear to have gas to burner jet how to proceed with trouble shoot?
Should battery disconnect switch be turned off when you’re plugged into electric at a park? Are only turned off when it is in storage and not being used
cant find a wiring diagram for the 3 battey system with rotary switch.
The large slide will not move in or out. There is a humming sound when I push the button
Hi, Terrell. To provide more specific troubleshooting information we need to know the make, model, and year of your RV as well as the type of slide mechanism. If it’s the larger through the rail hydraulic system it could be a binding gear or weak motor. I would suggest checking inside to make sure nothing is blocking the slide and nothing fell on the floor and got wedged underneath? You should have a manual over ride which we featured in the video section. Find the motor hand look for a hex slot that you can put a chuck into and use a portable screw gun to bring the room in and out. With the before listed information we should be able to assist further.
We are new to RVing and we need some advice. I have a 36 ft Jayco Seneca and I am towing a 1976 CJ 5 Jeep. We are planning a cross country trip from Arizona to Florida. The Jeep is a standard shift. Do I need to do anything else besides putting the transmission and four wheel drive in neutral?
Hi, Greg. Check your owner’s manual on towing to make sure that year Jeep model can be towed on all fours for a long period of time. I believe it will be ok, however I do not have tow guides that go back that far. There is more you need to be aware of when towing such as turning the ignition to acc to unlock the wheel if applicable. Check out the Roadmaster site and instructions on the proper tow bar for vehicle and proper procedure in connecting. It’s important to connect the safety chains correctly as well as the electrical cable to keep it from stretching. Another consideration is a supplemental braking system like the Roadmaster Evenbrake. Most states require a supplemental braking system and brake away system at certain weights with some states like New Jersey requiring any towed car to have brakes hooked up. Visit: http://www.roadmasterinc.com for articles about the various brake controllers and towing safely.
We can’t get our 12 volt power to work and battery say they are charged.
can’t get our generator to start.
Our tip out went in fine but we can’t get it back out not even manually
Great question! The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members of our online community. By becoming a member, you will have access to our expert knowledge. With your membership you will also receive discounts on products and hundreds of hours of Premium content.
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Thanks!
My battery disconnect switch says “On” or “Off”…so how does this relate to the “Storage” position? (I live in my RV.)
Thanks!
Hi, Linda. To provide more specific troubleshooting information we need to know the make, model, and year of your RV. Typically the battery disconnect switch is designed to disconnect the house batteries similar to pulling the negative cable off the battery so nothing can drain it when the unit is not in use or in storage. If your disconnect has the “On or Off” switch, it means that pushing it to the “On” position means the batteries are connected to the rig and everything should work. Switching to the “Off” position disconnects the batteries which would be the best for the times your unit is in storage. You can test this by pushing the switch to “Off” and see if the interior lights work.
Do I leave inverter on when connected to 50 amp at campsite or leave it off
Hi, George. With a 50 amp system I assume your inverter is the larger 2000 watt type which has a built in charger for the batteries. If so, you will want to leave it on to charge the batteries as several appliances will operate on the 12-volt system and the batteries need to be recharged. Check your owner’s manual of the inverter, not the rig to make sure this is the system you have.
Reviewing your info had me wondering. I’ve had battery draw issues and have (1 yr ago) replaced my 2YO batteries with AGM. My manual states if rig is stored for 1 month or more, disconnect batteries. Although my rig can be plugged in on shore power (when available) is is not normally stored hooked up. The manual states the charger (while plugged in) charges either high, medium, or constant “Trickle”charge when complete. I’m questioning this. Shouldn’t the batteries use a “Maintainer” to cycle the batteries, in addition to whats onboard? My Inverter is only 1000w, per your article requires 2000w min. to cycle battery. Please advise (email)! Thanks Randy
Hi, Randy. Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club site and the opportunity to assist with your battery storage question. Lead acid batteries require a multi-stage charge every month which starts with a high voltage bulk stage charge that boils the batteries and breaks up sulfation. Then it goes into an equalizing and float stage. Most RV distribution centers have a converter that simply recognizes the state of charge and “dumps” energy to the battery to be stored. This does not condition the battery and will cause sulfation. Many of the larger inverters do have a multi-stage charger and my comment on the 2000 watt was not a requirement as minimal size, just a reference to the typical 2000 watt has this feature. Your 1000 watt may have this feature, however if the manual states “High, medium, low”, it probably does not have the multi-stage, rather just reads the voltage and sends the power it thinks the battery needs? I would check the manual and maybe call the company to see if it has the bulk, equalizing, and float. Going with the AGM will reduce the sulfation as they require less conditioning but still need some. I would suggest getting a Battery Minder which sends high impact waves into the battery to break up sulfation and condition the battery. They have models designed for AGM such as your and it’s an easy plug in. I get mine at Northern Tool as they sell them cheaper than Battery Minders corporate store!
when I stored my rv I put switch in store mode, 3 weeks later I went to start and all batterys where dead including the starting battery, dealer is telling me to keep it plugged in and in use mode on switch. is this common practice and will it damage my batterys keeping the rv plugged in all the time
Battery disconnect does nothing when pressed. No 12 volt power to coach. Installed 2 new deep cycle batteries.
I had the same problem. I replaced the batteries and no response. I push the switch and i hear the relay activate, but no power.
We are fairly new to rv-ing! We do seem to have a draw on the batteries even when plugged in but my main concern is now inside its says internal fault and nothing is working or running
Hi Kandice. Great question! The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members of our online community. By becoming a member, you will have access to our expert’s knowledge in RV Repair. With your membership you will also receive discounts on products and hours of Premium video content.
If you are interested in becoming a member to RV Repair Club, please click on the special offer below:
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Thanks!
I have two battery cut-off switches. One for the Main and one for Aux. When I turn off the Aux, I still have battery operated lights at some locations even though I also cut the main. Is that normal and how can it be changed to completely cut electricity at those locations, or can it?
You probably have the dual switch just inside the entrance door with the Aux switch designed to shut off a drain on the house battery and the main for the chassis battery? If you shut both switches off, there should be no 12-volt operation other than possibly the LP Leak Detector and CO2/Smoke alarm? If you have lights on, they were wired directly to the batteries, bypassing the switch. You can rewire them by tracing the wire to the power source. My guess is there is a terminal switch in the battery compartment for add ons that these are wired to. Another option is to install a spade switch in-line of the negative cable which will shut everything off. You can get these at any auto parts stores.
My coach is only a few months old and the hot water was fine until last trip. I had hot water, albeit slowly, in all sinks but not in shower. Any ideas?
Check to make sure all hot and cold water taps are turned off. Especially the outside shower/sprayer hot and cold shut off valves. (Not just the one on the hand held sprayer but the valves that supply water to the sprayer).
I have a 95watt solar panel that charges the coach batteries (two six volt). I leave the battery disconnect switch on when the coach is in storage and the batteries stay charged. Will this keep them from sulfating?
The 95 watt solar panel will keep the batteries charged or “topped off” during storage, but will not keep them from sulfating if they are lead acid batteries. Lead acid batteries require a multi-stage charge every month which starts with a bulk charge that is high voltage (16 volts sometimes) that boils the acid and breaks up the sulpher. Then it goes into a float and equalizing stage. Simply applying a constant charge or even a trickle charge will not reduce sulfation. Since you have the solar panel, I would suggest contacting Battery Minder to work with their technicians to incorporate the solar panel mode with yours. The Battery Minder sends high impact waves into the battery as needed to condition the battery with no boiling, gassing, or loss of acid. They claim this product will extend the life of your batteries by 200 cycles, that could be 2-3 years for the average RVer! They love to talk to RVers, contact them here:
https://www.batteryminders.com/contact/
Would like to put a front and rear sway bar on the class c Ford E350 V-10 due to the swaying and steering down the hwy is some what challenging to say the least. What manufacture rates high in your experience?
Hello Brian.
Definitely Roadmaster in Vancouver WA! They have been in the business for over three decades and have certified dealers and distributors all over the country. They start by inspecting the chassis first rather than just slapping on an aftermarket system that may not solve your problems. Go to http://www.roadmasterinc.com to find a location near you.
Thanks
RVRC Video Membership
light comes on battery disconnect switch but no power in coach,how do I get a repair manuel for 2001 airstream motorhome
Hi, Ray. Thor Industries is the parent company for Airstream, however they have not manufactured a motorized version for several years. They do have some great documentation available on their website and a great customer service organization. Start by going to this website: https://www.airstream.com/service/manuals/
I doubt the manual will provide much troubleshooting info, however, if you can provide more specifics we might be able to help? Here are some questions:
Most battery disconnect switches do not have lights? Is this a rocker switch that can be pushed up and down and where is it located?
No power to the coach? 120-volt or 12-volt?
Do you have the unit plugged in?
If it’s plugged in, do you have 120-volt power to appliances? I usually check the microwave first!
If the unit is not plugged in, your are trying to use appliances off the 12-volt house batteries and if the disconnect switch is off, nothing will work. If the switch is on and the batteries are dead, again…nothing.
Let us know what you find and we can troubleshoot further.
battery won’t last more than 8 hrs with only fridg running [ 18 ft rv fridg ] is this normal or do I have something drawing power. had fusion before and it would last much longer
Hi, Tom. You could have something else running that will draw the batteries, however I suspect your batteries are not operating at maximum capacity due to sulfation? Lead acid batteries must be charge each month with a multi-stage charge that boils the acid with a high voltage charge during the bulk stage charge to break up the sulphur and then into a float and equalizing stage. Most converters do not have this capability unless you have a very expensive 2000 watt inverter or take the batteries out and use a professional multi-stage charger! Just leaving it plugged in does nothing more than topping them off and letting sulphur collect on the plates and limit the amount of energy storage. A sulfated batter will show a full 12.5 volt charge after charging, but will not last the intended amp hours so your refrigerator which probably only draws a few amps on the LP mode should last for a couple days, only last 8 hours. I would suggest getting the Battery Minder from Northern Tool which will send high impact waves to your battery and break up the sulfation and condition the battery. They claim to extend the battery “cycles” by 200 times which is 2-3 years longer life. but will be able to store more energy and provide longer power when dry camping.
To check for any other drains on the battery, disconnect the refrigerator by pulling the 12-volt fuse and then take a multimeter set to DC voltage, disconnect the negative post of the house battery, place one probe on the terminal, the other on the empty battery post. If you see a reading, you have something that is drawing power. Usually it’s the LP leak detector or CO2.
Issue: Power loss when not plugged into shore power.
My house entry power steps and auto leveling system does not work on the house batteries when unit is not plugged into shore power.. Lights and Winegard satelitte dish function. Low voltage indicator comes on and panel lights flash on the leveler system. Batteries show 12.5 volts on multimeter. Batteries are 3 months old could they be sulfated? I have a 2000 watt inverter that is left on always. Problem started when main disconnect switch and inverter were left on for 5 days with the unit unplugged. Took RV to independent repair shop, they say batteries are fine and they could not find the problem. They wanted to change the leveler function panel. That will not make the power steps work as well. Taking it back to dealer next week. Just curious as to what your thoughts might be. Called Jayco and one tech rep says it is the auto transfer switch (?). Called again trying to get info on where the switch was and the second rep said it cannot be the auto transfer switch and he thinks the batteries were drained over the five day period. However, batteries test out normal. Thank you.
Battery disconnect not working. Everything works with 120 hookup. Switch makes no sound when moving to use or store. Both batteries show 12.4 volts. Was running fresh water from tank to toilet then stopped.fuses and breakers good. Any ideas. Thanks
I have the problem also.also the engine does not charge the house batteries when it is running I am away on vacation so trying to figure out what to do any help ?
I have the same issue. No charge to the house batteries from the alternator. Engine battery charges just fine.
Looking for abs and air conditioner solutions
Dave, battery condition is like black magic to many of us – we can’t see anything moving or loosening and so is difficult to diagnose and treat the real issue. With the chassis batteries in our rig, they have suddenly (over the past 6 months or so) began dying! I can’t seem to keep the3m charged up and so the big diesel engine is just too much for them after about 3 days in storage or parked in the KOA park. Question is this – I think our charger is a higher end one that has bulk charge and float charge cycles for the house batteries. Can I attach some jumper cables from the house batteries (all are 12 volts) to the chassis batteries so that all batteries are tied together and all will be bulk charged and float charged while connected to park shore power? Thanks!
Hi Joe,
The multi-stage charge of your converter would not be good for your engine batteries as they require a constant charge to keep them at 12.6 volts. Your bulk charge could put out as much as 16 volts! Since you have access to 120-volt power, I would recommend getting a Battery Minder just for your engine batteries and leaving that plugged in? You can get them at http://www.northerntool.com
Thanks,
David
RV Repair Club Video Membership
Just joined and was looking for a video on replacing RV toilet and can’t seem to find one. Should be a simple video, am I doing something wrong?
Over the past year we have been shooting content almost every month trying to get a wide variety of topics and cover the most frequently asked questions. Batteries, refrigerators, 120-volt electric, and general maintenance were the hot topics so they got priority. We do not have an actual video on the site of removing and replacing a toilet, however there is one in the Black & Gray Water Class. It’s a fairly easy procedure depending on the brand and model you have. Typically there is a cover flange around the base of the unit that is held together with a couple of screws. Remove that and you should see 4 nuts on the base that hold it in place. If you can provide the make, model, and year of the toilet I can get you a diagram.
My rv has two disconnect switchs and a disconnect solenoid. Would both switchs be hooked to the same solenoid? Have another solenoid in the battery compartment??
Seem to have issues with engine battery. Replaced battery and put battery tender on for trickle charge. I left disconnect switches on. Should I flip disconnect switches in off position? Also, should I leave rv plugged in? I’m not sure what I did wrong.