The formation of condensation can occur when camping in cold temperatures or in areas where there is a high level of humidity in the air. These water droplets will form on a variety of surfaces inside the RV, including the windows, walls, and countertops. It is important to keep RV condensation under control; otherwise your RV may be at risk of developing a mold problem. In addition to mold growth and its health issues, a buildup of condensation can also cause wood rot and corrosion. All of these can affect the overall look, performance, and value of your RV.
There are many tips we have learned from seasoned RVers when it comes to the formation of condensation. Here are some of the ones we have discovered work best:
Eliminate the RV Condensation Source
There are many different moisture sources inside your RV that you can control, which will help reduce the formation of RV condensation. For example, heating up food releases water vapors into the air and increases humidity levels. When cooking, make sure to cover all pots and pans to reduce water vapors escaping. Also, hang wet clothes outside to dry instead of inside. This way, the water vapors from the fabric do not get caught inside your RV.Increasing Inside Temperature
The formation of RV condensation increases at a lower temperature. If possible, run the thermostat a little warmer in your RV. This will help reduce the levels of condensation inside the unit. A programmable RV digital thermostat can assist with climate control.Installing Window Insulation
Do-it-yourself window insulator kits are available at home improvement and RV supply stores. Once installed, there will be a barrier between the window and the humid air, reducing the formation of condensation.Using a Dehumidifier
Regularly using a dehumidifier inside your RV unit will help rapidly reduce the levels of humidity without increasing the temperature. There are small, compact dehumidifiers that are designed specifically for camping.Ventilating the Unit
Properly ventilate your RV. This ensures that water vapors in the bathroom after showering and in the kitchen when cooking get released outside. Some RV goers suggest cracking a window for a few minutes to help even out the moisture content in the air inside the unit.Wiping Surfaces
When you see RV condensation starting to form on windows and countertops, take the time to wipe it away immediately.Preventing Mold Growth
To prevent mold from growing inside your RV, it’s best to keep the humidity levels between 30 and 50 percent. Humidity meters, also known as a hygrometer, are available to purchase and install inside your RV to help keep track of moisture levels in the air. Some dehumidifiers are equipped with meters to help monitor humidity levels.By using any of the above listed tips, or all of them combined together, you will be able to keep RV condensation formation down to a minimum and reduce your chances of having mold grow and causing damage to your unit. No condensation or mold will increase the amount of fun you have on the road.
Related links:
What To Do About A/C Condensation
Tips for RV Air Conditioner Maintenance
6 Tips for Hot Weather RVing
Do I have an electric water heater
Hello Christy,
Great question! The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members of our online community. By becoming a member, you will have access to our expert’s knowledge. With your membership you will also receive discounts on products and hours of Premium video content.
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Thanks!
We found dri rot, what do you do?
Hi Peggy. It depends on where the damage is and what you need to do to it. Floors can be ripped out and rebuilt, walls can have panels removed and re installed and then roofs will have to have the rubber and components removed before replacing. We have some videos showing water damage repairs that might give you a better idea on what is needed to be done.
Here are the links:
https://www.rvrepairclub.com/product/water-damaged-roof-video-download/
https://www.rvrepairclub.com/video/repair-camper-floor-023868/
Dan
RV Repair Club
Any suggestions for eliminating the condensation on the fresh water tank after I fill it with COLD well water ? I first noticed the surrounding rug was wet. Now the plywood flooring is getting wet . I plan on using roofing paper to protect the wood and then encasing the tank in black rubber insulation. I’m sure this problem in wide spread in all RVs.
Hello Jack,
This is for members to our online community. We do have a $3.00 USD annual entrance offer if you are interested? This would include access to expert advice (like this), plus discounts, hours of Premium videos, etc. Below is the link to join if you are interested: https://go.rvrepairclub.com/C30541
Sincerely,
Sarah
RV Repair Club Video Membership
THE BEST SMALL DEHUMIDIFIER TO USE IN A 20 FOOT MOTORHOME WITH TWO PEOPLE LIVING INSIDE IN THE U.K.
Trying to find the corner peaces on the motor home located on the slide outs. Tried to attach a picture but there’s no spot to add a picture of what I’m talking about. They’re like plastic caps on the corner of the slide out
Hi Faith. Great question! The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members of our online community. I would be happy to send your question off to the experts. To get started, please send the email associated with your paid membership account. Thanks!
I have a 33 ft class A motor home i recently purchased with 37k miles, as for condensation I use moisture collectors and so far they seem take in the moisture and keeps a dry coolness.
We are full timers living in a motor home. Currently in Maine for the winter, our windscreen is the biggest problem and in temps below freezing has ice and condensation. Running a fan directly onto the windscreen and leaving a gap under the blind for air to circulate has cut down 99% of that problem.
We’re in South Houston 19 miles from Galveston, humidity and heat are nasty 6-8 months of the year. We’ve been running a GE dehumidifier at 50% RH and installed wireless hygrometers to track the moisture level. The enclosed storage facility helps some with exposure, and this system seems to work.
Anyone know much about a 1978 Red Dale motor home
Hi Mary. Did you have any specific questions for our expert? I would be happy to send any questions you have.
Thanks
Jean
RV Repair Club Video Membership
Leaving rig for the first time in Florida for the summer. Any tips on “summerizing” to prevent mold, mildew and sun damage.
Hello. The best thing to do is apply a good UV protectant and keep it waxed. There are many kinds out there but ProtectAll makes a really good one. I will share a link below with more information on that. Really there isn’t much else to do. If it is kept in a shaded area it is good to clean the exterior and the roof at least once a month to keep the mildew off. Sunny areas need waxed often. This is really the most important thing to do besides checking the sealant often. Keeping an eye on the side and roof sealants throughout the season is the best maintenance for the RV. Window shades and insulated vent inserts help the inside stay more comfortable as well.
https://www.protectall.com/
Dan
RV Repair Club
Hello Mary Lou,
Thank you for contacting us.
The best thing to do is apply a good UV protectant and keep it waxed. There are many kinds out there but ProtectAll makes a really good one. I will share a link below with more information on that. Really there isn’t much else to do. If it is kept is a shaded area it is good to clean the exterior and the roof at least once a month to keep the mildew off. Sunny areas need waxed often. This is really the most important thing to do besides checking the sealant often. Keeping an eye on the side and roof sealants throughout the season is the best maintenance for the RV. Window shades and insulated vent inserts help the inside stay more comfortable as well.
https://www.protectall.com/
If you have any other concerns, please contact us at 1-855-706-3536, or chat with us on our site.
We greatly appreciate your business!
Sincerely,
Lindsay
RV Repair Club Video Membership
HOW EAST IS IT TO REPLACE A CARGO/BASEMENT DOOR?
Hi Edward,
Here is what our expert had to say:
These doors are actually fairly easy to replace. There are usually just a few screws in the framing of the door on the inside holding it in place. There should also be sealant around the outside edge of the door frame as well. Score this sealant with a sharp blade and remove the screws. The door should be able to pull away from the wall. Any locks or handles should be able to come out as well to move to the new door. Before installing the new door make sure to clean off any excess sealant left from the old door on the wall and apply new sealant once in place. Here are some links to storage doors to help you find what you might need:https://www.lci1.com/access-and-baggage-doors
https://www.recpro.com/rv-compartment-doors/
Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
we have a 2006 40′ Monaco, Diplomat diesel pusher fitted with a humidity controlled FanTastic fan system fitted in the roof of the living/kitchen area. This system has stopped working – can anyone tell me where the fuse is located for this or any other info to start trouble shooting the unit. Many thanks Cliff Eagar, Vancouver, Canada
Hi Cliff. A lot of the Fantastic Fans will have the fuse near the switch, usually a cylinder fuse that twists and pulls down. If you don’t see the fuse from the inside then most likely there isn’t an inline fuse and the main fuse at the power center is the protection for the fan. It is best to remove the inside cover and check the wires to make sure there is voltage to them. There could also be a loose connection. I have seen a few versions where it is best to gain access to the wires from the top with the lid open, at least ones with rain sensors so you might want to check there as well. Usually though if it has a fuse they are visible.
Dan
RV Repair Club
We have fit a piece of plexiglass into one of our fixed windows near the dinette to help with heat loss. Condensation still forms on the original window. We have weather stripping to put around the plexiglass. I’m concerned this will just trap what moisture is there and it will not be rid of the condensation not to mention leave an ugly sticky residue. Any advise would be appreciated.
Hello Candance,
Thank you for contacting us.
Unless it is vacuum sealed it will always allow condensation. Just sealing it up really well can prevent most of it from happening but there will already be moisture in the air when it is sealed and condensation will form. The only way to get rid of most of it is to seal the window under extremely dry conditions to help prevent it from building up in the future. Doing anything like this risks the build up of condensation as you don’t get good air flow through it. Leaving vent holes is really the only thing that can help but you will get more heat loss.
If you have any other concerns, please contact us at 1-855-706-3536, or chat with us on our site.
We greatly appreciate your business!
Sincerely,
Lindsay
RV Repair Club Video Membership
We seem to have a condensation issue between our window pains. A white film is between the pain can this be fixed or do we need new windows. Is there a way to clean this film it appears to be between the pains. This is a 4 season Adenturere Motor Home so we are assuming that are double pained.. We have cleaned inside and out but film is still there or.Is this a gas that has escaped and we require new windows. My husband says we will need new but I wanted to ask . We live in Ontario Canada where winters are very cold. The windows were fine last summer but this year we have the 2 large windows with this problem It was stored outside all winter with no cover. One on each side of the Motor Home. These windows are KTC tempered glass Kihro Can someone please advise if they are double pained and if they can be fixed how and what cleaner removes the white film Thank you so much
Hello Gerald,
Thank you for contacting us, depending on the issue it will depend on if you will have to replace. But there are some options. Type into google:
KTC tempered glass Kihro Can foggy
And you will see what can be done.
If you have any other concerns, please contact us at 1-855-706-3536, or chat with us on our site.
We greatly appreciate your business!
Sincerely,
Joan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
There is mould in the walls. How dangerous is this to health? We are seniors.
Hello John,
Thank you for contacting us. Great question! The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members of our online community. By becoming a member, you will have access to our expert’s knowledge in RV Repair. With your membership you will also receive discounts on products and hours of Premium video content.
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Joan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
My friend and I are working on an RV project and she was gifted her father’s RV after he passed. We’re doing a complete and total remodel when we found a lot of mold. What’s the best way to get rid of it?
When many motorhomes and travel trailers are equipped with 30 amp systems, why do Coleman AC units need nearly all 30amps to start the AC units? Until recently they added the Power Saver Series, but even when I had my brand new 17 foot Viking within the first 6 months the AC unit was using that much power to the point it was replaced under warranty. It wouldn’t start with a 3750 watt 30 amp Westinghouse generator.
We live in VA where it is VERY humid during the summer. My question is for the weeks when we are not using the RV. Is it best to run the Air conditioner to keep it cool when not using it to keep the night and day temperatures from fluctuating so drastically causing condensation or should we be turning everything off and letting it get extremely hot inside and not worry about the cooler nights?
Dear Kathryn,
Thank you for your patience. In response to your question-
It is really up to you. I prefer not to operate things the like the AC while you are away for longs periods of times. If there is an issue with the system at some point it is better to be there then let it go for days. It technically would be better for the inside to have the AC running but again I don’t recommend letting it run for a long time while away. There are things that need to be inspected while operating the AC. The first thing would be the filter, it is gets clogged while you are away it could cause restricted air flow on the system and could freeze the evaporator and cause it to shut down. There is also the issue of the condensation drip holes getting clogged on the AC at the roof. If these get clogged with debris and the condensation builds up it will eventually poor over the lip of the evaporator and poor into the RV by the return air. I have seen this happen many times so you always want to be careful when not around. If you have the RV well insulated you don’t have to worry about the temperature fluctuations as much. You can always put in the Damp-Rid moisture absorber containers while you are away. These really help with the condensation build up while in storage. If you want better air flow, you can get the secondary covers for your roof vents and let you 12v exhaust fan run while you are gone. This promotes good air flow and removes the heat. Max Air Covers are nice coming vent covers, they allow you to have the vents open during rain and travel. These are great options if you are able to leave the exhaust fans running. Typically you don’t have to worry about so many things like the AC and it uses a low 12v fan so it’s power consumption is a lot less. I hope this helps!
We’d love to have you be a part of our community. We are convinced you will enjoy the benefits of becoming a member and having access to the best instructional how to videos and professional tips. We would like to offer you a special promotion for your first-year membership.
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Sincerely,
Dan
RV Repair Club Technical Expert
Living in my trailer up north through the winter months. When the temps fall below freezing I notice that behind my sofa on one side and my love seat on the other behind them there’s moisture even frozen on the walls and floor. The units are pushed up tight to the walls so I’m assuming there is no air circulating through there. Can I insulate the walls some how?
Hi! We had a strong windstorm a month or so ago, and since then, I’ve been experiencing leaks (pretty heavy) coming in under my slide-out dinette. Any ideas on how to get that fixed? I can’t see any holes from the outside by the dinette. 2000 Jayco Eagle 12 LSO
Are there concerns regarding condensation when RV is stored in a covered shed in a northern climate?
I was wondering why my Jayco 30Z does not have Roof Vents except for in the bathroom?None in living room, None in bedroom,None in bunk area….. any info would be appreciated thank you 🏁😎
Hi Steve,
A lot of units only put a roof vent in the bathroom to allow ventilation during showers to keep the humidity down. There won’t be room in the bedroom with the AC there and with the main room they might have not been able to put one there depending on space and structure. I have seen some models with 2 vents in the main room and others with none. It just depends on what they want to do. There is no good reason other than the manufacture didn’t want to put more in or they weren’t able to. You could always get a roof structure lay out from Jayco and see if a vent could be installed. It is possible they didn’t put one in if you have ducted air conditioning, the duct work would travel through the ceiling and there may not be room for a vent.
I hope this was helpful!
Dan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
Are there any concerns about winter storage and condensation.
Mine is stored in new Smyrna Beach fl from May thru October with the cover on top no electricity stored in a camp site any recommendations for us . Thank you.
Hello Kimberly,
I would just make sure everything is buttoned up tight so no critters can get in. Check under the unit and make sure it is well sealed. I do recommend covering the wheels as well to prevent UV damage while sitting in one spot as well. If you are able to, I would remove the batteries and charge them once a month to ensure they are good the next season. Some people get solar panels to help keep their batteries charged while in storage and that is always helpful. Other than that, covering it is a great way to store and just make sure all food is taken out and the unit is well sealed. You also want to make sure the fridge doors are open or ventilated, this helps prevent mold and mildew building up inside. An old school trick is rolling up pages of newspaper and stuffing it in your fridge and freezer, this helps absorb any moisture inside. Being stored that long, I would make sure to check the tire pressure before moving once out of storage. Tires can loose a little pressure over time and you don’t want to roll away with low tires.
I hope this was helpful!
Dan
RV Repair Club Video Membership
Should I keep my r v plugged into house current over the winter?
I flushed out my black water tank, some of the black water went on to the floor and in to the heater vent, now when I turn on the heater I get a real bad Oder coming from the vent. I have tried every thing to get rid of it. Wood it hurt to pour diluted bleach water or vinegar water down the vent to kill any thing that may be left in there, bad smell
Need help with landing gear stuck right now
We recently had left our kitchen faucet on causing most of the floor to get wet 2 days ago (Memorial Day). We cleaned up the water on the floor within about 4-6 hours of it happening. Now I’m doing my best to get as much moisture out as possible. The problem is its been raining off & on. And we live 20 min away from our camper. I did stsy in our camper on Mon night & kept the windows & all the doors open. On Tues I used a BIG fan in our camper thru the day, but had to leave & close it up tight for the night. I haven’t been back to our camper since late last night. Though I used a generator & our fan should have been running from Tues (6:30 pm- 6:30ish am w/ 3/4 of a tank of gas. Any suggestions on whether to keeping a window cracked or keeping it sealed? We’re supposed to get a thunderstorm tomorrow (Thurs). I’ll be able to have a full size dehumidifier in it by Friday morning.
Hi, I’m going to repair some rot in the walls of my unit requiring removal of some cabinets. I’m not able to see how they are secured to the wall. Any suggestions on removal techniques? Also, is there a source for wire diagrams for this unit? The squirrels got in and chewed through the running lights wiring in the floor and I would like to shorten the journey to locating the wire pathway for replacement. Thank you.
We had 6 tubs of Damp Rid inside our closed and covered RV out in the Jacksonville Florida yard …. a month later, all 6 had water floating on top, and the white beads have become a solid mass. I’ ve poured off the inch of water and put the tubs back in their spots but it seems like they should have lasted for months, and absorbed any moisture that may have gotten inside. There are no bad odors, or any signs of moisture/rain leakage. The camper is brand new and sitting in storage until our upcoming periods of use. What can we do to insure that mold will not become a problem over the upcoming summer months when we’re not here to keep an eye on it, or to change chemicals ???
I keep finding a layer of water on my rear kitchen counter top and there are no leaks from windows or roof. Very carefully inspected. But at this last rain I opened the 2 windows there a little but to let air out and turned on a fan and placed a damprid unit right ther on the countertop and a towel underneath. And I still end up with a wet towel. And when I say I have inspected this thing I mean thoroughly and there are no leaks from windows, or roof in overhead cabinets. What do you think?
We store our Coachman trailer for the winter inside a new indoor storage center for about 6 months each year
It is 100% dry storage, non heated.
Every time we get our camper out there is mold all over the cabinets, some on the windows some on the stove top some everywhere. It has done this since it was brand new four years ago.
It has no water in it, it has no water anywhere near it.
No one can seem to help with this, we do not have it plugged in, no heat is on, where does this come from???
I use “DampTraps” available for a buck or two at most dollar stores. They are very useful in the outside storage bins.
We have lived in our rv for one year and seven months. We bought the rv new. I noted that there was condensation early on and got a small dehumidifier to help. We also vent when done with showers, use the stove fan, and open everything up as much as weather permits. This weekend I became tired of the constant wetness behind our “couch”. The walls are always wet despite efforts to keep them dry. I decided that because I couldn’t get behind the couch that I would remove it, clean behind it and get another seating arrangement that would allow air behind and around it. After removal, I took pictures. I pulled up the carpeting and there is black mold all over the subflooring plywood. I am sure it is inside the walls as well. I am unhappy with this situation. My spouse has COPD, which makes the mold a dangerous health issue for him. I do not know what to do about this event. I am also sure that there is mold under the table area. Why are these rv’s designed so that people cannot keep air circulating to prevent mold? Warranty was only for one year; Now what?
Got home from a trip and one of the scissor stabilizers in the front fell off…screws and all. The belly in the front needs to replaced so I can remount the stabilizer. Need some advice on how to proceed.
We are camping in the mountains for the winter. Experiencing condensation on the interior of the front cap where the head of the bed is located. How can I stop this?
Good morning RVR,
Do I need to remove al the old sealants from my roof before resealing or just clean it first and then reseal?
Thanks,
Leo
Hello Leo,
It all depends on the condition of the existing sealant. If it’s brittle with cracks and separation in several areas, I would use a heat gun and remove it. Also, if you have a leak and can not seem to find it, remove it and start over. This is a large project, so most owners just want to do a quick “over-seal” which will be a problem if you have some of the major issues. Clean the sealant thoroughly with Dawn (Blue) dishsoap or denatured alcohol if it’s really bad. Then inspect the sealant to determine the level of deterioration. If it is minor, make sure you use a sealant that is compatible with what is on
your rig! Silicone is not good for everything and there are dozens of types of silicone, just walk through a home improvement store and see the choices! Find out what type of roof material you have and that should tell you the correct sealant. Check with Dicor and even EternaBond for the best sealant for your application.
Hope this helps!
David RVRC Video Membership
The tent end has pulled out of top of frame on our 2009 Dutchman Kodiak 214. I am wanting to find out how to fix it
I had a roof leak over the winter. The trailer stays at our campground year round while the season is fron April to Oct. The laek has been repaired for weeks. Is there anyway to wnow if everything is dry. Everything looks dry and their is no odor. We have to wait til the ened of the seasons for repairs to be done.
What’s your professional opinion on using a protective cover on my 5th whl when in storage.I have had floor rot issues and thinking this might go a long ways to preventing this. Our area where we live i on the sunshine coast of British Columbia which has lots of rain fall. Is there any brands that you would recommend? Costco is offering a brand named Classic Accessories Sky Shield 5th RV cover, any thoughts on that one? Thank you for any inf you might have.
I store my 26 ft koala ulyr
I keep my AC on and I have 0 to 20 humidity. I’m in West Palm Beach, Fl. November to April and now I in North Carolina and have 0 humidity. I keep my AC at 74 in the daytime and 64 at night. Is that good to have 0 humidity?
can I disconnect the slide to pull it out from trailer to replace the floor at my home or would this be to big a job?
We are not new to the RV life but we always seem to have same problems with moisture and how to control it. This year we are going to try dehumidifiers and keeping your cabinet doors open when in storage. Having a fan running in side and a small space heater will keep the tempture and moisture under control.
Why not just buy and install a humidity controlled fan , saw them on one of the THOW shows .
Good info for sure.
is it wise to cover this camper in the summer months storage in central Florida
For the past few years I have been using a fan plugged into a good quality timer that runs for about one half hour every two or three hours. This seems to work quite well. The fifth wheel I have now has a Fantastic Fan installed in the kitchen area that cuts in when the temperature goes over 70 degrees and closes automatically if it should rain, this also appears to work for me.
I would like to find complete shop manuals and schematics.
Wall repairs around slide outs
We just bought this hybrid which was a where is as is.. we were aware of the leak by the door which is an easy fix for us but today we discovered our canvas is leaking at one end of the bunk? Seems like it’s seeping through the seams.. So we just use sealer or waterproof it too? Do we do the inside and outside our just the outside. These pop up ends are new to us and not too sure on how to deal with it as we don’t want to ruin it any further. The canvas is covered with mildew which I’ve tried to remove with water and vinegar and also oxiclean but was not successful with neither. Any help there?
pop up leaking. Any advice would be greatly appreciated
Please please help us we dumped all our money and life savingings we have into this trailer 2012 voltage toy huler and we need to know why it’s doing this we have a year left on warranty but they are no longer making our trsiler:( we have major condensation in our bedroom slide our main slide doors and back door included we have pics also…it’s so bad our clothes get wet in closet and we are not sure what to do please if there was any advise you would give someone please help us we have nothing left:( and bought this to create memories with our kids and now there’s mold in it:(
My ac unit drips condensation at the unit
just purchased,ceiling has rot and blistering in some areas due to prior leak,what is the best way to repair these areas?
You will need to start by pulling off the ceiling material whether it’s fabric, padded vinyl, or paneling. Fabric and padded vinyl will also have a luaun panel underneath. Look to see what type of damage and rot there is in the wood and insulation. Start with just the area the is blistered so if it’s not to extensive, you can replace the rotten material and possibly piece a new panel and material in that area. You will want to replace the panel or material across the entire coach rather than just a square patch which would look bad. We have done this several times by loosening the overhead cabinets to tuck in underneath, replaced a section about 3’ wide side to side, and attached a molding to the seams. In the case of paneling, you can just glue a seam tape, with the other material we used wood strips stained to match the cabinets and added more to the ceiling at 3’ intervals to make it look decorative and not a single section replaced. Turned out nice.
I have found moisture in the storage bins underneath the dinette..its on the top inside the bin..is it common for these to sweat? I also live in South FL..any ideas as to why this is happening?
Hi, Richard. This is a fairly common issue with RVs that do not have good air circulation like your home would have. Sometimes you need to open doors or even drawers slightly to get the moist air to move out or circulate. Another option many RVers do is to use DampRid.
White fluffy mold growing up wall?
Hi, Mary. The first thing you need to do is identify if the white substance is actually white mold or efflorescence which forms on more hard surfaces. Spray water on the substance, if it disappears, it’s not white mold. There are several products on the market to treat and remove mold, my favorite is simple bleach. Take 1/4 cup bleach in 1 gallon of water and treat the area with the mold and then put DampRid in your rig to reduce condensation that helps cultivate mold.
How do you replace a warped wall panel?
Hi Nancy. Thank you for visiting the RV Repair Club site and the opportunity to assist with your warped wall issue. To provide more specific information we need to know the make, model, and year of your RV as well as the location of the damage. It’s more than likely a water damage issue which could be inside or out? Most warped walls are caused by water penetrating into the wall from a leaking roof to sidewall joint or undercarriage and the water saturates the foam and luaun backing and swells. With a little more info we should be able to provide more troubleshooting tips?
We are brand new to RVing. My 5th wheel has 3 slides. The bedroom slide has 3 rollers, the kitchen slide has 4 rollers, but the largest living room slide only has 2 rollers and after only a few uses the center of this large slide is damaging the floor. The underside luaun material is being peeled back exposing the block insulation. How many rollers should this slide have and is this something I can fix myself?
Hi, Ken. Thank you for visiting the RV Repair Club site and the opportunity to assist with your slide room issue. To provide more specific information on the number of rollers the room should have, we need to know the make, model, and year of your RV. There are three major manufacturers of the larger mechanism, Lippert Components Inc, Power Gear which is now owned by LCI, and HWH. If the floor is getting torn up, it’s more likely the pad the room slides on is the problem? Most rooms have rollers at the sidewall and some type of plastic strip or pad out on the end of the room that slides in and out. Run your room 1/2 way in/out, get a good light and place it on the floor, put a piece of wood on the floor and use a pry bar to lift the room and look underneath. I believe you’ll see a very worn runner?
thank you for your response. My unit info is above. I will try your method tomorrow. All of my research indicates that there had to be something in the middle of the slide other than another roller ( there was no evidence of one ever being installed – I can see the entire area from under the slide.). I will jack up the leading edge from inside and have a look. What is the part called that I may need.
thx again
Sorry for the delay in my response, however I have had no luck getting any information from Open Range, aka Highland Ridge RV as of March 2014, aka Jayco who was recently purchased by Thor Industries! I did stop by the Open Range display at the RVIA National Trade Show in Louisville KY last week to look at what a typical 29’ unit had for slide mechanism and did not see anything in the center underneath from the inside. You can’t really see much from the outside as the weatherstrip flap covers up most of it. And of course there were only “sales representatives” there and nobody with any technical or engineering knowledge. I did find an Open Range owner’s forum that might be of assistance. You could post your question here at: http://www.openrangeowners.com In the mean time, what is actually happening as you bring the slide in and out? If you believe there is something missing in the middle, is it scraping the floor or some other type of damage?
We have a leak in the roof in the bedroom. It run down the side of a cabinet acne on the mattress. It also in the ceiling of the bedroom area not sure how much of ceiling is involved, how hard and how is to repair or replace part or all of bedroom ceiling. We are going to have roof repaired first. Thanks , my husband and I think we can do it, we also have some good friends that will help.
This is our first week in this motor home and had a question about the air conditioners. When we run the front one during the day the humidity stays around 50% but when we turn it off and turn on the back one the humidity goes up to 80% all night long. We don’t know how old either air conditioners are. Do you have any suggestions. Thanks, Gordon
Hi Gordon. Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club site and the opportunity to assist with your AC Humidity issue. To provide more specific troubleshooting information we need to know the make, model, and year of your rig and the type of AC unit would be beneficial as well. What typically happens in a two AC system is the front AC is larger and has a better cold air return design which circulates the air and the evaporator dryer removes the moisture. The bedroom AC is often times just a direct vent like a window AC in a house and dumps moist air in. If your system is ducted, I suggest running the front AC at night and shutting all the vents in the front and let the cool, conditioned air flow to the bedroom which is quieter as well.
leaking inside rv from ac unit
Hi Gordon. Thank you for visiting the RV Repair Club site and the opportunity to assist with your AC leak issue. To provide more specific troubleshooting information we need to know the make, model, and year of your rig as some have traditional roof AC units, others have roof AC units that are ducted in the roof to vents, and others have basement mounted AC units with ductwork up to the roof to vents. If your rig is actually leaking water from the roof AC into the rig it could be you have not checked the torque of the tension mounting bolts. There are four bolts that need to be tightened periodically according to the type of AC unit you have. Check out the videos for the proper procedure.
We have been working on renovating our 35″ dutchman RV for 3 years. We thought the dampness in the ceiling and rot in the walls was due to leaks so we have worked on addressing all the roof leaks, coated, replaced or added butyl tape etc. However the ceiling is still damp along one half, closest to the door. We doubted this could be a leak, because that section is running up hill a bit. Could it be ceiling condensation since the rv has been closed up with no ventilation for so long? I was in the process of replacing the ceiling when I found part of it was damp so I stopped. If it is condensation what can be done to address it. If it is a leak, I am not sure what else to do. Thanks.
Hi, Andy. Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club site and the opportunity to assist with your ceiling issue. I doubt it’s condensation as that might cause some staining of the ceiling material, but not as much damage as you have indicated. You could try cracking a vent slightly and putting in some DampRid but I think it’s probably a leak? Moisture leaks are what we call “gremlins” in the RV industry. They are deceiving as the point of entry may be a long way from the point of departure or damage! For example, moisture leaks in the front cap may travel all the way to the bedroom through the hollow frame rails of the upper sidewall and come out the bedroom. Resealing the entire bedroom area does not stop the leak just creates a lot of extra work and more frustration! I believe it’s well worth the money to find a repair center that uses Seal Tek a pressurizing method of finding leaks. This device sits inside the unit with a hose that is connected to a roof vent and draws air inside the RV pressurizing it. A technician sprays a soap and water solution outside and it’s the absolute best method for finding a leak! Yours could be the front cap, AC gasket not tight, roof vent, dozens of things and maybe a combination of things?
Hi. We bought a 1996 5th wheel for $4000 and the previous owner said he resealed it and it had no leaks. After a bad rain storm, the rv leaked and we found out it has rotten wood, mold and alot of water damage. We have only had it for almost 2 months and we never got it inspected. We don’t know much about rv’s either. We aren’t sure if we can get our money back at this point and the rv is not liveable in this condition. We need a place to stay big time and this was our only means. Can you tell me how much it might cost to replace the roof, floor and some walls? The water is everywhere it’s not good. I feel duped by these people. Would they not have seen the mold or water damage if they resealed it? Thanks!
Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club site. Without being able to inspect your rig to see how extensive the damage is and what needs to be replaced, it’s impossible to provide an estimate for repairs. However, just replacing a roof could exceed the cost you paid for the entire rig! I can’t vouch for the previous owner’s integrity, however if the damage is as extensive as you indicate I don’t see how they would not know it leaked. Plus you don’t reseal a rig if it’s not leaking in the first place? You might not have to replace all the wet and moldy areas as there are several products on the market that will help including bleach. I would suggest checking into your rights as a buyer to get my money back as it sounds like the repairs needed are far more than the rig is worth! (ZD: 3565)
Renovating my RV, what insulation is best, fiberglass, styrofoam, or sprayfoam??
Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club site. In my opinion, 2 pound block foam is the best as it provides insulation and also structural integrity to the panel. Make sure you use an adhesive that will not “melt” or eat away the foam. Test it on a scrap piece and let it sit for a couple days. (ZD: 2999)
We have a 29ft travel trailer and some how water got underneath our floor and rotted out the underlayment. Is this a fix we can do ourselves or would it be best to take somewhere to have it fixed? Who would fix something like this a RV dealer or Bodyshop?
Hi Cindi. Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club site. The underlayment of your unit is more than likely 1/2” plywood. Most floors are made of a thin luaun material on the bottom, block foam or loose fill insulation filled in between either metal or wood framework, and 1/2” upper material and all sandwiched together with adhesive by either pinch roller or vacubond. It’s not an extremely technical repair, just labor intensive as you might have to remove lower cabinetry and furniture. I’d start by tearing back the carpeting or vinyl and seeing how extensive the damage is. You might be able to get by with just a sectional repair? Otherwise I would take it to an RV dealer or RV Service Center as they would be familiar with the construction and have access to the correct materials and adhesive.
We have been RVing for about 10 years now. We were large vessel power boarded for 25 years prior to that. We used to live in Chicago but moved to South Florida 5 years ago. We put 2 five gallon buckets, with vented lids, filled about half full with regular charcoal. One in the front of the coach (36′ class A) and one in the back. I change the charcoal every 4 to 6 weeks. I also run an Evadry Petite dehumidifier on the galley counter and a small electric fan on the floor of the bedroom pointed forward town the hallway. The Evadry pulls about 2 pints of water per week here in South Florida and the charcoal will get mushy if you don’t change ut often enough. In all the years of boating and RVing I have never had sn issue but have had neighbors in the storage lots that have.
I would like to see a video on how to replace carpet in my RV and replace it with wood or laminate plank flooring. My RV has slide outs
Hi Gary. Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club site and the suggestion for video content. This has become a popular topic and has been added to the production schedule for future shoots. It’s a good topic as most people do not realize the issues with wood, tile, and laminate planking floors in an RV. As you drive down the road, the chassis will twist with road surface fluctuations as well as vibration. This will cause stress to the floor of the unit and ultimately the new flooring and buckle or even pop most bargain brand floors. Then add the temperature changes as the unit sits without climate control and the expansion and contraction creates another disaster! The best flooring is something that creates a “floating” floor when applied and created out of better base materials that won’t expand and contract as much as $0.49 cent per square foot bargain brands. Thanks again for the input.
Washing machine and dryer . Single unit or stackable separate ?
Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club site. This has been a topic for argument since the first units became available in the late 1980’s! The earlier models that were single units vented inside the coach and it took for ever to dry cloths and the inside of the RV became a sauna! Today’s single units are vent outside so the moist air leave the rig and they do dry faster, however I find they still take longer than a conventional dryer and are much smaller. Their advantage is size, it only takes up half the storage space so you still get a shirt closet. The stackable seem to be more residential functioning, but take up more room.
Our friends have the single unit. They hang everything after washing because the clothes get too wrinkled. We have separates and they function like home. You just need to dry out the door of the front load washer or you will get mold just like at home.
I would not own the single unit. Losing the space is worth it so I can do other things while I do laundry and I know my machine.
I live in Wisconsin and the trailer gets stored for about 7 months. My ceiling vent is covered with a max air, so when open things will stay dry. Should I leave this open all winter to keep some air movement in the trailer?
Hi, John. Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club site. I know dozens of people that leave the vent open a couple of inches in the winter, dozens that leave them open 1/2 way, and dozens more that keep them shut so there isn’t any set answer to this question. We’ve always left ours shut because we did not have a Max Air cover but we did put a few Damp Rid containers inside and had to issues with moisture. Keep in mind the system has vents to the back of the cover to you can go down the road and not get rain or wind into the vent as well as reduce rain if camped. However, during storage, you could get a hard wind (especially in WI) from the back that could blow snow in through the vents into your open roof vent? Hope this helps.
under metal back wall the wood is rotten do you remove metal replace wood
Hi, John. Thank you for visiting the RV Repair Club site and the opportunity to assist with your rotten wood issue. Yes, I would remove the metal and replace the wood. I would also find where the unit is leaking because it will just do it again.
Thank you for this info since I’m new to RV-ing.
I maintain two tubs of Damp Rid in my small travel trailer at all times.
New to this site and somewhat new to RV’ing. used to tent camp a lot and then bought a pop up. Am now have a hybrid, joyaco 16xrb. was wondering if anyone can tell me if there is an easy way to reduce the condensation that appears in the sleeping are over night. not a whole lot but enough to drip every once and a while. off course it drips on my wife. thanks
Hi Wayne. Thanks for visiting the RV Repair site and the opportunity
to assist with your condensation problem. This is a
common occurrence in units that are sealed up and running
a roof AC and even sometimes with a furnace. The easiest
way to reduce the moisture is open a vent slightly and let
the moist air escape out the vent. You might also try a
product called Damp-rid. I used it in a closet that was
getting moisture and mold and it worked well.
I found that a small fan keeping the air moving in the fold down as well as a roof vent open seemed to eliminate moisture buildup in my rig.
I unfortunately do no own a RV but I have a pop up and just opened it up to completely ensure that it was winterized as the temperature in SE NC where I live is finally getting well below freezing at night. When I opened it up I noticed that the canopy tope as well as the inside of the door that is attached to the top has started to mildew. Is there a way in which to prevent this is a popup camper? Damp-rid – does that work? Or do I need to keep it raised up and put a dehumidifier inside? Thanks for any help
Hi Glenn. Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club site. The first step in reducing the potential for mold and mildew is to make sure all materials are completely dry before storing them! Then I would suggest Damp Rid inside the unit.
We camped with pop-up campers for years and never had a mildew problem, BUT we were diligent about not folding up the camper wet. If we had to move after a rain (or snow) we always got it up as soon as possible, and totally dry before putting it away for long term storage.
This is a topic I have never hear of in over 40 years of RVing. It reminds me of the old saying “An ounce of prevention, is worth a pound of cure.” Think I’ll at least get some desiccant dishes, like people use in boats!
Awesome post on removing condensation!
We have a 31′ C-Class and live in S. Florida where the humidity is always high. During our storage periods we keep 2 dehumidifiers running all the time (one in the rear and one forward) and keep the AC on 90 degrees. This increases our electric bill about $75-85 monthly but gives us peace of mind that we are mildew and mold free. And it always smells fresh inside.
When many motorhomes and travel trailers are equipped with 30 amp systems, why do Coleman AC units need nearly all 30amps to start the AC units? Until recently they added the Power Saver Series, but even when I had my brand new 17 foot Viking within the first 6 months the AC unit was using that much power to the point it was replaced under warranty. It wouldn’t start with a 3750 watt 30 amp Westinghouse generator.
Roof well maintained. However had water get under skylight and cause delamination of fiberglass roof about 3 foot area. No damage inside of rv. Roof is very thick and I believe the moisture stayed between the layment and the fiberglass roof. Leak was repaired as soon as I saw the separation of fiberglass. Question is this something that I need to be concerned of or will just stopping the leak end any concerns.
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