We received a question from an RV Repair Club member asking why their RV battery wasn’t holding any juice after a full charging cycle. While the problem of an RV battery not charging typically stems back to one common issue, there are a handful of other possibilities. So in this lesson, we do a little troubleshooting demonstration to explain what’s happening when an RV battery isn’t maintaining its charge and teach you how to troubleshoot to find a solution.
To help you get your RV battery back up to full capacity, Dave Solberg teaches you how to troubleshoot a faulty battery by first diagnosing your specific problem and then making the correct fix. As Dave mentions, there could be a few different causes if you discover a battery not charging properly on your RV. Most often, though, battery capacity depends on the type of charging cycle you conduct prior to operation.
With this idea in mind, Dave talks about the difference between a static fill (which can lead to sulfation, deteriorated terminals, etc.) and a multi-stage charge. He also gives you tips for testing battery capacity and describes what you should do with one/both of your battery’s solenoid(s) when a 25-amp draw reveals the battery has zero charge. Heed Dave’s advice, and you will show your RV batteries the TLC they deserve!
I have a 1996 Monaco similar to the one in the video. I recently replaced replaced all batteries but my alternator doesn’t seem to be charging my engine battery. I have had the alternator looked at and it worked fine when the repair shop pulled it out and tested it at their facility, but as soon as they hook it back up to the Monaco it won’t charge the battery. Have you ever run into this before?
I have a 1990 jayco mini i just replaced the battery. This is my first used rv i am clueless as to why it wont start.
Thank you for your patience. In response to your question-
Motorhomes should start just like any other vehicle. There are a few things to check. With the key in the ignition, turn it to ACC. This should turn on the accessories, dash lights, radio etc. If nothing turns on then there is a voltage problem from the battery. It could be a bad or loose connection or a blown fuse. If the ACC does work and then trying to start the engine it doesn’t do anything, it again could be a loose connection or a problem with the starter. If it does try to crank over but doesn’t fully start the problem could be with the spark plugs, coil, fuel system etc. You would want to start by checking to voltage at the battery and the connections and then the fuses to the chassis.
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RV Repair Club Technical Expert
My battery on my aliner is not charging after I drive with it all connected to my destination. The battery itself was tested and is chargeable. How can I troubleshoot this?
I had to replace my Class C engine battery. I was told to disconnect the positive terminal to preserve its life when in storage. My 2 6v house batteries are still connected in series. should I disconnect the positive on those also? And is it the positive that should be disconnected or the negative? thx
I generally do not disconnect the engine battery as you will erase all the computer codes and have to go through a restart process in the spring. It’s better to get a Battery Minder to condition the battery if you have access to 120-volt power or can install a solar panel. If you don’t have access to power or solar, I prefer to disconnect the negative cable and yes, you want to do the same for the house batteries. There will be a slight draw on the batteries from the radio presets and engine CPU for the engine battery, and a draw from the LP leak detector so it’s good to isolate those.
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