Common RV Refrigerators and Refrigerator Power Sources
Dave SolbergMany refrigerators on RVs run off one or multiple of three main sources of power, depending on type of vehicle (trailer, fifth wheel, motor home) and power capabilities as dictated by vehicle size. These common power sources for refrigerators on RVs include electricity via generator, on-board battery and LP gas. However, since the 1980s most manufacturers have started to only offer two of the three main power sources – LP gas and 120-volt electricity – as options to power refrigerator units on RVs.
In this quick video lesson, RV expert Dave Solberg gives you a rundown on RV refrigerators, explaining what’s probably on your unit and teaching you everything you need to operate, maintain and troubleshoot the fridge mounted on any modern vehicle. He pops open the exterior hatch on his demo vehicle’s fridge, which is a 4-door, 12-cubic-foot Norcold to demonstrate what you can expect out of your cooling unit. With Dave’s help, you’ll learn why it’s so important to get to know your fridge’s capabilities, power requirements, and components.
Getting to Know Common RV Refrigerators
In the past few decades, manufacturers of the most commonly equipped RV refrigerators, Norcold and Dometic, have gone away from using 12-volt battery power to fuel refrigerators and are now mostly offering LP gas and 120-volt systems. This is primarily because the RV refrigerators operating off of 12-volt would tend to drain the battery down after six to eight hours of use. And that’s for chilling food that is already cold, let alone food that’s at room temperature. That just wasn’t sufficient!
For larger units, it is still possible to use an on-board 8- or 12-volt battery bank to fuel RV refrigerators with the assistance of an inverter to give you 120 volts of power. This means that the refrigerator will run as if it were using electricity even though it is only using 12-volt batteries. Because of their marginal size, smaller RV refrigerators with the freezer incorporated inside the single door will easily run off of the 12-volt battery.
4-door RV refrigerators are a nice option to have on your vehicle particularly since only a limited amount of coolness is allowed to escape when opened. This is because you can select which door to open, and thus there is no need to open up the entire unit just to get a drink. Keep the cool inside as much as possible, and you save your wallet a lot of extra legwork!
Major Takeaways About Your Fridge
By the end of this quick lesson, Dave will help you to understand why it’s so critical to know the size and model of your RV refrigerator, especially when it comes to operating and troubleshooting. As with any other appliance, when your fridge goes kaput while you’re out in the middle of nowhere, there probably won’t be a certified technician nearby.
It’s on you to know what’s going on inside and outside your fridge, so it pays to be aware! Plus, this information is important for knowing which power source works best with your unit, so you’re well prepared before you even hit the road!
44 Responses to “Common RV Refrigerators and Refrigerator Power Sources”
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I have a trave trailer with a freezer on top and refrigerator on bottom . I started to have problems where when are asleep the refrigerator is goes off and in the morning I have to throw out all my frozen foods. The refrigerator worked get until I had this guy fix my roof and covered this piece up there staying it was a big hole could that been the vent. The trailer is A 1981 alfo
Can I.bypass my LP gas detector ? All I’m gonna be using it for is stovetop range
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Lindsay
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This is a nightmare. Recently moved into an RV and had trouble getting the appliances the refrigeration heating and air to work Even though plugged Into a mirror. The battery is being drained completely and I have to keep recharging it every few days in order for The refrigerator to operate. My refrigerator has an option auto which will defer to whatever is available I have gas available and I also have electric available but if the battery dies this prevents the refrigerator from working why is it the battery has to have anything to do with the gas or the electric? I am really frustrated at this by now I thought I would’ve had all of this down pat. I am not sure if I need a inverter or converter so that the battery can stop being drained by the camper and everything can defer over to the electric or the gas. Please help
Hello Lisa,
We would love to answer this expert question for you but I would need the year, make, and model of your RV. Once we receive the information, we can pass it along to the experts.
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Danesha
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Should the class a fridge in motor home run off electric only when plugged into electric or would it continue to run through inverter box to battery. 93 pace arrow model.
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In boonies, fridge won’t work
My fridge cools fine on AC but not on gas. Ive got flame but no cool.
We just bought a RV. We have a whirlpool refrigerator that does not have any control buttons other than the lighted display window for the icemaker, temp, etc. It appears to be a regular refrigerator and not a special RV version. The refrigerator turns on when we have the generator going or the house power is turned on when the engine is on. How do we switch it to propane when we are parked? We have looked all over the RV manual and there is no help. We also have looked in the guide for the fridge but it is a guide for use as a home fridge. There is no info for how to use it in an RV. Please help!
Dear Leigh,
Thank you for your patience. In response to your question-
Yes that is a residential fridge. Those only work off of 120v power. There is no propane to operate those types of fridges. When you are plugged into an outlet at the campground, the fridge will work off of the electricity supplied from the shore power. Most RV’s that have a residential fridge will have an inverter somewhere. The inverter lets the fridge run off of battery power for a short while if power is lost or during travel. If you want the fridge to last for a long time off of the batteries, you would need a very large battery bank as the inverter pulls a lot of amps to run the fridge. One 100 amp battery might be able to get you about 6-8 hours of fridge run time. It really depends on the amp draw of the fridge, the temperature outside and how well insulated the RV is. It can very but it is usually around 6-8 hours for every 100 ah battery you have in the system. And this is only the fridge, not counting the other things you might be using. These types of fridges are not very good for boondocking unless you plan on using the generator the whole time or you want to carry a lot of batteries for a long weekend. These fridges are used because of the size and quick cooling as opposed to standard RV fridges. Many people still prefer the old style since they use very little energy and can last a long time off of propane, but they do take longer to get cool. I hope this helps!
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Dan
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My Power button on top of refrigerator is lighting up and lighting up Auto, but it is not cooling the freezer or the refrigerator
i am new to caravans. i have a Dometic 3 way fridge model RFD218. i don’t know whether the fridge selects the power sources and can see from fridge which source is being used. the operating manual provides nothing and frankly the Dometic website material aint any help that i can see. so any advice or help would be greatly appreciated
NB Ticket#17397 Why does my refrigerater not work on electricty?
Dear Suzanne,
Thank you for you patience. In regards to your question-
To provide more specific troubleshooting information on your refrigerator issue, we need the make, model, and year of the refrigerator. For some generic troubleshooting, does the unit work on LP mode? If so, then it can be isolated to the 120-volt operation and not the cooling unit or inside module. If it works on the LP mode, then verify there is 120-volt power coming from the distribution center to the module board on the back of the refrigerator to the heating element. There is a 120-volt fuse in the module board that you should check as well as the circuit breaker in the distribution center. If there is power to the board, the heating element, and it works on LP, it is most likely you have a defective heating element. Check out the videos on the site covering this.
I hope this helps!
Sincerely,
Dave
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My breakers just c clik and no power
My freezer is working decently bit not the refrigerator? I’m not using LP but AC. It is getting cool but not even enough to cool a soda. Any ideas!?
Hello Kevin,
It could be a number of issues, first run the refrigerator on LP to see if you get the same results? If it runs fine, then you have a weak heating element that is not getting the solution hot enough to make the journey through the cooling unit. If it’s the same on both, try adjusting your thermistor a little higher. This is the probe inside the refrigerator clipped to the fins. The higher it is placed the more it detects warm air and tells the cooling unit to start. If that does not work, then you probably have a blocked cooling unit that needs to be examined by a certified Norcold or Dometic technician. Try placing a 5lb bag of ice in the freezer to see if that helps at all?
Thanks,
David RVRC Video Membership
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We have a Norcold N641R unit at our off grid hunting camp. It stays on an outside porch and only runs on propane. Can anyone tell me what size solar panel I would need to keep the battery charged for the igniter during extended periods when no generators are running?
Thanks……..Ed
Hello Ed,
You should be able to get by with just one 100 watt panel, however it also depends on the efficiency of your battery? If it’s sulfated, it will not store much power. Your refrigerator will draw approximately 5 watts per hour which is not much. I would suggest going to Go Power’s page that has a calculator here: http://gpelectric.com/tools/GoPowerCalculator.htm?state=RvDiv
Another issue is how much “prime” sunlight will you be able to get? Usually it’s only about 3 hours when the sun is at the high noon point.
Thanks,
David RVRC Video Membership
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Wanted to know if I have to have my battery connected when I’m trying to get my refirdgeator cold the day before we leave to go camping. I’m new at csmping
Hello Bart,
You should have your batteries connected and the unit plugged into
120-volt power to charge the batteries and cool the refrigerator.
Make sure the unit is level in the driveway as an unlevel refrigerator
will have an unlevel cooling unit and this could bet blocked and ruin the
cooling unit in a couple of days. Also, make sure you are plugged
into a dedicated power source. If you are connected to a typical
residential outlet in the garage, it’s typically a 10 amp outlet and can
be “ganged” to other outlets and not getting the dedicated 10 amps?
You should have a licensed electrician install at least a 20 amp dedicated
outlet as you refrigerator will draw about 6 amps and the battery charger
could draw up to 9 amps!
Thanks,
David RVRC Video Membership
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We have a 32 ft. Allegro RV. We are on vacation and our full-size refrigerator will not work unless we use an electric cord on the side and plug into a recepticle inside the RV. Any ideas?
Hi Laura. To provide more specific troubleshooting information we need the make and model of your refrigerator. Typically you would have a two-way refrigerator that operates on 120-volt power or LP? When the rig is plugged into a campground source or other outside electrical source using the power cord or “shoreline” cord, power goes to the distribution center and to a circuit breaker similar to your home. The refrigerator has a dedicated circuit breaker which feeds power by a line to a receptacle usually located in the back accessible through the outside vent cover. During 120-volt operation, the refrigerator uses a heating element to heat a solution that travels through a series of tubes known as the absorption method of cooling. Check out the free videos on the site overviewing the operation. When using LP or Gas, the spark ignitor starts a small flame that heats the solution similar to the heating element. Both operations require at least 10.5 volt DC from your house batteries as this powers the monitor panel. When you stat that you use an electric cord on the side and plug into a receptacle, where are you plugging the cord into originally? Is it at a campground source, or some other outside source? And what receptacle are you plugging into inside the rig? Or, are you plugging an electrical cord into the refrigerator cord unplugged from the outlet and running it inside to another outlet? If so, your refrigerator plug does not have power which could just be the circuit breaker or a GFCI button tripped somewhere down the line?
Thanks
Dave-RVRC
We are new to running a diesel RV (2014 Thor Tuscany XTE) and having a side by side residential size refrigerator. On all of our other RVs they ran on shore power (electric plug in) or on propane. This model runs on shore power (electric plug in) and inverters we think. Not sure how to turn the refrigerator off when taking the RV in for service (as our mechanic prefers it off). Any ideas?
Hi, Richard. The residential style refrigerator runs just like the one in a home, on 120-volt electricity only which is supplied by the distribution panel through the shoreline power, or the inverter using the house batteries to “invert” to 120-volt power. You can either unplug the unit from the wall outlet, or shut off the circuit breaker at the distribution center and verify by opening the door.
I want to power my RV fridge while traveling…is there an inverter that could be recommended to just run the 120 watts needed for the fridge? Mine is a 1987 Dometic which runs on both propane and AC. Rarely use propane.
Hi, Ronnie. I would recommend contacting Xantrex to find the proper inverter for your application. One consideration you need to look at is what battery power and condition you have currently. Another thing to consider, if you leave the door shut, the refrigerator will maintain under 40 degrees for over 6 hours while traveling! Check out the video in the appliance section. Put a 5 lb bag of ice in the freezer to assist with the initial temp and add a small 9 volt fan to circulate the air and it will save you a ton of money. Otherwise, visit Xantrex here: http://www.xantrex.com/industry-solutions/recreational-vehicles/power-inverters.aspx
I have a Norcold 4 door and I find myself having to defrost it about once every two weeks. Any I doing something wrong or might there something be wrong with the unit itself?
Hi, Dennis. Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club site and the opportunity to assist with your Norcold defrosting issue. The first thing is get a thermometer and check the temperature of the unit. It should be running somewhere around 36-37 degrees. If it’s colder than that, the moist warm air introduced in RVs will cause excess condensation and freezing. Next, check your door seals by placing a dollar between the door and the gasket. Pull it lightly and if it doesn’t have a little resistance coming out, your door is not sealing properly and again, warm/moist air is entering. Limit the number of canned goods as this will also create excess condensation. Do not block shelves with too much food, the refrigerator needs air circulation. Place a small 12-volt fan inside to help circulate air as well. If it’s in the freezer section, next time you defrost, place one of those plastic temporary cutting sheets on the bottom and back side. When frost builds up, simply pop those out and the ice comes off easily.
I have a Dometic fridge but it does not have any adjustment area showing. It shows in the manual the adjustment area is hidden. My fridge is now freezing items. Do I need to schedule a repair visit?
Hi Chris. Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club site and the opportunity to assist with your Dometic refrigerator issue. To provide more specific troubleshooting information I will need to know the model number and year. Most of the Dometic refrigerators have a thermister that is attached to the fins inside the unit to sense the temperature and sends that info to the module board. I’m not familiar with the “adjustment area” you referred to however if I can get the model and year, we should be able to help get your refrigerator working properly.
My refrigerator is in my slide out and I have two vents one at the bottom and one at the top. The one at the top is covered by a .piece of thin wood( I think) it covers all but about two inches at the top. Should this be there? My camper has the winter package. I’m using alot of electricity and we thinks it is the refrigerator.
Hi, Janet. Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club site and the opportunity to assist with your refrigerator issue. The top vent is designed to allow the heat from the cooling unit to rise up and escape and should not be blocked! This will trap the warm air in the back cavity of your refrigerator compartment and make the refrigerator work harder which will eat up more electricity. The lower vent is designed to help draw air into the cavity and assist with getting the warm air to the top. It’s also an access point for service work on the burner assembly and module board.
Thanks
My 2 way refridgerator will operate on propane great but will not switch to 120 volt. Can you tell me what to check?
Hi Ken. Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club site and the opportunity to assist with your refrigerator issue. The first thing I would check is the circuit breaker in the distribution center. Next make sure the refrigerator is plugged into the outlet by opening the outside vent cover to access the back of the refrigerator. Also check this outlet to make sure it’s working. It could be connected to the GFCI circuit which includes the bathroom, kitchen, and outside outlets but only one has the test/reset button. If this has tripped, none of the outlets work. Then open the power module cover and check the 120-volt fuse in the module. You should be able to find the location in your owner’s manual. Depending on the model and year of your refrigerator it should be a glass in-line fuse. If you still don’t have power, it’s either a faulty module or in the eyebrow board.
I am also new RVing and mine does not seem to work on propane and is very hard to keep cool in desert. any suggestions on getting the propane to work with my fridge?
Thanks Mike
Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club site and the opportunity to assist with your refrigerator issue. First, verify you have propane available to other appliances such as the stove top or water heater. If either of these work, you can eliminate the tank and regulator. Next, check to make sure the in-line valve is open to the refrigerator. This is usually located in the back compartment accessible through the outside vent panel. There should be a copper LP line coming into the compartment and connecting to the burner assembly. In line is a valve that needs to have the handle in-line or parallel with the line. Now check your house battery condition. Even though you will be running on LP, the system needs 10.5 volts or more to open the gas valve and provide spark. If all this is good, pull the cover off the power module (black plastic box in the vent area) and inspect the 12-volt fuse.
Since you are new to RVing, here is a quick tutorial on how the system works. When the power mode switch is on the “Auto” selection, the refrigerator with run on 120-volt power when it’s available. It will automatically switch to LP if the power goes out, so if you have it on auto, it will not run on LP. Putting the switch to “Gas” makes it run on LP. Not knowing your make, model, year, or brand of refrigerator limits further troubleshooting, however newer modes with the LED readout on the top will provide a code for troubleshooting. The system will try to start/light several times and then flash a code that helps diagnose the problem. When the switch is moved to “Gas” you should hear a click, then several attempts to light with sparking sounds. If it can’t light, it will give you a code.
All this and more is covered in detail on the website with videos specifically tailored to the LP system. Check out the items listed above and I think they may help. Also, check out the video on making your refrigerator run more efficient as it should be able to handle the hot weather on 120-volt as well!
The short answer is … when the outside temp exceeds 90F, an absorption fridge (2-way, 3-way) may not perform very well, irrespective of the power source. Under those conditions, you may need to buy a bag of ice.
As a new RV’er, one thing I don’t get is what to do with the refrigerator when you are moving. Mine is a 2-way as was pointed out as more common now. We are not supposed to have the propane on when moving so that leaves just AC power. So, does that mean run the generator when moving to keep the refrigerator cold?
Hi Raymond. Thanks for visiting the RV Repair Club site and the opportunity to assist with your refrigerator/propane question. The reason refrigerator manufacturers and the propane industry recommends cutting off the propane line at the tank or cylinder is for safety issues. The propane lines in your RV are typically small copper lines running through cabinetry and often times close to the sidewall. If you happen to “clip” a road sign, someone side swipes you, or even a fitting loosens up, propane gas will leak into the RV and a pilot light or spark ignitor will become a disaster. Plus you always need to shut off all pilot lights and propane valves before entering a fueling station.
Both Norcold and Dometic have engineered an outstanding insulated compartment that will maintain temperatures for over 6 hours. We conducted a test and brought a unit down to 34 degrees inside the refrigerator compartment and placed a wireless probe inside. 6 hours later it was still at 39 degrees and the ambient temperature inside the coach was up to 87 degrees! Here’s a couple of tips…put a 5-7 lb bag of ice in the freezer section. This is the first stage of cooling in an absorption refrigerator and will help the cooling process in the main compartment. Place a small 9 volt fan in the main compartment to circulate the air. Hot air will rise and this will help keep a consistent temperature throughout. Make sure all seals are tight and the door is tight, lock it if possible.
You can run the generator to provide 120-volt power, but it’s not necessary if you do the steps listed.
TERRIBLE RESPONSE!!! The answer is NOT to put a bag of ice in the freezer (or put a fan in the fridge) while traveling. If you don’t want to use LP while traveling (I wouldn’t) and you have a 2-way, you run on 120 volt from the inverter and the vehicle alternator keeps the batteries charged. You don’t buy a $1500 fridge for the privilege of routinely buying ice. If this is reflective of the quality of info on this site, I’m out.
And if you don’t have an inverter, you shouldn’t have a 2-way fridge.